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Holly Carb Leaking Gas

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22414
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 10:22pm


Topic: Holly Carb Leaking Gas
Posted By: baumanmt
Subject: Holly Carb Leaking Gas
Date Posted: July-04-2011 at 9:27pm
I have a 1984 2001 and the carb is leaking gas out of the large holes on the secondary fuel bowl that look like they are filled in with epoxy. I know that is very laymen terms, but i'm not sure what the name of these holes are, but there are a few and they all seem to be seaping a little gas? Any advise would be appreciated, thank you in advance.

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gb842001



Replies:
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-04-2011 at 10:32pm
I think we need a picture!

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 8:56am
delete


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 9:41am


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 10:48am
At 27 it might be time to trade it in. Epoxy on such an important and potentially dangerous part would keep me up nights.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 11:31am
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

At 27 it might be time to trade it in. Epoxy on such an important and potentially dangerous part would keep me up nights.

I absolutely agree. Those plups lead directly in to pressurized ports for the fuel. If one lets loose, you'll have raw gas all over and a rather large potential for a big BOOM!!

Brian,
Please, no half azzed repair recommendations where safety is concerned. You may want to go back and delete your posts. I'd hate to see someone using the epoxy without reading this thread completely and then have a problem.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 11:51am
Exactly, that carb is at EOL. Don't let it end yours.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 1:25pm
Thanks a lot guys for the advice. I was hoping once everything got lubed again after sitting that it may swell and stop leaking, but it sounds like a new one is the way to go. Any recommendations on where to order it from and do I go with the same size or upgrade? Thanks again, I love this sight and all of the knowledge you guys share with us rookies. Thanks

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gb842001


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 1:46pm
Skidim.com sells marine Holley carbs. Just make sure you do not get an automotive carb. Without other major mods to the engine, I don't think that changing to another carb will enhance your performance any. Good luck!

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 1:57pm
Thanks a lot guys for the solid advice, I really appreciate it.

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gb842001


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 3:38pm
Why replace the entire carb if it is just the bowls?

http://www.holley.com/types/Fuel%20Bowl.asp - Replacement Bowls

I don't like half azzed, but I do like LESS expensive.


Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 3:46pm
Summit Racing sells marine carbs. And at a good price from what I've gathered.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique



Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 6:39pm
if you go with replacement bowls I would also rebuild the whole carb while I was at it. It will save you a few hundred over a new one, holley rebuild kit is 40-50 bucks plus your new bowls. How many hours on it? Is the linkage still good or is it worn loose?

Dont mess around with fuel leaks! When it comes to fuel on an inboard it always needs to be 100%. If there is any potential leak spend the money and fix it right. Its always cheaper than a new boat and a trip to the burn unit or worse a funeral.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 6:55pm
And 8 bowl screws, its going to have the springy ones.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

And 8 bowl screws, its going to have the springy ones.


It ran me around $78 for a rebuild kit and new bowls screws and a base gasket from DIM. (but that kit matched my list #) The kit from Holley was about 10 more. For the bowls, I would call Holley directly to get Marine replacements.


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 8:22pm

Please, no half azzed repair recommendations where safety is concerned. You may want to go back and delete your posts. I'd hate to see someone using the epoxy without reading this thread completely and then have a problem.[/QUOTE]    How do I delete this, Safety is # one


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 8:27pm
Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:


   How do I delete this, Safety is # one


Go to the post and on the top right of the input box there is an icon that looks like this- Post Options. Click on that and you get a drop down menu. Select Delete Post.

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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 8:52pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:


   How do I delete this, Safety is # one


Go to the post and on the top right of the input box there is an icon that looks like this- Post Options. Click on that and you get a drop down menu. Select Delete Post.

Keegan,
Thanks for then explanation about the delete option but you forgot to tell him about the "quote" option.

Brian, no harm done but we all want to keep on the safe side here and not make recommendation that aren't.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 10:13pm
gosh, if thats all it is from skidim, might as well get the fresh primary metering block from them too, then be guaranteed success. well, and a 5.5 or 6.5 PV!

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 10:19pm
Thanks for then explanation about the delete option but you forgot to tell him about the "quote" option.


I think I've figured it out, not sure!   Im still trying to figure out my Diaries ID # so that I can post a pic of my boat next to my post



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-05-2011 at 10:31pm
Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:

Thanks for then explanation about the delete option but you forgot to tell him about the "quote" option.


I think I've figured it out, not sure!   Im still trying to figure out my Diaries ID # so that I can post a pic of my boat next to my post


Brian,
There are little icons you can click on at the top of every one of your posts. Try them out and see what happens.

BTW, if you can't figure out how to use the "delete", I will ask Keith to do it for you. Sorry but I feel your recommendation to use the hardware store epoxy on such a big safety issue is just too risky to pass on in a forum.

BTW, haven't you been though computer training from the army???

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 12:20am
LOL!! Im not very computer savy, but I know just enough to get around and post pics on the internet. I may need to take a FREE computer class that the Army offers. But as an Infantryman we spend all our time training in the woods. We are the "backbone" of the Army. I really want to show my boat off and show you guys how awsome it looks. This winter im pulling the PCM 350 and re-building also with a new Carb!!! ; )   So when you open the engine cover it looks like it came from the factory back in '84,, everything brand spankin new. So in the near future I will be posting pics on the re-build and im sure I will have questions! Sorry for the non-safe advice


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 9:54am
I'll measure the hole sizes today and we'll have the Grandmaster "Pete" pull out the Mcmaster Carr catalog.
they should be a dished welsh plug that you would Anerobic seal the outline and tap in

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 3:22pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

gosh, if thats all it is from skidim, might as well get the fresh primary metering block from them too, then be guaranteed success. well, and a 5.5 or 6.5 PV!


Just checked the invoice last night, it was actually $72.81 for all new bowl screws, the rebuild kit, and the base gasket. Shipped. I thought that was a great price.


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 3:43pm
Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

gosh, if thats all it is from skidim, might as well get the fresh primary metering block from them too, then be guaranteed success. well, and a 5.5 or 6.5 PV!


Just checked the invoice last night, it was actually $72.81 for all new bowl screws, the rebuild kit, and the base gasket. Shipped. I thought that was a great price.


I don't see it that cut and dry. A new primary bowl from skidim is $79, plus the rear bowl , plus the rebuild kit plus the time to do it and when your done you still have a 27 year old carb with fresh gaskets.

FWIW, I just think in this case I would spend the money and go new.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: TimSpangler
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

gosh, if thats all it is from skidim, might as well get the fresh primary metering block from them too, then be guaranteed success. well, and a 5.5 or 6.5 PV!


Just checked the invoice last night, it was actually $72.81 for all new bowl screws, the rebuild kit, and the base gasket. Shipped. I thought that was a great price.


I don't see it that cut and dry. A new primary bowl from skidim is $79, plus the rear bowl , plus the rebuild kit plus the time to do it and when your done you still have a 27 year old carb with fresh gaskets.

FWIW, I just think in this case I would spend the money and go new.


I suppose if you have the money to spend, then sure just buy new, sell the old for a few bucks and call it done, however, a 27 year old carb with 1300 hrs will be a bit different than a 27 year old carb with 600 hrs. I suppose it comes down to the condition of the carb.


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-06-2011 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

gosh, if thats all it is from skidim, might as well get the fresh primary metering block from them too, then be guaranteed success. well, and a 5.5 or 6.5 PV!


Just checked the invoice last night, it was actually $72.81 for all new bowl screws, the rebuild kit, and the base gasket. Shipped. I thought that was a great price.


I don't see it that cut and dry. A new primary bowl from skidim is $79, plus the rear bowl , plus the rebuild kit plus the time to do it and when your done you still have a 27 year old carb with fresh gaskets.

FWIW, I just think in this case I would spend the money and go new.


I suppose if you have the money to spend, then sure just buy new, sell the old for a few bucks and call it done, however, a 27 year old carb with 1300 hrs will be a bit different than a 27 year old carb with 600 hrs. I suppose it comes down to the condition of the carb.


I don't disagree but this is where my advice is coming from.

Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:

LOL!!   I really want to show my boat off and show you guys how awsome it looks. This winter im pulling the PCM 350 and re-building also with a new Carb!!! ; )   So when you open the engine cover it looks like it came from the factory back in '84,, everything brand spankin new.


Why rebuild it now and replace it this winter?

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: 84SN2001
Date Posted: July-07-2011 at 1:33am
Why rebuild it now and replace it this winter?[/QUOTE]

Im re-building the engine and replacing a few new parts including the carb. The reason I mentioned the carb is because I posted a bad post because of safety.   I had the same prob this spring with my carb and I fixed it with no prob and it works awsome! But the way I fixed it is a safety issue. It will hold and work just fine until I replace everything. LONG STORY


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-07-2011 at 1:44am
Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:

Why rebuild it now and replace it this winter?


Im re-building the engine and replacing a few new parts including the carb. The reason I mentioned the carb is because I posted a bad post because of safety.   I had the same prob this spring with my carb and I fixed it with no prob and it works awsome! But the way I fixed it is a safety issue. It will hold and work just fine until I replace everything. LONG STORY[/QUOTE]

and now I see I have this guy and the original poster mixed up so do whatever you can afford, what a cluster.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: bad habit
Date Posted: July-08-2011 at 3:59pm
I just had my 4160 rebuilt. My press in welds were leaking too. ( both primary and secondary )My buddy owns a automotive machine shop and ordered the bowls from Holley. He said they were the only place around that had them on the shelf. It took them almost two weeks to get them here. He went ahead and put a renew kit. Holley was the cheapest on the bowls but he does have a account there. ( 8122pbrainard the bowls were M-A-R-I-N-E ). All n all Monday we took my excel out and it run like a rock star. To me there was no sense in replacing the carb. Basically everything on them is replaceable.I didnt any problems before with the carb. As long as u have someone knowledgeable and trustworthy building it what more can u ask for.



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