Hull Hugger
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21385
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 6:11pm
Topic: Hull Hugger
Posted By: Jones
Subject: Hull Hugger
Date Posted: April-20-2011 at 5:11pm
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This topic may have been covered before but has anyone ever cut open and removed the Hull Hugger baffles? I really don't see much of a use for them other than noise and mine have developed an annoying rattle. It seems one or more have broken lose inside. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-13-2011 at 6:16pm
You can replace the http://www.nautiqueparts.com/mufflerhullhugger1997.aspx - Hull Hugger but it will hurt the piggy 
Sorry about that, just wanted to use the pig emoticon. I was going to say that the Y pipe came up in another thread as a way to replace the invera-flow, but looks like you were on that thread. |
Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: May-15-2011 at 1:42pm
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Removing the baffles kind of defeats the purpose of the muffler. So yeah, you could remove them but then the muffler won't 'muffle' as well.
Here's a post of mine on how to rebuild your muffler for about $20. Did mine last summer and still going strong. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17967&KW=&title=blown-muffler-rebuild--easy ------------- Eric 97 196 Closed Bow |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-15-2011 at 2:24pm
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Thanks Eric. The baffles actually do very little to "muffle" the noise and probably have more of a negative impact by restricting exhaust flow than it does by reducing noise. I was looking at the most cost effective method of eliminating the rattle and figured if I had to cut into it I might as well remove the baffles completely. It turns out I decided to replace the hull hugger with the "Y" pipe mentioned previously in a few threads.
It's nice to see another Boisean on this site and I hope to see you around. I was at Black Canyon yesterday for a test run and it was flowing like a river. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 6:06pm
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Hey Jones,
Where did you find your y-pipe? Looking to find one asap, adios hull-hugger....man I hated that thing! Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 9:20pm
Come on Sean, you haven't figured out how to do a on line search yet???   That's worse than members who haven't figured out how to use the CCfan search feature!!!
I just did a on line and with the first hit came up with this: http://www.ebasicpower.com/c/ALL5A/Fiberglass+Exhaust+Fittings - Marine fiberglass Y pipe Go for it!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 10:26pm
I spent two hours searching before I posted that question!  "marine" was the term I wasn't using. Dohh!
Thanks as always Pete. You da man! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 10:40pm
Thanks but keep in mind that was the first thing that popped up with my search. Many different inlet/outlet diameters are available. Keep going - I want to see the results (and hear) of getting rid of that "septic tank" hull hugger!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Sephmu wrote:Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-12-2011 at 2:03pm
I haven't replaced it yet but I'm planning on it. Being the cheapskate I am, I decided to buy one of these and modify it rather than fork over the $100 plus: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOAT-MARINE-EXHAUST-SURGE-CHAMBER-CENTEK-MUFFLER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3356bcf5dcQQitemZ220498556380QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear - Centek Surge Chamber This is how it turned out.  ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-12-2011 at 2:06pm
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I think the freight cost was more than the purchase price. I'm very interested to see how it works out. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 6:03pm
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http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/engine-parts-and-supplies/exhaust-risers-elbows-fittings-and-headers/centek-wet-marine-fiberglass-exhaust-branch-y-3-inch-x-2-exhaust-side-4-inches-1200256/prod_16463.html - $145!
Found this bad boy, and at that price I can assure you that I will be measuring twice
Thanks again everyone! -Sean |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 6:09pm
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Yes, be carefull. That shows 3" exhaust x2. Mine was 3.5" ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 6:53pm
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Yeah, they have all the sizes on that sight which is nice, I just linked one at random. but I believe mine is 3.5 inch in as well, I'll double check when I get home.
Like I said, at that price I'll have my ducks in a row before I order! Hopefully I'll get some pics up when I'm done next week |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 7:00pm
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Gotcha. Good luck. I would be very interested in how it turns out and what affect it has on the boat. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 7:30pm
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Just took a Y pipe and crap out of mine.
Got tired of having a headache after driving the boat for a couple hours. |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 7:48pm
------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 8:08pm
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Some people say too loud, others love it and say it's not obtrusive at all. It seems some of the early morning skiers around here have "un-Y-piped" more out of courtesy to the sleeping residents on shore rather than not liking the sound.
All depends on your use and preferences I guess |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 8:32pm
Its all in your taste. Sounds good from far away. We actually use our boat 4-5 hours a week so the constant rumble gets annoying. I also ski 2-3 days a week at 6AM, don't like to wake up people so they can complain. |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 9:20pm
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I see. That would be a problem. I just didn't think the Y pipe made that much of a difference in the noise. I sure would like to hear the difference before I make the switch. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: July-08-2011 at 10:43pm
| Yeehaw, y-pipe and various other goodies on my doorstep this morning thanks to Bonnie at Race-City Marine! Pics as soon as this wonderful "sunny" Florida weather clears up. Thanks again everyone! |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: July-11-2011 at 1:49pm
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I've been having a couple issues I have been unable to completely solve and which I thought were unrelated until I finally solved both over the weekend. As mentioned here http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21336&KW=&PID=271412&title=hot-exhaust-hose#271412 - Hot Exhaust Hose I've been having intermittent issues with hot exhaust hose to the point of blistering the inside. I thought the risers were the issue but they weren't. Manifolds are in great shape, the engine runs at perfect operating temperature and water flow appeared to be good. I was beating my head against the wall trying to figure out the problem. Another issue was a rattle in the muffler that prompted me to plan on replacing with a Y-pipe. The comments here from Mr Muskewitz and watrski caused me to change my mind. The rattle was not very noticeable when the boat was in the water so I thought I would just leave it alone. And finally, I've recently been having some hesitation at WOT I thought were the vacuum secondaries.
Then, Friday night it came to me that blockage in the Hull-Hugger could be creating excessive back pressure resulting in the hot exhaust and was probably also causing my high RPM issues. The first thing Saturday I dug into it figuring I had nothing to lose. Thanks to Eric Crawford for his recommendations regarding the 45 degree cut with the Dremel. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: July-11-2011 at 1:53pm
 ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: July-11-2011 at 2:09pm
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The debris in the picture is after I had to reach in and break it apart to remove the tube. If I would have known what was in there, I would have cut a larger access hole (and wore some gloves)
I took it to the lake yesterday and problem(s) solved!! The exhaust hose is now warm, not hot and I had no problem getting to 4500 RPM. In fact, it seemed to run better the longer I was out on the water. There is no doubt quite a bit of crap on the valves that was blown off. Another surprising part is that it had little if any noticeable effect on the noise. Although it may be louder than a properly functioning Hull Hugger, it is still A LOT quieter than my old '79. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Sephmu
Date Posted: July-12-2011 at 2:59pm
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Hey Jones glad you got your problem solved without spending a ton of $$!
I finally wrapped up my install Sunday and I'll have to say, there is no doubt you came out way ahead of me in the money spent category!! I forgot how much that stinking exhaust hose is! Regardless, I'm excited to have that bulky hull hugger out of there, and surprisingly I couldn't tell much of a difference in noise while on the hose in the driveway, granted it wasn't under a load but I was expecting it to be much louder regardless. Maybe the old hull hugger had already given up the ghost before I got it, not to mention it had split like an egg! But the only discernible difference was maybe just a bit more "sharpness" in the exhaust note. We'll see how she barks in the water, but man my bilge is much cleaner without that thing! Hopefully I can get some pics soon for those interested, as I'm looking at the camera on my desk while I type this, which I'll surely forget at the end of the day! Thanks again everyone. |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 8:40pm
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Hi.., wondering if Jones is still on this board... I have the same issue with a hot port downpipe and would like to ask him some questions. I've already fried the port downpipe and have replaced it with a new one. But when I run the engine the port side get really hot. I checked the risers and everything looks really good so I'm leaning towards the hull hugger thingy. I'm wondering if I can simply take the rubber hoses off and check for blockage.
Does anyone have an email address for him ? Here's the link to my thread. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23036&PID=289015#289015 ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 8:48pm
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Howdy. All I had to do was take it out and it rattled so I knew something had broken loose. With so few hours on yours I doubt it but might be worth a look. Due to the design, it was hard to tell by reaching up inside. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 9:28pm
Phil, All you need to do is click on the down arrow next to the members screen name. Click on his profile and it will bring up all the data. One of the items is the last time he logged into the site. Also, you can not just copy and past a link on CCfan like you can do on other sites. First, you must go to the "post reply" and not the "quick reply". You will find the "world" icon. Clicking on it will bring up a window where you what to type in the description of your link. Click ok and the next window is where you what to paste the copied link. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 9:29pm
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I would also check your exhaust manifold to riser gaskets. I noticed my port side was running a little warm, pulled the riser off and noticed that I had not trimmed the gasket enough around one of the water ports.
------------- Eric 97 196 Closed Bow |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 9:41pm
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Thanks Jones, Eric and Pete for all the help. This is really a great board and the willingness to help reminds me of some of the Euro car forums I belong to. But don't hold that against me ;)
The risers are off and there is no blockage.., although other say there could be blockage down in the header. So should I take the port header off and flip it upside down and flush it out ? Will also take the fiberglass down pipe off and see if i can feel any blockage in the tube leading into the muffler. Again.., thanks for the help and will report back if I find anything. Phil ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 9:46pm
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Before going down that road (which means new gaskets all around, teflon tape, etc; how warm are they running? Remember that at an idle they will get pretty hot because the water volume is VERY low. When mine is idling I can only touch the riser bolts for about 1-1 1/2 seconds. Once I run it at about 2k RPM and above it is nice and cool.
The important part is that the rubber hose is cool. If that is hot then you definitely have a problem. Not to ask the obvious, but have you replaced the water pump impeller and swash plate? ------------- Eric 97 196 Closed Bow |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 10:07pm
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Eric.., the dealer replaced the impeller, not sure about the swash plate. Probably not.
How hot.., if I run engine for about a minute, idle and a few revs to 3k rpms, with a garden hose hooked up I can touch the headers and risers and are pretty cool. However the rubber hose that connects the riser to the fiberglass down pipe on the port side is what's getting hot to the touch. After idle and a few revs I can put my hand on the fiberglass for only a second. However the starboard side remains cool at the down pipe. Is there a way to back flush the header ? Since I have the riser off if I tape up the exhaust hole to keep water out, then take the drain plug out and inlet hose off.., shouldn't I be able to force any crap that's in there back out ? Phil. ____________ ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 11:36pm
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Hmmm, sounds crazy but here is what I would do. We used to have similar problems at a place I used to work in Alaska when the impeller would disintegrate and go through the engine.
Remove the fiberglass elbows from the exhaust. With the drain plug removed, start the engine and monitor the water coming out of each rubber pipe. If you notice significant variance, then start working backward. Try and figure out where an obstruction could be. Assuming there is a variance, I would start with the water lines connected to the front of the exhaust manifolds. You can run for 10-20 seconds with the water line removed without a problem. I would recommend plugging the hole in the brass 90 when you remove the hose, that way the water that is in the manifold and riser will help keep the metal cool. Keep working backward until you find the point where the water volumes are the same. This will tell you where the blockage is. BTW, I wouldn't try and backflush anything until you know where the root issue is...you'll just be wasting time. Hope this helps. ------------- Eric 97 196 Closed Bow |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 1:42pm
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Guys.., found the problem. Thanks for all the help.
The problem was a solid calcified mud ball at the inlet of the port heard. THere was a small hole allowing some water to pass through.., but not enough to keep the pipes cool. I dug that crap out with a screw driver and we are good to go :) Will post pics in bit. Phil _____________ ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 2:00pm
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Nice
Yes, definitely curious to see pics. |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 4:54pm
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Here ya go... Edit-(links aren't working, give me a sec , or just cut and paste)....
Crap that blew out of the tailpipe. Probably remnants of the fiberglass downpipe that melted %20 - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2140002.JPG Some of the mud I dug out %20 - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160009.JPG Header inlet with black mud still in there %20 - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160015.JPG Everything I could dig out prior to flushing the header %20 - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160018.JPG Again.., thanks for the support ! Tonight I just need to put the new thermostat in, mount the riser on the port side, attach hoses and I'm off to the lake. Lastly., this morning I ran out to the dealer to pick up a spare impeller, riser gaskets, etc.. This dealer is where I initially took my boat after melting the downpipe. I got there when the doors opened, place was empty.., but low and behold found the GM sitting at his desk. Yes, that was his Merc S600 sitting in the parking lot. So he helped ring up my order and while I was waiting I mentioned that his engine tech get an F in my book for my engine repair. He asked what happened and then blew off my comment with "we'll.., he's not PCM certified yet" So I called him out on it and told him that any tech that know anything about engines would know better then to return a boat to the customer without finding the root of the problem. He apologized and said he would "email the tech". Unbelievable. I'm seriously thinking about creating a slam page online for this dealer so that Southern Ca knows that this company's tech can't troubleshoot a simple cooling issue. Once I got my hands in there I was able to find the issue. If anyone is curious about who the dealer is PM me.., not sure if I want to post this as of yet. Again..., thanks for all the help. Phil. ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 7:27pm
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the links are not working!
glad you solved the problem! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: PhiloM5
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 7:47pm
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I know.., sorry , I screwed up.. you'll have to cut and paste into the browser. I'll see if I can fit it. ------------- 97 Ski 5.0 97.3 hrs |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 7:49pm
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This should work:
Edit, now they should work: http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2140002.JPG - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2140002.JPG http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160009.JPG - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160009.JPG http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160015.JPG - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160015.JPG http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160018.JPG - http://phil.files.infostreet.com/Boat/P2160018.JPG |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-28-2013 at 11:46pm
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Have you confirmed that the noise level is about the same when using the hull hugger without the baffle, or was that just a guess? I know you said you were going to the "Y" configuration, but i thought i would ask if you happen to know how much difference the baffle makes. I took mine out today because it was cracked, and the guy who is repairing it for me is going to do it for much less $ if I decide to just remove the baffle instead of trying to repair it. Repairing the crack is pretty simple, but repairing the baffle is a pain, and there's no guarantee it won't come loose. I was just wondering how much difference it makes. I saw where one guy posted that the muffler without the baffle kind of "defeats the purpose," but as I have done some research, the vast majority of people think the baffle doesn't make that much difference. I don't think removing it defeats the purpose, because you still have a 2 inlet/1 outlet fiberglass muffler. The guy fixing mine was guessing it may be 10-15% louder, but he admitted that was just a guess. Thanks. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 1:51pm
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I don't think the baffle made much difference at all. Maybe 5% if that. I don't like the fact that it holds so much water but I think that is what gives it its sound deadening characteristics. I decided to keep the muffler with the baffles removed since it seemed to work so well and is much more cost effective than having to buy new wet exhaust hose. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 2:40pm
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Thanks for your post. It's a bit of a load off, because I was afraid I was going to pay this guy to repair it, then install it and hate the noise it makes. Then I would be looking at getting a new one, on top of having paid to get the original one repaired. With the sound difference so minimal, you would think they would just manufacture them without the baffles, since they seem to break loose so often. I suppose they're trying to get every last decible they can get. I suppose you're right about the water, it makes sense that it would help deaden the noise. I'm not an engineer, but I can't understand why the exhaust can be above the waterline. I mean, the water that enters the exhaust isn't being used for cooling, so why can't they make the boats with the exhaust above the waterline? That way, you would have to worry about getting a small crack in the exhaust. Perhaps the reason is simply what you said...they need the water to make the boat quieter. Thanks again. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 7:53pm
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Who said that the water entering the exhaust wasnt used for cooling? And exactly how would you propose running the exhaust above the water line (ie, above the floor of the boat) without infringing on useable space? ------------- |
Posted By: Scrawford
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 8:31pm
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I find it hard to believe that the mfr would go through all the expense of the baffle to only cut noise level by 5%. Maybe at a certain RPM or certain load, but overall I would speculate closer to 20%. When you look at all the work companies go through to reduce mat'l costs, there is NO WAY Hull Hugger would add the baffle, tube, bracketing, and trouble if it only decreased dBs by 5%. I patched mine two years ago, including the baffle repair, and it is working like a charm. The baffle is no big deal in regard to repair. If you are already there then fixing the baffle at the same time takes all of about 10 min. extra. Just make sure you use some carb cleaner to get rid of the grease/oil... ------------- Eric 97 196 Closed Bow |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 9:22pm
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I have no idea what the manufacturer is thinking, but if you talk to them (Centek Industries), they don't like to discuss why their product failed. As for the baffle being "no big deal to repair," I would think that would depend on who is repairing it, but more importantly, the extent of the damage. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 2:28am
Gee, I can't imagine a manufacturer ever over-engineering a proprietary product so they can gouge a consumer I can only speak to my own experience but you are welcome to get a second opinion.Also, carb cleaner is petroleum based and probably the last thing you want to use (next to gasoline) when prepping for Fiberglass resin ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 3:27am
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By the way, what was wrong with your baffle that took all of 10 mins to repair? It would take hours to repair mine, which is another reason we decided to remove it. By the way, the baffle is the "tube,"at least that what the Centek people call it. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 6:59am
Brad, What do you feel is the problem using a solvent for prepping? The carb cleaner is just one of the chlorinated (making it non flammable) solvents. Typically acetone is used as a good prep. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 11:49am
Pete, I suppose there is nothing wrong with using carb cleaner as a first step as long as you follow up with a thorough Acetone cleaning. There may be better products out there but I've only used Acetone. As you know, any solvent that leaves a residue is going to cause some adherence problems. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 12:05pm
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Well, I suppose while we're at it, I'll ask if anyone knows whether Correct Craft uses a special rubber compound for the rubber they install between the hull and the muffler. I was in the rubber business for a long time, so i probably over-think this one. My guess is they just use regular SBR rubber, but something like nitrile would stand up to the oil present in the bilge. Also, I guess a marine adhesive like 3M 5200 would be best to adhere the rubber to the hull. The rubber in mine had some sort of plastic backer on it. I guess that plastic was sticky at some point, but one thing is for sure, the rubber does not stay in place over the years. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 8:51pm
Brad, I understand what you are saying but, what is the residue in the carb cleaner? Chlorinated solvents are some of the best degreasers around. Typically the ingredient in the carb cleaner is perchlorethane. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 10:44pm
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Well, I just now walked back in the house from reinstalling the hull hugger. The baffle tube was removed, then the muffler housing was repaired. It was a nice job, but I forgot to take a pic of it. He glassed in almost the entire bottom half on the input side, then he covered it with black gelcoat. I feel great about the repair, but was anxious about the sound. Once I got everything installed, I lowered the boat into the water (it's on a lift) and nothing leaked, so I started the engine with the floorboard and engine cover off. I could not even tell the difference from the muffler with the baffle tube. I bought this Nautique new in 1998, so I know what it sounds like, and to me, it sounds exactly the same. I don't doubt that some sort of decible meter could detect a difference, but the point is, there is no noticeable difference in the sound without the baffle tube. I'm as surprised as anyone reading this... ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 10:57pm
Pete, I have to admit I was getting pretty frustrated with your questions until I was at the store today and read the label on a can of carb cleaner. I could swear, actually I know, the spray cleaner I used to use on my Solex and Stromberg carbs was oil based solvent. It's been a while and I stand corrected. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 11:54pm
Good to hear (or not hear ) that the repair worked out.
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Posted By: Jones
Date Posted: May-31-2013 at 1:59pm
Cool. I'd be interested to hear how it sounds once it's up to speed. If it's like mine, the result should be the same. ------------- 1979 Ski Nautique (sold) 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Super Sport Nautique |
Posted By: ffhd1clt
Date Posted: May-31-2013 at 3:10pm
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I took it up to speed, and I swear I couldn't tell any difference. I fully expected it to be louder, but my concern was that it was going to be too loud. As I said, some kind of instrument that measures sound in decibles may decern a difference, but my ears can't tell the difference. So, if anyone has to repair their hull hugger, and the baffle tube has broken away from the housing, I would advise cutting it out. That gives you one less thing to worry about coming loose, if nothing else. I'll say one more thing and I'm done with the topic: for those who say the baffle makes a difference, I'm quite sure it does or why would they bother with it? All I can think of is they had a goal of getting to or below a specific number, and they couldn't do it without the baffle. Thanks for the posts on here; it's nice to share information. ------------- Frankie @ LKN |
Posted By: stepper459
Date Posted: May-19-2014 at 12:07pm
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I'm jumping in here because I've been following this thread and another one on hot exhaust hoses, and I thought I had solved my problem of hot exhaust hoses two years ago. I had similar symptoms to Jones here initially, but no run issue. My exhaust hoses would get hot after prolonged idling, but they would be ok if I was cruising at any higher speed. I believed the problem to be a once-overheated hose that was collapsing internally as it warmed up under normal operation, because one side was worse than the other and the problem followed the hose when I switched sides. So I replaced the hoses and had no problems thereafter. This was 2012. I was out in the boat this weekend and noticed the hoses getting hot again at idle, no problem at speed. The risers are normal temps, all the time - never over 160. I think that because I do a lot of prolonged idling, the hoses get a little too hot over time, and break down around the channels that allow water to pass from the risers to the hoses. Then the problem is a self-perpetuating, as less and less water passes through at lower speeds. The engine temp is always dead on normal, and I've cleaned out my manifolds and risers, there's no flow issue in there I'm certain of it. I don't think there's a back pressure issue, because the engine always runs flawlessly, and plenty of water comes out the exhaust. The problem is the same on both sides, and my boat has full dual exhausts. Since the hoses get hot, but never more than 300, I am going to put the higher-temp silicone exhaust hose in place of the old stuff, since I now have to replace it anyway, and hopefully that will be the end of it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2014 at 9:40pm
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Morgan, Since you are running hot at idle, check all the connections as well as strainer gaskets on the suction side of the RWP. There is no need to go to the high temp hose. Find the problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: stepper459
Date Posted: May-20-2014 at 10:43am
The engine temp is fine at idle, everything on the engine is fine at idle (checked with IR thermometer, and my hands), except the exhaust hoses. I have checked the strainer, RWP, and all the other hose connections. I've put clear hoses in place for the heater so I can see if there are air bubbles forming or moving through there, and everything is tight, no leaks of air in or water out. While I agree that finding the cause is always better than addressing the symptoms, I am leaning pretty heavily toward the conclusion that the only problem is how I use the boat. |