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Cursed!!! hitted something

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20627
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 6:20am


Topic: Cursed!!! hitted something
Posted By: kapla
Subject: Cursed!!! hitted something
Date Posted: February-12-2011 at 3:48pm
A couple of weekends ago it was the platform...
Now I was out today..excellent conditions...did some footing..then filled the ballast and my buddy had started his wb session....made a couple of jumps..and while underway I hitted what i think was a log..it was below water so I didn't see what was...I kept going as I after hitting it boat felt fine. After a flip my friend falls...
but when taking off again..boat vibrated.not badly but enough to end our ski day.
Checked the prop blades and they felt like are ok..
anyway we decided to return to the marina. Dumped all the water and headed back to shore.
In the marina they put the boat in the lift, and I got to inspect the drive gear..prop looks ok..then i turned the shaft by hand and it wobbles a little bit from strut to prop...

my boating WE is gone...

updates to come....enjoy your WE...

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique



Replies:
Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: February-12-2011 at 3:56pm
Kap, that sucks!
Happened to me a couple of summers ago. Put my good freind in the boat and launched him. I had to drive the trailer back around to the house (kinda tricky). He finally shows up to the dock after an unusually long wait. Just idling. Turns out he hit an underwater cement curb on the ramp. Mangled the prop, bent the shaft, strut and one fin. It was a bummer of a weekend.
Hope yours is not that bad!

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-12-2011 at 5:55pm
Sheer horror. Sorry to hear that.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: February-12-2011 at 10:09pm
I still cant believe the shaft took all the damage and not any of the prop blades...

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-12-2011 at 10:41pm
Sorry to hear Kap. Hope everything is fine with the boat.

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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson




Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: February-13-2011 at 2:48am
Highly unusual the prop is fine but the shaft is bent. That's some hard steel that would take a lot to bend it.

Worry about your trouble. No fun.

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Mullet Free since 93
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-13-2011 at 12:20pm
Sebaatian - Maybe just the prop came loose on taper? I had that happen - made a bad vibration, esp. in reverse.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: February-14-2011 at 5:44am
Seb,
Sorry to hear that...
And it always appears as if a problem never comes alone... Had a series like that two years ago. It does indeed make you feel cursed...




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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-15-2011 at 7:21pm
after 2 rounds of fighting with the prop i was able to remove it with a home made clamp style remover..that didn´t hold so much..shaft coupler came out easily with the socket and bolt system..Getting the shaft out was a little challenging as the rudder is almost in the way..had to force it a little bit in order to get it out.
I will probably have a new shaft made and this one straighten out in order to have a spare one.
As I have the thing out, I´ll replace the strut bearing..and here is where I have some questions. The strut barrel is around 6" long, and the 1 piece bearing I bought is 4", problem is the the set screws in the strut are set wider than 4", so I should either drill one new hole, or set the bering closer to one of the screws, and fasten it from one point only? in this case where should the bearing lay, in the middle of the strut, or closer to the input or output side?
Or cut the bearing in half?
My actual bearing is some kind of local made repair as the rubber is directly glued to the inner walls of the strut..I need to figure out how to remove it. I was thinking on using a flat screwdriver, and some heat? But i´m afraid of scoring the inner surface?
What is best method to slide the new bearing in? heat, soap, Rubber mallet?


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-15-2011 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Sebaatian - Maybe just the prop came loose on taper? I had that happen - made a bad vibration, esp. in reverse.


definetely not..prop was bonded to the shaft...lol
shaft is bent in the tip between strut and prop.
On the other hand prop "looked" ok, but I took it anyway to the prop shop to have it checked..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: February-15-2011 at 10:06pm
Kap, the inner of the strut should be smooth before you put the new bearing in.

The device to put the bearing in consist of a threaded rod with 2 strong washers bigger than the strut diameter and 2 nuts, you work on the nuts while driving the bearing in with the washer. while the other one supports from the otherside of the strut.
If you had the strut out you could use a press.

Keep in mind that if you drill a new hole on it for the tiny alen screw but then you would also need a male to make the thread.
If you cut the bearing try to align the water channels on it when you install them.




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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: February-15-2011 at 11:28pm
When I replaced my cutlass it was short also. I put it close to the stern side because I thought it needed more support there. it fit in very tight so I just used the one set screw . been one season so far so good ..


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-17-2011 at 6:24pm
I have everything back togheter..
Got some pictures of the press used to slide the new strut bearing in..worked really good.
I checked the alligment and it was fine..same gap all around.
shaft was straighten out and prop balanced.
cost of both repairs was $85..
Pior to putting the removable floor panel I will have a test run in order to check everything is ok.

I was also thinking on doing some mods to that panel. As everytime you need to access the shaft coupler to service it out you need to move the rear seat, or in my case the custom made cargo trunk (loaded with some dumbbels and gear)is pia. My idea is to cut the floor panel and make a two piece floor, so to service the shaft I don´t need to lift the rear trunk. Just remove the doghouse hinges and half of the floor..does it sound crazy?



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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-17-2011 at 7:18pm
Kap, thats a great idea. Not sure why it hasnt been done before, or why i didnt think of it!?!?!

Let me know how it goes and I may be doing the same to my Ski Tique.

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-17-2011 at 7:28pm
Its definitely a pain to pull that rear panel off- the motorbox, rear seat and any rear panels need to come out first. Your idea would certainly make it easier... but really, if youre not constantly hitting stuff, that panel almost never has to come up. The only real maintenance item under there is the packing- and that hardly ever needs attention. If you split that panel, you'll be left with an unsightly seam in the floor when the rear seat is out.

Just a counterargument!

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-17-2011 at 9:56pm
well..down here we have lots of debris floating around in the water and tides also make depth changes a lot..so it's "normal" for us to hit something or ground it at least once every year if not more..so having the two panels would save some time.
Yes the seem would definetely be visible w/o the rear seat but I'd do it on the edge of the seat so when it's in position there's no visible joint.

Might tackle the task on the winter.

pictures of today's assy
old bearing was directly vulcanized in the strut


bare strut

sliding it in...


shaft in


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: February-17-2011 at 10:25pm


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-19-2011 at 10:38pm
got to test drive the boat today...prior to the rain, works like a charm..smooth as silk..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-19-2011 at 11:25pm
Congrats, you work fast, I would still be sulking.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-19-2011 at 11:53pm
it's summer!! boat gotta be always ready....
I also got to do the floor board mod..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-20-2011 at 12:38am
Pics, and how does it work?

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-20-2011 at 2:04am
basically I cut the rear removable floor paned in half so I can service the sahft coupling W/o removingt the rear seat

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-20-2011 at 2:06am
I saw your plan, sounded interesting. How do you like the results?

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Kap, thats a great idea. Not sure why it hasnt been done before, or why i didnt think of it!?!?!

Let me know how it goes and I may be doing the same to my Ski Tique.


i went ahead and cut the panel in 2..I went first and cut the carpet with the cutter..then grabbed the circular saw and splitted the panel in half.
The the idea was to lay a coat of resin and cloth on the exposed edges of the wood..but my resin accelerator dryed, need to buy some in order to finish...I will also put an alluminun edge on the joint to give a finish and so that the carpet don´t peel off..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:32pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

I saw your plan, sounded interesting. How do you like the results?


still to put it back in the boat..
I´ll post some pics in the night of whats done till now.


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:35pm
You could also just wrap the carpet around that seam and attach it underneath if you didn't want to mess with the aluminum trim piece. It may hide better that way also. Whichever way, show us some pics of the results.

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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:07pm
Looking forward to the pics...




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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:35pm
to do the wrap i would need to recarpet both panels again..I need to see If I have some left overs, and if its enought to do both panels.
And ordering more carpet is PIA it was a special order and need to aske a certain qty of it just to make so kinda no go.


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-21-2011 at 10:41pm
I ended up using a black plastic trim. The joint of the panels is supposed to be 1" below the rear seat so unless removed it won't be visible..




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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 6:54am
Nice job Seb.

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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 10:48am
Looks great, Let us know how it works on the water and trailer, I plan to copy I am just concerned abot the smaller panel having the mass to stay in place. I will let you be the guinny pig.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: sagres88
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:28pm
hi guys,

Is it possible to get the strut bearing in and out with the shaft still in? i'm not really in to taking the shaft out.

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1990 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by sagres88 sagres88 wrote:

hi guys,

Is it possible to get the strut bearing in and out with the shaft still in? i'm not really in to taking the shaft out.


Nope it is what it is...

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: sagres88
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:42pm
too bad..thanks for the fast reply!

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1990 Ski Nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-22-2011 at 9:55pm
what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: sagres88
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 5:38am
that could work as well. i will have a look today. i took a week off from work to work an the boat like wetsanding and smaller things like this.

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1990 Ski Nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 11:14am
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..

That approach opens up a whole different can of worms when it comes time to realign the drivetrain. It is much simpler to just remove the shaft.

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..

That approach opens up a whole different can of worms when it comes time to realign the drivetrain. It is much simpler to just remove the shaft.


it is indeed much simpler to remove the shaft anyway as you note Tim...
Always speaking if you have a dual taper shaft...single taper is more tricky though..


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 1:18pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:


it is indeed much simpler to remove the shaft anyway as you note Tim...
Always speaking if you have a dual taper shaft...single taper is more tricky though..

A single taper shaft is a little bit more of a PITA, but its not aweful. Getting it in and out is much simpler than trying to get the strut back perfectly aligned... thats not an easy task to do with the boat completeley gutted, let alone if the shaft and log hose are still installed!

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Posted By: sagres88
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 2:42pm
before i start doing anything, what is the average lifetime of those bearings?
i'm only boating in fresh clean water so no sand/beaching or anything.


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1990 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2011 at 3:49pm
Bart,
Alot really depends on how well the shaft to strut alignment is maintained. I've seen them go in one season but on the average, I'd say 600 to 700 running hours in clean water is a good figure.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: sagres88
Date Posted: February-24-2011 at 4:30pm
Ok, mine is on ± 500 engine hours from when they put a new shaft and prop in there. I will wait till next winter when i'm planning to do a transmission rebuilt. Thanks for the info.

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1990 Ski Nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-28-2011 at 5:32pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Looks great, Let us know how it works on the water and trailer, I plan to copy I am just concerned abot the smaller panel having the mass to stay in place. I will let you be the guinny pig.


well tests were fine!! works great, I lifted the dog house and put the lift arm in place and no movement on the floor panel...I also tried full open and also no floot movement.
The joint is under the rear seat so is not visible at all. Pics to follow at nigth

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique



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