'81 Ski Tique Stringer Job
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20860
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:43pm
Topic: '81 Ski Tique Stringer Job
Posted By: MMT
Subject: '81 Ski Tique Stringer Job
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 3:18pm
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I just purchased this Ski Tique for $1800. Excellent condition inside and out and new 350 Chevy motor.
Previous owner has already removed the floor and foam. I thanked him. I've done stringer on a '70 Skier, but this is quite a bit different. Gonna have some questions. 
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Replies:
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 3:20pm
| after the new plywood floor is installed do you fiberglass it to the hull? |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 6:34pm
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If you foam you need to make the floor waterproof. That means glassing to stringers too.
If you do not foam, it really does not matter. The carpet or vinyl will cover the seams. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 6:40pm
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You may already know this, but if the floor was rotten and the foam was soaked (which seems to be a given since they were both removed) then Im sure the stringers contain some degree of rot. You would be best off replacing them.
The foam vs. no foam debate has been waged here before. There are pros and cons for each approach. That being said, I disagree with Roger- regardless of whether you foam or not, everything in your power should be done to waterproof all of your structure- both stringers and floor. A healthy dose of CPES/resin before installing, and then a healthy glass schedule over each of them. I would recommend you read, read, read... lots of great threads covering stringer rebuilds here. Theres a lot of info regarding materials, methods, tools and other tips and tricks that may not get repeated. Arm yourself with information! Edit: I reread your specific question and Roger's response and I think I understand what he's saying. His stance was that its not necessary to glass the floor panels to the stringers and hull sides if youre not trying to keep foam underneath it dry. I suppose that has some merit, as that is how the non-foamed boats from the 60's were built. I still disagree with that method though, as the Ski Tique hull (71+) was always built with glass over foam (and thus the floor tied the stringers and hull sides together) so I would recommend doing so when rebuilding, regardless of whether you foam or not. That is the method I plan to use on my '71 Skier rebuild (ply floor, no foam), which has the same hull. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 7:02pm
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in other words, dont put the boat near water ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2011 at 9:25pm
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Kent,
I agree with Tim that the floor should be glassed to the hull sides ether way you go. I'm a no foam guy and would go ply with plenty of CPES and glass on both sides. Epoxy resin of course!! Just as Tim also mentioned, you will need to address the stringers as well. Do not go on the "the engine mount lag bolts don't turn in the stringer" method only. Now that you have purchased the boat, you need to dig further. Keep the pictures coming!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 12:52am
 Right on the money Tim.
I was talking with Reip a couple of years ago about one of his older boats with the floor not glassed to the hull. When put in the water, the hull to floor gap lessened. When the boat was removed from the water, that gap seemed to increase a bit with less outside hull pressure. We talked about why but then had another beer and forgot about it. But again, Tim is correct on what I meant in my comments. And always waterproof stringers and floor to prevent future rot as Tim says.... ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 3:33pm
| Yes I am doing a new full stringer structure, that will be entirely encased in glass. I was leaning toward glassing the floor to the hull, and now I'm sure that I will. |
Posted By: FLSKIER
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 5:19pm
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This boat seams to be a 81 or earlier hull.82 has the chines in the rear sides like the 2001 hulls. ------------- 82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: March-10-2011 at 12:34am
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I was wondering the same thing Jody. Good eye! ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-10-2011 at 1:53am
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Yes you are correct. It is an '81. Sorry for the typo.
And no I will not be doing the foam. |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 6:24pm
| Question...The area in the hull that is painted has a something that looks like bondo between the paint and the glass. do I need to grind this all out back to the reddish glass where new glass will be applied, or can I just grind it back to a fresh surface for the glass/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 6:29pm
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Kent,
I suggest grinding it off untill you get close to the glass. It's a filler and it's strength isn't the greatest. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 10:21pm
| Wow 4 hours of grinding today and I'm about half done with the stringer area. Not looking forward to grinding out that filler all the way around the hull for the floor. |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 10:28pm
Stringers rough cut. Fit pretty well. They still need fine tuned after grinding is complete.
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Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 10:32pm
| I did have to cut out the wood on the transom that the exhause and swim platform bracket bolt to. They were slightly rotted. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 10:40pm
I'm glad you took a look at the transom wood as well. Some don't and will regret it later. The threads here prove you need to address ALL the wood! 
kent, Look'n good! Don't forget the CPES! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 12:30pm
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I removed and replaced my exhaust and rudder plates on my 67SN. I did not do the center of the transom as the test holes came out looking great. The stuff I did remove was ruined. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 3:18pm
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Need some advice fellas? I read most of the posts on stringer jobs but I'm still unsure.
All 4 stringers are epoxyed in. I have 4 and 8 inch cloth, 2 layers of each to build up the fillet in the corners, but my question is what to use to wrap the whole stringer? I bought biax but I've. Read its hard to work with and uses a boat load (no pun) of epoxy. ???????? |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 3:50pm
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The Biax is difficult to work with but I think that it is important to
cover the stingers in a continuous sheet of biax for support and protection. As for using a lot of epoxy, that is the case. But if you keep working the overage (runoff) back into the Biax it is not as much lost. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 4:55pm
It is, and it does- but its also very strong. Its not fun to work with, but its a good choice for wrapping the stringers. I would fillet the top edges so theyre not so sharp though. ------------- |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 5:44pm
| Ok sounds good, but that leads me to some other questions. Does the biax stop at the bottom of the stringer or should I wrap it down onto the hull as well? And do the secondy stringers get biax? If not what's recommended for those. Thanks. |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 5:53pm
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I took my Biax over the 4" and 8" cloth onto the hull. Just seems to
tie everything together. I did the secs the same way. In my case that was needed for floor height to be correct. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-27-2011 at 6:00pm
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I did the same thing as Roger. Each side of the stringer/hull connection got 12" biax tape, and then I wrapped the top of the mains with it. The secondary's only got it on the sides though- I figured no need to wrap the tops since they'll be sealed by the floor. ------------- |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: March-30-2011 at 7:27pm
| Do you guys lay any cloth on the fillet for the secondaries or just biax? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-30-2011 at 7:30pm
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Read some of the stringer threads... personally, I wouldnt use any less than 3 layers of mat/cloth on a secondary. My last rebuild got 3 cloth + biax and I plan on reusing that schedule in the future. ------------- |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: April-01-2011 at 11:51pm
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Got my platform and exhaust wood beded on tonight. Next I need need to mix up some peanut butter and put a bigger fillet on the main and secondary stringers.
Can I make the fillet with peanut butter the gently press my first layer of cloth into it then brush with epoxy or should I let the peanut butter set up first? Read most of the stringer threads, but haven't heard of anyone doing it that way. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 12:10am
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Once your fillet is nice and smooth I would not mess with it till it is kicked. You can try to get your first layers of cloth on there before it is cured so that you still get a chemical bond though. I used a gallon ziploc with the corner cut out to pipe out a bead along the stringer, then shaped it by running the top round edge of a bondo spreader along the joint to create a nice smooth transition.
In this picture you can see where the main is filleted and the secondary is not.  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 12:13am
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Some of these guys have more experience than me, but I laid 2" tape over the peanut butter fillet, and then laid 4" tape over that without waiting for it to set up, and with good results. I made the fillet mixture pretty thick. This method used a lot less resin than when I waited for the fillet and each layer to set up. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 8:44am
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kent,
Keegan and Brian are correct but don't expect any of the resin from the fillet is help saturate the first layer of glass. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: April-15-2011 at 6:23pm
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Haven't been able to find an answer to this question in the other threads.
My stringers are bedded and clothed in. Is it better to wrap them in a continuous length of biax before the 2 bulkheads are in, or install the bulkheads and then biax around them? Just curious from a strength standpoint. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-15-2011 at 6:27pm
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Pete and Joe (or some other ME) will probably know better than me, but I chose to go full length on the stringers with the biax. Then I installed the bulkheads- bedding, tape and biax for those.
So, I guess I did both. ------------- |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: April-15-2011 at 6:59pm
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Is that the original steering cable I see?? If so and you are doing what you are doing, might as well spent another $100 or so and buy a new one and put it in now. Don't do what I did. That was the only thing I did not replace in my rebuild and it broke, for whatever reason, a month after I was finished and right in the middle of a perfect day on the water. Had to be towed in. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: April-15-2011 at 8:36pm
Thanks. I was leaning toward the continuous biax method. Just seems stronger than the interupted biax. Ok one more question. I've heard the biax is difficult to work with but I haven't played with it yet. Would it hurt to secure it with a few stainless staples prior to epoxy? Just a limited few to hold it in place. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-18-2011 at 11:59am
I would say thats probably a bad idea. You'll need to apply epoxy on both sides of the material to get it to wet out fully. The staples would prevent you from making any minor positional changes, so they might induce air bubbles. I dont think they would help much anyways. For the over-the-top layer, wet everything out, then wait until the resin starts to kick (tack up). That should be enough for the biax to hold around the stringer. Prior to that, it does not want to stay put. ------------- |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-28-2011 at 2:14pm
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 1:38am
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 1:46am
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 1:51am
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 1:55am
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 5:20pm
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Looks great! I really like thee double battery set up you have in the floor.
We're tossing around the idea of tearing into PicturePat's 84 this winter and might have to steal this idea since that boat has zero storage for keys, phones and wallets. Your strainer/raw water pickup seems to take an interesting route next to the manifold. Mine has the pickup in the same placement but the hose runs under the trans around to the other side looping over the trans before it enters the trans cooler. I'd be a little worried about the hose getting hot with it on that manifold. I'll see if I can dig up a picture. Love the carpet!!! ------------- |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 5:47pm
Finally done she hit the water yesterday. Almost anyway, interior will be redone this winter along with a good motor and tranny detailing.
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 5:53pm
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Congratulations! She is looking good ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 5:58pm
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Thanks. My battery box took a couple trips to Napa measuring batteries and several evenings sipping on a cold one and scratching my head trying to figure out how to get all that stuffed in the floor. The rear battery and bilge cover is screwed down while the front is hinged forward to access the battery switch.
My pickup hose is routed the same as yours. In that pic, the pickup was not hooked up and the strainer was turned toward the bow for access to something or another. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: MMT
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 6:12pm
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I'm glad you like the brown easter grass carpet. It is what was OEM in the boat. I really wanted something a little more modern looking, but just could find the right color so I went with OEM. I didn't like it at first, but it has really grown on me now, and I love it. It just has that nastolgic look. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5617&sort=&pagenum=1 - '81 Ski Tique |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: August-29-2011 at 6:17pm
Now you've got me scratching my head as well trying to come up with something that will work for our application. We've got a bench seat in that boat so it would have to open up towards the pylon and I'd have to find a way to make it water tight. All possible with enough cold beer!
I figured I would ask, mine is a pain in the a** to route since you have to go under the trans and then back over. Not the easiest hose to run, thought you might have come up with a better solution. ------------- |
Posted By: Jwbolton
Date Posted: September-27-2011 at 2:18pm
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what kind of wood did you use for the stringers? ------------- '72 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-27-2011 at 3:08pm
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Very impressive job, nice work.
I am a little curious though, why so much battery capacity? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2011 at 9:58pm
It looks like a generic pine was used for the secondary's but it's hard to tell on the primaries! It doesn't look look good old Doug Fir (recommended) It looks like Common SPF (spruce, pine, fir) which includes Hemlock which is a common construction grade lumber. I don't see any evidence of CPES!  !!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-28-2011 at 2:08pm
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Hey Kent, Looks like you left a space under the bulkhead in one of the above photos. Any reason for this? I guess if you didn't foam the area it would allow for the water to drain. I haven't seen that done before and was curious? ------------- |