Shreading Impellers
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2247
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 3:44pm
Topic: Shreading Impellers
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Subject: Shreading Impellers
Date Posted: August-15-2005 at 2:04am
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My 70 Mustang eats impellers and I can not figure out why. The engine is a Holman Moody 302 Ford and it uses a #1210-0001. I think the problem might be the front of the impeller closest to the Ski Pylon drags against the housing plate and it rips the fins right off. Has anybody else experienced this, and what should I do to fix it? ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Replies:
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: August-23-2005 at 6:39pm
| My '84 2001 ate impellers like candy from the first day we put it in the water. After several summers of overheating; we, (not the dealer or Correct Craft), fiqured out that it was the pump itself. It had a sharp edge in it and it cut the impellers to shreds. A new pump fixed the problem -- however our motor suffered severe damage and had to be overhauled. Neither the dealer or Correct Craft would stand by their product. We corresponded with Mr. Meloon with no resolve. I still have the boat and I still prefer Correct Craft over all others even after spending thousands on it. I'm going to put it in the diaries section when I have time to write a book. Ha! Long story short; replace your pump. |
Posted By: DAVEG
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 12:15pm
| my 1982 SN 2001 overheated and melted the hoses the first day I put it in the water. Partly my fault for not keeping an eye on the gauges, but it was the pump which was promptly replaced. Now, it still runs hot with the thermostat in and will overheat, runs fine without, stays down about 120. One marina replaced the pump again, tried another thermostat, tried to flush out impeller pieces, but now says it needs to be taken apart to find where it is blocked. A correct craft dealer told me I can run it w/o the thermostat for now as long as the temp is low and bring it in the offseason. There is no computer chip or anything that will have trouble at low temp, but they believe they can get the blockage without major engine rebuilding (heads?). Conflicting reports, not sure what to do, I am no mechanic. it does run great as is, but I am concerned. the dealer who says they can fix is 3+ hours away, and they are 3+ weeks backlogged. summer would be almost over by the time I have it back. |
Posted By: Mercrewser
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 12:43pm
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Have you tried hooking a shop vac up to the tstat housing? I was shocked at the ammount of junk that it pulled out. I vacuumed out every hose fitting on the engine and got junk out of each one. My 37 year old engine pumps water great, WITH the original manifolds and risers. ------------- 1969 Chris Craft Commander SS #39 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 12:49pm
Barry, is your pump on the crank?
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 1:19pm
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Tim D,
Love that old Holman Moody, that baby looks nice. I had a 302 HM in an old MC and it went like heck. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: DAVEG
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 1:21pm
| you mean if I remove the thermostat, and just use a shop vac to suck it out? anything I need to worry about? I mean, it makes sense that if water pumps through, there is nothing I need to worry about sucking out of there. I won't yank out a ring or gasket? Again, I am no mechanic no control the laughter, but this is Brilliant! |
Posted By: DAVEG
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 1:30pm
| About using the shop vac, I would need to pull my boat out so I won't be sucking the lake water into my vac if I leave it in due to the intake? Remove any plugs or anything? Or can I do it right at the dock. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 2:02pm
Alan, that isn't my motor, it's the one that beat me in a show(cleanest). Here's mine.
Most HM's had the raw pump on the crank, mine is an Interceptor with a raw pump on a bracket opposite the alternator. But mine has roller rockers.  ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: June-27-2006 at 9:49pm
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Tim,
Yes, my 1970 is on the crank. Your engine is identical to my 1970. However my 1972 has a water pump just like an automobile. The raw water pump is in front of it. Both are Holman Moody Engines. ------------- Barry, South Carolina |
Posted By: fredo68
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 10:29am
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tim d
that looks like the motor in my 68 mustang mine is running a little hot. what impeller does that take? or how do you tell? fredo68 ------------- fredo68 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 10:37am
My motor showing is a 66 Mustang. The raw pump is a Sherwood. If your pump looks like mine, look on the back, you should see Sherwood and a number. Here are some impellors I have used.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: fredo68
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 11:26am
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timd
is that a brass impeller? ive had the boat for 13 years and never replaced it. it has been reading 165-180 on gauge, where should it be reading. thanks very much. fredo68 ------------- fredo68 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 1:47pm
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It is a brass pump. The impellor is rubber. I use a 140 thermostat. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: fredo68
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 2:26pm
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thanks tim
any tricks to making the installation of impeller go smoothly? ------------- fredo68 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 3:17pm
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First, take the pump off the motor. Just loosen the bolts that hold the bracket on the motor and bump it and get slack in the belt, then remove the pump from the bracket. Take the small bolts off the back plate on the pump. Be careful, take it off slowly, there's a spring behind the impellor that holds the seal kit in place. Also watch the key that's on the shaft that the impellor locks onto. Put a little soap on the new impellor, start pushing it in place with a clockwise turn, line up the shaft key and then push it all the way in. Then install the back plate, line up the two pins, push in on spring and impellor and put in the small bolts. Oh, the back plate has a paper thin gasket. When you put the pump back on, don't get the belt too tight. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: fredo68
Date Posted: June-29-2006 at 3:43pm
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tim
thanks for taking the time to perfectly describe the how to. if one didnt know better id think youve done that before. thanks again fredo68 ------------- fredo68 |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-30-2006 at 6:01am
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You want to run 160 t0 to 180 degrees not low CC changed this in 1997. When you install the impeller be sure the ramp is smooth, and put some wd 40 to help priming. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: DAVEG
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 2:33pm
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hi Mercrewser,
not sure if you saw my last question about using the shopvac to clean out tstat housing. Not being a mechanic I don't know what I'm doing so I know my questions must seem dumb. Is there anything I need to watch out for when doing this? Will anything come popping out when I remove the thermostat housing, and do I need to have the boat out of the water? Thanks! |