2000 Sport Nautique Speedometer
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21577
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 10:33pm
Topic: 2000 Sport Nautique Speedometer
Posted By: dwp
Subject: 2000 Sport Nautique Speedometer
Date Posted: May-03-2011 at 11:25pm
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Could anyone advise as to how to start to replace the pickup (Pitot) tubing from the outside of my 2000 Sport, to the speedometer and what may be involved? I can see so far that it looks like the ballast tanks need to be removed, but what about the "equalizer" I have been reading about?
Can anyone provide me with some insight?? Thanks, -dave |
Replies:
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 11:02am
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Well, after further research I have found that I have a digital Speedometer, which has a "thru-hull" paddle wheel assembly. Now my question is: what should I look at to see why it is not working? Because it is not. Do these need to be cleaned every so often or are they prone to electrical shorts? I do require a speedometer.
Please send help! Thanks, -dave ------------- |
Posted By: scottb
Date Posted: May-09-2011 at 12:22pm
| Dave, what are the symptoms? Does the display on your digital speedometer still work? Do you see any change in speed on your speedometer? Does the paddle wheel turn freely? |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:55am
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Hi Scott,
It is not a "digital" display, but a needle, that I believe is "electronic", I should have clarified that better. Being a "Computer Tech" for a living, everything to me is digital unless it is mechanically operated (air tubing/pitot). I have not pulled the dash back yet to look at the back, but I am almost positive that this was a "Faria Upgrade" on my Sport as it was a recall from CC. I just got the boat in October '10, and am just getting started on the TLC it needs and the speedo not working is one of the items. The speedometer needle does not move at all, the paddle wheel is free, maybe to free. I'am not sure how they work, this is the first time I have seen this setup. I guess my next step is to pull the dash back and start investigating the wiring harness. What do you think? -dave ------------- |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: May-10-2011 at 1:07am
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Scott,
My speedometer looks like this: http://www4.shopping.com/Faria-Faria-Chesapeake-Series-Speedometer-60-Mph/info -dave ------------- |
Posted By: scottb
Date Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:32pm
| I think you're on the right track checking the connections on the back of the speedometer. It should also have a potentiometer with it for calibrating the speedo. Make sure that is not turned all the way down, too. |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: May-10-2011 at 3:37pm
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Yes, gotta get the dash pulled back to see what's going on there.
I'll keep you posted. ------------- |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: May-16-2011 at 3:56pm
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Pulled the dash late last week, all wires seem to be connected and did find an adjustment pot. Had the boy spin the paddle wheel, still no movement on the needle. I found some documentation on Faria's site about checking the wiring, I have to go through that next.
Nothing is ever easy, -dave "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas A. Edison ------------- |
Posted By: enon
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:45pm
| Did you find out what the problem was? I am having the same problems |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 8:10pm
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This has come up before, I know Mike Valant is well versed:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21255&KW=speedometer&title=2000-sport-gauges - Sport Gauges In the above, it sounds like installing the paddlewheel and the Farias was the fix. Sounds like you already have both though. Do you have any way of knowing if they ever worked after the retrofit? Another option was to go with the http://www.perfectpass.com/images/precisionstar/PrecisionStar.pdf - Precision Star speedos from Perfect Pass. |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 2:34pm
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Actually I am still working on it, as baseball, lawn, graduations, etc. are getting in my way. I think I have it narrowed down to the "speed transducer", which from what I understand go bad easily. Wonderful!
I have contacted Faria via phone, after many attempts, and they sent me a trouble shooting white paper on how to see if the transducer is bad. I plan on doing that when I get home tonight weather pending. I will post tomorrow if I get to it tonight. ------------- |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: June-23-2011 at 12:25pm
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I didn't get to it last night, weather didn't permit, hopefully tonight.
-dave ------------- |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: June-23-2011 at 8:30pm
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Well, the rain stopped long enough to do the test, and it show's that the "speed transducer" is in fact bad. Replacing it will prove that correct, I hope. Here are the instructions from Faria that I followed:
------------------------------------------------------------------- To test the sensor on the boat connected to the speedometer: 1. Turn on the key to supply power to the instrument. 2. With the paddle wheel still. Check the VDC Signal to Ground at the back of the speedometer,* it should be a bit less than battery voltage. (For example, with a battery voltage of 13VDC at the rear of the speedometer, Signal to Ground voltage would be about 10VDC). If Signal to Ground reading is (Zero VDC) turn the paddle wheel slowly until you get a (10VDC) reading on the voltmeter. If you slowly turn the paddle wheel and get these alternating voltage readings the sensor is good. If you slowly turn the paddle wheel and the voltage stays the same (10VDC or Zero VDC), the sensor is bad. 3. Spin the paddlewheel. If the sensor is good: You will read about one half the Signal to Ground VDC or about (5VDC) with sensor spinning.** 4. Spin the paddlewheel. If the sensor is bad: You will read the original Signal to Ground voltage, (10VDC or Zero VDC) with sensor spinning.** *Note: On Serial Bus systems check the voltages at the harness between the paddlewheel and the Gateway box not at the speedometer. **Note: You may not be able to spin the paddlewheel with the boat in the water. ------------------------------------------------------------------- I need to acquire a new "speed transducer" (Paddlewheel), and then I will post the results. Let me know how you make out trouble shooting your issue. Thanks, -dave ------------- |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-23-2011 at 8:40pm
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So Speed Transducer = Paddlewheel?
Ok, good luck and let us know how it turns out when you get the new one. |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: June-24-2011 at 11:50am
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Yes, Speed Transducer = Paddlewheel. Ordering the parts today from White Lake Marine. Will update after installation. ------------- |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 3:34pm
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Hi All:
The new "Paddle Wheel" is in and everything works well. Now I need to set the speed via the fine adjustment and a GPS. Installing the new PaddleWheel was not a big deal, TG, took about an hour. I cut the wiring about 2' from the old paddlewheel, attached the new wiring (that to be connected to the speedometer), and pulled it through with help from my son. I did cut the new wiring at the dash, so I didn't have a roll of excess wire like I did on the last one, and then made the connections to the speedometer. I left about a foot of free play at the paddle wheel for maintenance purposes, and about three feet at the dash. Wiring: (bare):Ground, Red:Power, Green:Signal (Brown/White:not used), unless you have a Water Temp gauge. This information is not provided to you based on the new transducer(PaddleWheel), I had to contact Airmar for this information. All is well with the speedometer. Many Thanks Adirondack and White Lake Marine's for their help in getting this fixed. -dave ------------- |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 4:44pm
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Unfortunately there never was a recall by CC to replace these faulty gauges. All retrofits were a result of the boat owner wanting gauges that work. If it was a recall, the replacement gauges would have been installed free of charge, and most if not all of the original lcd gauges would be gone from boats that had them.
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 11:01pm
Tom, Are you sure? I think there was a time CC as replacing gauges !!!! Maybe I'm off on the years but I suspect you are too!!  Have you spoken "out of turn" again????  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
horkn wrote:Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: July-04-2011 at 1:27pm
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Well, that is what I was told, that CC warranted the gauges because the VDO's were crap. The service was done by the marine that I bought my boat from used, I don't know why they would misinform me?
Anyhow, my gauges except for the correct hours on the tachometer are working. That's all I care about. ------------- |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: July-04-2011 at 1:43pm
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With so many of the bad gauges out there still, CC surely didn't handle any recall properly.
How many boats did CC sell with these poor design gauges? It's a fairly small boat company, we know that the owners of the boats could have been located to correct the issue the proper way. Now it's your turn. ;). ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: dwp
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 3:16pm
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I have no clue. ------------- |