77 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21547
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 2:37am
Topic: 77 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Posted By: HatterBee
Subject: 77 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Date Posted: May-01-2011 at 1:58pm
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Okay, I told you guys in a previous post I would get some pics on here yall could look at. I just picked this boat up and have a little work ahead of me. I have plenty of experience with boat rebuilds but none with ski boats. This is my first ski boat and bought it for my wife. She learned to ski and to operate a boat with one just like this. I am sure I will have plenty of questions and have included some here.
Exactly which motor is this. The PO said it was a 351 Windsor, but I can't find anything on it that says Windsor? The freeze plugs have come out, so I know it needs to be torn down and rebuilt, but should I rebuild or buy a new, remand engine? If I rebuild what brand of parts should I use? And is there anything I should do custom that may be beneficial while I have it apart? I'm sure more will come later. If yall have any comments or suggestions I would love to hear them. Allen 
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-01-2011 at 2:19pm
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Allen,
You won't find anything that says "Windsor" on the engine. It's simply a designation for a Ford block/engine build in their Windsor plant. The "W" is added on to differentiate it from the "C"/Cleveland block that is also a 351. You have a Escort engine. They were a marinizer of Ford blocks until being purchased by PCM who are still in the business. When you get the engine pulled, I'd suggest you do a stringer job. With the boat being as old as it is, there will be some issues with rot. Most Ford internal parts will work except for the rotation specific ones. (you have a RR engine) External parts like carb, starter, distributor, fuel pump must be marine ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-01-2011 at 8:55pm
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Thanks. The engine stuff is the only thing I am not real familiar with, but my neighbor is a Ford Mechanic so he willing to help but knows nothing about boats. The model number for my engine is ERDWRR10.
I am going to replace the stringers and floor. I have done this before in sport fishers and center consoles. I have been using composite materials such as coosa for all my builds recently and have noticed that everyone here has been going back with wood. Is there a reason not to replace it with a composite like coosa?? This material is lighter and stronger than wood and will not rot. My plans were to marry a couple of 3/4 pieces of coosa for the main stringers with aluminum or stainless reinforced plates for the motor mounts, which would be glassed in. Then use single 3/4 for the secondaries. Also going to use it for the floor. What are your thoughts here? I know it is a little pricey but I can promise I will only do it once. I have also seen were people have added mufflers to their engines. This boat has pvc pipe between the engine and transom. Is there an advantage or disadvantage of adding mufflers? All the inboards I have worked on before, mostly diesel, have had mufflers. Thanks for the assistance. Allen |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-01-2011 at 9:53pm
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Allen,
We have two real good threads on complete stringer jobs using Coosa. You just haven't been reading enough!!  
Your boat doesn't need mufflers! In your boat, a PO replaced the inline glass mufflers with PVC. pipe. Even though it does hold up, I'd suggest a couple lengths of SS. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-02-2011 at 12:23am
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If you are used to mufflers, just using SS pipes will more than likely be too loud for you. My martinique has the fiberglass mufflers and it still is pretty loud, but not deafening.
FWIW, there were also 351M's which were modified clevelands, Good thing the Windsors are the ones that were marinized, because there are many times more parts available for windsors. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: May-08-2011 at 11:55am
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That will be a great boat when your done. I like that your going with coosa. I would guess that its the cost that people steer away from it. Do you have the ring and finger? looks like its gone? ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-08-2011 at 12:21pm
In the pics there is no pylon at all. That's a much bigger issue than just no ring and finger. Hopefully you have the pylon at least.  ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
dochockey wrote:Posted By: charger496
Date Posted: May-08-2011 at 12:36pm
| There's a '77 parting out in the Parts Section with a pylon for sale. |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 3:52pm
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Sorry been away for a while. I have a marine electronics business and my supplier carries coosa so I can get it for wholesale with free shipping (truck delivery). That is one reason I want to go with the coosa as the price is not much different at this rate, plus its strength and resistance to moisture.
As far as the pylon. I purchased this boat very cheap and the PO is looking for the it, he states he has it but seems to have trouble locating it. We will cross that bridge when we get there. I am going to be pretty busy with the tear-out and the engine for now. I am not sure what a ring and finger is, as stated earlier this is my first ski boat. All my boating and rebuilding experience is with offshore boats. So please feel me in. Any suggestions on rebuilding the engine or trying to buy a reman or new one?? Thanks Allen ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 4:37pm
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Are you in Winston-Salem? I am in Greensboro. Would love to come check out the project. I restrung my '73 Skier but did it the old fashioned way with Doug Fir. A coosa rebuild will take more time and epoxy than wood but should last forever.
The ring and finger is at the top of the pylon where you attach the ski rope as pictured below.  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 5:45pm
Be careful!!! It's flex modulus is not as strong as Doug Fir especially at the 8' lap joints!! Members who have done the composite, compensate for it's lower strength by adding more glass over the stringers that was done at the factory originally. Sounds like that supplier of your's needs to do his homework. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 9:39pm
Thanks. I am not going to disagree with your logic on coosa as I am not sure on the actual strength of DF. However, I have used coosa for many projects and utilize it for its strength to weight ratio. Yes it does require a little more glass but the weight is still lower. I can also use relatively smaller dimensioned material as compared to DF. The 8' joints will be reinforced with aluminum plating. The engine and tranny will also sit on aluminum angle embedded in the stringers. This is the process I have taken on inboard replacements before, even diesel engines. What are your thoughts about this plan?? I do appreciate the info and I may have mislead everyone on the strength issue. But I am planning on reducing the weight so coosa is a great way to accomplish this with its weight to dimension ratio. Thanks again. I do not want to offend, just wanted to express my thoughts and experience, because I will definitely need ALL OF YOUR assistance with this project. Allen ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 9:41pm
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[QUOTE=Keeganino] Are you in Winston-Salem? I am in Greensboro. Would love to come check out the project. [QUOTE]
I am in WS. I am actually on the South East side around Walburg. You are more than welcome to stop by. Give me a call. 336-414-2985 Allen ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 11:03pm
I was just trying to describe the general attitude of this site to another new member today and this is how I summed it up.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014&title=another-bfn-rebuild - This thread should be good reading material since you are going with a coosa rebuild. Tim has bounced a lot of cool ideas off of the group to come up with a truly amazing rebuild. He goes into great detail about the processes used. Don't worry about Pete. He's just old and grumpy. Actually he is an amazing resource and is rarely wrong about anything.
Allen I got your number. Looks like a rainy weekend coming up. Might be a good time to check you out. Will give a call. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2011 at 11:11pm
Keegan!!!! 
Allen, Here's some Doug Fir specs: Parallel tensile strength = 87.6 MPa Perpendicular tensile strength = 2 MPa I am having a problem following some of you logic. You feel by using coosa and less of it dimensionally that the weight will be reduced to a point stress loading will be reduced on the stringers? I would not use the aluminum at the 8' splices. You'll end up with a rigid point of extreme stress. Use the FRP to handle it. Yes, read Tim's as well as Joe's coosa project threads. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |