water around mufflers
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19564
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 7:35pm
Topic: water around mufflers
Posted By: WOFTAM
Subject: water around mufflers
Date Posted: September-25-2010 at 10:52am
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I have an 81 SN. Water accumulates in between the stringers where the glass paks are. I have dried this out, thinking the nwater was from the folks getting in and out, but it comes back.
I have noticed that there are no weep holes for this water to exit into the main bilge where it can be pumped out. My questions are: 1) Does the presence of this water point to a hole in one of the glass paks or hose? 2) The previous owner repaired the stringers. Is there supposed to be a weep hole for the water to exit? 3) My idea was to drill 1" holes in the stringers, then fill the hole with West System with 406 filler, then drill 1/2" weep holes into the hole that is filled with the thickened epoxy. Any thoughts? Thanks Y'all |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2010 at 9:56pm
Whatever your name is, 
EDIT: Mike, (found your name is a previous post) get you name up in your profile - I can't remember them all!! 
1) find the leak! yes it may be a hole the muffler. get it on the trailer and fill the cavity up with water and see if it comes out the exhaust. 2) PO Repaired????? What did he do? Less than a stringer replacement, he did whatever it took to unload the boat! Sorry!! Most likely a shade tree job at best. No weep hole - there's not supposed to be water in there. 3) Don't go drilling anything that's not supposed to be there to begin with. Find the problem and post some pictures. If a complete stringer job is done, and it's a no foam rebuild, that's the time to look at weep holes. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
WOFTAM wrote:Posted By: adamt
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 2:41am
I wouldn't take any chances, because there is the possibility of the glasspaks absorbing some of the exhaust sound, I would remove them completely and replace with straight copper pipes asap!  (Just wanted to beat Jbear to the punch)------------- -Adam 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 12:27pm
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The original stringers did in fact have drains to allow the exhaust cavities to drain into the bilge. Sounds like yours were rebuilt incorrectly. When the drains in my Tique were plugged with debris, those pockets would accumulate water pretty quickly- and I didnt have any leaks. Do inspect your hoses and mufflers, but I suspect what youre seeing is normal for not having any drains. ------------- |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: September-27-2010 at 5:02pm
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My 87 has weep holes through the stringer at the rear engine mounts and at the transom. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: September-28-2010 at 12:10am
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Well, all of the winterizing talk has gotten me thinking it is time to succumb to the coming season. I dropped off the seats at the upholstery shop today. Now, for that "repair". Although I am still trying to upload pics for the people at home, I have a few hypotheses:
1) Someone wrapped the glasspaks in gray astroturf. One 6" wide strip in the front, one in the rear. The bottoms of the turf are covered in bilge gunk. Those are definitely restricting the flow. I think the water in the bilge is sloshing around the drain points at the stringer/transom location and into the area forward of the paks-where the rubber hose is. There are no weep holes under the aluminum grid where the engine rests. 2) The stringer repair that has been done...I would not call it "sistering". I would not even call it "step-sistering" Rather, the neighbor girls run about 8 inches on each side of both stringers. They are wrapped in fiberglass and through bolted. To the credit of the handyman, he did use biaxial cloth. I will tear into it this winter. Depending on the shape of the stringers, I may opt to scarf in place of a complete stringer job. Pics to follow once I figure out how to load them. Thanks for the replies so far. I am looking forward to more advice. |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: September-28-2010 at 12:49am
Here are the pics:
    ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: September-28-2010 at 1:01am
Here is a picture showing the weep holes on my 79SN. They are under the rear motor mounts. There are also notches at the transom on the bottom. Hope this helps. Monty
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-28-2010 at 1:29am
"Here is a picture showing the weep holes " The correct term is "limber holes" ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2010 at 9:49am
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Keep us posted as to what you find when you start digging into the project. I highly recommend a complete stringer job over a patch/sister/scarf.
The astro turf around the mufflers is the factory's method of vibration/abrasion control. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 11:37pm
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Thanks for the images Monty. I cannot determine if mine ever had the lumber holes. I found that one of the hoses between the manifold and the glasspak was split. This was most likely the source of the water. I removed the turf and as I suspected, the underside was covered in gunk and was preventing the water from passing under the pak. I have removed the turf and refilled the voids and it still does not fully drain so I think I will need to drill holes. Now, I am trying to figure out if I can drill them without pulling the engine.
I would look forward to any further input. ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: October-01-2010 at 12:11am
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When I first started removing the floor and stringers I noticed that a previous owner had replaced the section where the motor mounts. They didn't have the limber holes under the rear motor mount. I copied them of of the dimensions that Roger UK79 sent me.
I think it would be very difficult to try and drill holes on your existing stringers. You probably still have the drain holes at the back where the stringers meet the transom. So if you raise the bow up it should drain. The carpet around the mufflers will hold back the water some but I went back with it on mine. I couldn't come up with an alternative I liked. The patch job on your stringers may get you by for a while, But be sure and do an alignment on your boat. I am with the others that scarfing or piecing in stringers is wasting time and money. Once you start checking you will find how bad your old ones were. Mine were mush. Replacing stringers is very labor intensive but there is lots of help from people that have already done it. My suggestion is replace your exhaust hose, check your rwp impeller(overheating causes hoses to fail) check alignment. and use the boat. In your spare time read up on the stringer threads and then you will be ready. tick tick tick......... Monty |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: October-01-2010 at 12:51am
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Thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking of replacing all of the exhaust hose with
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15169&AMAZON - this Any product that is better suited to this application? Thanks again! ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: October-01-2010 at 1:17am
| I used the corrugated from the manifolds to the mufflers and smooth wall for the short pieces in back from the mufflers to the thru hull. Double clamp all fittings below waterline. Monty |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 12:31am
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I found a hole on the underside of one of the hoses in between the manifold and the glasspak. Looks like it got pretty hot at one point. That prompted me to check the impeller, which which was nearly new, but while I was at it, I thought it best to pull plugs and fill with antifreeze for winterization.
Sooo, I ended up with the port side exhaust hose off and a cracked portion if the exit tube on the glasspak. Epoxy should fix that. On pulling the plugs, I was doing very well until the last one-the one on the "J" tube. The brass would not budge, so I had to remove it and along with it, the brittle hose. I redrilled and retapped the threads and I am deciding on a plug or petcock. I have tried Jamestown Distributors for a source of hose. I have dealt with them for years and I like them but they want be to buy between 6 and 12 feet of hose at a time. Where else can I go (there is not a SN dealer in within 60 miles)to buy shorter lengths of hose? Can I get this hose at a NAPA? Attached is a picture of the weekend carnage:   ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 8:49am
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Mike,
There are other sources of marine exhaust hose like go2marine but I suggest getting the 6'. If one side had a hole in it, then the other side may be ready to blow too!!! Change both sides. When you do the repair on the fiberglass muffler, don't forget to get some fiberglass besides the epoxy on it. Epoxy is the adhesive and the glass is the structural. BTW, they aren't "glasspaks"!!! They are fiberglass but they aren't packed with glass for the sound reduction. Just some baffles and the water do the trick. The picture you just posted shows the stringer patch job the PO did from a different angle. Also in the 3rd and 4th pictures you posted originally in the thread, it shows another problem area. All I can say is do plan on a re stringer job for your boat! Have you checked the engine/shaft alignment? I hope the purchase price was adjusted for the stringer condition and a replacement in mind. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 9:27pm
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What else do you see? The tall are of the stringer in front of the tank? I had my eye on that.
As for checking alignment, how does one go about that? Rest assured, I am contemplating a stringer job. I am looking for threads on what is involved in pulling the engine and what I can place it on once it is out. Monty, by any chance do you still have a copy of the measurements that you were sent for your stringer job? Thanks guys! ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 9:36pm
I was looking at a spot where the glass is cracked and separating from the wood. Take a look at http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6037&KW=alignment&PID=58701&title=span-classhighlightalignment-span#58701 - this thread by Eric ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: October-05-2010 at 1:20am
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Mike, I think I got my exhaust hoses off of Ebay, I shopped around and 6'6" corrugated was 62.00 +shipping. can't remember the 2' piece of smooth wall. Prices vary so it pays to shop around. Here is a link to my ongoing stringer replacement http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12719&title=79-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - 79 Nautique rebuild? . There are many great stringer threads so search and read up. I will look for the stringer files. Send me a e-mail and will send them to you. Monty |