Prop puller?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=228
Printed Date: September-28-2024 at 11:42pm
Topic: Prop puller?
Posted By: nauti girl
Subject: Prop puller?
Date Posted: March-15-2004 at 3:41pm
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Do I have to buy a "prop puller" to swap props? I removed the nut and tryed gently tapping on the hub, but it won't move. Is there an "easy way"? ------------- Nauti Girl --I think my husband uses his own login now! |
Replies:
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: March-15-2004 at 8:19pm
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You need to have a pulled otherwise you will damage your shaft. I just bought one off Ebay for $50.00 shipped. The guy was really nice and shipped it fast. I think he makes them or something so it was cheaper. I popped my prop off no problem. If you need some to fix your prop, check this guy out.. He is awesome, very straight forward guy. He take any prop you have and change the pitch of it.
http://www.marinepropellers.com/ Tommer 84' Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: boatnut
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 2:29am
| Sometimes, if you use a board ,2-3 C clamps and some imagination the prop will come off. Extra hands are good for this. |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 2:40am
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for those of you that have never pulled a prop, be sure to just loosen the nut ONLY a couple turns. it can be pretty violent when they come off.
follow the proper procedure on the re-install to make sure the prop is seated.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 2:43am
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reinstall procedure? I thought you just had to push the prop back on and it should seat itself.. (when lined up correctly) is there something special to mount it back on?
thanks! |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 3:28am
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I know this is going to sound crazy but remember to lightly grease the shaft before you put the prop back on. This will make it alot easier to pull next time. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=250&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000%20" rel="nofollow - 2000 Ski |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 11:36am
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put the prop on without the key first and tighten. mark the shaft at the strut side of the prop with a felt tip pen.
remove the prop and re-intall with the key. make sure the prop bottoms out and is flush with your previous mark. the fit with the key is tight tolerance fit and sometimes tightening the nut will not bottom the prop on the taper. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: nauti girl
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 8:31pm
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Thanks for all the great advice.
Any recommended nut-torque for the re-install? ------------- Nauti Girl --I think my husband uses his own login now! |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: March-16-2004 at 8:35pm
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actually, I dont think you have to torque the nut because it is brass and it also has a key that needs to be re-installed. Make sure you have new cotter key or if your cotter key looks good, reuse it.... but I have seen keys fall off from rust, etc. (unless you have stainless cotter key)
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Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: March-17-2004 at 12:59am
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There are no formal Torque specs. I agree with Toomer12 Tighten untol the prop reaches the mark you made without the key Then align the nut so you can get the cotter key in. Repplace the coter pin each time you replace the prop. Use a stainless pin. Why lose a $300 prop to save $2 on a pin. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=250&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000%20" rel="nofollow - 2000 Ski |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: March-17-2004 at 1:42pm
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i use a nylon lock nut and no key on the '72.
double nut with a cotter on the '60. the prop on the '69 will bend the stainless ironmann puller.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: nauti girl
Date Posted: March-18-2004 at 4:45pm
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I borrowed a BIG 3-prong gear puller from the "loan-a-tool" at the local cheap parts store we all hate. It worked GREAT! ------------- Nauti Girl --I think my husband uses his own login now! |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: March-21-2004 at 2:38pm
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a three pronger got a little to close to the blades for my liking, but i guess it depends on the prop. are you going to get a new one or get yours fixed? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: nauti girl
Date Posted: March-22-2004 at 4:37pm
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I sent my 12X15RH1.0 to O.J. for repair with instructions for them to call me before they begin. Since I am turning that prop over 5200 RPM, I have some doubt that it is ACTUALLY 15 pitch. I have been advised that my 351 Commander 4V should not be able to turn that prop that fast, so it might have been re-pitched lower (or maybe my engine has more-than-stock power?).
I would also like to buy a new (re-conditioned) prop of the original size, but at this point, I'm not sure what the original size is. I called Southeast CC, and asked them what the original size was They were really nice, but they seemed to be guessing - by the time I got off the phone they must have told me 3 or 4 different sizes that it could have been  ------------- Nauti Girl --I think my husband uses his own login now! |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: March-22-2004 at 7:35pm
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see if your transmision has an id plate. if you have a 1:1 go with woodys recomendation of a 13x13. if you have a reduction tranny 1.23:1, the prop your turning sounds about right. have oj add some cup if it checks out if you want to get the rpm's down.
you might compare your tach to a dwell meter with a high rpm scale. it might be off a tad. my old teleflex petered out at 3k, but yours might be set on 6 cylinder or something. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: nauti girl
Date Posted: March-23-2004 at 11:53am
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I DO have a 1:1.
I have sent in the prop sizing inquiry form to Michagan Wheel. I'm waiting for their reply. ------------- Nauti Girl --I think my husband uses his own login now! |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: March-23-2004 at 4:54pm
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here is the test to see what pitch you need.. if I got this right.....
You should be able to near redline on your boat when it is wide open. If you can not, that means your pitch is off. Not all boats should have the factory pitch.. for instance 13x13... it may be after loading it down with 1000 lbs of weight 13x14 or something like that.... I do not completely understand it, but there is a huge impact on what your pitch should be after you weight the boat down. I posted a guys name that explained it to me earlier... Scott can go more into detail and actually adjust your prop for proper load, etc. |
Posted By: Ken-Aus
Date Posted: April-13-2004 at 9:38am
| I have always been told to use a brass key at the prop end and a s/s key at the coupling end. This is to ensure that if something does go wrong you can shear the key. |
Posted By: 1987SN2001
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 8:07pm
| I made a high quality prop puller, similar to the commercial models, for about $25.00 and two hours of my time. Start with a 4" C-Clamp. Cut off the screw and the stop (the screw on a standard 4" clamp is not strong enough). For the stop, I used a 1" steel pipe cap from the plumbing isle ($0.95). Cut the cap about a 45 deg angle and grind out the radius. Weld that to the back of the clamp. I welded a 5/8" threaded rod adapter onto the opposite side. Use a 4" long 5/8" threaded bolt and you are in business. I welded a nut on the inside of the bolt and left a gap to cap the end of the drive shaft. |
Posted By: bsucics
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 10:55pm
| I've been reading all the posts for pulling a prop - potentially a pain, but seems straight forward. How difficult/what's involved in reinstalling the prop with the key? Thanks |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 8:39am
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1987 please send us a photo of your fabricated (homemade) puller, would be of great intrest to those that won't spend the money but want the tool..........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 1987SN2001
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 10:45am
Looking from left to right: The end of the puller that "pulls" against the back of the prop is made from a 1" steel pipe cap. I ground a flat edge and welded it to the end of the cut down clamp. Then I cut out the cap so it would fit on the shaft between the prop and strut. I welded a 5/8" threaded adapter to the other end. You could weld two or three nuts together instead if you wanted. (be sure to put the bolt in first to keep them aligned). Use a 4" long 5/8" bolt. I put a nut on the inside of the clamp and left several threads open, then welded it to the bolt. That allows the nut to "wrap" around the end of the shaft so it will not slip off. I filleted all of the welds, buffed, and painted it. Workds great. All together cost less than $25.00. |
Posted By: 1987SN2001
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 11:07am
Here is another angle of the prop puller. Better explains how I cut out the pipe cap. Hope this helps. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 12:04pm
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thanx mucho for pix and info,anything to do with boats is too cool. just could not envision how to build one out of common stuff in my shop...........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 4:27pm
| very Mcguyver, nice piece of work. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 4:40pm
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Is it thin enough to work on 4 blades? ------------- |
Posted By: 1987SN2001
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 7:32pm
| I tested it on both 3 and 4 blade props and it works just fine. I was wrong about the price. I built another one for my buddy and it costs less than $15.00. |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 10:45pm
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If you built for your bud, how about some of mech-challenged guys?
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: 1987SN2001
Date Posted: October-18-2006 at 2:06pm
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jbear,
Any skier is a friend of mine, especially a Nautique enthusiast. You can email me at the link below: I have learned (after building quite a few of these dumb things, recently) that many "C" clamps are not strong enough to withstand the force of pulling a prop. I have switched to using 1/4" solid steel instead of a "C" clamp (although there are some strong "C" clamps that do work). Something else I found out is that the angle of the bolt in relationship to the end of the puller is critical. If it is out of tolerance, the puller does not work. I still believe, if you have some welding skills and a few hours to spare, you can make a quality puller for less than $15.00. Ski well. mailto:william.w.schneider@us.army.mil - contact me http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1652&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-05-2007 at 10:38pm
This is my homemade puller I made about 15 years ago after I had a problem with the "C" clamp style having too much spring in it. I do have a 4th bolt and the plates are drilled and tapped for it to be used with a 4 blade. It was up north and I just remembered to bring it home.
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MarineSRT8
Date Posted: September-05-2007 at 10:43pm
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I must have gotten lucky. my prop came off with a few taps from my hand....no problems ------------- "Some people go an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. Marines don't have that problem" -Pres. Ronald Reagan-  |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-06-2007 at 11:41am
T8, When you figure out what prop to use with all that HP, keep in mind that the taper is really what holds the prop on and tranmits all the torque. It is recommended to even lap with lapping compound the prop to the shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
MarineSRT8 wrote:Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-06-2007 at 12:25pm
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Pete , who built that "HIGH PERFORMANCE" propeller removal apparatus. I am impressed, but again I am from Monterey La. and it don't take much to impress me....
Still that is a cool tool,will you be building any more or was that a one off?Would be proud to add that to my Tool Box of Special Tools.........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-06-2007 at 3:09pm
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Doc, It is my own design and made it to get as even a 360 degree pull on the prop hub as possible. I was frustrated with the C clamp type with way too much spring or "give" in them. I had used a 3 arm gear puller at one time so that sort of started me in that direction. I really should have made several at the time but didn't think that others would need them. If I gear up for them again, you are the first person on my list. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-07-2007 at 12:44am
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speaking of tapers, on larger Twin Disc and ZF transmissions on the main bull gears they do not use a key at all, they completly rely on the taper, you put the gear in the press and advance the shaft, you use a dial indicater to determine the amount of advance, these transmissions have 1500 hp pumped to them and you would think you need a key. to remove the gear there is a rifle drilled hole with threads at the top which leads to the bull gear and to remove you fill the hole with 90w gear oil and take the correct size bolt and wrap it with teflon tape and tighten it quickly with a impact and it hydraulically pops the gear, its pretyy amazing to do this or watch it ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: DonC
Date Posted: June-25-2008 at 5:44pm
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Best prop pullers on the market:
www.waltergear.com |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-25-2008 at 5:59pm
wonder who signs your check ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-25-2008 at 8:29pm
| the only problem with that style puller is you have 2 buy thier 250.00 socket or they wont sell you the puller.... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-25-2008 at 8:47pm
Wrong! It doesn't apply full equal pressure to the backside of the hub. Plus, no provisions to pull a 4 blade on the #1 size. The #1 is the proper size for the people here on this site and many do run 4 blade props! Don, you must be smoking something! 
DonC, Do you work for, own or have stock in Walter gear??? Edit: It does seem that you are connected with Walter. Have you read the sites policies regarding commercial sales? You must have missed it!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |