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Trailer Question: Carpet or Checkered Plate

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22610
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 8:34pm


Topic: Trailer Question: Carpet or Checkered Plate
Posted By: karthur
Subject: Trailer Question: Carpet or Checkered Plate
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 3:22am
My '87 SN has wood/carpet around the fender wells. Both are in bad shape and I want to repair it. Was considering using aluminum checkered plate instead of replacing the wood/carpet.
I have noticed on some pics some have the checkered plate but is painted the same color as trailer. I think the one I saw was a '86 SN. Did Correct Craft use this or is this something that someone has put on their trailer?

Any thoughts about me doing this?




Replies:
Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 11:24am
newer trailers sometimes come with the diamond plate - your 87 would have come with carpet.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=4472" rel="nofollow - '89 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 11:59am
I replaced the carpet/wood (rust magnet) with aluminum diamond plate. Cost a couple hundred, but will not hold water.

I just left it bare metal - no maintenance req'd!

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: karthur
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 2:22pm
Just started taking some measurements. The wood on my trailer is 9ft long. Thought that I could get it all out of a 4'x8' sheet but I might not be able to. Will probably end up with two joints on each side right there where the brace is that goes back to the main frame.

Was thinking about using 3/16 thick diamond plate. Should be thick enough, right? Prime the underside with self-etching primer and paint black. Mount it all with stainless bolts with locking nuts.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 4:02pm
Kirk - I did not use the diamond plate behind the fender, just forward & to the rear. For the area behind the fender, I used some glassed plywood, painted black. I used 1/8inch aluminum dia plate. Are you using steel? 3/16 steel plate will add some weight!

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 5:04pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Kirk - I did not use the diamond plate behind the fender, just forward & to the rear. For the area behind the fender, I used some glassed plywood, painted black. I used 1/8inch aluminum dia plate. Are you using steel? 3/16 steel plate will add some weight!

Thread plate gets confusing with thickness since different manufacturers have a tendency to measure thickness different. Most include an average height of the diamond portion in the base thickness. So, 3/16 may not be as thick as you think. BTW, it does come in 10' sheets. Unless you have a plasma torch, I suggest aluminum for the ease of fabrication. It cuts with a carbide blade in the hand held (Skill) saw.



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: karthur
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 7:10pm
Peter,
I sketched out the shapes that I will need and I will make paper templates today just for a trial fit. Should be able to get both sides out of a 8'x4' sheet. Once I get the fit that I want, I will use a CNC plasma to cut them out. Definetly using aluminum...thought I would prime/paint the bottom, just so it wont corrode between where the alum comes in contact with the steel frame.

Thought about cutting out a SN or Correct Craft emblem in there if I can find one I like.

Will be putting the factory fenders back on.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 7:28pm
Kirk,
Fantastic you have access to the laser. After my previous post, I was still confused a little about you wanting to go aluminum or steel tread plate. I guess the painting of the bottom is what trough me off. The picture of the trailer I posted was an old MC trailer that had been jack knifed and I did a rebuild on to haul my X55. I bedded the tread plate down to the steel with silicone. Yes guys, this was 30 years ago before I learned that the stuff is c**p. However, it's still holding!!

I feel you'll get better protection of the aluminum by bedding it to the steel frame with some 5200 rather that going the paint route. I learned along time ago with a land Rover aluminum body against a steel frame you WILL get electrolysis. The aluminum is sacrificial!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: karthur
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 7:41pm
I was concerned about corrosion, but you are probably right about using the 5200 instead of the paint. If the paint/primer rubs off, then the corrosion would start.

Dont have access to a laser (that would be sweet). Where I work has a Hypertherm plasma that works pretty well on the thin stuff.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2011 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by karthur karthur wrote:

I was concerned about corrosion, but you are probably right about using the 5200 instead of the paint. If the paint/primer rubs off, then the corrosion would start.

Dont have access to a laser (that would be sweet). Where I work has a Hypertherm plasma that works pretty well on the thin stuff.

Sorry, I said laser and not plasma! Still, cool. You'll get the needed cuts without lots of work.

As long as you are doing this project, do you have any press breaks at work? You may want to consider turning the edges down and up like I did.

Don't expect the tread plate to be as bright and hold it's shine for very long (as evident by my trailer). All the tread plate on the fire trucks you see has MANY man hours of detailing with the Flitz metal polish. Of course, they have the time to do it!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: karthur
Date Posted: July-15-2011 at 11:18am
I did notice how you broke the edges. That looks nice.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-15-2011 at 11:41am
The aluminum does brighten up a bit when washed with Vinegar solution (I use this on the boat occasionally). FYI.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: July-15-2011 at 1:12pm
My 86 trailer had the diamond plate on it and I welded a piece of diamond plate on top of the fender for traction and continuity. Just a thought if your fender is smooth now.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-15-2011 at 2:19pm
Originally posted by karthur karthur wrote:

I did notice how you broke the edges. That looks nice.

I did all that with the Skill saw and a hand break!! I didn't have the luxury back then like I do now working for a metal stamper fabricator.   

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: karthur
Date Posted: July-19-2011 at 1:45am
I got a quote for 4'x10'x0.10 aluminum diamond plate for $125. Pulled the wood off today and did some measuring. Gonna make some paper templates first, then I will get the sheet cut out.
The .10 thicknes is not including the thickness at the diamond. It is the nominal plate thicknes.



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