1984 Ski Nautique project
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22083
Printed Date: November-30-2024 at 11:19am
Topic: 1984 Ski Nautique project
Posted By: ny_nautique
Subject: 1984 Ski Nautique project
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 2:25pm
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Hi everyone,
I recently bought a 1984 (edited the post... at first I thought it was an 85) Ski Nautique and have been working on cleaning it up over the last few weeks. I've been reading the forums a lot and I have a friend who has gone through stringer replacement and pretty much everything else I want to do already. Mechanically it seems fine but it needs a lot of TLC. This is not my first Nautique… I had a 1992 Sport Nautique from 1996-2001. I loved that boat and just recently started looking for another, really wanting an open bow. But, I found this one and knew of its potential for a nice wake and it was at a price I couldn’t refuse… so here I am. The upholstery is in horrible shape. My plan is to do stringers, floor, carpeting, upholstery starting in February. Until then, I will make do with the seats as they are. I have cleaned up the hull the best I can with On & off and it really is a lot nicer. I have some questions specifically for what I plan on doing the next few weeks: • How can I strip the blue accent paint from the hull? I want to get down to the gel coat (this is the version with the light blue gel coat). • How can I remove the stubborn registration stickers? I’ve been using a heat gun for the other stickers and pin striping but these are very tough. Same for the USA flag and Correct Craft stickers. • Suggestions on the best place to get a replacement rub rail. • Is this teak swim platform restorable? I’ve seen the threads with others that have redone theirs but mine seems to be worse. It just seems to have some really deep wear and a lot of cracked wood. Also missing one small piece. • Looking for suggestions on what color-matching gel coat patch to use. • I’m repainting the trailer also. Is there a specific color anyone has used to match that factory original blue? • Using the 3M marine rubbing compound, it really does shine up nice. But there are a few small cracks in the gel coat. What can I do to handle those… or do I just live with them? Thanks in advance! Jeff Here it is before bringing it home. First thing was to get a new hub for the trailer: 
In my garage, on the trailer. I have since taken it off the trailer and taken the swim platform off and it just fits. 
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Replies:
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:05pm
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here is your rub rail, brace yourself on price
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rubrail.aspx You can take the old rope out and soak in bleach water, that really brightened mine up and is a good free solution. As for your teak, it looks pretty bad, I used the starbrite teak resto kit and it worked well for the cleaning and bringing the color and shine back. As far as those cracks, I believe you could just replace the bad boards, looks like the one is on the underside so maybe you could live with that. I lightly sanded the top of mine to take off any rough spots or splintering then applied as the starbrite instructions suggested. There is a thred with some teak resto on it, I put my pics on there and many other people have discussed methods etc. Or save your money from the rub rail and get a new one from this site. My decals came off with a combo of heat gun, plastic putty knife and rubbing alcohol. Still tedious but I put my wife to work on that. Mine has many little cracks as well. I just sanded them down and polished with rubbing compound and you cant see them from 5 plus feet. The only way to repair is with gel coat patch. I used the MAS gel coat patch system works good still hard to match colors. Remember it will dry lighter so make it touch darker when wet, I think they are most all that way. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:14pm
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Jeff,
First I'd like to welcome you to CCfan and next, is wow, you sure have a "project" boat on your hands!! That Teak really looks bad. The ends even look like they are rotted. I've never seen one in that bad of shape - it's gone from the usual black mold to green!!! Pressure wash it (not too close or you'll chew up the wood) and see how it comes out. Then move on the the teak restoring kit if you feel it can be saved. Replacing just a few bad boards isn't the answer. They will never match the old. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:19pm
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Nice looking boat- it appears that JoeinNY has an in-state twin! Your boat appears to be a '84, FYI- they gelled the stripes starting in '85.
For the stickers, find yourself an erasor wheel. They make attachments to go on drills and grinders- they make decal removal a cinch... way faster than solvents and scraping. Do get some adhesive remover (goof off, etc) for the final clean up though. Hopefully youre not talking about removing the main blue stripes? ------------- |
Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:34pm
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Nice boat! Definitely and '84. No side vents and striped graphic, that would have been the only year like that. I believe the '85 had solid color graphics? The '83 had side vents.
What did you pay for that set? It will be a great boat once you clean it up. How long did it sit? I would suggest cleaning the gas tank and replacing the fuel/water separator and rebuilding the carb, (ask me how I know this :o( ) Tim |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:27pm
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Thanks for the quick replies guys. I have confirmed that it really is a 1984. Justin - I knew about that price... yeah that is a tough one. I had hoped someone had a better solution! As for the teak, yeah I thought it looked a bit worse than the others I've seen on the site. The one for sale here looks pretty nice. Maybe I'll just go with that. As far as I know, the boat did not sit at all. It has been in use most of its life, some heavy some light use. The most recent owner had it on a lake and never removed it (obviously). He used it very little the last few years, but claims to have always been winterized properly. It has a new impeller and I'm doing the cap, plugs, and wires. It starts up easy and sounds healthy. 2 weeks ago we had 90 degree weather and no rain so I had it out drying in the sun for 6+ days in a row. It is nice and dry. I spent my Sunday doing several applications of On & Off and I'm almost happy with it. I also spent some time removing drywall screws from the rub rail... I think there was a total of 12 of them. I'm afraid of what I will find once I take the rub rail off. Yes Tim B - I am talking about removing the main blue stripes. They are in real bad shape and I just want to start over with it. Tim - I paid $2000 for it. A few years ago I had a 92 Sport... I bought it for $21,000 and sold it for $22,000 5 years later with only a new prop and depth gauge added to it. Oh, another question: There is a storage compartment forward of the battery compartment. It had some water in it and there was a drain plug in the bottom. I used a coat hanger to find out where the drain went to and it seemed to not go anywhere... it stopped in the bulkhead where the battery drain plug was, but did not have a hole to drain anywhere... pics may help explain this better.. but I'm wondering - was it supposed to go somewhere or not? It seems awfully odd that it would have a drain hole on one end that seemingly just went nowhere. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:40pm
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wow thats a great price for a running boat, congrats man, you will have fun with it especially when you get it all fixed up. On mine (86) it has the numbers 86 in the Hull ID so I think if they are all that way it will tell you for sure.
What I have noticed about boat registration at least in ohio, is they know nothing about it and it could be definitely wrong. For example my title has "ski nautique" as make and model as blank. Even though I told the woman at the title agency what to put she still just stared at me and said well, I will just leave it blank. OK. Then when I told her the engine was a ford PCM 351 she just stared at me. Then I said, "Just put what I said". Yikes. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:41pm
Here's a quick drawing I did to explain that "drain to nowhere".
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Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:49pm
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I'll have to check mine. I think it should drain into the bilge. What is the hull ID, this will tell you what year it is for sure.
Are you going to put the stripes back on? |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 5:26pm
| Looking at the paint scheme between the 85 and 84 hulls, it does seem like mine is an 84. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:04am
| Wanting to get working on this soon so still hoping for tips on removing the paint stripes (to be redone over the winter) and what to use to wet sand with. Any suggestions? Thanks! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 9:34am
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the wifes not making you paint the garage first? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 10:21am
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[QUOTE=ny_nautique] Here's a quick drawing I did to explain that "drain to nowhere".
The water drains into the foam and then is absorbed !!! 
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Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:18pm
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Eric - it kills me to not have the garage finished! We're building a new house with a 28 ft deep garage that will handle my boat nicely. That one will be finished!
Gun Driver - yes, my thoughts exactly. A built-in wake ballast system before they were even invented! Simply put some ice in your cooler and let the boat absorb all the melted water... |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:33pm
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I used a festool random orbital sander with a 500 grit wetsand foam pad. This was the easiest way but you need to locate a sander capable of wetsanding. Alot of guys on here use the old wood block method which works, but also works your arm, especially if your gelcoat is as bad as mine was. My charcoal was more like light gray. My shoulder was almost shot after that and the buffing, had to take it easy for a week or I wouldnt be able to ski. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 1:34pm
For those that don't want to go for a real high end RO sander or don't have the compressed air for a DA, a regular RO electric works great. All that's needed is the hook and loop wet/dry paper or "Abralon" abrasive. I haven't blown a bearing out yet on my Porter Cable!  I do have a spare one available just in case!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Jllogan wrote:Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 2:50pm
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Is there a wet/dry paper for DA's? Or do the people who use DA's just not use water? ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 3:45pm
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Craig,
There are several hook and loop options that can be used for the final wet sanding and designed for it. I have the RO in one hand and a spray bottle filled with water in the other. I get all my abrasives out of http://woodworker.com/c-Abrasives/ - Woodworkers Supply Here's the http://woodworker.com/5-hl-micro-mesh-1500-grit-disc-mssu-125-315.asp?search=&searchmode=2 - Micro Mesh for when you're getting down to the final steps. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 6:58pm
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I just got some hook & loop wet/dry I ordered it from McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-oxide-sanding-discs/=cqx837 - http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-oxide-sanding-discs/=cqx837 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 1:55pm
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Started wetsanding by hand last night and it actually is going pretty easy. I tried to find the 3M eraser but couldn't. Heading out to a few auto shops right now to see if they have any.
I ordered a few things last night from White Lake and have my mom working on sewing up some seat covers :) My wife just wants me to buy the skins from Nautique skins but I didn't get a price yet. I'll post pics of the bilge cover... whatever you call the 3/4" plywood behind the engine. It was so rotted that it was in 2 pieces, with only the carpet holding it together. I can't wait to see what that foam looks like underneath! Tim - wondering if you got a chance to see where your ice chest drain goes to. - Jeff |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 2:32pm
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Pete and all,
What are your recommended stages for sanding/buffing? I started with 500 wetsand. What's next and when do I get to the 3M marine compound and glaze? |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 9:50pm
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If you ever need to remove stickers / decals the 3M wheel is amazing!
My local NAPA had several of them. Part number MMM 07498 I'm in the process of taking off the rub rail and wow is it in bad shape. Pics to follow. |
Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:09pm
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Jeff,
I confirm that the cooler drain comes out in the bilge beside the battery drain along the bottom of the bulkhead. Looking at the bulkhead the cooler drain is on the left and the battery drain is on the right. This in on an '83 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:14pm
Took off the rub rail last night. There were about 25 rusted drywall screws in there, through the rope. After taking the remaining 8,597 stainless screws out, I was left with this:
The starboard side isn't as bad but the port has a lot of these gouges. How can I fix these gouges? Simply a gel coat patch kit? BTW, here's the boat on stands in my garage. 
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Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:18pm
One more of the gouges. No idea how they got there but they stick up above the height of the rub rail.
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:35pm
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They got there when the rub rail was smashed down on a dock and tore out.. the screws when with it and caused the damage. Then they jammed it back down smashed it with a mallet and stuck some drywall screws into it to keep it down. I think patch paste is going to be your friend if you are really looking to take that boat back to glory. I would grind a groove all the way around the boat in the gelcoate just below where the rub rail will cover and only repair above the groove. That will keep the stress cracks from coming up from the holes for the rub rail screws. Anything above the grind line that is already cracked you would need to go down to glass there and repair with the patch paste. Then of course smooth, wetsand.. yadda yadda. If you want to come by and pracice on my 95 first I have the patch paste already on hand. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:56pm
Joe has the same idea that I do. A bolt or a pretty big nail sticking out from the dock. No bumpers and large wave action took out the rub rail and the bolt/nail went after the hull gel.  Some people just don't care!!! That is reflected with the dry wall screw "repair" as well!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 1:08pm
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Ahh, makes sense. Thanks. For patch paste, are you talking Spectrum Color patch paste? I just called them and minimum order is a gallon for ~$220.
Good idea about making the small groove. Tim - Thanks... I can't see in there so I'm going to take some pics tonight to see what it really looks like. There is certainly no factory drain going into the bilge there... from what I can feel with my hand. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 1:30pm
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Jeff,
For smaller quantities of gel, patch kits are available from almost any marne supply. They come with tints to match your color of gel - that's the tricky part!!! Also, check out http://minicraft.com/ - Mini-craft of florida for smaller quantities. They also have a color matching service (for a fee) but you need to send them a quarter size or bigger sample of your gel. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 2:06pm
| Thanks Pete. I did buy a color match kit last night. Hoping it arrives on Friday. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 7:40pm
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Dude I like you ambition but even if it arrives Friday you've got a ton of work to do before you’re ready for that step.
Joe’s synopsis of the rub rail screws is right on. My '85 when I bought it had a little section by the corner of the windshield on the driver’s side that took the same hit. Here's what it look's like under the floor in the battery box area minus a bunch of water soaked foam. 
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Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 7:49pm
LOL true... I just wanted to check the stuff out. |
Posted By: Chopper
Date Posted: June-17-2011 at 4:51am
You must be missing a couple of screws. All mine have had 8,600 stainless screws in the rub rail.
And of that 8,600 stainless screws, maybe 10 of them were not bent. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1540&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 98 Ski |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2011 at 11:35am
Yes! I couldn't believe how many were bent. Today was garbage day and I had to decide if I should throw them away or save them to be recycled. I saved them... |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: June-19-2011 at 12:58am
| iknow your swim platform has some cracks but dont be shy with a sander.mine was worse,i refinished every hole with a file,retrimed all the edges and grooves and then did the teak resto kit.it looks pretty good by anyones standards.wear a mask,that dust is nasty. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:29pm
It's Naked! The blue color is coming back and she's starting to shine. I'm taking Thursday and Friday off and will have some help those days so hoping to have a good amount done by the end of the Weekend.
What suggestions do you guys have for fixing the holes here where the bow intake vents mount? 
Thanks! Jeff |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-21-2011 at 7:33pm
| Oh one more question... I assume it is suggested that I fill in all the holes where the original rub rail was mounted. Is that a job for 3M 5200? |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 3:04pm
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Bumpity! Looking for suggestions on fixing those holes where the bow intake vents mount.
Also, what do I use to fill in the old holes from the original rub rail? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-22-2011 at 3:26pm
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The ideal way to fix those holes (both in the vent and rub rail) would be to put a layer or 2 of glass behind them, and then fill them with thickened resin. A high strength filler like microfiber or aerosil-cabosil would be best since you want to screw into the holes again when reinstalling. If you can reinstall the rub rail without fear of having to reuse any of the old holes, then you could get away with a sealer (like 5200) or filling the holes with a lower strength filler, or without having to backing it with glass first. ------------- |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: July-13-2011 at 3:23pm
Here's an update to my project:
I took it out for the first time this weekend and it ran OK. I had a few issues with restarting after it had warmed up which I will need to take care of. This is 2nd on the list now to installing a new impeller. The PO told us that he had just replaced the impeller and I should have checked, but didn't. We had good temps for the 2 hours I drove it early Sunday. Came back to the water later on Sunday and had an overheating issue. Had to be towed back to the dock by Jeff's 77 Nautique. (It was a good thing my mechanic was there! :) ). Last night I took off the RWP and cleaned it up so it is ready for the new impeller. Still to do this season:
Hopefully this will get me to the end of the season and I'll do the major stuff over the winter. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 3:53am
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I've been working on it the past few weeks with some significant progress this week. I'm hoping I can get a lot done on this 4-day weekend.
The foam on the passengers side is mostly dry. Definitely not saturated. However, scroll down to see what the driver's side looked like! Here it is before starting the work. I removed the gas tank today and the carpet and am ready to dig into the floor. 
Before I show you the floor, here are the 4 ports for the vents under the bow. Notice the right-most was capped off. Is this normal? 
Oh boy.. The observer side looks OK but the driver's side is quite wet. The boat hasn't seen water for 6 weeks yet it is soaked!
This was the base below the driver's seat. It just melted in my hands. 
Yup, that is standing water that I found after pulling the foam. 
I could squeeze water out of the foam...  ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 11:24am
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you know legionaires started from bacteria from an air conditioner, when i see the wet foam, thats what i think of ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:55pm
Yes, I've been in the hotel in Philly where it started.  There was some nasty standing stinky water that I found this weekend.
On to the pics... Here's my work area. It is nice to have so much room. I also have great lighting and a dumpster 20 steps away. 
Under the bow being chopped up. 
My 8-year-old son is the perfect size to fit under the bow and he was a great help. His pay was a new Wii game... 
The floor is removed under the driver's seat. Lots of delamination here... Next is to remove the cooler and battery box. 
Yuck. And here's my "drain to nowhere" from the cooler. In this pic the cooler is removed and rotated upside down. The drain fitting you see has a flat piece of plastic in it... it used to be a tube but now it is 2-dimensional.... So it was letting all of the water go under the foam. 
Wow.. nasty stuff! 
Here's my full dumpster: 
And here's how it looks now. Waiting for next weekend... 
------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: verdi1
Date Posted: December-02-2011 at 7:59pm
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Jeff,
Congrats on the progress looks good! I just bought an 84 SN myself and noticed the battery and cooler box held water, cleaned them all out and shoved a hose down the drain hole to nowhere! I can see a small slit in a what looks like a cross member in front of the boxes and this is where my trickle of water came out but maybe there was a flaw in design on the 84's or your boat and mine were rigged by the same idiot production worker. Do you have picture of what you discoverd as far as plumbing in that area? Just curious before I go running a flex bit through there to clean things out. Thanks for any help. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-03-2011 at 3:01am
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Yes, mine was small slit too. It felt like the coat hanger I shoved through broke through the glass/wood of the bulkhead.
I think I have a few more pics that may show it. I will post them tomorrow. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-03-2011 at 11:43am
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to give an idea of using foam as a structural part of a boat, unlike the correct crafts, Im tearing into a century, there are no stringers at all and a relying on plywood and 2 by 8's horizontally, as the engine cradle, and then inject foam into the structure. pretty cheesy. but it is truly an empty shell with no mains running front to back ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: verdi1
Date Posted: December-03-2011 at 1:07pm
Thanks for the insight, just seems stupid they would have covered up or left very little oppening in the drain holes in that area. BTW the capped vent hole you asked about in a picture is stock I would "assume" my 84 has the exact same set up, maybe a spare for a heater? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 11:53am
Eric, let me guess- that Century is a v-hull? The loading on a v-hull vs. a flat bottom are very different. CC built their v-hulls with shorter stringers and lots of horizontal bulkheads too. ------------- |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 1:16pm
Phil - the pic I labeled "wow nasty stuff" up above is the only other good one I have of that drain to nowhere. You can see the pipe running under the battery box - that was from the cooler. I never did get a good look at how it came through the bulkhead because it was so rotted by the time I got that out, it was falling apart. And, this was the only part of the boat that really smelled and I was gagging trying to get this stuff out of there! In the summer I stated that it felt like the hole was just poking through the bulkhead and it wasn't really a proper port. I still think that was the case. If you can get some light and a camera down by your pylon to take a pic of the bulkhead from the front, I would like to see it. You're probably correct on why the 4th port was capped. Good to know it was factory though. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 2:01pm
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A few more of my work this weekend. Everything is out. 99.9% of the under-floor foam is gone. I still have the nasty sprayed foam on the transom and above the bow.
Here is the support below the front starboard edge of the rear seat. It was completely soaked and rotted. The port side wasn't as bad, but still wet. 
Most of the foam comes out pretty easy with a shovel. 
Why would they leave this 3/4" void and fill it with foam! As you can imagine, it was all soaked and the water had nowhere to go but in the stringers.  ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 4:22pm
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Jeff,
Hey got your post and am responding about my us composites order. I spent alot time on phone with them as well as scouring the forum for a game plan. Are you going to go with an original floorplan or something different? Mine varies a little bit because I am going foamless with a plywood floor coated in fiberglass. My order (I will most likely have to make another) was 500$ plus shipping which ended up more like 600$. But my fiberglass and foam needs are going to be less than the original design. After talking with us composites to get a layup of original thickness you will need about 5 layers of glass on the floor. Also it will take about 3 16lb foam kits. He also said for estimating purposes a quart of resin per yard of fabric is a good way to guess for most fabric. Also I got the epoxy resin not polyester. Dont forget to order CPES for any wood you may have, they dont sell at us composites, or at least I dont think so. post any other questions and I (or someone I am sure) will try to answer. I still have my shopping list if you want more detail but I am sure I missed some things. Other things I ordered were, thickener pumps for resin mixing cups fiberglass roller tyvek suits and some pigments ( wanted to fool around with colored resins, ive got some ideas for some side projects mainly some custom speaker boxes ) ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: March-23-2012 at 6:09pm
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I'm finally at a point where I can post another update. Over the past few months I've been working mainly on disassembling the engine and cleaning up what I can. I've also ordered most of the seals that I need and carb rebuild kit so I'm ready once I decide what to do with the engine (do I just fix the one valve and spend the money on upgrading it next year, or do it all right now).. Anyway, since it has been summer in March for us this week, I took the opportunity to bring the boat to my house and work on the stringers. What better way to spend four 80 degree days than in jeans, a long sleeve shirt, breathers and masks! Here's where I left off in December and what I started with this week.  I cut out the glass from the stringers, drilled a few 1-inch holes and lifted them out with my engine lift.  As you can see, the stringers were still wet after sitting since labor day, and they were heavy. They came out perfectly though, so I have some great templates.  Then it was a matter of cutting the excess glass...  And grinding...  And grinding...  And grinding...  I used 7 or 8 flapper wheels on my angle grinder! When I removed the blower assembly, I was greeted by this INSIDE the blower.  The wasp nest in addition to the big holes in the hose probably meant very little air was being pulled from the engine compartment when I ran the blower.  ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: October-08-2012 at 2:06pm
You are doing a wonderful job. She was disater and looking great.  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: woodman935
Date Posted: October-13-2012 at 4:48pm
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Wow, what a project !!!. These are great boats, I owned one identical to this, never had any issues, just regular maintenance. I bought it from Correct Craft in Sacramento in 1987 with 120 hours on the clock and after 700 or so hours traded it in for a new 1996 in '96. I have a picture of "the blue boat" hanging in my office. My hull # CTC 15742 C 484. You will have a wonderful boat when finished. Woody |
Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: October-27-2012 at 1:47am
| nice work! i cant believe how much fiberglass you got to leave in your hull and get your stringers out.i had to get every last bit off and it was still a struggle.keep up the good work |