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exhost manafold

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20977
Printed Date: September-27-2024 at 4:10pm


Topic: exhost manafold
Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Subject: exhost manafold
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 12:21am
started the mustang for the first time today and fond out i had a lot of leeks. any sug on were to get parts? 1968 mustang with 289



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 12:12pm
Originally posted by Candlwoodsteve Candlwoodsteve wrote:

started the mustang for the first time today and fond out i had a lot of leeks. any sug on were to get parts? 1968 mustang with 289

Steve,
Since the title of this is exhaust manifold, I assume that's what's leaking but where? Water? Exhaust? External? Internal? At the elbow? At the block? We really need more info!!

BTW, do you have spell check on your computer?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 1:24pm
i am sorry for not being more clear. on the port side i have two leaks. one is at the drane plug, i have taped the hole with 1/8 pipe thread and put a new plug in but their just isnt enough thread to seal. i also have a leak were the elboe meets the riser. if you look on my profile pic u can see a bult was installed throw the risser and elbow to hold a seal. this was done by preveis owner and i do not wish to keep the boat with micky mouse repairs. i would like to replace the complete exhost manfold from the head to the exhost. i am very greatfull for any imput.


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 1:29pm
dont know were spell check is and relize i need it sory about that. i work with my hands and dont know a lot about computers. i will try to figure it out.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 3:20pm
Steve,
If the boss around the 1/8" NPT is large enough, you can drill an tap to 1/4" NPT. Always use brass pipe plugs.

With the gasket between the manifold and riser, you're going to have to open it up, clean up the mating surfaces (if real bad machining may be needed), make a gasket and put it back together.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 4:21pm
well thank you for your impute but unfortunately i have more problems today. i started the motor so that a friend could hear how good it sounded and i think i thrown a rod! there was a load bang and the motor seized up. i guess i should have not taken the sellers word on how good the boat ran. buyer beware! i don't regret buying the boat because i have always wanted one and restoring it is must the fun for me anyway. one way to look at it is now it will be easy to paint under engine. lol


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 6:53pm
Sorry to hear about your motor.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-19-2011 at 7:00pm
Steve,
When it started, did it run for any length of time or did it lock up right away? If it locked up immediately and considering your leaking manifolds, there's a chance it hydro locked. (water getting into one or more cylinders)

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 12:43am
you are right that is what happened! i have to admit i made a large mistake that i can only say i wont do again! i didn't see leaving the watter on while i tried to get boat started a problem. i thought the watter just went through the coolant part of the motor and out the exhaust. i have only owned outboards and io's and never had this problem.
i pulled the plugs out and drained the oil and watter.one of the plugs were broke so things don't look good! i turned the motor over and only heard a slight knock that could, only be a lifter but i no it is wishful thinking.i had to take a break because i just cant take anymore bad news especially when i am creating all of it. tomorrow i will do a compression test. i am also worried about a leak that is located under the watter pump and at oil pan.that leak was not their before i hydrolocked it.
desperately need impute. wish i asked about running watter without starting engine but this morning i would have thought that was silly!
thanks for letting me vent.


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-20-2011 at 3:53am
How's the boat positioned now? could it be that you havean internal leak at the exhaust manifold or that not all water is leaving the exhaust line (if the bow is bow down for example) and flushed back into the exhaust chamber and then into the cylinders.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 3:15pm
i guess that is possible.


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 10:50pm
what cylinders had water in?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 11:12pm
all of them i think? pulling the motor tomorrow. have no compression.i am not sure what happen and at this point the only thing i can do is hope the block is OK.


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 11:21pm
did you take the spark plugs out and crank it without them?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 11:31pm
yes and i did a compression test and fond 3 bad. looking forward to taking eng out so i can inspect. this will give me a idea where i am at. one of my plugs looked like it was hit with a hammer so iam sure the motor needs to come out to be fixed and at this point it douse not matter what happen. i am sick to my stomach about it and not having any fun.


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 11:35pm
good luck, keep us posted

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: March-21-2011 at 11:37pm
thanks.


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 1:52pm
i found a broken valve,piston and block.i am working with a local shop to rebuild engine.things dont look good for this season.i need to save some money for repairs.i plan on taking my time and redo the floors while waiting for engine. i did find a 289 block that is in good shape. my crank is good but i need a new cam and lifters.i also need a carb. the one that was on the boat is for auto use so i will not be installing it. thanks for all the info i am greatfull for all the help.i will repost when i get the money together to continue with this prodject.


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:15pm
Steve,
E-mail me I might have some of the componets you are looking for at a very reasonable price.
floridainboards at msn dot com

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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 10:58am
the only difference in the carb setups are the J tubes for the vents. The auto versions have straight tubes instead. You can should be able to get the correct vent tubes at Skidim and reuse the carb.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0127

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 11:54am
Originally posted by Chris4x4gill2 Chris4x4gill2 wrote:

the only difference in the carb setups are the J tubes for the vents.

I do not believe that to be true. The throttle shafts are also sealed on a marine carb. There may be other things as well. It is not a straightforward conversion.

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Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 12:29pm
Thank u Tim. I would like to ask u for a favor could u come to Brookfield and take a look at my floors with me? Stringers look good and I was thinking of glassing over everything but would love to hear from u that I am doing the right thing. I want to do a nice job and not sure how to go about it. If u wanted too I could bring boat to u. Thanks my number is still 203 559 4169


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 2:58pm
Steve, email sent.

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Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Steve, email sent.


Thats what is so dang cool about this site! Tim will get you set right! Good luck with your motor. I was in the same position last year with my 302. Just got it back from the machine shop today. After new heads, Cam and intake plus some misc parts, I should be ready for summer!

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Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 9:01pm
Ya I am looking foward to meeting Tim and I also think this site is cool.if u r a fan of cc this is the place to be!


Posted By: Gray1q1
Date Posted: April-08-2011 at 9:57am
Yes you are right
good post


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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2011 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by Gray1q1 Gray1q1 wrote:

Yes you are right
good post

Reported as spam

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: April-09-2011 at 1:03am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Chris4x4gill2 Chris4x4gill2 wrote:

the only difference in the carb setups are the J tubes for the vents.

I do not believe that to be true. The throttle shafts are also sealed on a marine carb. There may be other things as well. It is not a straightforward conversion.




It depends on the year really.

But typically, adding J tubes and the sealed throttle shafts along with non externally adjustable floats are the real parts that make a marine carb. The PV and other parts might be different depending on a lot of factors, but the things I mentioned are the big things.

The bad part is that the base plate that has the throttle shafts is very pricey, and hard to buy except for when it's part of a full marine carb.

You can always take a carb body and make it marine safe, but by the time you end up with all the parts, you might be better off buying a new marine carb.



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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-09-2011 at 1:06am
Tim while your over there,splash me a copy of that console

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Candlwoodsteve
Date Posted: April-09-2011 at 11:01am
I haven't forgotin u Gary and I promos I will send pic. I haven't taken console out yet will try to do this weekend.the bad engine has got me sidetracked .sorry for the delay.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-09-2011 at 12:28pm
Im just messing with Tim,Steve. There is really no hurry.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport



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