2 piece cutless or 1 piece?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23020
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 6:02pm
Topic: 2 piece cutless or 1 piece?
Posted By: natedog
Subject: 2 piece cutless or 1 piece?
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 6:38pm
trying to buy new cutless bearing for my 96 supersport, the dealer wants me to buy the 2 piece at 92 a pop yikes! they are the traditional brass shelled, skidim has the 2 piece for 65 made from vesconite thermoplastic and i have found duramax marine makes a one piece but cant find the right size, and nautiqueparts.com has the one piece for 125, any thoughts on use of 1 or 2 piece?
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Replies:
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 6:50pm
Last time i checked deepblueyachtsupply had one piece Duramax for under 40 dollars.
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:00pm
deepblueyachtsupply has a 4 1/2" long cutless bearings but my strut shaft housing is 6" i guess i would need two and cut them? only nautiqueparts.com has the full one piece from what i have found
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:07pm
I have put the 4" in my 6" strut...I left the 2" gap toward the front input (front) of the strut....
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:09pm
4 1/2" should be perfect, installed from the back.
Unless you just want full length for some reason.
Check with deepblue I could have swore I've seen longer lengths.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:21pm
I agree that 6" isn't needed. 4.5" will work fine. Yes, install it flush with the aft end of the strut.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:26pm
ok thanks does it need to be brass or non-metallic, i was gonna get the brass shelled.
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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:34pm
brass is fine
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:48pm
Nate,
Again, I agree about the traditional brass shelled rubber. It has worked for MANY years!! I've had problems with plastic bearings in industry. The plastic for the cutlass is relatively new and I don't know if they have proven themselves in a marine strut application yet. Plus, I'm a old guy who likes to stay with known things that work!!
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:54pm
ordered the 4 1/2 from deepblue, a rep told me some guys cut them in half and put the gap in the middle of the strut anyone do this? also i have seen a thread on how to press the bearing into the strut but can find it now, i remember freezing the bearing for 3 hours then using a threaded rod with washers and tightening the washers down to press it into place is this the best method?
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:09pm
does anyone know if the struts from white lake marine come preloaded with bearings? i ordered a strut and have tried emailing and calling to find out and the description under the strut on their site does not say, so i assumed it would not come preloaded with the bearing but i wanted to ask people here as well since they won't respond
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:13pm
Nate,
I've never see a strut come though with a cutlass bearing.
The threaded rod with large washers is your best bet if you don't have and arbor press. I too, do not feel the freezing is needed. Just make sure you get the bearing started straight with the bore of the strut.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:21pm
All of the struts that are coming from CC dealers these days come with strut bushings installed, I believe. I have purchased 2 from White Lake and N3 over the last year or so.
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 9:51pm
that would be nice if it did come with bushing, but it would be nice if someone from nautiqueparts.com would respond to calls or emails so i could know for certain.
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 10:51pm
I don't think I would order anything without some kind of response.
I am a huge fan of the freezer trick! I amazed myself!
Only I leave them in the freezer for at least 24 hours.
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Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: August-08-2011 at 11:00pm
I bought a new strut from SkiDIM a year ago and it came with the bushings installed as well. They used two short brass-shelled rubber bushings. One was installed at the front and one at the rear with an empty space between the two. The set screws were installed as well if I remember correctly.
Cooper
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-09-2011 at 12:56am
I called skiDIM but they do not carry struts for my super sport because they said they don't sell enough, i ordered one from nautiqueparts.com because they are a subsidiary of White Lake Marine and i am trying to get the boat going for this weekend for family coming in. its funny because i received tracking info and emails for a receipt but no one could answer my email if the bearing is installed so i ordered that from deepblueyachsupply.com in case
sucks because i don't like to order without knowing the product but i'm in a bind
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 12:57pm
ok so the new strut i ordered came with the cutlass bearing, when i install the new strut is there any special instructions i should follow? how much 3m 5200 should i use? just cake the bottom of the strut, and tighten down the bolts? how long does it need to set up?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 1:38pm
Nate,
Struts are notorious for poor machining jobs on the base and the holes. Don't count on it just bolting up. You must check the alignment to the hull hole and log.
The 5200 is moisture cure so the cure time depends on the humidity. Cound on at least 5 days The instructions will tell you 7 days for a full cure.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 6:01pm
Pete,
does the alignment video cover the hull hole and log?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 6:57pm
Nate,
Yes it's in there and actually my starting point since alignment starts at the strut and then you go forward. Take a look at it and if there is something you're unsure of post the question.
I take it you haven't watched it yet???
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 7:34pm
I think 4200 is worth considering.
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 8:54pm
BuffaloBFN wrote:
I think 4200 is worth considering. |
Greg,
It's certainly not a bad option.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 10:40pm
5200 was all they had where i went, is 4200 just a slower curing compound? thats the only difference i really gathered from 3m's site.
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 10:50pm
i have watched the video, but i have not gotten down to look at the coupling flange because the damn v-drive is a pain
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 11:08pm
4200 is not as durable as 5200. 4200 takes less cure time but I was strongly suggested to use 5200 instead of 4200 when I had to R&R my strut.
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-10-2011 at 11:42pm
watching the strut alignment video and i am not sure how do you keep the tranny flange stationary to rotate the prop shaft and rotate it at 90* increments to check if the shaft towards the front is bent
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-11-2011 at 1:48am
Do you have the bolts out of the 2 couplings?
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Posted By: natedog
Date Posted: August-11-2011 at 2:31am
no i did not, i thought the removal of the bolts came later in the video but i guess i got that confused
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2011 at 8:38am
Loosen the bolts enough to use the feeler gauge, remove the bolts and rotate the shaft side 90 degrees, put at least one bolt back in to hold the coupling together, check again with the feeler gauge and repeat.
Keep in mind that you need to check aft of the strut too. A bent shaft there is common with prop/strut damage.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-11-2011 at 9:57am
horkn wrote:
4200 is not as durable as 5200. 4200 takes less cure time but I was strongly suggested to use 5200 instead of 4200 when I had to R&R my strut. |
8122pbrainard wrote:
BuffaloBFN wrote:
I think 4200 is worth considering. |
Greg,
It's certainly not a bad option. |
Tom, compare your post to Pete's. The difference is he knows why I brought it up.
Your response is accruate, but your premise is that the extra strength is needed, and that implies that the 4 bolts serve no purpose. The white stuff is for sealing water out , and I'm pretty sure they do a relatively equal job in that regard.
4200 is removable and still much stronger(better sealing) than the original sealer used on an older boat.
So you don't get me wrong, 5200 is fine...if you know exactly where a part needs to be. That's easier with a bracket than it is with a strut.
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-12-2011 at 1:09am
Greg, I think you are inferring too much assuming that I meant that the bolts don't do anything. ;)
I know the bolts do quite a bit because whatever the sealant was on my strut, it only kept water out. Once I had those bolts out the strut pulled off with barely any force.
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-12-2011 at 2:31am
horkn wrote:
Once I had those bolts out the strut pulled off with barely any force. |
That will not be the case next time.
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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: August-13-2011 at 2:20am
There shouldn't be a next time;)
------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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