Materials needed
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23826
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 1:45pm
Topic: Materials needed
Posted By: Roym
Subject: Materials needed
Date Posted: October-12-2011 at 10:29pm
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After several years of "Thinking about it", I decided to start replacing the stringers and floor on my 77 Ski Tique.
I have searched and read many of the older posts but am unable to find a materials list for a Ski Tique. I know that several people have performed stringer replacement, and must have account of what was needed. I would like to know how much epoxy, fiberglass cloth, filler etc. was needed. I don't want to order the wrong things, or the wrong amounts. I'm a newbie at fiberglassing, so I need all the help I can muster. Thanks Roy |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:07am
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That wouldnt be too hard for us to put together for you, but some more details on how you plan to rebuild would be helpful.
-What material are you using for the stringers? Wood? Composite? -Are you refoaming? If not, are you adding any other structural members in addition to the original stringers? -What material are you using for the floor? -Have you decided on a material (epoxy vs. poly vs. vinyl)? -Have you decided on a layup schedule on the mains, secondaries, ribs (if any), floor, bulkheads? -Are you replacing the other wood in the hull? Lifting ring backers, rudder port, bilge pump mount, etc. -Have you decided on a bilge finish yet? Paint vs. gel vs. tinted epoxy, etc. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:10am
Tim, you might be one step ahead of him?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:17am
I figured that may be the case, but those questions should spur some thought, if nothing else. In general, it makes sense to complete the design before you order parts.  ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:27am
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Agreed. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 12:58pm
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Well my plan is to replace all the wood in the hull except maybe the rudder plate. If that is bad it will go too. I do plan on replacing the lift ring wood and the pieces where the exhaust exits the hull.
What color bilge paint is a little premature at this point. I haven't cut out the floor yet, but it's no secret the wood under it is mush. My plan is "No foam" and a plywood floor. I might be way off base but I see the foam as being the cause of stringer rot in the first place. It appears to trap water,causing rot. I would prefer that it be open so the water can drain and be pumped out. I really have no clue about how to do this. I assume from reading once the stringers are cut you wrap them with fiberglass cloth and "epoxy" them instead of using fiberglass resin. Then bed them in using epoxy mixed with a thicking product. As far as after this I guess it is epoxy and FG tape. I'm not sure how it goes after this, guess I'll keep reading. I plan on using Douglas fir for the main stringers, as that seems to be the first choice. My son has called around, and said we can get it here in Florida, but might be a special order. I am open for other suggestions on this, if there is another choice. I have 35 Cypress trees in my back yard and a chainsaw . Just kidding!!
I guess I will use pine and plywood for the rest of the wood. Thanks Roy |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 1:03pm
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Here's a good read for you http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16254&KW=skier&title=73-span-classhighlightskier-span-restoration - my 73 Skier Restoration . This will answer most of the beginner questions since I knew very little at the beginning of this project. Everything from what materials, and layup schedules are detailed in this thread. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 1:35pm
I didnt ask what color, I asked what material you planned to finish with. If epoxy or gelcoat, you'll want to account for that in your materials order. Im with you on a foamless rebuild. I would recommend adding some ribs and bulkheads perpendicular to the main stringers that the factory did not use. This will lend a little more strength to the hull-floor structure, as well as give you good floor support (especially at the seams). They will add to the required materials (glass and resin) though. ------------- |
Roym wrote:Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 1:58pm
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TR, I understand what you are saying now. I'm thinking of just painting the bilge.
Keegan Thanks for the link. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 3:51pm
Have you actually given it much thought? Or are you just defaulting to what you assume to be the easiest solution? I can give you a few reasons why you may want to reconsider based on personal experience. Its a ways down the list on priority at this point, but something to consider if youre trying to limit yourself to one fiberglass order! ------------- |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:40pm
No I haven't, but your right,I need to think it through to the end. I am open for any suggestions. To do the whole stringer replacement, all the secondary stringers, braces,and other wood items, and coat the bilge with epoxy, what would I need to order from US Comp. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:41pm
| I got some tint for the epoxy that I never used on the bilge, but Ive used it one some other things and it seems to make a nice very durable finish coat. I ordered 5 gal of epoxy so I had quite a bit left over. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:41pm
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If you read through the threads you will see that a typical rebuild takes 10 gallons of epoxy. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:47pm
On a typical 16' rebuild, Id say that was pretty close. I bet that he'd be more likely to put in a 2nd order for more than to have some extra left over though. 
Roy, youre going to have to decide on a layup schedule on the stringers and floor before you can figure out a material list for the glass. I put a pretty good list together for our Barefoot Nautique, which I shared http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014&PN=5&title=another-bfn-rebuild - here . I also detailed my planned glass schedules on the mains, secondaries, ribs and floor. We stuck to it pretty close. You can probably detune the glass list by 25-50% based on your smaller boat and the fact that youre not putting in as many ribs or doing any laminating. I am afraid to check my resin supply, I fear we ended up using closer to 20 gallons. ------------- |
Posted By: vondy
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:22pm
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Roy,
Take a look at my stringer thread. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20615&PN=1&title=1969-mustang-stringer-rebuild - mustang Down on page 3, I have a few screen shots of my order from US composites. It was just enough material for my Mustang. Literally had a few inches left of some of the fiberglass tape. I went no foam and added some ribs. I did have half a role of biax and just about a full box of cabosil left over. Got my CPES from the Rot Doctor. Harbor Freight for chip brushes and gloves. You'll need several boxes of both. I probably went through 6 boxes of gloves. And you'll need a ton of acetone, you'll be bathing in it pretty much, that epoxy gets everywhere. I tinted my epoxy for the bilge color. It worked great. The tint is very cheap, just thicken it with cabosil until it resembles latex paint and brush on several coats. Words of advice... give yourself plenty of time and don't rush, it will kill you. And the worst part is putting everything back together. Nothing ever fits just right. Good luck. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4645&sort=&pagenum=1 - 69 Mustang HM |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 11:57pm
| I know everyone knows this but me. What is CPES????? |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 12:32am
| Penetrating epoxy, you paint it on all the wood to seal it up before you put it in the boat. That way even if the water gets past the fiberglass the wood is sealed. You don't want to have to redo it that will probably insure that it out lives you. |
Posted By: KFD14
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 12:34am
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Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant. Magical stuff. You'll want to put several coats on every piece of wood before it goes back in the boat. It will help prevent rot in the future and seems to help the fiberglass bond to the wood better. IMHO ------------- %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4380" rel="nofollow - 83 2001 SN |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 11:50am
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Thanks for all the responses. I have been reading the posts, and now getting a feel for what to do.
I do have a question. Once you get your stringers cut to fit, do you just soak them up with the CPES,let em dry and then bed them in, or do you cover them with FG cloth and epoxy, before bedding them down. It may be a few weeks before I start on this. I am rebuilding the bunks on the trailer now and repainting it. As I have the correct trailer for the boat, I want to keep it in good shape. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 12:05pm
This option. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: vondy
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 11:37pm
the only parts I glassed before bedding what the underside of the drain channels.
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4645&sort=&pagenum=1 - 69 Mustang HM |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-16-2011 at 12:14pm
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Vondy
I looked at the Mustang thread, but most of you photos are gone. I would of liked seeing them. Sounds like you did a great job on your Mustang. You think your revised material list was close, except there was too much biax ? I'm thinking on the plywood floor just one layer of cloth on both sides and ends. This should be enough to seal the wood up good I would think. Is there any reason to use more or a different material?? |
Posted By: vondy
Date Posted: October-16-2011 at 1:14pm
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Yeah I messed something up with my flikr account and they vanished. I'm going to try to go back and edit them.
I believe I just did one layer of cloth top and bottom for the plywood floor. I don't see any reason to do more than one on the bottom. You could double up the top if you want. I have a vinyl floor glued to the top so I figured that would add to the waterproofing. Didn't do the sides of the plywood, I tried to wrap the cloth around but that failed miserably. I also did not see much of a point since the sides will be bedded into thickened epoxy against the hull anyway then laid over with cloth. Just CPES'd it all real well. Now that I think of it, I should have gotten more cloth. I just ran short on the floor and had to use some biax for some of the smaller pieces under the bow. For the biax, I don't think there was a smaller roll. Some guys double up there biax so if you go that way you would have plenty. I think one layer was more than enough for mine. I'll see what I can do about the photos. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4645&sort=&pagenum=1 - 69 Mustang HM |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: October-17-2011 at 12:02pm
| Does everyone use epoxy resin instead of fiberglass resin?? Can regular fiberglass resin be used, or is the epoxy resin that much better. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-17-2011 at 12:48pm
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epoxy resin is (a) fiberglass resin. ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-17-2011 at 12:53pm
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Originally the boat was made with polyester resin. Epoxy resin is absolutely that much better for many reason. Number one being that it is not hygroscopic. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |