Block drain/valve kit...
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19646
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 8:26am
Topic: Block drain/valve kit...
Posted By: LKG_
Subject: Block drain/valve kit...
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 5:11am
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Has anyone compiled a complete list of parts to make a quick drain kit for the PCM 351 yet? I want to add a kit like this when I winterize this year. The manifolds are 3/4" NPT if I remember correctly, but what about the block and thermostat elbow?
Is there one place to get it all (Tractor Supply Co., Northern Tool, etc) that anyone can recommend? ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Replies:
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 10:30am
| I put one together a few years ago at the local hardware store, it ended up saving me only the shipping cost from SKIDIM. Just take your plugs with you to the hardware store after you drain everything. It was handy, but I don't use that anymore, there are too many things to drain now that it won't get. (V Drive, transmission cooler, strainer, heater) There is enough room in the Excel to keep a small marine heater on a thermostat, and I drain it by hand if it looks like we are going to get into a long cold period, just for peace of mind. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 10:39am
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Andy,
Didn't you see mine? Went into Agri-Supply and hunted for the fittings. all brass, reducers in the exhaust manifolds, 3/8 90* elbows, 90* 3/8 fittings in the block and a streight 3/8 in the U at the water pump All attached to 3/8 ball valves and rubber hose off the ball valve. I was thinking after draining I'd lift the hose up as high as possible and back fill with a turkey baster and anti-freeze then close the valve. Take your fittings to Gaston Hardware (46&48) Mike will match them up for ya. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 1:32pm
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What ever means of draining is used, being able to probe the drain hole with a piece of wire is of utmost importance.
You may also want to do some searching/reading here on site. There's quite allot of info on the subject - recent too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 1:59pm
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Pete,
I'll open 1 drain at a time and if the flow is down then I'll take the pipe fitting out and probe the hole with .040 safety wire. The samething you do with a pipe plug. "If it's not stopped up with rust, it will be." ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2010 at 4:00pm
Andy, If you need to remove the fitting or valve, what's the point of putting in quick drains? I suggest using the removeable valve stem stopcocks that I've mentioned in other threads. The last time I mention them was in http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19506&PN=4&title=pour-in-method--anti-freeze - this thread Here's the picture again. I've got them on all my boats.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Waterdog wrote:Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: October-11-2010 at 4:03pm
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Andy (Waterdog)...I have seen yours; that's what made me decide to do something similar when I winterize this year.
I like the idea of the removable handle stopcocks. It looks like I can get three of them with 3/8" fittings for the block and thermostat housing for $6.42 each from McMaster Carr. The manifolds are 3/4" NPT if I remember correctly. As far as I can tell, the only brass reducers they have that will mate up with their stopcocks are 3/4" to 1/4". There is no 3/4" to 3/8" brass reducer. So I could do a 1/4" stopcock, but that seems really small considering all the rust that comes out of those manifolds each year. What do you guys think? ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-11-2010 at 4:35pm
I sure can't remember all the stuff that Mcmaster has so I looked it up! Plenty of brass hex reducing bushings at McMaster! Enter their part # 4429k418 It's a 3/4" by 3/8" Double check the block drains. I don't feel they are 3/8". Keep in mind that pipe size goes roughly by the ID and not the OD. From the other thread I linked:
3/8" will be .675" ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: LKG_
Date Posted: October-12-2010 at 1:23am
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^ Thanks. I guess I failed in my search.
So it looks like 5X p/n 4921K3 removable handle stopcock + 2x p/n 4429k418 bushing/reducer. Anyone know what size fitting is on my vDrive unit? It's a 1993 Nautique Excel. ------------- Lake Gaston/Raleigh North Carolina |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-12-2010 at 12:25pm
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Pete,
My piont is at sometime the block will have to be probed with a wire to remove some scale. It's not everytime the valve is opened or even once a year or 5 years. The openings on my ball valves are bigger than the openings on the petcocks. I like the ones I have because they direct the flow of water into the bildge with a short peice of hose. When I've used petcocks I use a peice of sheet metal to direct the water so it doesn't get all over (the carpet, exhaust ect...) They both work. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-12-2010 at 1:21pm
Andy, I agree that both will work as well. Both can be probed with wire. I picked the removable stem petcocks way back since I didn't want true valves all over marking the engine look like some kind of a plumbers nightmare!  Careful with the choice of ball valves. Most are not "full port" style which means the actual port is one pipe size below the thread size on the valve. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: October-23-2010 at 7:50pm
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Where do you get the handle/stem drain cocks for the PCM 351? I know mine are getting on their last legs and would like to get these valves to drain. ------------- 84 SN, 92 SNOB, 2005 SANTE 2006 SN 206 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: October-24-2010 at 1:17am
Mc Master Car Inc. has these drains. Look at the above thread link for all of the information. There is anothe thread going about pouring in antifreeze where all the information that you are asking is being given. Click of THIS THREAD that is above. FYI, Donald |
Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: December-02-2010 at 2:02am
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Did the part numbers you stated fit? I have a 92 351 Ford PCM direct drive and my block drain plugs are 1/4" MNPT. so i bought:
5 Each 4921K2, Drain-handle Brass Stop Cock Removable Handle, Internal Seal, 1/4" Npt Male. Then for the manifolds: 2 Each 4429K423, Low-pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting 3/4" Male X 1/4" Fem Pipe Sz, Hex Reducing Bushing. I hate NPT I always get confused cause the 1/4" MNPT measures more like 3/8" diameter. The PO had changed one drain to a bushing with the square plug, then rounded it off....one of the manifold plugs was rounded too. You could tell he used a 1/2" drive ratchet. The spring loaded ball on the drive did not allow for complete seating and then the ratchet slipped and buggered up the square hole. Someone had used vise-grips on the threads once too. |