Gut Job
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19984
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 7:26pm
Topic: Gut Job
Posted By: YooperSully
Subject: Gut Job
Date Posted: November-14-2010 at 5:06pm
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Well It's deer season so I'm gutting her. Going for structural rehab first. Feel free to rip her apart. This boat was redone in 2004 by .....Hmmm I'll have to check. But it shows how quick crappy work won't last. 7 years and the floor is shot. I love the treated that they used to catch the shaft cover. They also used it to catch the the engine cover where they miss cut the ply. I want to get this thing back to oem with the skeletal but I'm unsure of what they did when it was restrung before. So in short all my templates are wrong I'm assuming. I took a few rough measurements on the stringers to see if you guys would be able to let me know if they dropped the stringers to accommodate the ply or if the stringers are right height for glass and they just added the ply to the top. Would someone with a 87' factory floor or equivalent get me the measurement from the built in step on the sides to the floor??
My first questions is can I do this on the trailer or should it be on stands. If I did it on the trailer I'd probably shim it a little better than how it sits now.              ------------- 87' 2001 |
Replies:
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: November-14-2010 at 5:09pm
more pics
             ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: November-15-2010 at 1:34am
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Well good luck! I can answer a few of the questions. To determine the height of the floor put a piece of 3/4 ply over the primaries in the back. The 3/4" ply with about 1/4" for glass on it should be about the height of the floor.
So in this pic of my rebuild the piece my rear seat sits on is 3/4" ply with two layers of mat on it and it is even with the floor, which in my case the floor is 2 layers of biaxal and a layer of mat over foam. 
To do the job you want to get it off the trailer. Support it in all four corners. Two supports in the back under the transom and two in the front. I made these to get the boat off the trailer. Pretty easy to build. 
If you want to see more images of my rebuild you can find them here but please take note I had an 82 not an 87 but the floor should be similar. http://www.flickr.com/photos/11202092@N03/sets/72157612169227615/with/3270822328/ - Flickr This is also a good read for you. He had an 87: http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks/ - Bill's Boat Works Have fun! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-15-2010 at 8:59am
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Roger,
From your pictures, it looks like the actual stringer job isn't that bad but they didn't follow through with a decent ply floor job. The ply wasn't CPES'd/epoxied/glassed or they used treated throughout and the resin bond failed due to the chemicals in the treated. Hopefully they didn't use treated on the stringers too!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Ranger
Date Posted: November-15-2010 at 4:24pm
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I'm in the process of doing an 86. If you need something specific, let me know and I will see what I can do. It would be best to send me an email at Jwarren@pacbell.net. I have more photo's with measurements than I would be able to post on this site.
Jeff |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: November-21-2010 at 9:56pm
Definatly off trailer! I made a rolling dolly that supported hull in 6 places, easily movable for clean up and better climbing in and out. trust me you will need a set of knee,s when your done  good luck . jeff
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Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: November-22-2010 at 7:22pm
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Roger
wanted to shoot you an email, but your address is private. Please shoot me an email when you get a chance, at jbragg67@comcast.net. ------------- |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: November-27-2010 at 9:37pm
Lifted the boat this Thursday. Might cut the floor out tomorrow. Would really like to get the motor out but still can't get a stand or lift lined up.    ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: November-27-2010 at 9:38pm
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Tried to send each of you an email but to no avail. I corrected my info on my profile for contact. Thanks guys.
------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-01-2010 at 12:10am
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Well,, Sunday I headed out and worked on her for a while. Peeled back half of the rear floor. To tell you the truth I was not surprised at what I found. There is no supports from the secondaries to the hull, the secondaries also don't link to the mains anywhere. Dry wall Screws held the 3/4 down. The foam had some decent sized voids for collecting water. Now that I popped the floor my foam seperated from the secondary about a half inch. That "creek" was a little gut wrenching, I thought it moved a mile at first. A lot of "plastic" like stuff used as void filler and adhesive for the floor. My pics next week will show more. Who has the CAD for the stringers? Pictures to follow as soon as I re-download Infanview for resize. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-01-2010 at 10:27am
The floor in the rear was so rotted it came out like tooth pics.   ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-01-2010 at 11:02am
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Roger,
I'm curious as to who did the "job" on your stingers and floor. Do you know if it was a "pro" or the PO? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-01-2010 at 8:08pm
Unfortunately it was a "pro". I just dug through the archives and found a bill from the P.O. from American Boat Works in Tarpon Springs Fl. for 14,818.95  for a better than new condition fiberglass job.------------- 87' 2001 |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: December-01-2010 at 8:15pm
WOW! That is some crazy money... Just looked at their website. "All work guaranteed as long as you own your boat." I guess for that kind of money, it was worth it for the PO. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2010 at 8:26am
Here's another example of why you should do a stringer job yourself!!! Almost 15K for a crap job and it only lasted 6 years! I wonder if American Boat Works is still around? Jody? If they are, we sure can add them to the list of were not to take a boat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: December-02-2010 at 12:39pm
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They sure seem to be still in business, here is there website:
http://www.americanboatworks.com/ - American Boat Works There Guarantee: American Boat Works Kick glass guarantee All fiberglass work is guaranteed as long as you own your boat ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-03-2010 at 12:37am
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Guaranteed to do what?? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-03-2010 at 1:29am
cost alot mooor cash in the long run. 
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Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-24-2010 at 9:58am
Some pics from last weekend.          ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-24-2010 at 10:36am
Wow, American Boat Works sure are pros!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 8:54pm
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I've never done fiberglass work before so I have a few questions. More than likely I'm going to keep my stringers in. If any thing I will replace the secondaries but hopefully they aren't to screwed from original. If all works out, I will just fill in where needed. I guess more of a remodel than an addition. Now that stringer dimensions are coming in I'm starting to assemble my materials. I'm thinking that for the floor I'm going to glass over foam like original. Would three layers of 6 oz. be sufficient for the floor? Would I need to use Biax anywhere or can I just order one type of glass? Like I said I'm new to this stuff so take it easy on me.
------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:43pm
| Dont take a chance, your in there do it all. im working on my sep and every piece of wood thats in it is totally gone. good luck! jeff |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:58pm
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I agree, take the extra day or two it will take you and just do the whole deal. Everyone who doesn't end up saying they wish they would have done the primaries. Plus, then you can say you did a COMPLETE floor/stringer job and there are no questions.
I see you are in MI, but the best place to get materials (if you haven't yet) would be US composites. When I tore into our 88 I found them to be the cheapest even with shipping and great to work with. http://www.uscomposites.com/ - us composites ------------- |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: December-28-2010 at 1:54am
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I agree. Do the primaries. Reselling it will be much easier.
I did glass over foam. I did it like this. Coat the stringers twice in CPES then one coat of expoxy. 1. Bed the stringers in 1 layer of mat to the hull 2. Fillet the edges with thickened epoxy 3. 1 layer of 2" Cloth 4. 1 layer of 4" cloth 5. 1 layer of 8" cloth 6. repeat the last three layers again 7. 1 layer of mat over the cloth 8. 1 layer of biaxial over the top down the sides 9. Foam 10. 1 layer of mat for floor 11. 1 layer of biaxial for floor 12. 1 layer of mat This is very simplified but should be plenty of glass. If you haven't read the other builds you should from start to finish. All this is discussed in full detail! Let us know if you need links to them. I didn't use the large sheets of cloth. For me it was a PITA so I stuck with mat and biaxial. Two seasons down and the floor is still very solid. |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: December-28-2010 at 12:28pm
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I have to agree with the rest of the crew. I started my project feeling like I was succumbing to peer pressure by doing a complete stringer job. As I got into it, I was surprised to see how much of the mains were so rotten they would not support their own weight once I got it out of the boat. By the way, the exterior biax was very strong, it was just that the stringers beneath were water logged and rotten. I am actually excited to see if this boat will handle any differently when I am finished. After all, it is Winter here in Michigan... What else are you going to do?
How did that boat get from Florida to the Great Lakes? Did you bring it up? Good luck. If you need some wood, go see the folks in the facilities management dept of the Yooper Dome. They would have some good leads on where to get some quality doug fir up there. Keep at it! ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-28-2010 at 10:59pm
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Yeah. We bought it online. Actually I bought it on the top of our local ski hill while I was snowboarding. That was on a Tuesday. Thursday afternoon we were on the road to Tarpon Springs, FL to pick her up. Monday I was back at work. What a looooooong haul. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-28-2010 at 11:04pm
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Doug Fir is on the rack at our local lumberyards. Due to our snow loads, it's spec'd in houses and garages here. I see your familiar with MQT area. That Yooper dome is an impressive display of what wood is capable of. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 6:28pm
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IMO those primaries stringers looks to be in good condition..seems they screwed on the top floor..anyway if you have come this far at least make sure you are not dealing with any rot there..make several test holes in them in different areas....if they check fine (no signs of water logged wood/rotted or black wood) plug the holes with epoxy..if they don´t well replace them...
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 6:55pm
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Kap....why not just replace them anyway? You are building the rest of the boat back to last another 20+ years, why not do the primaries as well. Sure, they may ook ok now...but what about in 10 or 15 years?
I say go ahead and do the whole thing, it shouldn't cost too much extra time or money. Can't argue with a COMPLETE stringer job. ------------- |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 8:18pm
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Take your motor out instead of spending hours working around it.
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Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 10:58pm
I'd love to. Unfortunately I can't get the engine hoist that I was hoping to line up. I've been thinking about fabbing one out of lumber. No seriously I probably will have to fab one.  ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 11:11pm
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You can rent engine hoists just about anywhere. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 11:12pm
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Build your cradle then go rent one. Got a buddy with a Bobcat? Once i had everything unbolted, i only ended up using for 20 minutes max. ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 1:41pm
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Just pulled the motor on my Ski Tique. First time i'd ever pulled a motor so I was a little over cautious. Used our little bobcat and had no problems.
I'd suggest pulling the motor, it will make life much easier and the motor will stay clean ------------- |
Posted By: Matt R.
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 6:25pm
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Just a thought Stevenson lumber in Adrian Mi. has 3 bunks off doug fir.2#. 2X10X24 2X10X20 and 2x10x18 ph#517-265-5151 ------------- Matt R. |
Posted By: Matt R.
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 6:26pm
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2x10x24 $27.00 ------------- Matt R. |
Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 7:15pm
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That is per foot is it not? If it is $27 for a whole board then let me know I will bring a trailer!!!
Keep in mind you want Clear fir as it has not any Knots! ------------- Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise. 1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 7:24pm
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Looks like it is per 2 ft (24") ------------- |
Posted By: Matt R.
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 7:43pm
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IT has some knots,it is #2 bord, the stringers in my 80 SN that i removed had sum knot it lasted 30 years. And that is $27.00 a board ------------- Matt R. |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 9:49pm
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Thanks but Adrian is about 11 hours south. I'm in the sticks guys, the nearest place to rent one is 100 miles away. It would be cheaper to buy one from Auto Value but I feel like getting Mid-Evil on it and building something that that might resemble a gallow but on Casters so I can slide it. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-30-2010 at 10:20pm
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It sounds like you might have missed this thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10081&PN=1&title=red-kneck-engine-hoist - Redneck Engine Hoist ------------- |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-31-2010 at 12:16am
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Thanks for the reminder. I have came across that thread a few times now. I'm going for the swing set look but mobile. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:38am
Finally removed the engine this Sunday. I finished my "project Goliath". That's what I ended up calling my engine hoist. I'm slowly chipping away at it. Here's some of the latest pics.       ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-16-2011 at 1:46am
 I'm trying to go get my project moving along again. I'm trying to go from a plywood floor and incorrectly built stringers to something that looks like this . The problem is that I have nothing to go off of. So starting from the rear can anyone tell me where this  is located and how far back from this the rise for the gas tank is? Then, what is the dimension of the removable hatch? It would really be nice to get some dimensions on these.. 
Any help would be greatly appreciated. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-27-2011 at 8:59pm
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Has anyone documented the dimensions of an 87' stringers in the past year? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: December-27-2011 at 9:13pm
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Roger, Are you having problems with the primaries you have in the boat now? I ask because although not original in shape, something unoriginal might work just as well.
Your biggest factors are making sure they fit the motor mounts correctly for proper width and then allowing enough room to move the mounts up and down to center them on the shaft log/strut. I've seen a few modified designs on boats that received new stringers and they've worked just fine. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:13am
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Chris is right. If your engine was in the correct place (align-able) then just get the stringer height under the cradle correct and you'll be fine. The rear removable panel needs to be long enough to reach from the engine to the gas tank. That rear support under the panel is optional- personally, I would leave it out. If you put it in, just locate it such that it doesnt interfere with adjusting your packing gland. The gas tank supports need to be under the gas tank... the tank can only be located in one spot- which is where the filler neck lines up with the hole in the deck.
Really, so long as you know where the engine needs to end up, you can pretty much make up the rest as you go along. No old patterns necessary. ------------- |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:25am
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I emailed him images and measurement of all my old stringers so if he really wanted to match it up, he probably could. Assuming they were the same between our years. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: December-29-2011 at 1:20am
Justin I must apologize. I went back and checked my email and found your drawings. THANK YOU. Some how I over looked them or when I transferred them to my files they did not copy. But I have what I need now. 
My current set up doesn't have the cross member for the removable hatch. If you are going to sack out your boat I would definitely recommend making sure this piece is in your rebuild. Mine panel was easily sagged 1" in the middle. I was always scared that one day enough weight would be on it to drop it in on the drive shaft. Thanks again everyone for your help. I'm so excited that my build can get back on track. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-29-2011 at 11:31am
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I was as precise as I could be on those measurements, but obviously some of my old wood was a little rotten and corners missing a little of the tops etc. If you follow that it should get you really close, as I used my old ones for templates and my new ones went in with a little planing. But obviously the main pieces are the stringer lengths and heights etc. The little notches that are cutout dont need to be as precise as they are just for the pieces of wood that go in for floor support. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: December-29-2011 at 3:25pm
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different hull for sure, but nwz didn´t have a cross member below the removable panel, it sat holded by an aluminum L frame bolted to the stringers. my old one was rotted and some delaminantion in the corners but it was quite solid when you steped on it..
it had no glass at all, just the carpet on top, and bare on the bilge side... new panel received glass on both sides... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 3:20pm
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Does anyone have a Picture of their stringer project showing the front half of the boat right before foam would go in. I'm @ the boat and I have some discrepancies with measurements on the front half of the primaries. Maybe with some views of the framing I can figure it out. Mainly in the area of the steps the would be around the battery box and wher the Piece of plywood would go. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 4:03pm
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mine was pretty much right where the lip of the batter box was. My battery box lip sat on the piece of plywood. Did you save any of the old floor for a template? Im not sure how crucial this is. As long as its close and everything fits. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 4:33pm
what he said :) Here is my collection to all of my rebuild images if that helps. http://www.flickr.com/photos/11202092@N03/sets/72157612169227615/" rel="nofollow - http://www.flickr.com/photos/11202092@N03/sets/72157612169227615/ |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 9:56pm
Unfortunately my boat was already remodeled once so I have nothing that is origianal to make fit. Here's a picture that I'm trying to rebuild off of.  I have a couple of issues with it though that I could use some help with. The bottom stringer in the picture is the primary, if I start with a 6" piece of wood at the stern and work my way forward with the dimensions shown, then by the time I get up to the 7" space for the rear motor mount I would be down to only 2" of "meat" on the stringer. Or...is the 2" jog at the rear built up with 2" on top of the 6", or is the 2" rise really a 1" rise. Something just doesn't seem right. Also the primary is drawn short of what it is. I think it should go 32" or so farther forward but that's not what the drawing i've been given shows. Question: If the front of the stringer does get one more rise for roughly 32" how high is it? 1/2"??------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 10:09pm
I didn't like the idea of the stringers just stopping so I made a bulk head to attach them to. I cut a notch as a lip to accept the new floor so they would be flush.
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 10:16pm
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A 2x6 isn't wide enough. The 2"x15" at the stern is for the tank supports to sit on. |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-16-2012 at 10:23pm
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I'm using 2x8 so it's actualy 7.25".. so your saying it is 6 at the rear? If so that would mean that one of the dimensions forward for the motor mounts or something must be shorter of a notch than shown on the drawing. I also notice on the drawing the secondary stringer notches are only .5" deep. Should these be .75" for a 1x in the rear and .5" up front for the plywood? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 2:15am
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I can get you all the measurements and pics you need of an 84 tomorrow. I have ripped out everything and tomorrow am taking out the stringers. I plan to measure and document everything before it is all out. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 2:58am
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that would be great! ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 8:40am
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Roger, I know you mentioned this is the second time around for the stringer work but are there any original reference points still on the hull sides? Also get the pylon attached to the keel and see if you can pull a height from it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 11:48am
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This is what I was referring to in another post. What did CC originally use for templates in the factory? are they still around? I can't see them throwing them away? but maybe. ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 11:50am
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Hey Doc Been out on Gull Lake yet this year? ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 12:32pm
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Not yet maybe today putting a friends pontoon in. ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 12:45pm
Unfortunately the boat has been worked so much that I can't find any reference lines from the original build. Also my Pylon was removed from P.O. so that is another dead end. In the drawing above, the secondary stringers seem to be correct. Now I just need to know how the notches from the secondaries line up with the mains (mostly towards the bow). I thought I seen a picture of 1x going across all four stingers somewhere around the battery box. Then I'm curious if the ply sits on the 1x or is my memory decieving me. The hard part for me is that I need to build it in my head before I actually build it. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 2:52pm
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Roger - I am ready now but it would be a while before I could transcribe everything and post it on the forums. It might be easier to give you all the numbers you want over the phone. Feel free to call me at five one eight - 857 - nine eight one two I'll be working on it most of the day. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: akabulla
Date Posted: March-17-2012 at 10:45pm
I used a 2x8x16 for my primaries and then had to add a piece on the back for the riser to lift the gas tank up. If it was all one piece you would need a 2x10x16'. I don't remember the exact height but this is what I did with the black lines being the riser I added:  |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-18-2012 at 11:50am
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Thanks to Jeff I have 100% of the measurements for an 84', so that makes be about 95% sure of my numbers for a 87'. We did note some differences in the three year difference. 1. 84' (or at least his had a cooler and battery box, mine doesn't but that doesn't mean that it didn't) so at the tip of his primaries he has an additional notch for a cross member. 2. 84' secondary stringer stays straigt in the rear, where I think mine is suppose to notch down 1" in the rear for 14 inches. 3. 84's tank support is 2 3/4" high by 18 1/8" long. Where I think mine should be 2" high X 15" long. 4. In the 1" gap between the long and shorter secondary the 84' only had one space block to the aft as I have seen 4 blocks in the 87'. Would any one be able to clarify on this? One point I'm still shaky on is the thickness of the main stringer. At the rear of the main is it 6" witout the block for the gas tank then add the 2" or in an 84' case 2 3/4". or is 7 1/4" overall then you subtract the 2" or 2 3/4" for the tank support. I could also reverse engineer it if I had what the stringer depth is at the motor mounts. Another question I have is if you layed a pattern of the stringer on a straight line does the top of the stringer at the rear (tank support) line up with the highest point on the front of the stringer or is this a 1/2" down or so. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: March-18-2012 at 12:13pm
| working on my first main today.what i took out was in great shape.i can fit my old main on my new 2x8.my raised area for the tank does not look as high as the one pictured.i'll let you know what i figure out tonight. |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: March-18-2012 at 1:25pm
| just went out and measured area in question,total hieght in the tank area is 5 3/8" the added piece is only 1 1/2" tall.probably raises more questions then answers but i knew the pictures were different from my 86' |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-18-2012 at 10:36pm
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Thanks Brian, See the issue that keeps stalling me is when I'm starting from the rear with the measurements by the time I get down to the the rear engine bolts I end up with between 2 3/8" for the 86' and 3" for the 84' of wood remaining for the height at the rear enginge mount location. If no one is following what I'm trying to say, for the 86', starting with 5 3/8" piece of lumber, coming down 1 1/2" at the front of the tank leaving me with 3 7/8" then right behind the rear motor mount it slightly tapers down 1/2", then another 1" to leave a total of 2 3/8". Does this sound correct? To me it sounds too skimpy, but then again what do I know? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 1:27am
| i think iam following what your saying.why are you starting with a 5 3/8 peice of wood?i fit everything on a 1x8 which is really 7".i wish you were closer i have a perfectly good but still damp drivers side main sitting in my garage that as of a hour ago i dont need |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 1:15pm
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I was sayin 5 3/8 piece of wood because you had stated that the total height in the rear is that. But if it needs to be on a 2x8 that points me to believe that the front of the stringer sticks up higher than the rear? Is there anyway you could take a picture of the stringer traced out on the new piece of wood or a picture of the old stringer on top of the new piece of 8" board? I'm looking to see if the front and rear of the stringer both line up with the top of the new 8" board or if the front lines with the top and the rear is down an inch or so. On a different note, are you on Lake Monadnock? I stayed there for a summer in 1999 before moving to New Ipswich for a few years. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: March-20-2012 at 5:01pm
| I have determined my picture problem is computer related and have not addressed it.my old stringer just fit on a 1x8,may have lost less then 1/16" of raised section in rear but i think iam good.i live in lake monomonoc in rindge nh about 10 min, from mt.monadnock |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: April-08-2012 at 1:45pm
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Can anyone tell me how Much drive shaft should be showing on the bottom of the boat. Or whats the space between the rudder and drive shaft measure out at? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-08-2012 at 10:11pm
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You want the fore side of the prop to land @ 1/2"-3/4" from the back of the strut. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 10:33am
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I've seen pictures of people removing all of the stringers and I've read where people say to only remove one side at a time. If I want to remove them all is there any special way to support the boat or should I steer clear of removing all of the stringers at once? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 10:45am
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The mains are where the one-at-a-time approach can be critical. Leaving one in maintains hull integrity and gives you a solid reference point to build back to. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 11:31am
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I am in that phase now. I removed my port side first because it was the best looking stringer of the bunch. It came out in one piece along with the secondary. I was able to trace it and also use the starboard side as references as I fit the port sides in. I have sense gotten all my port side stringer glassed in and removed the starboard ones this past weekend. I am glad I did it the way I did because my starboard main came out in three pieces. I also traced my port main on my material for the starboard to make sure it would be close, now I will have to go off that tracing to cut the starboard. I would advise to do it one side at a time. It also breaks up the pain of all that grinding into a couple phases. Allen ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 11:38am
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One note on doing this. I would level the boat side to side before starting so you can use always go back the other side for reference. As for the hub-to-strut clearance the actual design criteria is the space should be equal to the diameter of the shaft. I have seen it vary quite a bit though. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 11:40am
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Wouldn't it be cool if we had in the reference section homemade copies of Blueprints of main and secondary stringers of the different hulls that have been restrung here. I realize that it would be extra effort on the owners part to to lay out every dimension but man it sure would be helpful to those who will need to do a stringer job and whose stringers are nothing but mush and dust. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 12:04pm
That would take all the fun out of it! I just cut the top skins off and used a plunge router to excavate the rotten wood. That left me with allot less grinding and tabbing work. Of course I didn't do a 100% gut. More like 60% The other thing is I was not the first guy into that grid. The last person to work on it was a little lacking in skill. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: April-11-2012 at 10:39am
I've been on a mission to do just that only I wanted to take it a step further and have actual templates made up. I wrote CC and Art remembers having templates but that is as far as I've gotten don't know if they are on a shelf some where hiding or thrown away? ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: April-30-2012 at 11:38am
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Hey guys, I'm looking for some more info. I just finnished cutting out my second secondary stringer, and I'm getting ready to lay them in. My measurements are still a little blurry in some areas. I guess my first question would be, how wide is the cavity between the secondary and main for the exhaust hose. Any number will do, either at the rear of the boat or towards the bow where the channel ends with the piece of wood that goes to the primary. Second, how far from the rear of the boat does the exhaust cavity go(from the rear to the piece of would that cuts the channel off and ties in to the main stringer). If someone could hook a tape on the bolt at the center of the rudder shaft and give me a dimension that would be great. Also what are the dimensions of the rear hatch that the motor cover sits on? Also if someone could hook a tape on the rudder shaft bolt in the center and let me know how far it is to the front edge near the motor of the hatch. Trying to build back to original after it has been hacked by pictures is proving to be a tought task. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: May-02-2012 at 12:20am
| This kind of complete rebuild is what my 1983 needs, but I don't have the tools or the environment to do this kind of work myself. What should I expect to pay for someone to restore my entire interior for me? |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-02-2012 at 1:12am
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That would be a hard estimate, especially for a quality job. I have been doing mine in the driveway, you don't necessarily have to have a big shop or many special tools. The weather will dictate some of your working times, but it beats paying someone to do it. The tools required are also affordable. I would highly advise you to research other threads and at least entertain the idea of doing it yourself, it is very rewarding. ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: May-13-2012 at 10:58am
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Does some one know how many cubic feet of foam there is under the floor? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-13-2012 at 12:38pm
| Ace where are you located? |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: June-02-2012 at 4:02pm
I'm slowly moving along with the project. I've come to realize that when doing a job like this the posts never show how much grinding their realy is. For every picture of progress their should be five pictures of grinding. When I removed my shaft I pleasantly found some nice grooving where the cutlass is. Joy oh joy. The last rebuild had the primary stringers to close to each other that their wasn't enough rooom to align the engine right. Now that the foam is all done I removed the boat from the warehouse and trailered it back to my house to complete the project. The first thing I noticed was that the boat sat evenly on the trailer, prior to ripping it apart every time I trailered it it would creep to one side. I'm thinking that that meant one side was more water logged in the foam and the extra weight to one side would push it to the other once it started bouncing down the road. Here are some pics.      ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-06-2012 at 3:24pm
I'm a few days away from gelcoating and I have one issue I was looking to solve. When rebuilding I left the plywood up front run long over the bilge, I didn't have an original piece to trace the cut out for the engine. I'm looking for some dimensions for the 87' for the cut out on the ply wood. I didn't want to make the cut earlier in case it was too big and the engine cover wouldn't cover it. But I'd like to get it cut so I can dress the edge before I gel. The easiest way I can think of to get these numbers would be to have some one pull their rear hatch and hook a tape to the bolt head at the top of the rudder and then give me some dimensions from that to each side. Would any one be able to help me with this? Otherwise I have to wait for my shaft to come in and then lower the motor enough to get an idea of how much room Is needed for the motor and fuel filter up front. My motor is in a storage unit and I'd have to get it out, in the boat, then out of the boat and the back into the unit until I'm done gelcoating.    Here's some pictures of where I'm at right now. ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: July-06-2012 at 4:01pm
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Mine is possibly different so I will wait for someone with a 88 or 87 to chime in. Looking good though. You are really making headway now. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-19-2012 at 3:46am
Thanks Pete for the info on the shaft and log. I landed the motor in this evening and got to wondering..... How do you make sure your motor is level from left to right after a job like this? or will it really matter if I'm a few degrees off axis? It was a good feeling to slide the rear seat in and have it fit snug. Glad the floor heights ended up correct in the rear.  ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2012 at 8:56am
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You can just "eye ball" or measure the position rod ends on the front mounts. It doesn't matter if you are off slightly. Get it as level as you can with the hull. The critical is the shaft to engine alignment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-20-2012 at 2:24am
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What is the rule of thumb for tongue weight. I've heard many different formulas, also does anyone know where to buy the u-bolts that hold the bow stop and where to find new lenses for old air guide speedo's? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-20-2012 at 2:39am
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25966&KW=airguide+lens&PID=333436&title=airguide-replacement-lens-and-pointer-available#333436" rel="nofollow - Airguide replacement lens ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2012 at 9:04am
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10% of the gross weight is normal on the tongue. http://www.mcmaster.com/#u-bolts/=ihi2pk" rel="nofollow - U bolts at McMaster ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:25pm
I'm encountering a brain freeze currently. Can some one tell me what wires go where with hooking up the gas tank? I have a red and a black and a green, I think the green goes to the deck fill and then to the center post? Which would mean that's the ground? So the black also goes there? Then the red goes on the terminal on the outside of the ring?  ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2012 at 7:26pm
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You had better trace the wires and see where they go. Black would be the normal color for ground. The green may be jumpers to ground all the metal. The red may be the aft stern light. Where's the gas gauge sender wire? Again, see where they go and or get the VOM out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-23-2012 at 6:41pm
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My driver seat right now has the fiberglass base, then some marine plastic built up in 3/4" layers where the original seat slides are suppose to be, then my seat. I was wondering if I ordered this http://www.nautiqueparts.com/driversseatslidecomplete.aspx" rel="nofollow - Seat Slides , would I need anything else in order to connect it to my base and seat other than some bolts from the local hardware store or does this include everything that I'll need? ------------- 87' 2001 |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-24-2012 at 2:31pm
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I'm darn near ready for the first wet test. After hooking up my carb i notice the choke doesn't open when the throttle is moved to full. What did I miss or what needs to be adjusted to get this to happen? ------------- 87' 2001 |