Print Page | Close Window

Leaking valve cover gasket 89/2001

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23576
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 11:16pm


Topic: Leaking valve cover gasket 89/2001
Posted By: frozenskier
Subject: Leaking valve cover gasket 89/2001
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 6:22pm
I have an 89 CC 2001 and valve cover gaskets are starting to leak small amounts of oil down over block getting into bilge. Clearance is very tight to get to bolts to remove valve cover to replace gaskets. Anyone done it before? Can valve covers be removed without removing exhaust manifolds? Boat has 1200 hours on it, exhaust manifolds never romoved before, worried about snapping off bolts etc. Any suggestions?



Replies:
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 6:57pm
they can be removed without taking the manifolds off...something like http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200312999_200312999 - this will help a lot...

-------------
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 9:40pm
The manifold bolts shouldn't be a big deal if you take a few precautions. Spray on some penetrating oil and give each head a medium rap. Then let 'em soak over night.

Then if you remove every other bolt and replace it with the same bolt but longer(1.5-2"), the mani will slide back where you can get to those gaskets and clean the surfaces right.

You may have to remove it to change the gasket. For that I need Pete's help: Pete, what's the name of a double threaded bolt(bet he even has a pic)? 4 of those bolts help a ton reinstalling.

-------------
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

For that I need Pete's help: Pete, what's the name of a double threaded bolt(bet he even has a pic)? 4 of those bolts help a ton reinstalling.

A threaded stud??? sorry, I may not be following!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

A threaded stud???


That's it. They have different threads on each end. Standard to fine.

Edit-It's called a thread adapter bolt. A 3" bolt with the head cut off does the same thing.

-------------
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 10:37pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

A threaded stud???


That's it. They have different threads on each end. Standard to fine.

Edit-It's called a thread adapter bolt. A 3" bolt with the head cut off does the same thing.

Greg,
To fill you in some more, A threaded stud usually has different classes of thread tolerances on each end. The typical "stud" has a class 1 on one end. This is the interference fit that usually goes into the block. (stud wrench needed) Then, the other end is for you basic nut fit which is a class 2 (spin it on by hand)   

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-19-2011 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

A threaded stud???


That's it. They have different threads on each end. Standard to fine.

Edit-It's called a thread adapter bolt. A 3" bolt with the head cut off does the same thing.

Greg,
To fill you in some more, A threaded stud usually has different classes of thread tolerances on each end. The typical "stud" has a class 1 on one end. This is the interference fit that usually goes into the block. (stud wrench needed) Then, the other end is for you basic nut fit which is a class 2 (spin it on by hand)   


Thanks for the info; didn't know that.    

What I do know is the BBC mani's get heavy in a hurry if I'm fumbling around with a bolt, though I know we aren't talking about a BBC here. It's a trick I think 79 posted way back, and I have it down to a science.

-------------
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:24pm
Guess i wasn't being specific enough on my first post about getting to the heads of the bolts that hold the valve cover. My concern is that it appears one would need some kind of extension that is flexible in order to get at the center bolt heads. I live in a remote area and the local mechanic doesn't seem to think he can get at the bolts without removing the exhaust manifolds which I really don't want to do. Nearest Nautique dealer id 60 miles away. Any suggestions on a flexible extender?


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by MI-nick MI-nick wrote:

they can be removed without taking the manifolds off...something like http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200312999_200312999 - this will help a lot...


The universal joint nick mentions above.

Something like this might be even better:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=67248&group_ID=140&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog - Universal Socket
this puts the socket right into the joint, giving a little more clearance.

The snap-on set is big money, but you can buy them individually too, once you know what size? you need. Also, look for something called a swivel socket as well.

A pic of the exact bolt you expect to be a problem would be helful too.


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:51pm
that thing wont fit..its a really tight space there...

i think you need something like http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Extension-Ratchet-Mechanic-Tools/dp/B00129IG7W - this

anyway removing the manifold isn´t a bad idea...yes the bolt might be frozen there, been there myself. But need to be done eventually, the riser gasket that age always leak...put fresh gasket and be safe..


-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:53pm
Do the exhaust manifolds definitely have to come off, Seb?

I guess that's one advantage of the Chevy 350s, the valve cover bolts tend to be right in the middle.


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:55pm
Its not a big deal to remove the exhaust manifolds if that is what has to happen which I suspect it will to get to the valve covers. I took mine off this winter to paint them back to their original color and it was really easy. Just get new gaskets for them as well. What the guys are describing above with the studs is the trick to putting them back on once you have fixed the valve covers. I used 2 studs to hang the gasket and manifold in place while I put in the bolts. Once you have a few bolts in you can remove the studs and replace with bolts. Good afternoon project.

-------------
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Do the exhaust manifolds definitely have to come off, Seb?

I guess that's one advantage of the Chevy 350s, the valve cover bolts tend to be right in the middle.


NO, but if off it´s easier...

on the chevy, yes on 87+ engines with centerbolt valve covers, prior engines have bolts all around...


-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 6:04pm
These are the bolts that are going to be hard to get to.



-------------
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 6:06pm
that is correct you mister K!

-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 7:04pm
hey keegan, wonder how you managed to route the spark wires/cables that way...

-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

hey keegan, wonder how you managed to route the spark wires/cables that way...


I just squeezed the ends in between the manifold and the valve cover in the same spots that the arrows are pointing to above. The little indention in the valve cover that makes room for the bolt allows just enough room to get the wires through there. Seems to work well.

-------------
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 8:44pm
did you use KY to slide them? thats really tight!

-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 12:59pm
kapla, checked out the flexible socket extension that you suggested. All the reviews on them indicate that they are good to use on bolts that don't need to be tightened down very much, less than 10 ft lbs. Anything more and the extensions just seem to twist up and don't work. Seems to me that would be ok for tightening valve cover bolts but I don't want to end up making the situation worse by ending up with bolts that can't be tightened enough and end up with a valve cover that leaks worse than I already have. Thoughts? Ideas?


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 1:08pm
Ive heard that getting those VC bolts on and off without pulling the manifolds is possible, but it sure is tight. I havent tried it myself- pulling the manifolds isnt too bad of a job. Unless your manifold bolts look really scary, then I would pull them.

Keegan, why did you route the wires over the VC's? The VC's and exhaust manifold runners get HOT! Id be concerned about a scorched wire. Did you not get wires long enough to route from underneath?

-------------


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 1:44pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:


Keegan, why did you route the wires over the VC's? The VC's and exhaust manifold runners get HOT! Id be concerned about a scorched wire. Did you not get wires long enough to route from underneath?


I guess I just didn't know any better . I ran it last year from August to October that way before I pulled an painted the manifolds, and the wires were still nice and supple. This year I checked my plugs to see how the motor is running, no signs of damage from heat that I noticed, but you sure have me wondering now! With the indentions in the VC it seemed like it was meant to be . I am guessing my wires are probably too short to route underneath. May go ahead and buy a new set and keep them close by. I wanted red ones anyway

-------------
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 1:48pm
If it runs fine so be it, but you will eventually kill those wires. You could get super insulated ones but then they probably won't fit!

-------------


Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 2:00pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

If it runs fine so be it, but you will eventually kill those wires. You could get super insulated ones but then they probably won't fit!


I am glad I posted that pic! Will definitely reroute them the correct way. Thanks guys.

-------------
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier


Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 3:25pm
+1 on just pulling the manifolds. That way you can do the manifold gaskets at the same time and save yourself some work down the road.

-------------
2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI
https://forum.fifteenoff.com






Posted By: NAUTIQUEjunky
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 6:35pm
Get you a nice 1/4 ratchet,swivel and extension you can get to the Valve cover bolts all day long, Were not talking huge torque numbers here folks if you cant break them loose with this method them somethings wrong ie cross threaded, seized..I have never had to pull a manifold to service Valve cover gaskets you have enough room.





-------------
1977 MasterCraft Stars&Stripes
1994 Ski Nautique
2000 Super Air Nautique
1986 Ski Nautique 2001
1999 Sport Nautique gt40 current










Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 6:45pm
I used the same as above, had to slide the socket in from the front.

-------------


Posted By: frozenskier
Date Posted: September-26-2011 at 3:10pm
Nautiquejunky, Thanks for the info and the picture, I'll give it a go.


Posted By: PRP Correct Craft
Date Posted: June-25-2012 at 2:03am

Thanks Nautiquejunky!
Worked great and no more leak!


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-25-2012 at 4:14pm
Just did a VC gasket Thurday with the 1/4 drive swivel extention.

Mashing a small piece of paper towel between the bolt and socket, kept them together upon feeding them down and assembling the last two bolts in those hard areas. took 20 minutes tops, most was removing the old chucks of gasket.

-------------
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: martin 74
Date Posted: June-26-2012 at 10:26am
Originally posted by NAUTIQUEjunky NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:

Get you a nice 1/4 ratchet,swivel and extension you can get to the Valve cover bolts all day long, Were not talking huge torque numbers here folks if you cant break them loose with this method them somethings wrong ie cross threaded, seized..I have never had to pull a manifold to service Valve cover gaskets you have enough room.









This worked great, very easy, no need to remove manifolds plenty of room.

Thanks


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-26-2012 at 10:38am
It looks like your stamped VC has good draft at the screw pocket. The newer cast VC's are a bit tighter I think. I did manifold maintenance & VC gaskets at same time, seemed to go together.

Glad you got it fixed

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin



Print Page | Close Window