1983 ski natique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22051
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 12:28am
Topic: 1983 ski natique
Posted By: jellman83
Subject: 1983 ski natique
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 6:54pm
| I have an 83 ski natique that the side, upholstery plywood has rotted, what can I use to replace it that won't rot? also how hard is it to remove ski pylon, as it needs new ski loop or ball? |
Replies:
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 7:42pm
|
David
Welcome to the site. If that wood in the combing pads has rotted I would be worried about rot in the stringers too.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: dochockey
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 12:13am
|
Can you post some photos? ------------- 1989 Teal Ski Nautique 1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 2:31am
|
you can use treated plywood from HD or Lowes for your wood under the combing pads. you will have to splice them together since you can only buy 8' long sheets.
The tow bar can be hard to remove. First there are 4 bolts that are right below the floor. they are in the cradle. you will need to loosen them first. Second there is a cup in the hull of the boat where the pylon rest in. there is a bolt that goes thru the cup and the bottom of the pylon. you need to remove the bolt. if the pylon has never been removed before, it may be corroded so bad that you will not be able to move it. If you have the ring and finger on top of you pylon, DO Not use it as a tool to twist with. It is brass and will break. ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-11-2011 at 8:47am
I'd suggest going a different route. First, the ply used was pretty thin. I believe some was only 1/4". I feel you'd have a problem finding thinner sheets in treated. Second is the gluing of the butt block joint to make up the longer the 8' needed. Treated just not glue well. There are adhesives designed for the stuff but I wouldn't trust them. The best route that several here have used is to go with regular exterior ply, CPES and epoxy the butt block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
dwcar wrote: