Bad oil??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19516
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 12:26pm
Topic: Bad oil??
Posted By: aquaman766
Subject: Bad oil??
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 1:30am
| This is my first year owning a ski boat. I have learned a lot form this site. Thanks to you all. I just changed my oil and i used Castrol 10w-40. Now i'm reading that most of you use 20w-50 or straight 40. My question is---will the 10w-40 hurt my engine or am i OK for another 50 hours? |
Replies:
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 2:13am
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People have done a lot worse. You will be fine for the rest of the season which cant be too long up there! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 2:20am
Change it before you put her to bed for the winter. Isn't the RSM every 25hrs? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
aquaman766 wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 8:51am
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Keeping in mind that the lower # is the actual base weight of the oil, 10 weight in my opinion is on the light side for our engines. Also check to see if the Castrol has a high level of ZDDP. That's even more important for the flat tappet engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 1:53pm
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Which brand do you guys like, I am hearing many? I am thinking doing this too, where can I find the vacum to suck the oil out the bottom? ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 4:14pm
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I think the consensus leans towards Valvoline VR-1 20W 50. Less than $5 a quart and available at most auto parts stores. That is what I am using in the Skier.
I have no experience with http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PL-6000 - this pump but here is one. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 4:33pm
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20w50... alright, sounds good. I need to find a pump, and apperciate keeganino the help, thanks my friend. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 4:45pm
I have come to the consensus that it takes a village to know everything about these boats. Glad I could help! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 5:03pm
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I think there are better alternatives out there to VR1.
www.aslcamguard.com You guys are paying more for VR-1 than we pay for aviation oil with an anti-wear additive. The anti wear is a requirement of some aviaion engines to prevent camshaft galling: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-bulletins/pdfs/SB471B.PDF http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqaircraftengineoil.htm Tim ------------- |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-21-2010 at 5:07pm
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PS-
I have looked but have not found out the differences between ZDDP, Camguard, and the LW-16702 Additive. Lots of companies selling ZDDP additives now. ------------- |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 12:56am
I just changed the oil/filter in my '96 and used the VR1. Got it at the local auto parts store down the street and put a new Motorcraft FL-1A filter in (also found at local parts store). Stay away from Fram filters, they are garbage. ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 3:32am
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I don't think enough people realize that VR1 does not have the same ZDDP levels that it used to. The same goes for rotella.
There are better choices out there now. I hear Royal Purple synth and Amsoil has high ZDDP levels, but castrol products have higher ZDDP than most other conventional oil brands, especially in oils other than 5w-30 or 10w-30. The new motorcraft diesel oil has high ZDDP levels. I know redline full synth has high ZDDP levels. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 2:04pm
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I seriously dont know or understand why people all sold on this synthetic oils against just regular conventional oil. Made the same way, has same texture and serves same puporse just has added addtives to it. High performance I understand, but until got big modifications then regular oil works just fine.
Love Castrol, Mobile, Valvoline, Quaker State..... Pennzoil suks!! Turns gray in 1000 miles or 10 hrs in a boat, loses its base to darn quick... ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 3:56pm
Didn't we just have this same discussion like a month ago? I can't take it anymore. "Gonna find a bridge and take a jump"- Frank Zappa 
I guess if they keep changing the formulas we need to keep up with it. The guy at the parts store was trying to sell me on that Royal purple but I want to say it was like $15 a quart!!!! Interesting that something as basic as oil can be so complicated. I thought everyone was saying to stay away from synthetics all together. Tim thanks for the links. Very informative! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:04pm
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Ok...
Lets take this to some data... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19533&title=zddpzinc - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19533&title=zddpzinc ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:05pm
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Here are the http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf - VR-1 Specs ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:07pm
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And what about the http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9 - not street legal VR-1 oils? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:27pm
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Stay away from that purple ***************... No Weyno for Kaka... I heard best synthetic if you choose to go that route is Mobile 1... ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:30pm
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Anything Valvoline is good though. That VR-1 I am sure is pretty good.... ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Fly100
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 8:15pm
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Zinc/Phosphorus
0.14/0.13 0.14/0.13 Whats that work out in PPM ?? |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-22-2010 at 11:12pm
You realize that Mobil 1 isn't the same as it used to be either, right? Why don't you like royal purple? have you tried it? I have and I liked it. I only bought it because it was like 5 dollars a quart on sale once. Otherwise it is too $$ for oil IMHO, not that it isn't good, but too $$$. Now If I had to buy it for my new car, it would get VERY pricey. 9 quarts at 12-15 dollars. Even at 12 a qt, it would be 108 dollars for an oil change. oh the good ol days of 5-6 qt oil capacity on V8's.... ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-23-2010 at 12:00am
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Keegan - The racing-only oil doesn't have detergents so it will load up with deposits very quickly. Stay away from it.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: September-23-2010 at 12:27am
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I'm not positive, but the racing oils you would use with the SB Ford (20w50) motors seem to be labeled that way because of the regulations, Mobil 1 has something to that effect on their website. There are racing oils with additive packages that need to be changed very often, so do a little looking before you just buy something off the shelf.
As of the last time we had this discussion (not that long ago) Mobil 1 20w50 had 1200ppm. I am still using it because it is still cheaper than VR1 when I get it in the 5qt bottle at Wallyworld with my FL-1A filter. I think I've put about 6 or 700 hrs between 2 boats since I started using it with no issues. |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-23-2010 at 2:19am
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TX, 1200ppm seems to be pretty high. I would have no issues using that oil as well. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: September-23-2010 at 2:53pm
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Tom,
My good neighbor put that "royal purple" in his F150 truck and had problems with it. I also read a articles in "Hot Rods" magazine where they down played it too. There is plenty of good synthetic oils out there than royal purple. My neighbor was told to switch to another synthetic oil, he went with Mobile 1. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-23-2010 at 11:07pm
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Good article in the last Popular Mechanics.In the early 50's oil was at 800 ppm zinc content.With the advent of hi performance engines in the late 50's they had to go to 1200 ppm. With the last change they went back to 800 ppm. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 1:08am
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^^ Hahaha, Man! I read that article too. Very interesting article. Mike Allen is always on point with all of his stuff. Actually, my favorite piece, unrelated, in there was how to make your iPhone into a scan tool for pretty short money.
The article was a little frustrating though, I still didn't get the sense of an absolute right answer. Racing oils have their problems because of short drain intervals, which maybe 50 hours is short? Diesel oils (I assume he's referring to Rotella) have issues because of different additive packages. I'm also curious as to whether my 240hp engine is really in a high enough state of tune for it to be of a concern. After all, the same block, pitons, lifters etc. see as high as 310 in stock form, way more in other forms. I'm assuming that would mean a lot more valve spring compression and the like. He did mention Castrol GT Racing as a good all around compromise. That's one I'd take a look at I guess. |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 1:28am
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It's nice to hear that Popular Mechanics has picked up on this issue, and it is not limited to us crazy boat people. LOL
I have not read it yet, but that is interesting about the regular output motors ZDDP needs vs the HIPo ones. Last I saw the 10w 40 and 15w40 regular castrol GTX had ZDDP levels that were meeting our needs too. I've been running GTX in mine recently. Lee, I ran the purple stuff in the 04 4runner 4.7 V8. It of course has no pushrods or a single centrally located cam with only 16 valves though. All roller stuff in that, and DOHC so it's definitely nothing like the motors in our boats. It is very similar to the motor that powered the Toyota Epic boats though;) ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 2:07am
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Well one thing I understood was that VR1 is called "Racing" to get the extra zinc past the EPA regs and that the detergent additive package is the same as regular oil. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 2:11am
I get that sense too. Are most people on here running the VR1 20-50 now? I thought it was interesting in that article how he assembles new, high performance, engines milder valve springs (or not all of them in the case of multiple spring setups) until it's broken in, then he puts in the real valve springs etc. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 2:25am
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I think that cam manufacturers tell you to do that also.I have been running it,Autozone had it on sale awhile back,half price I think.They said they were closing it out,but I still see they have it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 11:58am
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I've generally used Valvoline products since the mid 1980's. I did run Castrol in a few motorcycles. I still like the VR1 Racing product, though I realize the zinc has been reduced so I'm reading with an open mind, may move to something else. I certainly like 20W50 for boats, 10 weight is just too thin for this use in my opinion.
But ... I've never had an engine fail from "bad oil". Lots of boats, tractors, cars, and trucks have run a variety of oil, nothing has ever prematurely worn or failed that I know of because of oil brand. It makes sense to run the higher zinc oils in boats that rev high, accelerate hard. But, we all know that lots of boat owners put whatever 10W30 is cheapest in their engines. If they change it on schedule, it's likely their boat will last just as long as mine! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 1:21pm
A co-worker and I had this discussion the other day. He's an avid gearhead. He was saying the one oil related failure he had was one time a car he owned was leaking oil faster than he realized and he just plain ran the engine out of oil. |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-24-2010 at 11:14pm
Brian, that's not really an oil related failure, but rather a gasket failure.  ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: mko
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 12:28am
| I have never seen anyone mention Amsoil on here, they have a high zinc oil made for the older ford motors, it comes in 10/40 and 20/50, plus it's synthetic. The local dealer puts straight 40 wt Pennzsoil , I would not put that in my lawn mower. I guess they like rebuilding customers motors. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 2:05am
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I've said in a few threads that I'm a Valvoline user for the most part - but I do use Amsoil in my '97 diesel Suburban. I'm in the middle of a long term oil test with an Amsoil dealer from PA. I run Amsoil Synthetic Diesel & Marine 15W40. My used oil analysis sheets show around 1350 ppm zinc.
I'm sure it would make incredibly good boat oil, I've thought about using it or another Amsoil product. I'll have to be convinced that the VR1 Racing oil is not up to task before I make the switch, it's just so easy to pick it up at Autozone when I need it. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 10:54pm
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I've said it couple times that amsoil has enough ZDDP, but there are other synthetics that do have enough too.
If you can get a hook up with amsoil, it's well worth it. Since they are based in WI, I have a couple places I can get it from for less than it is typically sold. It works well in most of my toys, I don't see why the boat would be any different with the levels it has. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |