Epoxy + xylene + rain (what to do now)
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21971
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 9:39am
Topic: Epoxy + xylene + rain (what to do now)
Posted By: Whitfield
Subject: Epoxy + xylene + rain (what to do now)
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 9:54am
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My home brew CPES cured about 1 hr and then got rained on for 4-5... What to do now?
Working on preserving some interior trim wood ~ I used Tim's CPES method mentioned in the Starflite resto thread. I mixed up 12 oz Epoxy with about 8 oz Xylene. Worked on prep until midnight (my epoxy had settled crystalized and needed to be heated / melted back to clear). Next, I checked weather (no rain in forecast / 10% chance). Spent the next hr painting my cherished upholstery trim backing with my penetrating epoxy mixture. Called it good at 1am and went to bed. Trim is out side on the deck laying flat face down on coat hangers. 4 am I awake to my daughter at my bedside and the house shaking from violent thunderstorms. Wife said it had been pouring rain the past 2 hrs. Now it is 6:45 and still thunder / lightning rain is just now letting up. ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Replies:
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 10:06am
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Looks like parts are still wll coated in Epoxy. Very sticky to touch even thru the wet / rain. Epoxy now has a milky film to it in places, water absorbtion I guess. Doesn't look like the water did much to wash off or displace the epoxy. I have the 2 pieces inside the house standing on end ~ as now showers are predicted to last all day. ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 10:14am
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Michael,
Taking a step backwards, what are you coating? The interior trim what? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 11:21am
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Sorry Pete ~ I'm working thru the reupholstery process... Upper Gunnel rails, Bow cushions, and dash trim to go along with my new driver and observer seats.
No good pics of the wood... it is the 1/4" thick dash upholstery backing. This wood was in good shape and the staples would not pull out by hand. Rather then cut new wood to fit my dash I decided to treat and preserve the original. You can see the dash upholstry in the pic below. The pieces were reuseable as is but I figured treat them now and they may last forever. This pic from the day I brought it home makes me cringe... Yuk!!  ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 12:25pm
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Michael,
Got it now!! I was worried that you were coating exposed wood like Teak trim. Epoxies turn white with UV light. They need top coating with something that has plenty of UV filters in it but even then, it will eventually go white. Your "brew" should eventually cure. I'd say the Xylene is slow to evaporate with the humid conditions. Give it some time. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 12:41pm
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Pete, do you think adding mild heat would be Ok to accelerate the process. ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 1:29pm
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Michael,
A warm dry place sure wouldn't hurt but it's probably not going to speed it up much. I'd just go and finish the upholstering. You did use the correct hardener and ratio correct? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 1:47pm
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Yes correct hardener and ratio.
It was a 2 gallon kit I ordered from polymer composites 3 yrs ago to re-lay a floor in my 1973 Glastron 19' outboard. I replaced the plywood floor with new wood and then fell into this inboard ski boat before completing the refloor project. I later sold my Glastron to a fisherman who prefered to use bedliner coating on the new floor. My grandfather (a glastron dealer) sold the boat new in 1973. I bought it in 1991 from the original owner and kept it 18 yrs. 
 ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Posted By: Whitfield
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 8:34pm
After work survey ~
Wood survived... Epoxy is dry to the touch but slightly tacky in places. May need a second coat. ------------- Michael .... I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-05-2011 at 9:18pm
| It's probably going to outlast the upholstery so I wouldn't worry too much. I did a divers seat base with CPES when I got my Centurion, the wood was completely rotten but the upholstery was good. I sold the boat this spring ( had it 7 years used it for 500 hrs) and the upholstery is bad, but that rotten base is still hard as a rock. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 8:14pm
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stupid question.. for a friend that need to coat some combing pad and seat bases, for the home brew cpes, you first mix the epoxy with the hardener (manufacturer instruction or other') and then cut it to the desired proportion with the xylene? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 8:35pm
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I did it the other way around (Resin+Xylene) so I would have more work time. I doubt it makes a difference. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 8:47pm
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mmmh not following you... you first mix the resin with the xylene and then add the hardener? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 9:39pm
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Yes. Then I added hardner last. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 10:31pm
| I prefer to work with the stuff a little below the optimum temp for extra time. The official way to add stuff is after the mixing is done to be sure that you get a good mix for curing purposes. The Xylene should extend the working and the curing time just like any other solvent would. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 10:48pm
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I agree with Chris to add the hardener last. This way mixing in the solvent will not effect the pot life. I've used quite a lot of epoxy through the years have always added fillers first then the hardener and have never had a curing issue. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-19-2013 at 8:43am
I've always done the exact opposite and have never had a problem either. ------------- |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: April-19-2013 at 9:41am
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This is pulled off my Epoxy suppliers Data sheet.....as we found to get deep soak/penetration you need to thin more I found 75-80% works well, the down side is it compromises bond strength so I go with first coat at 75-80% then a second at their 50% applied before the first is fully dry but not straight over the first coat to let it flash off. Wood wet out Work at decreasing temperature. For example start the laminate at midday and finish later, because when the wood is warm and dry, the air contained in it expand and get out (degassing). So if you laminate onto a warm substrate that is cooling down then the resin is sucked in by the wood. The first coat can be diluted with EP N° 217diluent (Xylene) SR 5550 / SD 5505 1 volume Diluent EP 217 0.5 to 1 volume maximum Advice : Mix the resin and hardener first, then wait 5 minutes @ 25 °C or 10 minutes @ 15 °C before dilution. Mix the epoxy system and diluent thoroughly for 3 minutes. Wet out the surface, the thickness should be as thin as possible to let the solvent evaporate quickly. Recommended tools : spatula, short-haired roller. Wait approximately half an hour before starting the laminating or bonding operations. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |