’90 Ski Nautique not firing properly
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2286
Printed Date: November-26-2024 at 9:02pm
Topic: ’90 Ski Nautique not firing properly
Posted By: Kevin's '79
Subject: ’90 Ski Nautique not firing properly
Date Posted: August-20-2005 at 12:52am
| I bought a '90 Ski Nautique and I can't get it to start. It is getting plenty of fuel. It has points and I checked the points and the gap was too close. I regapped the points and now when I first turn the engine over I can see the points sparking. After they spark a few times the spark goes away. I also pulled a couple of plugs and when I first turn the engine over I can see the plugs firing then they stop. I am going to buy new points, condensor, cap and rotor but wanted to know if the problem could be the coil. Also, what should the point gap be? What plugs should I use if I replace them and what is the plug gap? Any help is greatly appreciated. I know there are many Fan members that can offer advice and I need it. Thanks, Kevin |
Replies:
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: August-20-2005 at 3:42am
Kevin...it could be the coil or the resistor.The resistor if failing ,will cause inconsistant voltage.Both are not expensive to replace and even if thats not the problem...it won't be in the future!
Is your engine a ford 351? if so , I can tell you what plugs you need and the gap. Or check the reference section...manuals. Might want get new wires too! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: August-20-2005 at 5:03am
|
Get rid of the points and go for an electronic conversion. I was reluctant to make the change but I think it may have been the single biggest improvement I made in the boat. (Cheap too.) I went with the Petronix. About $95.00 as I remember. You will thank me for the advise. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-20-2005 at 9:38am
|
The sparking shouldn't be very noticable, and it it is, it suggests the condenser is bad.
Dump the points and get the pertronix like Jim sez. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Kevin's '79
Date Posted: August-22-2005 at 2:01pm
| Since I could not find a pertronix kit locally and I wanted to get the engine running, I bought a tune-up kit and installed new points, condensor, rotor button, and dist. cap. After installing the boat fired right up and idled perfectly. Then came the next problem. The engine would run very smooth up to 2000 RPM. At that point you could not give it more gas or it would begin sound like it was missing, flooding, shaking or something. I checked the timing and it was 10 degrees at idle and moved to 20 degrees at 2000 rpm. I diconnected the throttle cable so I could give it gas while looking into the carb. While giving it gas up to 2000 RPM everything looks fine in the carb. However after you give it gas to go above 2000 RPM the carb appears to be dumping raw fuel into the primaries. You can see it dripping into the carb. Is this normal? Is the carb the problem or should I be looking somehwere else? The engine is a PCM 351 with a holley carb. Thanks in advance for your help. Kevin |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: August-22-2005 at 10:00pm
|
Kevin: You're SO close!
Did you change your sparkplugs while you did the rest of the tuneup? Do it, then get the carb rebuilt to Holley factory specs and I bet you're gonna be a huge Nautique fan. The Holley's have an identifying "List Number" on the vertical side of a venturi tower when you remove the spark arrestor. Be sure you get the same powervalve and kit to match that particular "List Number" and you can either rebuild it yourself or pay a carb shop to do it. Don't take it to a marine repair shop, just get in the phone book and take it directly to the local carb rebuild shop nearest you. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: August-22-2005 at 10:01pm
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Kevin originally posted: <<I bought a '90 Ski Nautique and I can't get it to start.>>
You didn't tell us how the "test drive" went...?!! Was the guy sitting at the dock with the engine running when you showed up? This has potential for being kind of funny, don't you think?? |
Posted By: Kevin's '79
Date Posted: August-23-2005 at 12:15pm
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Tom,
It may be funny to you, but I'm not laughing. The test drive never occured since I bought the boat sight unseen 700 miles away. I paid for the boat in advance and then picked it up half way. I trusted what I was told. Hopefully I can get it straightened out with out too much additional cost. |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: August-23-2005 at 1:35pm
|
Kevin, I bought my boat the same way. You ARE very close. The problem could be the coil but I doubt it. If in doubt change it. No one has mentioned the Holley power valve. I do not know the symptoms of a faulty power valve but maybe someone will chime with some thoughts. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: Kevin's '79
Date Posted: August-23-2005 at 11:56pm
| I talked with an old friend today who happens to be a good car mechanic. I wanted at least 1 more opinion on the possible problem. He said to try one more thing before deciding that the problem was with the carb. He told me to check the points to make sure the dwell and gap had not changed. He also said to check the dwell as I reved up the engine. If the problem is with the carb, then the dwell should remain witin a couple of degrees of the initial setting. If the dwell varies more than a copuole of degrees then the distributor could be the problem. As I reved the engine the dwell begin moving closer to 0 degrees as I approached 2000 RPM. He said if the dwell varied then psuh on the distributor shaft while the points are open and see if you can see the gap change. Guess what it did. Now that the problem lies with the distributor. What are my options? Repair? Replacement? Once again thanks for all who respond. I am definately getting closer. I'm still not laughing yet. Kevin |