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Refinishin wood swim platform

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20871
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 4:09pm


Topic: Refinishin wood swim platform
Posted By: jcow0714
Subject: Refinishin wood swim platform
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 10:12pm
This is a stupid easy question I just can't find the materials I need. The finish on my swim platform is chipping off and I'm looking to re-stain and re coat it. What material do you use to do this?? Its on an 82 2001



Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 10:25pm
Stain?

strip the stain and use teak oil.

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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 10:32pm
You dont want any finish on the platform. You need to remove any finish that is on there and apply several coats of teak oil as stated above. There are many threads on this topic. Use the search feature.








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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2011 at 10:58pm
John,
Follow the strip, clean and oil advice above. There are plenty of teak kits available at marine supplies. Also plenty of threads here on the process. Cleaning the teak is key then oil.

The PO of you boat did not do you any favors. You never want any "hard" finish on Teak.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: jcow0714
Date Posted: March-10-2011 at 2:21pm
ya the previous owner sealed it in a thin layer of something. which i guess is not right. i will use the teak oil and re-do his work. thanks for the help everyone.


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-10-2011 at 4:44pm
use some wire brush to remove the finish and then lots of teak oil...


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: March-13-2011 at 5:30pm
I baught this off craigs list for $10. turned out it was purchased for a CC that was sold. I hope it is still good.


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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: scottsims1
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 12:21pm
I used the same Watco and mine looks perfectly new. Also, not sure if someone else posted but I used my pressure sprayer and it required absolutely no scrubbing/stripping to get it down to the natural wood. Just make sure you spray it off a few times and get it real wet before you begin. Definately take the extra 5-10 minutes to take it off the back first. So much easier and cleaner than doing it while its on the back of your boat!


Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 2:16pm
Do you guys mess with the underside too or just leave it as is and worry about the top only? The underside of mine looks nasty and I want to do the whole thing all at once.

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'02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold
'87 Barefoot - sold
'97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon
'97 Ski Nautique
'83 SN 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 3:20pm
Bret,
To do a real good job, I suggest getting the wood off the boat. Unscrew it from the brackets then attack both sides.

Some will advise against it but I'm in favor of using a pressure washer with the cleaning/brightening process. It really gets down into the pores of the wood as well as between the slats. If you do use one, be very careful with the high pressure getting too close to the wood and tearing into the grain. Experiment on the back side.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 3:34pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Bret,
To do a real good job, I suggest getting the wood off the boat. Unscrew it from the brackets then attack both sides.

Some will advise against it but I'm in favor of using a pressure washer with the cleaning/brightening process. It really gets down into the pores of the wood as well as between the slats. If you do use one, be very careful with the high pressure getting too close to the wood and tearing into the grain. Experiment on the back side.


I am one of the ones Pete warned you about above ....

but..... If you do have the varnish, sealant or whatever the PO put on the platform, still adhered to many large areas of the platform, I am very OK with the use of the pressure washer. Some of those products are VERY hard to get off with other methods........ just be very careful and love your teak!


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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 4:26pm
Although my platform is not teak, I do prefer the hard finish.
Reason being, with outdoor storage and the constant battle with oiling.

Just one good coat of polyurethane lasts all season.
More than one coat makes it too slick, thus slipping and cracking an ankle.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 5:10pm
Buy a new one, the lazy way! This is the platform that was posted 2 weeks ago on here.



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Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: March-14-2011 at 9:55pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Bret,
To do a real good job, I suggest getting the wood off the boat. Unscrew it from the brackets then attack both sides.

Some will advise against it but I'm in favor of using a pressure washer with the cleaning/brightening process. It really gets down into the pores of the wood as well as between the slats. If you do use one, be very careful with the high pressure getting too close to the wood and tearing into the grain. Experiment on the back side.


Thanks Pete, I have the quick disconnect pins so removing will not be an issue. I also own a 2600psi pressure washer so I will go that route using one of the delicate tips to start and see how that goes. I've got a couple places where the wood is coming apart. The dowel rod in the center rear edge is gone and will need fixing. Also, was moored on the St. John's over Labor Day this past summer and one of the behemoth cruisers came by and ended up busting a couple screws out of the rear starboard side slats with his monster wake. I'd like to repair the original rather then get an aftermarket. It can be saved.   

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'02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold
'87 Barefoot - sold
'97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon
'97 Ski Nautique
'83 SN 2001


Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 5:24pm
John,

When I bought my '97 last year the guy had varnished the swim platform, gloss no less. He also top screwed to refasten it.

It took me several days to strip, sand, plug and refinish it.
Before

After


After it is stripped and prepped, all you will need is teak oil. I also use a 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper which supposedly helps the oil penetrate.

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1979 Ski Nautique (sold)

1997 Ski Nautique

1998 Super Sport Nautique


Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 6:16pm
Brad, looks beautiful! Nice work.

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'02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold
'87 Barefoot - sold
'97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon
'97 Ski Nautique
'83 SN 2001


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 8:05pm
Its funny how so many people do the same wrong thing. Seems perfectly logical to slap some polyurethane finish on there to protect it and make it look nice. Kind of like how lots of people assume that you should use treated lumber to make stringers.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Its funny how so many people do the same wrong thing. Seems perfectly logical to slap some polyurethane finish on there to protect it and make it look nice. Kind of like how lots of people assume that you should use treated lumber to make stringers.

Keegan,
It's good you didn't include everyone in the above group. To many like woodworkers and wooden boat owners, the above is not logical!

Also, people that do not know, should not be going into one of the home improvement places and be asking one of the sales “associates” advice!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 10:46pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Keegan,
It's good you didn't include everyone in the above group. To many like woodworkers and wooden boat owners, the above is not logical!

Also, people that do not know, should not be going into one of the home improvement places and be asking one of the sales “associates” advice!


Certainly not everyone but the average guy knows enough to think they know what they are doing. How many times have you been asked about treated lumber and seen a teak platform varnished? I have seen both questions several times so there is some misguided logic there driving people to those conclusions.

And the guys at bLowes... If you are relying on them to show you what to do you are truly misguided

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: March-16-2011 at 11:15pm



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66 Skylark
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN
If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out!


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: March-24-2011 at 4:00pm








Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: March-24-2011 at 4:45pm
wow, Doc that is much darker in color than what I'm use to seeing. Looks good.

I've been re-oiling mine for the last several weeks.Since i have it off of the boat right now, Ive been concetrating on the bottom side of the deck since it doesnt get much attention at other times. So far I have about 10 coats of oil on the bottom. Time to start the top now.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=4472" rel="nofollow - '89 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: jeffro28
Date Posted: April-01-2011 at 7:07pm

just finished mine today i think it looks good, i put on 3 coats

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-01-2011 at 7:32pm


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-01-2011 at 8:02pm
I put three coats of watco on mine 2 years ago, did not last that long, I have added a few more since but I am going to clean up and try for 6+ this spring.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 1:46am
So RJ, our resident Babe's rep, put me onto the Starbrite Teak Oil sealer after I noticed how good his platform looked. We were talking this weekend and his is going on year 5 and looks great, so I decided to go that route. Here are the pictures of the process.

The Start

Mine was varnished to start with so I dry sanded with 60, then 120 and finally 220:

Then washed with Murphy's Oil Soap:
Then let dry over night, applied Starbrite oil sealer, let dry for 2 or 3 days and then wet sanded with 220:

then a wash with Murphy's plus an overnight dry and then a second coat of Starbrite oil sealer:

Another 2 or 3 days of drying and then wet sanded with 400 and a wash with Murphy's, dry over night and then a final coat of oil sealer:

Here is a picture with out the flash:

And a picture of the Starbrite Oil Sealer:

RJ did 220 after his first coat, 400 after his second coat and 1000 after his third coat finishing with 4 coats. His platform is very slippery so, I stopped at 400 with 3 coats. We'll see how it holds up. The directions RJ sent me said to go all the way to 2000 sandpaper, for a furniture like finish. So if your going for looks and not functionality (read too slippery to stand on), then I guess you could take it that far... But for me with the kids, we'll see how this holds up.

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 3:07am
Looks really nice Steve

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 12:36pm
OMH, 3 coats probably wasn't enough. I wouldn't just shoot for a specific # of coats. Keep putting it on until it just won't take any more. I think I did about 7 coats, the last few I let dry for a week before adding more. It lasted pretty much all summer.

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Craig
67 SN
73 SN
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport
85SN


Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 5:47pm
Steve,
I'll be interested to see how the sealer holds up. I used the very same stuff last year and pretty much followed your steps. My results were not satisfactory, though i've heard of people who reported great results and liked the product.

I ended up using the Starbrite Cleaner (gel formula), and then brushing and sanding the stuff off. Took forever to get it off. My platform is finally starting to look good again with just cleaner, brightener and oil.

Again, Hope it works out better for you than it did for me. The pictures look nice

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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 6:05pm
Hey Steve, thats interesting. Like I said, RJ has had it on his platform and it looks good 4 years later (this will be year 5).

What did you not like about (what signs should I look for). You know the one thing it said you should do on the can, is cure it in the sun, which there is very little of that around here this time of year. So maybe I will wet sand and do one more coat on the next sunny day.

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Hey Steve, thats interesting. Like I said, RJ has had it on his platform and it looks good 4 years later (this will be year 5).

What did you not like about (what signs should I look for). You know the one thing it said you should do on the can, is cure it in the sun, which there is very little of that around here this time of year. So maybe I will wet sand and do one more coat on the next sunny day.


It gave my platform an artificial look. The color was too orange and didn't allow enough of the grain to show through. Admittedly, I did apply 2 or 3 coats of it b/c after the 1st and then 2nd coat I remember not being satisfied. I felt that another coat would maybe do the trick. The finish held up for 2-3 months before it started to wear/flake off in heavy traffic areas.

I wouldn't use it again, but if I did, I think I'd apply one coat and leave it alone to see how it held up with that one coat.

Like I said earlier, I've heard from many people that they had good results with it and I wish you well with it too. I could've very well used it wrong, but I'm not taking the chance again. Removing it from my platform was very tedious and took forever. I'm sticking with the tried and true despite the routine maintenance that it'll require.

My dad's thoughts on it...."don't they all look good when they're in the water?"



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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 6:46pm
It does have an orangish tint, I will admit that, but then when it was varnished, it had an orange tint too... The flaking is worrisome, so I will have to watch for that. When I wet it down to wet sand, it definitely beaded up. We'll have to see how it turns out.

Your Dad is 100% correct!

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:20pm
Steve,
There's a guy that was on the mastercraft site (handle was TMCNo1) who had a teak platform that was legendary with regards to the finish.   He had some instructions that were on that site that I followed.

They were almost identical to what you've posted about how you've done your platform. He used the same sealer and that's how I was turned on to it. He had great results and as I mentioned, everyone ranted and raved about how good his platform looked.

Nonetheless, mine didn't turn out the same. I've got it looking pretty good now. I'll try to take some pictures tonight after I apply the 3rd coat of oil and post here. I should've taken a before photo with the teak sealer on it so that you could appreciate the difference. Hindsight.

Anyway....good luck with it

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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:40pm
I've been on a few scary slick platforms, kind of kills the purpose of the thing. An oiled look that still feels like wood is best but what you're all saying fades the quickest? I've never oiled a platform, mine is almost as white as Pete's hair but sure looks great in the water!

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Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:47pm
Hollywood,
I couldn't agree more. For me though, when I walk by the boat during the off season or when I'm not on the water, the grey/white look just isn't appealing to me. Makes me feel like I need to do something about it. I read somewhere that teak will last the longest and be the most functional when nothing is done to it. You must be on to something.

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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:50pm
Oil it and figure out a way to keep it from baking in the sun. You just may spend less time and money doing that then stripping/sanding/sealing the thing over and over again.

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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 8:55pm
I wish I had not put that sealer on mine last year. I think I have gotten most of it off now. My plateform also looked Mustard colored.

Donald


Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 1:34am


I used some home made concoction that worked great. I can't remember what it was. I thought I got the recipe from CCF.com, but can't find it. I am thinking it was some BLEACH, and LIQUID LAUNDRY SOAP and scrub with STEEL WOOL, rinse and repeat. Then some Watco teak oil from Home Depot. It really soaked that up. Anyone know recipe, did I miss an ingredient? I want to help a buddy with his deck. It is a MC...so I could tell him to sand the crap out of it, then paint it with some latex, but that would be mean. Everything turned out great last fall. The proof will come when I drop her in the water.
Before

During

After (should have taken the shot outside in daylight)

A little shinny (probably soaked it up this winter), but you can still see the texture of the grain


Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 2:14am
http://www.bertram31.com/proj/deck/after.htm

I did find this site. He uses 2 quarts of ammonia and 1 cup of Wisk with a scotch brite pad ACROSS the grain. He is dealing with a 31 foot fishing boat, so pare the ratio down (16/1)? If my 5th grade math is correct, 8 cups to the quart?


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-10-2011 at 2:28am
Started the process today using a boat armour unique teak kit i mentioned earlier I found on craigslist. I first removed the platform with my nifty makita litium hammer driver. Here is a pic as I started with the first product. It is an acid wash, very little scrubbing. When I put it on the gray all turned black. After about ten minutes of sitting the black turned a deep brown.



After rinsing from the first step.



Second step is a brightner, applied with a sponge and then brushed,re-applied brushed...for about 15 minutes, till the color was realativly uniform. This is after rinsing, and my guess of what it will look like when done.



The kit does not mention sanding, I may hit it with 80 grit when it is dry, Then I will start coating with as many coats as it will take of the teak oil provided in the kit.




How did that get in there, Easter is coming soon. How did an ugly old guy like me have two such beautiful daughters, must be my wifes gene pool.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-10-2011 at 11:11am
Dave, looking good on the platform. Not as cute as those two little ones, but looking good!

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-10-2011 at 7:45pm
Here it is dry and guickly sanded with 80 grit.


and after 2 coats of oil. I could barely see a difference after it dried from the first coat.





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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: panda
Date Posted: April-13-2011 at 5:47pm
This thread is helpful to me, because I need to refinish my platamaform. The previous owner sealed my platform with something and the teak isn't able to breathe.

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95 Ski Nautique GT40


Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-14-2011 at 2:55am
I am up to five coats 1 day apart, the fourth soaked in but I felt like I was just pushing the 5th around on the surface, I am going to let it sit a week and try one more. I really like the color, even the one wierd blond board in the middle.



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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-14-2011 at 1:31pm
That does look nice. I read several posts here that recommend applying the Teak Oil on a warm day, in the sun. I guess the wood's pores will open up even more and soak up the good stuff. Might be a while before you have a 70 degree day in MN tho.


Posted By: mglines
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 2:26pm
I guess while I am doing other stuff to my boat I might as well redo the teak deck. When you take the deck off is it best to remove the deck with brakets from boat first? It looks like there is only 6 bolts(if i remember right) holding it on.




Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:17pm
Originally posted by mglines mglines wrote:

I guess while I am doing other stuff to my boat I might as well redo the teak deck. When you take the deck off is it best to remove the deck with brakets from boat first? It looks like there is only 6 bolts(if i remember right) holding it on.




Everything I read, said to take the deck off and to treat the bottom of the deck the same as the top. So I did slide the deck out of the brackets, then took the deck brackets (male) off and re-painted them. I even pulled the (female) brackets off of the boat and updated them. That way I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat. Took the opportunity to get new speedo pitot tubes from SKIDIM.com.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Tim,
You typed faster tan I did this time!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: mglines
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 4:03pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.


This is what I thought and why did not try to take the brakets off the boat. Thank you for this post.


Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Tim,
You typed faster tan I did this time!


I was curious about the two different types of hardware. I had lag bolts in the top holes and long wood screws in the bottom holes. You think the PO replaced the nut/bolt combo with lags?


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 6:20pm
Both my 82 and 83 had lags in the top and wood screw in the bottom.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 6:24pm
Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Both my 82 and 83 had lags in the top and wood screw in the bottom.

Fascinating. I believe Jimsport's Sport Nautique was the same.

Both my '79 and '90 had bolts on top, lags/screws on the bottom. I guess CC was inconsistent for several decades!

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Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 9:51pm
My 80 has lags on the top and wood screws on bottom


Posted By: malcolm2
Date Posted: April-22-2011 at 12:26am
Originally posted by mglines mglines wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.


This is what I thought and why did not try to take the brakets off the boat. Thank you for this post.


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.



Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:28am
Silicone does not belong below the waterline.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfXnXfXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- - 3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:42am
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfXnXfXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- - 3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: April-22-2011 at 1:56pm
4 Coats of Star Brite teak oil and 3 coats of Watco teak oil.



Posted By: sweet77
Date Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:24am


http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-GOLDEN-TEAK-OIL-PINT/dp/B0000C6F76 - Here Good Stuff

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5528&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 76 Nautique



"If you do what you always did,You'll get what you always got!"

"An empty wagon makes t


Posted By: sweet77
Date Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:32am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfXnXfXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- - 3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!




There are some types i dont mind

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5528&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 76 Nautique



"If you do what you always did,You'll get what you always got!"

"An empty wagon makes t


Posted By: sweet77
Date Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:34am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfXnXfXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- - 3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!




There are some types i dont mind

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5528&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 76 Nautique



"If you do what you always did,You'll get what you always got!"

"An empty wagon makes t


Posted By: 88 S NAUTIQUE
Date Posted: May-03-2011 at 10:16pm
If you put oo much oil on the platform and it is still sticky the next day, wipe it down with straight mineral spirits. Will dry with the nice unshiny yet smooth look you want. Went into panic mode when my platform was shiny and still sticky 24 hrs. later!

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Steve

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5247" rel="nofollow - 1988SkiNautique


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 1:04pm
Oil finishes were meant to be "Rubbed-In".


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

Oil finishes were meant to be "Rubbed-In".


Exactly, excess will simply not get absorbed and will gel on the surface.

Here's a trick that I may take some heat for but I cut my first 2 coats of oil with a little mineral spirits to make it thinner. I feel it penetrates the old wood deeper. After 2 coats I then apply oil straight from the bottle. I always brush on, wait 5 minutes, rub in. I try to go at least a few days and more when I have the time, between coats.


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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:01pm
Alan,
You won't get any heat from me!!! In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the first CPES was made by someone familiar with wood finishes and had done plenty of varnishing bright work!

BTW, tung oil and Teak oil finishes always state on the can that you do not leave any on the surface!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:19pm
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Pete, Don't know why I love coming back to this thread.


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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

   


Thanks Pete, Don't know why I love coming back to this thread.

[/QUOTE]

Now I see why this thread is still alive. There's just not much left to say about oiling yer teak...

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 3:23pm
Apparently I need to be more careful when browsing these forums at work...

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bring the ruckus
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

Apparently I need to be more careful when browsing these forums at work...


LMOA!!!!

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 5:43pm
Same here...Almost got busted.

Can I share my teak job?



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold)
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport
Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:17pm
Mike, you obviously have a better camera then me, but that color looks pretty close to mine. What product did you use?

Steve

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:22pm
Our platform was in pretty good shape, just dry. So...I just slapped some of this on it. (we have been using the same stuff for years) Love the color it brings. Coat two went on the top last night...not sure if it'll need another one or not.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold)
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport
Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:26pm
That makes sense, I used the Teak Oil Sealer from Starbrite, that must be why the color is similar.

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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:32pm
We used the sealer on the 90. Worked great for a long time but now it's starting to come up in a couple places, by come up I mean look patchy I guess. I'd love to strip it and re-teak oil it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold)
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport
Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:33pm
Ive actually found that the type of teak oil has very little effect on the platform color. Ive used Star Brite and Amazon and could not tell a difference. Ive even tried a magic blend of teak oil, boiled linseed oil and Automatic Transmission Fluid in an attempt to darken mine... and it didnt do a thing.

I think the color of your teak is the color of your teak, and theres little you can do to change it (at least by oiling it). Each platform will be slightly different. My '90 is very light in color, our BFN is very dark, and my dad's '03 is a medium orangy-red. We put the same oil on all of them.

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Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:45pm
Had a pair of my favorite Cypress Gardens Mustang combo skis in the ski locker of a buddy's sport. His tranny was leaking a smidge and the water/oil soaked my skis for a while without our knowledge. Best thing to ever happen to the skis. They look new and are super waterproof lol

Oh and the boats fixed too.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold)
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport
Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-04-2011 at 9:07pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Ive actually found that the type of teak oil has very little effect on the platform color. Ive used Star Brite and Amazon and could not tell a difference.

I think the color of your teak is the color of your teak, and theres little you can do to change it (at least by oiling it). Each platform will be slightly different. My '90 is very light in color, our BFN is very dark, and my dad's '03 is a medium orangy-red. We put the same oil on all of them.

Tim,
West brand does have a "dark" version. I have a bottle of it and it does darken the Teak. This is good especially if you have gone through the complete cleaning process which includes the "brightener". Also, aniline dye powders for oil based finishes are available for tinting. http://woodworker.com/o-s-gold-yel-oak-aniline-dye-mssu-846-444.asp?search=aniline%20dye%20powder&searchmode=2 - Aniline dye powder at Woodworker supply

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: NC_Tique
Date Posted: May-15-2011 at 12:15am
I just put one full coat on mine today. A pressure washer was my choice of cleaning. I put it in the sun today and it soaked up a 1/3 a bottle or starbite teak oil. Mine looks dark but lighten up as it dried.

It is going to look sweet on the boat. I'm ready for the water!!!


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-30-2011 at 2:53pm
been working on my platform while I find the time to fix the prop and shaft..
Its been cold, rainy and windy..normal fall weather..so i´m not in a hurry to have the boat in the water...





Total of 5 coats on each side...


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-06-2011 at 3:55pm



I used the starbrite teak oil restoration kit and it worked awesome. You should have seen the dirt and filth coming off after I used the cleaning step. It really brought it back to life but I used the whole bottle of teak oil and had to buy another, a total of 6 coats. Its been holding for a few weeks. I will probably give it one more again before I take it out.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-08-2011 at 2:00am
I just put on coat # 7 My question is can I coat it once a month till I put the boat away in the fall? If I follow this schedule can I just maintain it and never have to clean it again?

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: Polar Express
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 11:49pm
Thanks for all the pics and specific product results. Wish I found this thread a few weeks ago. I used the Te-Ka brand stripper and brightener, and I LOVED how that worked. The problem is that I chose the Daily's hard-drying teak oil. While it looks just gorgeous in the garage, I do fear it's going to lift and such over the season. I'm not planning on stripping it off for this season (yet) but even before finding this forum and thread, after seeing the completed result, I was wishing I had chosen a true 'oil'. I could certainly see a use for the Daily's product (I'm not ripping it) just not for a swim step.

Also, my swim step is the more trapezoid shape, with no open slots in it, and the underside is separating and cracking. I actually expect to have to rebuild it soon, maybe this coming winter.

Live and learn,

PE

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1996 Sport Nautique



This is America, if you don't like it, go conquer another country, and start your own.

I'll keep my God, my guns and my freedom, Barry can keep his 'change'



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