97 sport shaft coupler removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22505
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 8:33pm
Topic: 97 sport shaft coupler removal
Posted By: AussieNorts
Subject: 97 sport shaft coupler removal
Date Posted: July-09-2011 at 1:40am
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Hello guys,
i have been looking at the strut bearing and realized i need to change it, i have read all these posts about alignment and under stand it, i checked the alignment before i started it is good. However i am wanting to pull the shaft and get the guys at work to check in on the lathe for straightness. My question is and i hope Eric Lavine can chime in for me, i just need some reassurance that the method i have read and am using will not damage the output shaft of the transmission, i plan i putting a lot of penetrating oil and some heat to the coupler as i apply pressure? I hope someone has some words of advice i really do not want to damage my trans.   ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-09-2011 at 12:44pm
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start cranking! the tighter they are the better, seen many slide right off from MA which means no good. at times you may have to put pressure on it and hit it with mapp gas or a torch, but be careful cause those gas fumes like to linger low in the bildge. once you pull it and check for straightness i will usually re-set the coupling on the shaft and chuck it in my lathe and take a face cut to true up the coupling to the shaft and then press it back off. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-09-2011 at 1:13pm
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-09-2011 at 9:42pm
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Thanks to the reassurance Eric. I will begin the cranking today, I will post pics from the job. ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-10-2011 at 9:43pm
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Well after ALOT!!!! of cranking i finally got it off. I suppose that the alignment was good and the coupler being so hard to get off are all positive, meaning it looks as though things were running true. I aim to get the prop pulled(waiting on a prop puller) then i will get the shaft out and check, So when i remove the old cutlass bearing, i am guessing i have to remove the set screws on the side of the strut before trying to cut the cutlass with a hack saw blade right? Does anyone have a size on the set screws in the strut? What do i need to remove them? ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-11-2011 at 8:59am
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Most of the set screws are 1/4" which needs a 1/8" hex wrench. Some of the older struts have slotted head set screws in them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-21-2011 at 7:59pm
Thanks Pete, i am aiming to remove the cutlass bearing this weekend. I have removed the shaft now from the boat and will get the guys at work to put up in lathe to check straighness. However i have noticed a considerable amount of scoring on the shaft especially where it was passing through the cutlass bearing and the packing gland area. I have posted some pictures for some reference. In the area where it passed through the cutlass there is a noticeable step in the shaft, should i be concerned about other parts now i have identified this?   ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: July-21-2011 at 11:05pm
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Steve I would replace that shaft now it is out. The wear could have been caused by misalignment so check the alignment when you get it all back together. If the shaft is that worn the cutless bearing (skeg bush in Oz) must be in bad shape.
The double taper shafts are the way to go if replacing but shipping from US will make it an expensive option. Justin (Nevergrew) had a new prop shaft made by http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/p/330065/propeller-shafts-1.html - Cassell Marine for his 89 SN2001. It was not a double taper but used the split coupling like the ski boats with soft clutch setup. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-25-2011 at 1:01am
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Mark,
Thanks for the link to Cassell, i am a bit unsure if they will get it right, I have purchased a new prop from Acme and i want the taper to be right, the guys a Cassell asked if it was Morse taper and i think it isn`t as that is not the american taper, do you think they will get the Key ways correct for the coupler. I bought i new coupler from Ski DIM so I want to be able to use that coupler on my new shaft. Cause the shaft i need from the US will cost me $328US plus shipping so it is like a $400US+ shaft by the time it gets here. Any thoughts Mark, by the way my girfriends family are all from Tamworth, she is always telling me we should go down to ski on KEEPIT for a holiday. ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2011 at 9:57am
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Steve,
I agree with Mark on replacing the shaft and yes, the ARE double taper is the way to go. Your old shaft is just to scoured up to be reliable. Don't worry about the taper for the prop. All props will fit any boat shaft tapers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nevergrew
Date Posted: July-25-2011 at 3:25pm
Steve - when I ordered my shaft from Cassells, I told him I was running an Acme prop. The prop taper was never a concern. From memory, the shaft was 200 bucks and the new split coupling was 150. I bought a new fiber skeg bush for bugger all as well.
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Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-25-2011 at 7:50pm
Thanks for the input guys, i removed the strut from the boat last night and as you can see from the pictures the cutlass bearing was worn on the prop side of the the strut. However the input side of the strut did not seem that worn, i am going to get the old ones pressed out and new ones pressed in today at work. This project started off at checking alignment that has ended up in me removing the shaft, coupler from shaft, rudder, strut and now i have identified a small leak in oil pan, so motor is coming out next week,. I should be able to get a good alignment from changing all this over. Considering putting in a dripless shaft seal, what are peoples thoughts on these? Check out the pics
 ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 6:24am
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Pete,
I am having trouble sourcing the set screws for the strut here in Australia,(we being metric and all) I believe they are 8 guage-32UNC 3/16 hex head grub? Do you know of a place i can source online? Or if i send someone the money are they willing to send me some? Such a small part but a large pain to find. Mark do you have any thoughts where i could source I have tried the Nut & Bolt Factory in Queensland, they usually have it all but they had nothing this small. ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 7:07pm
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Steve,
Drill and tap them to the next larger metric size. It may be easier. BTW, most of the set screws I found to be 1/4-20. Don't woory about me coming down on you for not having original sized set screws!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 7:51pm
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Pete,
Thanks for the advice, yeah was not sure if i would get ribbed for changing there size. I have also noticed now that the cutlass bearings i have are shorter than the ones removed, and will only be able to get one set screw into each one they are only shorter by less than half an inch, will this be a problem do you think? Steve ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 9:51pm
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Steve,
The cutlass bearings are typically more of a press fit into the strut. It doesn't take much of a set screw to hold them in and keep them from rotating. Go for the metric "conversion!!! WTH, I thought you when still on the inch system with your close connection to the "mother isles"!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |