Y Block Question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21143
Printed Date: September-25-2024 at 9:02am
Topic: Y Block Question
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Subject: Y Block Question
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 2:11am
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I am having a '63 Y block 292 right hand rotation,(185 Interceptor),machined for rebuild and a question has come up about the camshaft assembly. Should there be a separate spacer between the cam gear and the face of the block like the standard rotation version? It appears that the cam gear on the RH version has a spacer that is part of the gear itself. The separate spacer was in place when I disassembled the block and I found 2 lifters were broken with noticeable wear on the sides of the lobes of the cam, like the lifters had been hitting them. I'm just guessing that it was assembled improperly when the short block was replaced with a remanufatured one sometime in it's life. The Interceptor manual that I have does not go into much detail on the RH versions and I have yet to find any diagrams on it. Any insight on this would be welcomed.
Jeff |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 10:07am
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Jeff,
I wish I could give you a definite answer but as you mentioned there's not much info around on the RH conversions. The important step here will be to check the end play on the cam when you are putting the engine together. The end play spec should be in the book. I'll take a look in mine too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 10:33am
| Thanks for the reply, I will be checking the endplay for sure. Should have the block back next week so I can start the reassembly. I plan on using the Alpine green for color, noticed some posts saying that is the easy way out, and others that say it is the correct color. Any thoughts? |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-02-2011 at 10:44am
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Try this guy. He knows Y blocks and likes CCF.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20349&title=interceptor-marine-engines - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20349&title=interceptor-marine-engines I think the alpine green is a bit bright, but seems to be the closest for off the shelf paint. ------------- |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 3:33am
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Thanks for the info and link Riley, I had seen The Engine Room info from searching the archives and plan on giving him a call about this and the manifold I need.
Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 10:51am
I agree and feel there's too much green. The closest color match I've ever seen is on Reid's 390 he did and then all the Hilpsches's Y blocks they restore for their Century's ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Riley wrote:Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 11:39am
Here a pic of alpine green on our 6 as compared to Reid's custom match. I think Reid's color is much better, too.
Pete, I can't find my pic of Hilpsih's engine, but it looks like baby blue and not green. I've been told the early Intercepors were that light blue color. Ever seen one? ------------- |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 12:31pm
I do like the lighter green/blue, unfortunately I already had Grant Young paint my YH Carter side drafts Alpine Green when he refurbed them, even though most I have seen are not painted at all after rebuild. The ones I have were painted originally with the Interceptor green so I opted to go back with it. I saved a pic of Hilpisch's 312 Interceptor and it is definitely a masterpiece. Hopefully he does not mind me posting the pic here.
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 1:37pm
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I do not think your YH Carters were painted from Intercepter, rather zinc chromate for corrosion resistance. I have several engines and a bucket full of spares acquired over time , and none were painted. JMHO tho.
Steve has supplied me with several sets of decals for my resto,s and tho pricey, well worth the cost. The paint chip he supplied was a very close match to the Alpine Green, tho not exact. I do not think there is any OEM left to match, only 40 year old examples, not sure which is correct? I have not been called out on my engine color, the judges did not mention it at Mt Dora 
Some here tend to anal about some resto,s and the miss the "big" picture" enjoy your boat. I tend to err more towards safety and combining this with more boating time than finding the exact color of the engine.....But what do I know?????????????/ ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 2:03pm
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Bruce,
I don't feel you could really call the color a baby blue. I Think alot has to do with the color over the internet. Some of the Hilpsih's pictures are darker and I know they have been using the same paint on all their restores. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 2:28pm
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I think I agree about the "color over internet" issue. Here is a pic of the YH Carbs that I started with, it looks like they were painted on the tops but were zinc chromate on the bottom. I know for sure they had never been broken into per Wolf Enterprises,(rebuilder), so I assumed they were 100% original, but I guess they could have been freshened with a top coat at some time. I will probably proceed with the Alpine Green since it is readily available and a "pretty close" match. Thanks for all the info everyone is posting!
Jeff  
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 3:06pm
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Jeff,
I'd agree that the carbs from interceptor would have been painted.As with all marinizers of engines, very little would be masked off and the completed engine got a overall coat of paint - including hoses!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 7:25pm
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Pete , one set came off a Grey the center section is painted RED, copper fuel lines,the throttle body and bowls are still ZC, and the set off my 312 that were also coated. One of those carb bases is on my motor now...JMO.....But I must be mistaken.........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-03-2011 at 11:49pm
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Over the years, Intercepor green probably varied some from batch to batch. Hard to tell when your looking at an 55 yo engine that is partly rusty and looks like it was never touched, but it could have been repainted 40 years ago, so who would know? And maybe some had the carbs painted and others didn't. There was probably some inconsistency at the factory. Alpine green was fairly close to the oil fill on the valve cover of our 6 that had been hidden under the breather, but it still looks pretty bright to me.
My guess is this engine was never repainted. Its carb was not painted that I could tell. Hoses are painted like Pete says.  ------------- |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 12:51am
This is the original color of the 312 Interceptor from Dad's 63 Nautique. It has been in my family since it came from the manufacturers rep. Shows some wear and you do have the digitilization, camera influence and lighting that are going to vary the shade, but I can vouch that it has never been repainted. Also notice that the flame arrestors received paint but not the carbs, hmmm odd. Also notice it did not get the "interceptor by Correct Craft" stickets on the valve covers. Finally the "215 HP" decal used to be on the intake at the top of the picture (have to get a new one of those). Oh, and I have also noticed that red background with yellow text for the inspection decal on the lower side of the manifold is also different then what others have shown. Just variations in manufacturing process for no rhyme or reason that probably wouldn't be tolerated today... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 1:05am
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[QUOTE=skutsch]
Also notice it did not get the "interceptor by Correct Craft" stickets on the valve covers. Skutch, those decals were not OEM. Those were a special order....Roger [uk1979] and I have them on our 312s ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 1:16am
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Wow! I sure like all the pics and input on the old Y Blocks. I am saving all this info so I can get the build correct. I'm sure there were variations through the years on paint and other things as well. I appreciate all the comments and pictures and will take it all into consideration when reassembling mine. Still looking for a replacement manifold that I see in some of those pics, will give Jim a call over at the engine room tomorrow, thanks again.
Jeff |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 10:08am
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Skutch, Great picture! Not too many engines still around like that! I like the OEM painted valve covers. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 11:48am
Another Y block with original paint and painted valve covers:
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 11:54am
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That's a beauti, too Pete. And it's got painted carbs! Your color looks the same as Skutch's. ------------- |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 5:09pm
Billy - thats interesting, I thought I had seen some other engines with an "interceptor by correct craft" tag on the valve covers. here is the link: 
Of course that picture is a 427, not a 312, so maybe they put that sticker on the big blocks... And it doesn't have manifolds with "interceptor" cast into them, so maybe that is the difference. I love trying to figure out what these old companies were thinking! Bruce, thanks for compliments. The boat is my Dad's pride an joy, it was a work horse, but we also were required to spend the time taking care of it too. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-04-2011 at 5:56pm
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Steve, that decal is custom, also. That is a late model Interceptor engine, about 1967 or 1968. A Correct Craft with that generation engine would have just had a black and chrome decal that said Interceptor. Century, Lyman and Trojan of that vintage had custom decals. Don't know why Correct Craft didn't have them, other than extra cost. Reid's FE above sports one also. ------------- |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 12:57am
| So were all the original Interceptor valve covers painted? Mine appear to have been painted silver at one time and still has the chrome oil fill cap but I do not see any sign of them ever being completely chrome. I have been looking for a new set of chrome ones with the oil fill but no luck yet so I was thinking of having mine restored and plated. |
Posted By: wingwrench
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:21am
| Mine were painted and the original paint on my engine is a pretty close match to the Alpine green. Carb was painted a off white first then the green, nothing else on the engine had the white on it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 9:33am
Valve covers were painted.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 9:47am
| I guess when you posted that Pete I was not thinking about the valve covers, but that works for me, paint it is. Thanks. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 9:48am
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All the old engines that I've seen have had painted valve covers, but one of my manuals has an option page that I think listed chrome valve covers as an option.
J. Williams, I don't know how you made out with Jim, but one of my manuals shows all the parts for the cam shaft assembly and briefly states where they go. Send me your email address through the site and I can scan those pages for you, if you want them. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 11:54am
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Bruce, my '55 has chrome covers as well as the engine I built and shipped to England for Roger. So they are out there.
There is an easier cheaper way than restoring your old ones. My quote to refinish and plate 150.00 per cover..Thats too stout for me.....Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 1:06pm
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I had my manuals confused. Chrome valve covers are listed for the FE engines. My Y block manual does not list any valve covers for the Engine Block and Head section, so the page maybe missing. Interestingly, they list the same set of heads for all the Y blocks, 256 through 312. I think you can buy new chrome valve covers on ebay for $30-$40. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:09pm
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Bruce, good call, BUT, how do you add oil????
There is no filler cap on the auto valve covers. Wanna know how I did it???? ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:15pm
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Sure, I figured they made them with holes also, as that's what ours has, one for the pcv valve and one for the oil. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:22pm
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Look closely at the VC on E Bay. No holes.....
Intercepter had their own VC , most were painted, but a very few were chrome... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:39pm
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I guess I never paid that close attention as we didn't need them. The FE covers on ebay don't have holes either, but I was able to find some nice ones that did. There's a lot of after market stuff out there. ------------- |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 12:44am
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Billy,
Since you built the 312 that went to England, can you answer my original question in this thread? Should there be an additional spacer between the cam gear and block on a RH rotation 292,(312 in your case)? I checked the video again on YouTube, (sounds great by the way), and it does appear to be a RH engine. Jeff |
Posted By: wingwrench
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 2:30pm
On my 256 there is a plate attached to the block with 2 bolts between the cam gear and block. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 4:23pm
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wing, give me a call at the shop anytime.........1-318-386-2825
I am no expert by any means on the Y Block, but this is not my first rodeo either........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-14-2011 at 10:22am
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Just wanted to update everyone on this post, the answer on the additional spacer is that there should only be one spacer between the cam gear and face of the block. In some cases the spacer is integrated into the cam gear and in others it is not. I found out this is the case on RH and standard rotation y blocks. The separate spacer I found during disassembly that was in place between the gear and block was actually supposed to be between the fuel pump eccentric and cam gear and after doing this I now have .002-.003 endplay in the cam as it should be. I will post some pics soon of the progress on this rebuild and I want to thank everyone for their help including Jim over at "The Engine Room" and Billy down in Louisiana for taking the time to speak with me on the phone.
Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-14-2011 at 10:34am
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Jeff,
I'm happy to hear the good news. I knew you'd get the help needed and would find the solution when checking the end play during assembly. The info will sure help when the day comes I need to open mine up!! So, evidently a PO put it together wrong!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-18-2011 at 10:11am
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Quick update on my build. Short block almost together, found out the crank oil seal on the timing cover is not the same as an automotive seal for the same engine. Not sure why the Interceptor folks would have done that, naturally it's not a stock item in the parts store either so it is coming in from the store warehouse today. Here are a couple pics, hopefully I got the timing marks right when I indexed the gears, all my manual showed on the RH version is just that, "index the gears", no pictures.
Jeff  
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-18-2011 at 1:10pm
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Jeff , there was an issue w/high water temp at idle . It is an easy fix fix while the engine is at this stage. Give me a call and I will share what I did on the last three I have built..........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: April-18-2011 at 11:23pm
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I'll give you a call if I get chance tomorrow Billy. Just for future reference the replacement oil seal is a National seal #472164, it fit like a glove.
Jeff |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 10:50am
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Making some progress on re-assembling the engine but I have hit another snag. Does the screen for the crankcase ventilation in the valley pan under the carbs go aft or forward? I assumed it would go aft for any excess fuel to drain but I am questioning that now after looking at the pics that were taken before I took the assembly apart to blast and paint it. There is an 1/8" vacuum tubing on the one airhorn that is closed off on the bottom and from the pics I have that airhorn is over the screen in the valley, but it is possible this was changed at some time before I got it. I looked at some pics that have been posted here of some original set ups and the air horn with the vacuum tube is aft. Anyone know how it should be?
Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 3:14pm
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Jeff,
I was hoping Billy would spot your question and respond. He's the one who's recently had a couple Y's apart. I've never dug into mine that far however, I do feel the screen goes aft as well as the carb horn that's open. I'm going to take a look in my manual when I get home. I took a look at the one here in the reference section but it doesn't go into detail on the parts. Mine does. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: uk 1979 part2
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:52pm
He has Pete, then rang me to post a picture,have tried to split my post with a new name "Boat,Doc's Yard Boy" as I'm out of down load space. It is set to the back see picture,  ------------- lets have a go 2 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 8:09pm
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Roger,
I talked with him today as well. Sounds like he may be literally knee deep in whatever comes down that river if the levee doesn't hold!! Jeff, I looked in my manual at the different carb/valley pans/horns/etc. Regrettably, the pictures do not show forward or aft!! However, I still say the pan vent and the carb horn that has the vented bottom, should go aft. It's the aft carb that will puke gas if there are problems! BTW, mine has never done it to my knowledge. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: uk 1979 part2
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 9:32pm
Billy and Karen will be in my thoughts and pray it all holds up......but you know Billy he said well if we flood I build a new house....  that's the sprite that built America.------------- lets have a go 2 |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 11:01pm
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The river level as we speak is at 56.98 or 57 feet msl. My house is less than 10 miles from the Mississippi River, it sits at 56 msl. The river is expected to crest at Natchez Mississippi on the 21st at 64 msl.
Not real good in math during school , but I think my shop will get wet if that levee dont hold...........8 to 10 feet over the entire parish is what The Corps predict.... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 3:11am
I am getting very close to completeing my rebuild on the 185 Interceptor. I am now trying to figure out what the original set up was on the alternator. I am fairly certain the alternator I have is original, a prestolite in the original Interceptor color, but I am questioning the long bolt spacer set up. The pic below shows how it came to me, there is a long spacer to the rear that does not seem to accomplish anything and I was wondering if maybe there was some sort of bracket that went from the block to the end of that spacer originally as the alternator seems to give too much when I apply tension on the belt and the pulley is not exactly lined up with the others. Also, in the pic is a bracket that was used to hold the voltage regulator and starter relay, questioning whether this was original or not, seems sort of strange to me. After I get these things figured out it will come off the stand and will get the bellhousing and tranny installed. I was holding off on shooting any additional pics until I got the new decals on it, planning on doing that tomorrow.
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Posted By: wingwrench
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:55am
Here is what mine used.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:09am
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I think you're missing the bracket (arm) that bolts onto the exhaust manifold.
I don't feel the regulator and relay bracket are original. Both would have been on a plate on the aft end of the engine above the bell housing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 11:02am
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Thanks for the pic and replys, on the later models with an alternator the adjuster bracket appears to go to the timing cover instead of the exhaust manifold like the earlier generator types, and I have that bracket in place. After looking at the pic from wingwrench there is definitely a bracket to the rear of the long spacer that bolts to the block. I guess during the previous rebuild on this engine they decided it was not needed but I believe it will force the pulley to line up and also make the mount more solid, now all I have to do is find or fabricate one. Off to the shop before it hits 109 again today. Thanks again for the help.
Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 11:57am
Jeff, My 312 with the alternator has the bracket to the exhaust manifold. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 4:51pm
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Thanks for the info Pete, I guess it's possible they used a different bracket on mine when they did the rest of the work to it. I was going on the pic Skutsch had posted with his all original '63 312 which is also the pic I used to duplicate the air horn arrangement with the vented one to the front and the one with the vacuum line to the rear and also fabricated the lifting strap between the manifold bolts. Here is how everything turned out in the pics below. I will now get it off the lift so I can finsh the rest of the assembly.
Jeff 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 5:12pm
Is that Alpine Green? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 8:08pm
Yes, it is Alpine Green. Here are a few more pics, I went ahead and fabricated a bracket to hold the alternator like it is supposed to be. Maybe by next weekend I can get it off the lift and mount the bellhousing with the starter so I can get it running, getting anxious to hear it run.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 8:33pm
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J.
It looks great but I'm disappointed on the color. Reid got it the closest even though it could be a little darker - however, colors don't always come through correctly on the net. 
Did you get the decals from the Steve(s) Hilpisch's? Bruce and Steve, Alpine green is NOT correct!!  
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:15pm
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Looks great Jeff nice job ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: wingwrench
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:49pm
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Looks great Jeff.
Pete, Alpine Green was a perfect match to the original color on my engine. I found 3 layers of greens when I bead blasted the engine, all different. I matched the first layer. If it isn't correct what is the correct color number? Jack |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:34pm
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Thanks for the comments. I agree Pete, the Alpine green did not match the original color that I bead blasted off. There does seem to be several variations of the original color out there on engines that supposedly have never been touched. On mine it was lighter with more blue in it, almost like sky blue with a hint of green. Anyway, mine has obviously been redone and the color works for me as far as an "off the shelf" paint goes. The decals did come from Steve Hilpisch, he also confirmed the air horn question for me.
Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:53pm
Jack, Then a PO has been in there before you!!!
Jack. You are not keeping it as original as I'd like you to be! You need to do more RESEARCH!!  Did you even use the search feature on the site to see what the color should be?????? No one to date has come up with a "color number". In today's state of technology, it's not even needed!!! It's called "color scanning!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 12:36am
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Jeff that thing looks fantastic. Great job right down the hose clamps. Iit looks every bit as good as the Hilpshes. ------------- |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 1:08am
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Thanks Riley, I think the debate over original color will rage on forever. I researched this site and others on correct color and found a multitude of answers, so I admit it, I took the easy way out. Now all I need is my hull back so I can put it back in. I'm afraid I may have made a mistake with the shop that has it, he has yet to start any body work. But yet I cannot imagine why, it was 111 degrees here today and his shop is not air-conditioned. Thanks again.
Jeff |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:49am
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Jeff, Pete is correct on this subject. The use of any other shade than OEM will cause problems.
I wonder if the poor fuel mileage could a result of the Alpine Green I used to paint mine.I will post pics later of internal damage also caused by " killer paint". Jeff beware of the Alpine Green, its only cheap when ya buy it.... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 7:50am
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Real nice Job Jeff ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 9:59am
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Our mustang came with an order sheet from interceptor that had different stuff you could order including a spray can of touch up paint. Somewhere there's a can sitting in someones garage...
Jeff, what year/model century? ------------- |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:23am
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I don't care what color it is that is a very nice job of detailing. Your should be proud.
Pete, I painted the Hemi yesterday but I'm going to make you wait for pictures. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:33am
Now that's some funny stuff right there!
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Posted By: Inboard Fanatic
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:36am
Actually it's a different make, I posted about it in the "off topic" section a few weeks ago, Glastron Saberflite. Jeff |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 1:35pm
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I remember now. That's a great project. I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as it progresses.
Did you use Dupli Color? ------------- |
Posted By: uk 1979 part2
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 1:47pm
Jeff, Fresh info from the Boat Dr, be careful as if the wrong pigment combo is used on a Y Blocks over time will weaken the metallurgy and course major failure but even with this damage was able to chug back 6 miles to the dock, always keep it original like Pete said
 ------------- lets have a go 2 |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 1:59pm
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What color caused that? Hope it wasn't Dupli color.
Our Y block project has been on hold for the last 1 1/2 years, but we broke it out yesterday and it was running good. Those engines sound so good whether idling or cruising along. Ours was pushing the Classic 45.1 gps, which is a few mph faster than I expected. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:28pm
I want to know what Billy did with the center main cap. I didn't see if he found it in the pan or not. It's got to be there!!! I can sure see why the crank snapped with it missing!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:34pm
What are these photos of?
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:39pm
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Pete, the main cap was removed to show the extent of the damage .
Bruce, the engine is a 312 in my Starflite. ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:45pm
Got it! I have never heard of a history with "Y"'s breaking cranks. Have you? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:54pm
Ugh! What caused that? We ran ours hard yesterday for the first time and I had my fingers crossed the whole time hoping it was going to stay together. That sucks. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 9:00pm
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I just finished a very lengthy conversation with Billy. After he consulted with John Mummert who is without a doubt the Y block expert (75 years old and knows his stuff), we have all concluded it is defiantly the bad choice of paint. With the wrong color, and with even a small amount of UV light, there's a chemical reaction that sucks all the nickel and steel out of the castings. This even goes though the mains and into the crank. It's the steel and nickel content that gives a casting it's strength. What's left is basically carbon which is very brittle.
EDIT: ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 9:17pm
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I guess the next one will be red.
What would cause such a failure. Too much power for an old crank? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 9:51pm
There are "Y"'s running with blowers without problems but, according to John, there was a era when Mercury {who was building the 292's at the time} did have casting problems. Billy correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you tell me you used a 292 crank that did come from the Mercury crank problem era? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 10:13pm
You would think they would have all broke by now. I didn't realize 312's and 292's used the same cranks. Aren't the strokes different? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 10:36pm
Looking at the "Y" block manual, it does look like they lengthened the stroke on the 312 from the 292 by .14" but the bore as well. We'll see what Billy comes back with as far as the info on what he used for a crank. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-29-2011 at 1:18am
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It appears there was a new short block purchased in 1964 for this boat, original motor puked #7 rod , damaging the alum. oil pan .There is a small repair on the flange. It is indeed a 312, w/ FoMoCo std. rods and mains. There were some issues, I was told, with the older castings, so maybe this unit being new in '64 could well be in that time frame.
There are only about 40 hours on this engine,very pleased with the power and performace the 215 hp provides. I am building a 292 to swap for the rest of the summer,this is a parts and pieces motor, a little time and we will see if it will live, This wooden boat stuff sometimes sucks,,,,,,,, ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-29-2011 at 1:22am
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[QUOTE=Riley] I guess the next one will be red.
QUOTE]  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-29-2011 at 1:32am
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Pete the 312 block is a one off, as is the crank.The compression increase is a result of the shorter deck height, and increas in bore and stroke.
Also found there are as many hidden ponies in a 292 as in a 312, over bore to .125 safely......lets see what happens come winter, ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |