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leaking RWP

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22093
Printed Date: November-20-2024 at 12:21am


Topic: leaking RWP
Posted By: kapla
Subject: leaking RWP
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 1:37pm
Last time I went out I noticed the RWP had a leak at the shaft area...little drops leaked to the bilge...not much...the leak became weaker to completely stop as the engine got warmer...
So looks like a I need a rebuilt...
Looks like I need to order a couple of bearings and a seal kit!!! ...The bearing itself, you know if its specific or I can have it matched locally If I go with the old one?



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<a href="">1992 ski nautique



Replies:
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 9:20pm
When you take it apart, pay attention to the order and direction of each part. I would take the bearing to an auto parts store and let them measure and see if they have a match. The bearing in my Sherwood pump is the same size as a throw out bearing on a clutch for a car. So yours should be a standard bearing, nothing that was specially made.

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Tim D


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 10:05pm
Seb,
All bearings have a ISO number on them. Even though a bearing may have the same OD, bore and width, there are several different versions/materials of seals, shields of a combination of both. Go to a power transmission distributor if the auto supply can't cross it exactly by the ISO number. A throw out bearing for a car may get you in trouble!!

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-14-2011 at 10:34pm
Whats Spanish for Autozone

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 2:33am
Yes, you need a special marine bearing, with special coatings etc. that will cost 10 times what it should cost. My chit bearing has been working since 1993.

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Tim D


Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 3:00am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Whats Spanish for Autozone




Vatozone

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 3:28am
Kap, you'll do fine as long as you use quality parts for either the seals or the bearings. What you need to inspect closely is the pump's shaft is not worn or pitted were the seal and bearings ride, if so you can have it repaired or have a new one made.

Honestly, If I were you I'd wait until the dripping is persistant, it's not uncommon for pumps to leak now with the cold water running inside. You could have it completely rebuilt before summer session.
How's the temp gauge?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 10:06am
i searched and searched for a m88043 timken and the Bonerzone found one for me, easy number but 3 to 4 days away with my normal suppliers, i'll have it this morning to complete the additive filled ZF 630, i love those fcn additives, they account for my vacation fund every year, and the college fund lol, quite surprised to see a 630v in a 40 foot boat

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:


How's the temp gauge?


around 140-160....so it´s not sucking air....



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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Whats Spanish for Autozone




Vatozone


thats mexican...
down here its chabonzone....
actually there´s no big auto parts supplier like your market..there a few, like norauto, then its polarized in small auto parts stores, also divided in categories..ignition, engine, suspension, etc....
So you really needo to move around...

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 6:03pm
When mine started leaking, it eventually got worse and started slinging water up to the flame arrestor.

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Tim D


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-15-2011 at 6:06pm
I will keep an eye and eventually have it rebuilt..I think It was rebuilt 8 years ago...

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-16-2011 at 7:45pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Seb,
All bearings have a ISO number on them. Even though a bearing may have the same OD, bore and width, there are several different versions/materials of seals, shields of a combination of both. Go to a power transmission distributor if the auto supply can't cross it exactly by the ISO number.
I'd just like to restate the importance of getting the correct bearing and not one for another application. With the exception of a partial year of playing carpenter after college, all my work/jobs have involved power transmission components and the engineering that goes with that. Bearings are key to all and I feel I have a good understanding of them. This was my project from mid last week and into the weekend.

4K worth for two taper cups and cones:


Bearings we use are typically not expensive and there isn't a "marine" specific bearing that costs 10 times as much unless you shop for them at a marina. The ISO # is the key.



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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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