Transmission Switch
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22832
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 9:43am
Topic: Transmission Switch
Posted By: srbranum
Subject: Transmission Switch
Date Posted: July-26-2011 at 10:29pm
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Greetings all. Just back from our annual vacation. Put 12 hours on my boat. Got a question and hope you all can help me out.
My boat is the 1975 Skier with the OMC 225 option engine. Lately, I have been constantly worrried that I am goin to get stuck out on the water because when I go to start the engine, 50% of the time, the engine will not turn over because I believe the safety switch connected to the transmission linkage on the back of the engine is defective or something. If the switch is not in the exact neutral position, the engine will not turn over. Or, it may be something else. It has done this for years but it has got progressively worse lately. I usually end up jiggling the throttel, moving the battery terminals, tapping on the swith opposite the linkage, etc. until it starts. Any suggustions? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2011 at 11:01pm
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Scott.
The best way to check it out is with a volt/Ohm, meter to make sure the NSS is actually closing when you have the helm in the neutral position. Ohm it out and check your cable adjustments. I'd say they are off and you may need new ones! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-27-2011 at 1:09pm
Pete, Why can't I just buy one of the NSS switches you told R-Dub about yesterday and just pop it in my boat? For ~$22, it does not seem worth my time to dx a 36 year old switch. Would have to paint it blue to keep it original to match the engine!! Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-27-2011 at 1:25pm
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Scott,
I'd sure test the switch before you go spending the money even though it's only $22. The NSS really doesnt see much of a amp load so the contact life is real high. They are pretty reliable. Yes, it's got to have the blue paint on it!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 2:33am
I got a chuckle on that one. The battery terminals shouldn't move. Also check the barrel fittings on your throttle; particularly at the morse. You may have a worn one causing your fits. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 12:53pm
Do I have to remove the shifter off it's mounting position to check the barrel fittings? Again, I know nothing about the shifter. Any advice would be appreciated. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-28-2011 at 2:58pm
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You should be able to shine a light behind it(not very familiar with your boat). Sometimes a mirror helps. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 3:04pm
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Greetings everyone. I have been out of touch for a while but plan on getting back to the website thanks to Keith for helping me with my new password because I forgot my old one.
I resurected this problem post because I never did anything about it until recently and thought ya'll might like to see what I found out. Do ya'll remember the guy who helped me buff my boat after my stringer rebuild(see my project)two years ago and is an authority(after Pete of course)? Well, I asked him to help me with this problem three weeks ago because I could not take another summer(My 23rd with this boat!!) wondering if I was going to get stuck out on the water. Here is what we did in my garage. Bumped the switch to turn the motor over a bunch of times. Everything was ok. Left the key in the "run" position, motor off, and started checking voltage, connections, NSS, ect. At one point, he told me to turn the key off. I did so using my left hand from the passenger seat which is a different angle than using my left hand from the drivers seat like I do in the summer. The side of my hand accidently touched the black fuse holder directly above the ignition switch and BOY was it hot!!! That brought out the red flags. I don't think I would have ever had a reason to touch it in the summer but I accidently did this time. Come to find out that the wire connector on the back of the fuse link was only half attched to the post and loose. My friend said that if the entire male and female connector is not fully connected, the load is too much for the small area it was connected to and got hot. This would explain why each summer, when it would not start, it was hot but eventually started after the fuse cooled down. Of course it always started after launching it or each morning because everything was cool to the touch. We left the key on for a good long time after this and it stayed nice and cool and the engine bumped over each time we tried it. RULE OF THUMB: ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ARE FULLY CONNECTED AND NICE AND TIGHT!!! ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:31pm
Good find, congrats on getting the fix 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:51pm
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Scott,
Welcome back and it's great you found the problem. Those .250" quick connect "sta-cons" can be a problem. Besides the inexpensive ones corroding, I've found them so brittle that the female side actually breaks. Once they heat up, the crimp at the wire can fail too. Your best bet is to replace them with some high quality ones. New tinned marine grade wire wouln't hurt ether. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 5:03pm
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Scott, As per Buffalo, I would still check your shift cable, especially behind the Morse to make absolutly sure your shift control arm has not worked loose.
And, probably wouldn't be a bad idea to inspect your Point Set after leaving the key on. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 9:51am
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98%...... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:15am
???98% assuming u mean agreeing with DrCC? thanks ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:06pm
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no, rule of thumb, 98% of all electrical problems are bad connections ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 11:19pm
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And 98% of that is that someone was messing with it before you- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 10:11am
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you got that right ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |