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Engine Won't Idle After 45 Minutes

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21192
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 6:35am


Topic: Engine Won't Idle After 45 Minutes
Posted By: Bosch232
Subject: Engine Won't Idle After 45 Minutes
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 4:32pm
        1989 Nuatique 2001
          Motor: Pleasure Craft Marine
          Type:   351
          Model: PLD-PR-R12
          Carb: Holley 4 barrel (dont know the model number)
          Motor hrs: less than 400

Issues: Starts and runs fine after first starting. Ski for awhile (approx. 45 mins.) and eventually when at idle the motor will chug and then stop. It starts back up but you have to idle at much higher RPM to keep engine running. Once it is time to ski and you take it out of neutral you have to quickly put it in gear and start pushing the throttle up or it will stall.

A carb rebuild is in the works, but the puzzling thing is that it's fine for the first 45 minutes or so. Suggestions & Ideas welcome.



Replies:
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 4:45pm
Could be a few things like your Idle is too low, weak battery, choke acting up, corroded wire ends

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1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang
Harris Float
Sunfish


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 5:42pm
is there black stuff in the exhaust, this will indicate a rich mixture. A sticking float will dribble fuel at idle that will cause the issue you speak of....

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-06-2011 at 6:03pm
More thank likely, its carb related- but I wouldnt rule out a vacuum leak either.

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-07-2011 at 7:53pm
I would definetely look for a vacuum leak...I had this also..cold it would idle fine..once it got to running TÂș it would stall, or need to move the screws to get it running etc...I had a leak between carb base and manifold...due I had changed the stock one for a performer....


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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: April-08-2011 at 3:14am
I have a VERY SIMILAR problem, it depends on the ambient temperature the higer it is the sooner it will usually come about. I was entertaining the idea that it may be the ethanol gas to get starting to it , I put sea foam in it last go around so we will find out this weekend if that helps. I am about ready to just put a new carb on it. I hate throwing new parts at it but i know it one of those things that get aggrivating.

Mine had a carb rebuild last year...no black in my exhaust and plugs look like a good burn. I have 2 optimas on mine and new cables we should have plenty of juice.

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1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee


Posted By: adamt
Date Posted: April-08-2011 at 5:06am


Ross, what lake do you go out on?

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-Adam

1973 Skier


Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: April-08-2011 at 12:11pm
conway, st johns river, wp chain, winter haven chain, clermont chain, butler chain, Lake weir, pretty much anywhere I can get it off the trailer I'll go, I have 4x4 and a winch so no problems getting out.

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1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee


Posted By: Rick_E
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 1:00am
Originally posted by Bosch232 Bosch232 wrote:

Issues: Starts and runs fine after first starting. Ski for awhile (approx. 45 mins.) and eventually when at idle the motor will chug and then stop. It starts back up but you have to idle at much higher RPM to keep engine running. Once it is time to ski and you take it out of neutral you have to quickly put it in gear and start pushing the throttle up or it will stall.


I had this exact problem on my 1989 2001. Numerous remedies were tried by mechanics without success including a carb rebuild.

What DID complete solve this problem was cleaning out the completely plugged metal flame arrestor on top of the carb by soaking in gummout then blowing dry. Amazingly, none of the mechanics had thought or bothered to clean it.

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1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: rosconole
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 1:12am
I tell you what actually REALLY helped was I started useing Seafoam additive about every other tank full or so. Idles alot better and smoother in and out of gear. but that flame arrestor can cause alot of issues reminds me its probably about time to unleash a can of brake clean on mine.

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1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee


Posted By: charger496
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 2:03am
I have the usual spacer under the carb, and since everything was new, thought a vac leak was out of the question. My idle got unpredictable, and i realized that the gasket was not wide enough on the spacer-to-intake side. It had sucked itself in to create a leak. I made my own gasket, and all's well.


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 10:06am
What are yall getting in the flame arrestors?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: Rick_E
Date Posted: June-24-2011 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

What are yall getting in the flame arrestors?

After only 21 years it was completely plugged with black gunk.

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1989 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: pcgwi
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 5:56pm
I'm having this same issue with a 1986 2001. Did you resolve the problem with any of the suggestions below? Very frustrating. Starts/runs fine for the first 30/45 min and then when trying to restart you have to give it throttle and it either floods out or stalls once in gear...

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PCGWI


Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: October-01-2014 at 6:42pm
I believe I know the solution with all of you having the same problem since I just went through this myself. Look down your carb after it's all warmed up and shut off (remove flame arrestor), and if it's dripping gas down the primary (front 2 holes)you've found your problem.
The solution may be one or several things.
1. Fuel pressure too high.
2. float valve not sealing
3. debris in float bowl blocking valve.
4. float level set too high
I was sure it was 2,3,or 4 since my fuel pump was stock, but after ruling out everything else including a new carb, it turned out my old stock fuel pump was putting out 10 psi. A autozone fuel pressure regulator (dial type) was just crap, leaked and pressure was inconsistent. A new Holley fuel pump was still too much pressure
not to drip and flood. Finally a new Holley fuel pressure regulator made it work perfect after a few adjustments. No more shower into the carb. You really can't tell anything without a fuel pressure gauge I found.
Of course, I also had a weak spark due to bad points to confuse me even more.
It's all sorted out now. Hope this helps someone.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 10:08am
I saw an EI module have the same condition after you ran it at a period of higher RPMS. Near wot.

You just need to look at the indicators and determine if it's fuel related or ignition related.

The EI on this particular boat wouldn't fire properly enough at a lower rpm to burn the mixture properly thus creating a false rich indication. Black smoke from the exhausts.

How dirty was that flame arrestor good lord? I haven't cleaned mine in 750+/- hours and it's fine. Although, it is on the list of things to do this winter while I repaint the engine/trans.

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Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 10:36am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:



You just need to look at the indicators and determine if it's fuel related or ignition related.


Or both! Actually looking (like looking under the hood of your car) won't tell you everything you need to know. Without a fuel pressure gauge and multimeter you're just guessing.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-02-2014 at 10:40am
Just verifying everything is within spec with proper tools. Guessing always ends up costing you more money.

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