Strut shimming
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23581
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 3:16pm
Topic: Strut shimming
Posted By: lakedog55
Subject: Strut shimming
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:39pm
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Been looking forward to this day and dreading it at the same time, Everything else on the boat was either bent broke or in need of somthing.
posting pictures to see if you guys think it can be shimmed and tolerance levels for the number of washers Thanks Mike   ------------- Lakedog55 |
Replies:
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:44pm
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I would first support the engine end of the shaft and check concentricity at the cutlass bearing(rubber inside the strut). Looks like a great time to replace the cutlass if it's worn. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:44pm
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If it's that bad could you purposely bend the strut to get it closer, then fine tune with shims? ------------- |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:49pm
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Cutlass bearings replaced, Bend the strut with a pipe or somthing.
Shaft is new, How about a little heat on the strut. being careful of course I kind center the strut with a little pressure up and down movement is easier of course the left to right is a little harder. Thanks Mike The ARE shaft does not have a slip lock collar like the old ones is it not neccesary? ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:00pm
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Mike,
I agree with the previous answers. Yes, get the weight of the forward end of the shaft and see how it turns in the cutlass. If shimming is needed, I would not go more than one washer. (stainless of course) If movement from side to side is required, sometimes there's enough clearance in the mounting bolts. No, the ARE does not need the safety set collar since it has the bolt on the front end holding it into the coupling taper. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:05pm
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Thanks
If I get the weight off and some what centered then I will check to see how it turns Got it ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:18pm
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Like was said, you need to find where that shaft turns freely in the strut, then hold it there to evaluate how far off center it sits in the shaft log.
I assume that right now the strut is simply bolted up (not 5200'd in)? If so, you might be surprised how much you can vary the shaft log location just by taking a BFH to the strut. The tolerance on the bolt holes will allow the strut to twist a bit, allowing you to dial in the side to side gap. If you dont need to go up/down in the shaft log, no need to shim. If you do need to go up/down, consider grinding the back of the strut to get the angle closer... I chose to do this rather than shim with washers. ------------- |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:28pm
Got the weight off. Turns freely with hand I did silcon the cutlass before beginning but it turns freely just to one side. small adjustment needed just not sure where to begin. Has some 5200 around outside not sure what is under it. post a pic  ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:37pm
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If its spinning freely where it currently sits, you can get rid of that side gap without shimming. That would only help up/down variation.
Get the strut off and clean up the old adhesive. Dry fit it and verify that you can get the shaft in the center of that log... using a BFH to get it dead nuts is perfectly acceptable. Once youve verified that you can get it there, remove everything and install the strut for real (with 5200). Before it sets up, double check that youre centered... if not, get the BFH out again and center it. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 10:35pm
Can you still find where it wants to be with the silicone? I use a spray silicone on my tool tables; makes them slick! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
lakedog55 wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 10:59pm
Greg!!!! That stuff will screw up you finishes!! Go with the non silicone "Boeshield"  Correct Tim? I bet DAL doesn't allow any silicone near the paint operation??------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:06pm
Not sure, Sprayed the silicon in there when I was installing the bearings. The shaft did ride where it wanted to low and right. took the weight off the front and it still wanted to go right. Took strut off and tried straighten some. put it back on and took out good sized hammer swung and almost missed the whole thing, I am not sure if it was body position or not really wanting to hit probably closed my eyes. I will dry out the bearings and recheck but for now it looks like this, ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:11pm
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Mike,
Looking at this last picture, it sure looks like you got it!!!
Nice idea with the strap. I usually use a block of wood with a V cut in it but Next time I'll try the strap. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:24pm
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It worked out nice with the 86 the grab rails are in the perfect place. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:28pm
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Quick question when aligning do I want to use the same method. (taking the weight off of the front of shaft). Also I heard of some doing the final alignment in the water is that how they should be done? ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:33pm
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Looks pretty darn good from here! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:37pm
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looks better than the strut, woops ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-21-2011 at 8:49am
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Mike,
When you're up forward doing the engine alignment, the front of the prop shaft will be supported by the step bore on the coupling face. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |