Temporary Stringer Repair
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21339
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 4:38am
Topic: Temporary Stringer Repair
Posted By: Robb
Subject: Temporary Stringer Repair
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 1:03am
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Okay guys, like some, I have read bits and pieces of threads talking about stringer repairs, and there's a lot of great info on the website for sure - lots of truly talented CC owners out there.
Now, for the insane question - in looking at these pictures, is it totally ridiculous to think that I could put some temporary fixes in place for the secondaries in order to get a floor down and make it through this season?? I absolutely know that this boat needs (and deserves) a complete stringer job. The mains appear to be fairly solid yet in all of the areas that I have checked thus far. I know it is money not well spent, but I am willing to accept that.   
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 9:37am
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Rob,
This will sound crude but consider just adding a layer of ply on the floor for the season. I see you have a fresh trans. Don't forget the alignment! I may be wrong just do to the picture but it looks like the engines aft end is towards starboard so the shaft isn't centered in the log. It looks like there's a offset in the hose betwen the log and stuffing box. Keep a eye on your alignment through the seasom and keep in mind alignment starts at the strut and then goes forward. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:06am
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Pete:
You're absolutely correct! Great eye. I did not even pick up on this. This makes total sense now that I'm thinking about it. I crawled under the boat the other day because I was considering replacing the strut bushings and noticed the shaft not centered. This was after I watched your strut alignment presentation - nice job BTW. Could you remind me how much movement is acceptable in the strut bushing when moving the shaft in all directions? Was it an 1/8"?? The layer of plywood over the existing is something I did not consider and is a great idea. How would you suggest attaching it to the boat if the secondaries and cross members are rotted? Should I CPES some 1x6s pieces on both sides and just bed them in some epoxy? Thanks for the encouragement. I truly thought this was going to be a lost cause. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:19am
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Rob,
If you detent any movement in the cutlass bearing by hand, it's time for a new one. Don't worry about the ply lasting very long since it would be temporary and just get you through the season. I'd lay it down in a thickened bed of epoxy and then screws that hopefully you can find spots that will hold. I can't believe myself talking about such a "half a##ed" repair!!  You should have started a stringer job months ago!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:31am
| I deserve the beating!! I fully expected a flogging right off the bat! I do appreciate the fact that you chose to humor me on this even thought it totaly goes against all common sense and logic. Lots of fun to look forward to in the Fall. I hope I can muster the courage. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:49am
Rob, Try to make it up to Green Lake where we all can do a proper job of verbal abuse in person! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Robb wrote:Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 12:00am
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Why do you need ply on the floor? It looks from your pictures that the floor is OK.
What you could to do with the secondary in your second picture is... 1) Scrape out as much of the bad wood as possible. Cut a piece of wood to fill the void. 2) Lay a thick bed of thickened epoxy in the void put your wood in the epoxy bed. 3) Use some mat from the side of the stringer over the top of the new wood and on to the floor. That way you at least have the floor attached to the stringer again. |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 12:29am
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Any area getting new epoxy or mat should be ground down so it adheres properly - correct? Any idea what the lead time on resin and mat would be from USC or some other place if I decided to go this route?
BTW, I've been admiring your stringer work. Very nice. I can only dream of doing such a nice job! |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 12:36am
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Robb,
That sure is a beautiful boat there. I hope you find a temp fix to get you through. But a rule of thumb is check your engine allignment periodically to ensure where you are at. At any given time, rott could be be infested and could damage many other vital areas of the boat. Good luck on your temp fix and hope all goes well... ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 12:44am
USC ships quickly once you put your order in. Yes grind off the surface gel to get down to the glass. |
Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 1:30am
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Rob .You have a nice looking boat . I see you are from Fort Wayne, where do you boat at ? My brother does a lot of boating on Wawasee.We make it over ther about 3 times a summer . ------------- Pat http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier Rock River Dixon,ILL. |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 1:51am
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Thanks, but looks can be deceiving! She needs a lot of work yet, but with the help from everyone on this site, I think I'll be able to do it.
I grew up boating on Wawasee, but I mainly hang out on the Coldwater chains and Lake George, which is partially in Indiana and Michigan. |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 11:06am
Ive always wanted to check out the chain of lakes, is it my understanding you go from us 12 all the way down to Coldwater Lake? The day we were going to do it I had just put the boat in and a huge rain storm developed so we had to high tail it outa there 
never been back since and that was 20 years ago boy how time gets away? Kirk ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:23pm
| There are two chains, and the chain that includes Coldwater Lake goes for miles. It has been several years since I've even done that as well. |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:31pm
| I have another question. If you look at my prop shaft picture at the beginning of this thread, you'll notice it has (2) bolts in it. Are these pinch bolts? Can someone refer me to the right thread on how to remove this flange in order to remove the shaft and replace the strut bushing? I've read threads about the long bolt and socket method, but I'm not totally sure that I totally understand how this works. Also, do I need to remove either the prop or the rudder to get the shaft out once the flange is off? |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:40pm
here´s a picture..you need to put lon bolts end the put a socket between hte flanges and start adjutsting until the shaft pops out...a little torch to heat up the coupling might help. ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:44pm
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Firts you need to remove the prop, then the shaft from the coupling...Rudder sometimes is not required to be removed..mine slided out very tight though..had to force it a little to clear it....
I forgot to menction theres a big nut that bolts to the shaft inside the coupling also, needs to go away...In my case I have a metric nut 28mm. Used a pipe wrench to secure the coupler from spining while loosening the nut.... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:53pm
| Thanks for the quick response! This method won't damage the trans any?? I just had it rebuilt last summer. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 3:59pm
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not that I´m aware... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 4:56pm
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Here's a couple of other pics showing the socket in place.
If you cut a couple pieces of all-thread double nut the tranny side then you won't have to switch to shorter bolts half way through the job as I did. Also tighten a turn or so then rotate coupler 180* turn the same amount on that one, that way you exert even pressure on the flange. The two square headed set bolts will need to be removed/loosened also, and no it wont damage the tranny. 
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Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 10:49pm
| Thanks for the tips. I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow, so we'll see what happens. I noticed a collar on your shaft. I don't have this. Is this something I should add? Does a 1" I.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. bushing sound right? That's what my crude measurements came out to be. I'm also missing one of the bronze set screws in the strut. Is this something I can order? |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 11:35pm
Pete, I'm so proud of you. I never thought I'd see the day when you even offered up some information like this.
First a black president, then Pete with the half a$$ repair. What's next?  ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 1:14am
A tower is ok on a wood boat to tow tubers,as long as you 'glass the bottom first, I would venture to guess ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-21-2011 at 2:04am
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I've seen some pretty bad repairs that seemed to work. If you"re just doing it for the season then why not seal up some ply with epoxy, cover it in carpet and set it in place.
My neighbor just picked up a Supreme like this, i spotted it and gave him lots of verbal abuse about buying it. Bad thing is he turned around 2 days later traded it off for a lawn mowing trailer with equipment and sold that the nest day to more than double what he paid for the boat. Anyway, it was an OK looking repair, the wood would be water proofed enough not to curl up when it got wet and it doesn't get any easier to remove. You might even be able to use it in a permanat repair. |
Posted By: Robb
Date Posted: April-26-2011 at 9:01pm
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I've got part of the secondaries out and I'm waiting on the resin and mat from USC to rebuild, but I'm not sure what kind of wood to use. Any suggestions? When I do the entire stringer job later, I know to use douglas fir for the mains, but I don't know what's recommended for everything else.
Thanks. |