'86 Barefoot Nautique 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21741
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 10:28pm
Topic: '86 Barefoot Nautique 2001
Posted By: windexh8er
Subject: '86 Barefoot Nautique 2001
Date Posted: May-17-2011 at 7:29pm
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OK, here goes. I'm newer to boating (through inheritance - I married into it) but am mechanically apt. My in-laws have an '86 BFN (grey/white/black with the large 2001 logo towards the stern and after a little bit of working on the boat last season (electrical) I am starting to bring it back up to snuff as I tend to be very meticulous about vehicles under my care. So, I apologize up front if these questions have been asked a million times - I've spent a few hours trying to find good info, but it seems like with this age boat it's harder to get the detail of info I'm looking for. Here goes...
1) The carb needs to be rebuilt. Not a problem, however I don't have access to the boat this week and would like to start ordering parts. Is this the 4150 Holley rebuild kit? And where do you guys get parts from? It seems like a lot of people recommend skidim. 2) Oil change. I haven't even attempted to look at how this gets done but since the motor sits down in the hull a little bit I'm assuming you need to run a drain hose somewhere? Type of oil / filter suggestions? This is a 454 I'm told and since this boat seems to be popular I'd like to restore it to as-good-as-new as possible. I generally run Ams in my cars/trucks/bikes - but am not sure if this should even be attempted in this age of a 454 (worried about leaks until I can completely tear it down and rebuild - not for another season or two). 3) The electrical system on this thing has seen better days. My thoughts are to redo the distributor and plug wires initially and then new battery and main and ground lines. After that I'm going to redo all the lighting wiring and add in some in boat LED accent. Again, what do you guys recommend for parts and since it seems hard to match parts up is there something I should be looking for to make sure, for example, I'm buying the right distributor, plug wires, etc? 4) Gauges. One speedo works of the two (I'm assuming this is for left turn / right turn accuracy). The dash is a little sad although none of the gauges are cracked. The ammeter and fuel gauges work but bounce around like they're on meth when you're not powered down. I'd like to replace them all on one hand but on the other I'd like to keep it as original as possible. It also seems like most boats only have one speedo. Is there anyone that restores / upgrades old gauges? 5) Switches on the dash all need to be replaced. Any suggestions on what type to use for the bilge, blower, lighting, etc? 6) Fake a lake - will this work on this boat? I've read certain CC have hulls that don't play nice with this, but if I'm going to rebuild and tune the carb I'd like to be able to do it in the shop. 7) Gel coating? The boat is in good shape from a body perspective, it's always on a lift in the summer under cover and then covered as well. The boat itself though is a little "dull". What can I do to preserve the color it still has and keep it (polish / protectant)? 8) Impeller. I forgot about this one - but this is a decent size motor and cooling is important. Anything I can do to replace the water pump system? I might as well just do it while now. I've read about the impeller in the pump on these being a common fail item. Anything else? This boat is relatively clean and taken care of, but just not to the level I would have unfortunately. I was thinking of augmenting the original analog dash with some electronics for speed, temp, etc - but I think I have enough on my plate for right now. Game plan for this year is to bring it up to "great" operating status by making sure the mechanical/electrical are all working well. Thanks so very much for any insight and suggestions! I'll keep digging for info. |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-17-2011 at 7:47pm
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Short answers:
1. Pull the LIST number off the choke horn and call Holley's 1800#. They'll tell you which rebuild kit you need. Make sure its a marine 650cfm 4160 while you have them on the horn. Do not run an auto carb. 2. Valvoline VR1 20w50. Lots of ZDDP for an older flat tappet motor. Wix/Napa filters are some of the best. 3. The distributor must be marine. Replacing it will set you back $300-400 for a nice electronic unit. I would opt to open it up and replace points and free up the weights/springs if its not showing signs of needing replacement. Plug wires arent marine specific, but need to be long enough to go under the headers (not over the valve covers) with a marine exhaust system. Replacing battery cables is a good idea if the old ones are corroded. Make sure you get marine (tinned) cable of a large gauge size. Think 0 awg. Skip the LED's. 4. Speedo redundancy is for tournament use, (not turns, you ski in a straight line)- the pickups can catch a weed and you lose the reading. New boats either have digital gauges (2 water pickups but only 1 display) or have a paddlewheel system (not susceptible to weeds) or GPS. Do some troubleshooting to figure out if its a problem with the gauge or somewhere upstream. Swapping intake tubes at the gauges would be a good first step. The original VDO gauges are pretty high quality- Id make the attempt to keep them original rather than swapping them out. 5. The original switches also have built in circuit breakers. You can get replacements at a Nautique dealer like White Lake or N3Boatworks, or from an electronics supply house like Newark. Note the breaker rating (amps) for each one you replace. 6. Dont bother with a fake a lake. A simple tee in the water line to hook up a garden hose is simple, cheap, and effective. 7. Lots of threads on wetsanding and polishing... pictures would help identify how bad it is now. Searching would reveal proven methods to restore gel color and shine. 8. If you dont know the impeller's age or condition, pull the raw water pump apart and inspect it at a minimum. Get a replacement to carry on the boat as a spare. This is a maintenance item. Dont go overboard with so-called "upgrades" just yet. Once you get the boat running and working as it should, you may be surprised to learn that it's "everything you need but nothing you dont". Definitely resist drilling holes at all costs. Welcome to CCF... post pictures when you get a chance! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2011 at 10:04pm
Wow Tim. short answers but lots of them!! 
8er, We want pictures! make sure you get some as well as some text submitted for the CCfan diaries section. Also, add your first name if you care to in your profile. I feel once you've had a chance to spend more time on the site you'll realize most here use their first names. Welcome to CCfan. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: May-17-2011 at 10:09pm
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Welcome to the site. Cool boat project. The CC world is a small one, but you're in the right spot.
+3 on adding pictures ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: BFNSport
Date Posted: May-17-2011 at 11:25pm
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Welcome fellow BFNer
Jeff |
Posted By: mglines
Date Posted: May-18-2011 at 2:23pm
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2. on my 86SN there is a oil drain hose i run out the plug in the bottom of the boat when I change my oil not sure if the BFN has one.
Grats on the boat. I agree with what was said earlier. Get the boat running this summer then in the fall plan what you want to do to the boat then do it in the winter/spring. I started my project too late and may not get it done before end of july :( |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 12:52am
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WindX - Since your are the primary caregiver to this beauty, you might want to check the shaft alignment & packing gland adjustment. Pete B. has a great video on these items that you can find at the bottom of this site.
Have a great time with the boat this summer - just working on them is fun to me. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 2:30am
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Here's Hollies number,very helpful guy's. Holley Performance Products provides award-winning technical support via phone Monday through Friday from 8AM to 6PM CST, and Saturday from 9AM to 3PM CST @ 270 781-9741.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 10:06am
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I need to post the carb rebuild kit part number i purchased thru Napa "Sierra" nice kit and pretty complete.
I guess you wouldnt need to change the trans fluid, the tranny's are like the 4th kid you never wanted, neglected, last in line, left out of the family photo's ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 12:56pm
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2) You may consider getting an extractor pump, can be used for motor and trans fluid changes. Bought a Suk Up Pump several years ago, best one I have ever owned.
Use DexMerc in the trans, right Eric? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 1:52pm
The http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Extractor-Reinforced-Extraction-4-Liter/dp/B000MTB83M - fluid extractors work great.
When I got my 77, it came with the oil drain hose you put through the bilge hull drain. I tried it once but just couldn't keep the water from coming into the boat. I went back to using the extractor! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 9:09pm
Welcome! You're going to love that boat.  ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-19-2011 at 10:06pm
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Damn, Pete! I guess you didn't have a trailer? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 6:57pm
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OK guys, first of all - thanks for all of the suggestions. :) I've had a few other things come up in the mean time and am finally getting around to doing a few things in the next couple of weeks.
Here's a few pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/djmeier/BarefootNautique?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvC-7qclMWASQ&feat=directlink One thing I was wondering is that @TRBenj mentioned an electronic ignition. I'd like to do this - what should I get? My plan right now is the following: 1) Rebuild carb 2) Redo ignition 3) Change oil (motor & trans) 4) Filters 5) Try to fix the broken speedo sensor 6) Get all of the lighting working |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:11pm
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That boat looks pretty darn nice- and all original, as far as I can tell.
That looks to be the original carb and distributor- I might be inclined to do a water test before tearing into or replacing anything. That being said, the LIST-9394 carb takes a Holley 703-28 renew kit, and I really like the DUI distributor we're running in our BFN. http://www.performancedistributors.com/marinedui.htm - PerformanceDistributors Marine DUI The one thing I would definitely add to the list is to replace your riser gaskets. They look to be leaking pretty good externally, so better get new ones in there to prevent them from leaking internally... you dont want water in your cylinders. ------------- |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:22pm
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So for the distributor is this correct (I had been looking at the DUI based on another thread I found that you were talking about):
M12720 - All Small Block & Big Block Chevrolet V8's and C9051 - SB Chev - Under Headers ------------------------------------------------------- Also, where would you go about getting the riser gaskets from? Finally - is this the right bilge pump? I'm on a buying spree today. :) http://www.n3boatworks.com/eshopprod_cat_5045-68032-69650_product_868314.Bilge_Pump_Rule_500_GPH_Fully.htm EDIT: Riser gasket? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0099 And would it be wise to get the exhaust rebuild kit, or just the riser gaskets? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173091 Oh, and in terms of water test - I've driven the boat plenty last year. That's why I'm doing all of this this year while it's still out of the water. It needs to be done! Been neglected, or barely maintained, for quite a while. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:31pm
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Yes, that is the correct part number for the DUI. Im not sure about that p/n on the Livewires... you definitely want the under header wires, but those are for a small block. Might want to call and ask them if they have a BB version. The Livewires are really nice, but pricey!
Getting the full manifold kit is not a bad idea, but the one you have listed is for the 5.0/5.7. Call SkiDIM and see if they have a kit that fits the 454. That bilge pump should work well- we just installed the same one. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:35pm
Links don't work like other sites. https://picasaweb.google.com/djmeier/BarefootNautique?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvC-7qclMWASQ&feat=directlink - here's your link to the pictures ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
windexh8er wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:41pm
http://www.n3boatworks.com/eshopprod_cat_5045-68032-69650_product_868314.Bilge_Pump_Rule_500_GPH_Fully.htm - link 1 http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0099 - Link 2 http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173091 - Link 3 "Not Given",  Also not common with other site, we have a tendency to use first names!! If you want, fill in your profile!
I guess you don't want to let anyone know who you are?
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 11:28am
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Thanks for all of the suggestions guys!
So far I haven't made a ton of progress, but I'm getting there. This weekend I pulled everything out of the boat in terms of seating and then the long plank that covers the tranny, pipes and prop shaft. Things were rather dirty so I spent a few hours degreasing, cleaning and regreasing where appropriate - I can now see the original color of the fiberglass! :) In the mean time I ordered a bunch of things. Particularly a new bilge, carb rebuild kit, riser gaskets and a few electrical. I also did order the DUI7k and the LiveWires (although after talking to a guy who did my order I'll have to wait at least a week for that since they're swamped). Tonight I'm doing the carb rebuild, plugs, bilge, and riser gaskets. I'll get some updated pics of where I'm at. But - a few questions of course for the experts! I'm going to buy a new battery - I see that group 65 & 48 will fit the battery compartment. Any suggestions on type? I have a DieHard Platinum in my truck (gel) and love it. I know I don't need deep cycle for just starting, but figured I'd look for some feedback. Mainly on the size I should get... Next up is electrical panel. Wow, CC did a horrible job wiring all of the accessory switches. Once I got under there I was surprised at how bad it was. They have a main 12v feed coming into the very bottom breaker (blower switch/breaker) and they Y that off in a daisy chain recursively all the way to the top breaker. Have any of you replaced that cluster of daisy chained awfulness with a power bar? My thoughts are take the 12v lead and drop it into a power bar (similar to the grounding bar that's back there). I've just found that a lot of the splits, in their 20+ years of service, are getting rather fragile. As for plugs - any suggestions? On the sticker it states "AC#MR43T". What size flush T do I need (I forgot to check and am now not anywhere near the boat)? I'll also try to get some video after I get things fired up! :) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-28-2011 at 12:07pm
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1 week turnaround on the DUI is pretty quick... if it takes longer, dont be surprised!
Id go with a group 65 battery- they fill the batt box nicely. Im not married to any particular brand, just make sure to get a non-deep cycle. Ive got a bunch of Everstart MAXX-65N (Walmart brand) in most of my boats and theyve treated me well- good warranty and reasonably priced... though theyre a few bucks more expensive than they used to be. If you have a "ground bar" or bus, then its probably not original- but probably a good idea. I plan to add one to most of my boats (probably add power, ground and IGN busses) and get rid of the daisy chains. We had the MR43T's in our BFN. No need for the M (marine) designation though- the regular R43T's should suit you just fine. Your water inlet hose should be 1-1/4". Glad to see you gung ho on those riser gaskets... but dont be surprised if the bolts fight you and turn it into a longer project than you anticipate! Be patient and soak them if need be. ------------- |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:22pm
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Thanks for the fast update (as usual!). Per your advice I soaked the riser bolts overnight before I attacked them with some DeepCreep - the very last one was a PitA (go figure) but the rest weren't too bad. I was amazed at how bad those gaskets were and the chunks of material in the water side of the outflow. Clean everything out and scraped the riser and header down to shiny metal. However I didn't happen to get new bolts when I ordered the gaskets so I'm off to get some grade 8's to replace today.
I have the carb completely apart (save one piece) and cleaned up. The question I have though is to get https://picasaweb.google.com/djmeier/BarefootNautique?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvC-7qclMWASQ&feat=directlink#5623965113452797026 - this last plate off what kind of screw head is that? The only thing I ran across online was a Holley jet remover that looked similar. Do auto parts stores carry this? I haven't rebuilt a carb in years and wasn't sure. I can probably get them out with something else, but would rather do it right. Hoping I can get everything put back together this evening. Then all that's left is the electrical and throw in the new bilge. I read through the controversy that is feeding the boat water thread and all of the debate over collapsing hoses, etc. I think I'll swing over to Lowe's and build your setup TRBenj. 
Thanks much if anyone has any insight on that Holley question! |
Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:38pm
| I noticed on the carb that it is using the old style spring screws on the bowls. You will need to get new (updated) screws to replace those (if you haven't already). Nice boat Is the seat behind the driver a standard feature on the BFN? I like it, and I may want to do something like that on my SN. |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:42pm
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Really? Why's that (the need for new screws)?
I'll put up better pics once I'm all done, but thanks! I'm guessing it was standard. The upholstery on it is identical to the rest of it which is the only reason I'm making that assumption. I could very well be wrong though!
|
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:45pm
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Good move on the simple tee for the garden hose.
Those screws on the rear metering plate come out pretty easily with a large phillips screw driver... but Im curious if anyone knows a better trick! Those seats are removeable and were optional in BFN's starting sometime in the early 80's. They were called "judges seats". CC started offering something similar in those about 10 years ago and called them "jump seats". They work great as additional removeable seating... Im going to build a few some day. ------------- |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:50pm
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OK, good deal, I just didn't know if they'd be in there too tight and I didn't want to potentially wreck any soft metal.
So can I get away with reusing those screws? Or can I get something that's not a special order to use in place of? Was hoping to get it all done in the next two days. 
|
Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 3:52pm
| For the Secondary metering block, those are clutch head screws. You can get a small set for about 10 online. Apparently they can cause a leak situation, and the new gasket washers will not work correctly with the old style screws. The new screws are hex head. (I just rebuild mine about 2 weeks ago) |
Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-30-2011 at 4:04pm
Yep http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=512&cat=Clutch+Head+Screwdrivers - Clutch Head Screwdrivers
Thanks TIM, I am going to look into that a bit more. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-02-2011 at 8:59am
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I trimmed a small flathead screwdriver to fit those screws...works great. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: July-02-2011 at 11:26pm
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Well after a lot of late nights this week I got the boat back in the water. Everything was running much better when in the driveway then last year. The 454 idles much smoother now. I think, at this point, I'm lacking some tuning of the Holley though. In the driveway it would start right up, maybe with just a touch of throttle. I had it out for a quick run down the lake back to the cabin and it seemed to run well - although this is where I noticed one of the differences. About mid throttle there seems to be a rather large flat spot now. It pulls relatively well on the low end, then once the boat planes out and I opened it up there was a 4-5 seconds where it felt like a slow spool and then once I got over the hump it took off again.
Are there any good tuning posts, videos or any other reference material out there? Most of the stuff I've found was geared towards car tuning and I'm not sure most of it applies. The other thing is that the electric choke is cranked way past the markers that are all along the top. This is the way it was when I started working on the carb and, I figured after the rebuild, that I would be able to go back to the markings - but it refused to idle at all directly in the middle. The only thing I really adjusted on the carb was to make sure the floats were level and then adjusted the idle screw up from the 1/4 turn further open as suggested in the paperwork that came with the rebuild. Also - off hand how much oil does the PCM 454 take? I only got 6 in it before it said it was full. Oil pressure seems to be a bit high when running. Thanks much in advance gents!!! Oh - I also found out we have two of those "judges" seats that were original with the boat. So if anyone needs any dimensions let me know I can get more detailed pics of one out too if that helps. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 1:46am
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Yes, there are some good videos on you-tube. Look for excerpts from the holley dvd. Also, spend some time with the search feature here-use advanced search and check the parameters. Use 'any time' for the 'when'.
4-5 secs is almost a million. That could be several things probably; I'm not the resident carb expert. It does sound like you haven't spent a lot of time behind the wheel yet. An engine that's been sitting may still have some 'waking up' to do. Is the diaphram new? If not, it could be dried and/or stiff. Sorry if I missed it; how long has it been since it ran beyond what you've done? Not sure what's up with the choke. I'm guessing you know how it's supposed to work, so maybe age? Or did it come in the kit? Maybe the rod is bent a little? Mine holds almost 7 quarts. What reading are you calling high? Yes, it's a super ride and yours is in excellent shape; and while they aren't rare, not as many were made...even fewer with the BBC. Finally, I'd like to commend you on your approach to getting out on the water. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 2:24am
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Thanks BuffaloBFN - I appreciate the feedback!
I've been watching a lot of videos since I've posted and I'm thinking it may be the accelerator pump at this point, so I'm going to do a little tweaking tomorrow to see if I can resolve the problem. As for the electric choke I found one good article on how to adjust it properly so I'm going to give that a try. I think it may actually be broken or not working correctly however based on what I've read. I took it apart and it looked clean inside - but since I've only dealt with mechanical chokes in the past I was slightly confused as to how it was supposed to work. Either way I'll learn something from it I guess! To answer your question the boat has been in my wife's family for quite a while (over 10 years I believe). Although, taken care of cosmetically very well (stored, covered, winterized, etc) the mechanical side has been neglected somewhat. I don't think the carb was ever rebuilt based on what the gaskets looked like. Amazingly none of the diaphrams were ripped. So what I did was rebuilt with a kit - so all is new in terms of carb internals. The only thing I really ended up "tuning" while in the driveway (because it seemed to be running very well) was the fast idle screw. I didn't touch anything else (which, I found odd). Anyway, thanks for taking the time to reply - I'll keep plugging away on Google until I have a lot of suggestions to try tomorrow. Sucks that there's so much boat traffic this weekend, but it is the holiday I guess! 7 quarts? I was scared to put more in after I hit full when changing. I ran it for a few minutes, let it drain back down, checked and added another .5 quart (total of 6). Came to the full mark on the stick (almost exactly). Seemed low for such a big engine - my Tundra takes more (4.7 V8 comparably). 60 pounds is where the gauge seemed to hover. Odd thing is it didn't sway a whole lot on idle vs under load. So maybe it's another gauge I have to replace. So far both speedos now work (with new pickups), volt meter seems to be off (compared to a reading I get off a multimeter on the alternator) by about 2 volts (low), temp gauge seems to work (what's hot for this motor BTW?) and fuel gauge bounces around like a super ball (but at least gives somewhat of an idea!). Oh yeah, the tach works too. Thank again for the commendation! I like to do things the right way, and - at some level - I feel like I rushed to get it out onto the water for the weekend. But I told my wife I'll probably pull it back out if it makes sense to work on other things. Oh - and, when I changed the oil (used the 20W-50 VR1 recommended BTW) I couldn't find a passage down into the pan from oil fill. So I used the cheesy oil drain tube - took forever, so I changed the plugs and rewired the new bilge while it ran like molasses. Maybe nobody's used that tube in a while, but it seemed painfully slow (and the oil was still warm - had it running maybe 45 minutes prior). Lots to do still. I think in the next two years I'll have the boat figured out! I'd like to get it to a point where it's one of those 'coveted' old school boats. But, not having a good background in boating it's going to be considerably more work on my part! |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 2:52am
Pete, you need to get on plane so the oil and water are sucked out by venturi effect, the trick is replacing the oil at the right volume to match what is draining into the lake, then you can use that penis enlarger for its intended purpose. 4 liters should impress the ladys!------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 3:04am
I was thinking that the secondaries might not be coming in as soon as they should. That's why I asked about the diaphram. Sometimes the port can plug up too. I think the accelerator pump is more for initial kick at lower rpms, but I could be wrong.
From your pics you look to have a completely unmolested engine from the factory, so I'd assume you have the same pan that I have...but we all know about that word.
Or maybe the sender. Marine senders are different than auto. Ohms I think; others can explain it better. There's also the wiring issues that can affect any/all of the gauges(most). I run between 20 and 60.
What's your handle and what's your 20? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 3:28am
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@Overmyhead - are you on Lake Minnetonka? My wife and I will be moving back there in the next few months. Unfortunately the boat will stay at the cabin in SD.
@BuffaloBFN
Isn't the diaphram part of the pump (double pumper)? Probably getting at the same thing, my background for carbs are in 2-stroke sleds, so I'm probably off on my lingo.
So should I not trust the stick? I guess it may not have been perfectly level - but at the same time the engine looks like it's angled back a bit based on the motor mounts anyway. Hmmm...
Makes sense, I wouldn't be surprised if there were some noise on that circuit artificially pushing it up higher. I decided not to do the entire electrical because, knowing myself, I would have torn all of it out and done it from scratch and the boat would not be in the water right now.
Handle? My 20 is in SD. North of Sioux Falls where my in-laws cabin is. I'm more of a MN/WI guy personally. I'd rather be in the north woods!
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 3:38am
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I didn't say 'don't trust the stick'. Again, that engine looks all factory, so the correct parts should be there. Does your pan drain from the rear center?
The diaphram I mean is in the secondary vacuum chamber/pot. That mechanism opens the secondaries. Double pumper means it has 2 accelerator pumps. handle=name Cheesy old line from Smokey and the Bandit. SD...on my list of places to see some day. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 4:27am
I live within a few miles of the grays bay (east side) of the lake. We do take the boat on the lake several times a year. It is a cool boating lake but you have to search out small bays for water sports. The central lake nearly has whitecaps on a calm weekend day from the 50 footers cruising around. The company I work for has secured a good part of the Twin Cities high end wood floor market. I have worked on at least 100 homes on the lake some valued over 12 mill. It is an honor just to work on them, but there is nothing worse than pounding in floors looking out at glass water and no traffic on a weekday. I hope you enjoy Minnesota, let me know if you need a boat ride or a ski pull. Dave. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 12:00pm
Greg he went on the recommendation from Tim
From his google pic account I'm gonna guess it's David Meier Nice looking boat David... I really like those observer seats, pretty neat. Don't give up the fight, we'll get you back up and running puuuurrrrrrfect in no time. As far as what your voltmeter is reading on the dash as compared to what your multimeter reads straight off the alternator.....it's a common problem. They ALL do it. Common problem is the smaller gage grnd wire to the instrument panel from the factory. Your gages will probably peg to the right when you turn the nav lights on. Those here who have taken the time to fix it just went to a heavier gage gnd wire and it remedied the problem. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 12:33pm
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David,
Tim's correct with the wiring issue but I recommend going heavier on both the ground and the hot feed up to the dash. BTW, a 2 volt voltage drop isn't that bad with the factory wiring. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: windexh8er
Date Posted: July-03-2011 at 11:40pm
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Thanks guys!
So I'm pretty sure the electric choke is busted - which is why it's cranked to the leanest setting (always open). But the real problem is still the carb for now. I had my brother-in-law driving while I was watching and the secondary doesn't open if you are cruising slow and then hit it to WOT. It opens very slowly. I adjusted the springed nut on the primary pump - but I think I made the situation worse by lowering the amount of travel. Anyway - any thoughts on tuning in the secondary to open sooner? I think I might just need to buy a 4-barrel tuning guide at this point. Thanks and happy 4th if you're all enjoying fireworks tonight! EDIT: One thing I just thought about is the the baffle that's at the top of the metering block side that has the power valve. It's a small brass or copper piece - and I'm wondering if I had put that on wrong. Does the V of the baffle face up like a V or down like a ^? Just wondering if I may have put that on upside down. Just bugging me the throttle response is worse than before it was rebuilt. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-04-2011 at 7:37am
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That 'springed nut' is probably the accelerator pump. That's not related to the secondary and can kill throttle response if it's out of adjustment.
For the secondaries, you can replace the diaphram and maybe put a new or lighter spring in it. Take it apart first and see what's what. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |