Please Double Check My Checklist
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23832
Printed Date: November-13-2024 at 9:38pm
Topic: Please Double Check My Checklist
Posted By: kvand347
Subject: Please Double Check My Checklist
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:25pm
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Updated with the suggestions...
1993 5.8L PCM 1. Add Sea Foam to full tank of gas AT THE LAKE 2. Run motor up to temperature a. Fog motor and shut down 3. Drain water: (2) block, (2) manifold, (1) trans oil cooler (or pull lower hose off), (1) “U” Joint a. Use wire to clean out any debris b. Raise and lower tongue to remove all water AT HOME 4. Change motor oil/filter (while warm) a. Use gallon Ziploc bag for filter b. Oil: Valvoline VR1 (not synthetic!!) 20w-50 (5 quarts) c. Filter: Motocraft FL-1A 5. Change tranny oil (while warm) a. Valvoline Dex/Merc III ATF 6. Unplug coil wire and bump motor to circulate fresh oil 7. Drain/clean water strainer 8. Remove raw water pump and impeller a. Store impeller in a Ziploc bag/replace if needed 9. Replace all drain plugs b. Use anti-seize on bolts 10. Pour RV anti-freeze in the upper hose that attaches to the raw water pump a. Raise the end of the hose above engine level b. 3-4 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze c. Leave in until spring 11. Loosen both belts 12. Remove any water from bilge 13. Clean spark arrestor 14. Clean motor with a rag soaked with WD-40 15. Remove battery, ballast bags, life vests, and cushions to store indoors 16. Wash/dry cover and spray with waterproofing spray 17. Vacuum interior/clean vinyl with Z care 18. Top off gas and treat new gas with Sea Foam 19. Dryer sheets in boat 20. Wash/wax exterior 21. Restock beer |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:35pm
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Great, I think you can slim the list though.
You do not need to circulate the fresh oil. If you insist though, do not fog in step 4. Otherwise, if you skip the oil recirculation fog it only at the ramp when pulling out (eliminate step 6). I'd start with 4.5 qts and check it in the spring once you're back IN the water. It is far easier to add oil than remove it. Raise and lower the tongue during the drain stage, and you forgot to put the plugs back in before the A/F... 
If you like your vinyl, think about a cleaning and treatment step. Z-care cleaner and 303 protectant. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:37pm
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Wow, thats thorough. Nice list!
I dont think you can go wrong with how you described it, but if you want to save a few minutes, I cut a few corners relative to that procedure. There are also a few things that are up for debate. -Your '93 will have a plastic tank, so you have the option to leave less fuel in it if you want. Metal tanks need to be more careful of condensation and the damage it causes. Id be inclined to leave the gas low in a plastic tanked boat and fill up with fresh stuff in the spring. -I fog and then change the oil (and drain the water) and never restart it. Just a few revolutions of cranking the engine (pull the coil wire) is enough to circulate the fresh oil. TIP: removing the fill cap makes the oil drain much more quickly. -Fogging each individual spark plug is overkill if youre fogging down the carb. -Filling the tranny to the top is also very much optional... -No need to store the impeller in a ziplock bag. -Id top the battery off with a charge (if needed) but removing it from the boat isnt necessary- just disconnect the cables. I left mine in last winter for the first time, and just like Pete said, no adverse effects. I topped them off with a charge in the spring. -Dont forget to drain any lines that run to/from any heaters or showers, if applicable. -I wouldnt re-up the water proofing on the cover unless you clean it first. Commercial grade washing machines (at the laundromat) work well for this. Spot treat any stains. -Before tucking it into storage, be absolutely sure that the boat is dry inside. Putting it away wet or damp will ensure you get mold over the winter! -Put those dryer sheets EVERYWHERE. I go through half a box per boat. -Surely you forgot to mention this is easily a 2-3 beer job? ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:48pm
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Are the dryer sheets to deter critters or just to keep that spring fresh scent? Since mine gets stored outside critters worry me! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:53pm
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Critters, the scent is a favorable byproduct.
Or you can go with Pete's coyote urine soaked panty-hos... ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:57pm
Varmints!
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:17pm
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Good tip thanks fellas. Arm and Hammer is by far the strongest dryer sheet out there so I will load it up. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:17pm
Gotcha! I will skip the circulation of fresh oil and just do the fogging. I thought it seemed like over-kill, but that is why I posted! Good call with the oil, too!
Raise and lower using the jack? Is this to remove all water? Won't the A/F push all water out?
Good point! I felt that was a given! 
That's an excellent point as well! I will pick some up. Thanks for the reply! |
Hollywood wrote:Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:31pm
Yes, with the jack. You'll be surprised how much more water you get out of that starboard engine drain plug. Otherwise, it will mix instead of displace and therefore weaken it's freeze protection properties. ------------- |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:39pm
Thanks! I get that from my wife...she makes lists FOR her lists!
I have almost a full tank in there, so I think it will be easy just to re-fill.
I think that is what I'll do as well. Sounds easier!
Agreed.
I saw that is what Eric Lavine sp? said in a previous post. We all know him to be the tranny guru so I figured it to be standard practice.
I read somewhere sealed with a light coating of Vasoline. (Who's going to turn that into a dirty comment? 
I trickle charge it through the winter in the house
Good call! I didn't think about that. Regular laundry soap?
Duh?! What was I thinking!
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Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:41pm
Can't say that I've ever smelled that stuff...certainly racoon and doe pee!
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Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:43pm
Makes perfect sense to me! I might even just trailer (2 miles) it home with the plugs out and then do the jack part once home. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:45pm
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Perfect. Use the ramp to your advantage, I pull DOWN hill to get that drain as low as possible before heading home.
If the tank is already full, try not to overfill it later. Gas can spill out the overflow vent and ruin any pinstriping/decals below it. Does your charger "float"? Even a trickle charger can overcharge a battery. Don't just leave it on indefinitely. I've just disconnected the negative cable and left it in the boat the last few winters. Throwing it on the charger in spring while you're opening it back up should be enough. ------------- |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:01pm
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Great list, but turn steering wheel lock to lock every month to help the cable. However, I do not do this.
Also, if you have an older boat with the Air Guide Speedometers, disconnect the tubes on the back of the speedo to keep the bellows from breaking. Then return to the beer store to reload. Donald |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:14pm
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Wow..... What a list.
I don't see anything about making sure the tranny cooler has no water in it??? I don't pull the impeller since it gets replaced every 2-3 years anyway, same with the belts. My advice is to take as little apart at the end of the year as possible. Putting every part you remove in 1 ziplock bag is probably a good plan. I put 1500 hours on the last boat...no problems....230 hours on the current boat in 2 years... no problems. The biggest issue with these boats are the ones that only run 10-15 hours a year. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:34pm
He got it.
Donald, no need to drain the speedo lines- Ive never heard of such a thing and have never had a problem. ------------- |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:37pm
Yep, my charger does float. I usually don't keep it on all the time. Usually the beginning of each month..at least that's what I did with the vette battery. |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:54pm
Yeah, just want to make sure I do it right since this is the first time. My plan is to keep the checklist in my boat's file so I can access it every year.
This is my first winter and will be my first look at the condition of the impeller so it is a must this time.
I agree. Most everything will be put back on the boat. I figure spring will consist of battery, cushions, life vests, install impeller, tighten belts, catch RV fluid (I don't care if "they" say it's environmentally friendly), and GO!
No worries here! I'm not trying to rub this in, but my wife and I are both teachers with our summer off (we do summer school, though) so the boat will get TONS of use! That was the intent of the purchase...bring the family closer together. |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:19pm
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Hey fellas, couple questions. 1. Can someone explain in detail the procedure to drain the trans coolers, where is it in relation to the tranny, whats it look like, do I have one? 2. Where is the block drain plug for the starboard side. I clearly have one on the port side, but cannot find one on the starboard. 96' Ski with 351 carbed and 1:23 tranny.
Thanks ------------- levin |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:31pm
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:36pm
I did this a few years go. The mice used them to make a neat little nest... I'm back to adding moth balls again.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 11:31am
Ha, thats funny... midwest mice must be more resiliant! Ive been using them for 5+ years and theyve worked flawlessly. The first year, I put them everywhere except the small cavity between the cover and transom and mid way through the winter, I found a pile of acorns there. Added a dryer sheet there and havent seen any signs of rodents since. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 11:40am
Check your manual! There aren't too many things hanging off the transmission, I'm sure you'll find it. One of TRBenj's winterizing threads also has pictures of everything. ------------- |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 12:45pm
1. If looking at your tranny from the port (left) side of the engine bay you will see a cylinder about 5-8" long resting vertically (mine is) on the back of the motor block. Attached are 4 hoses. 2 on the ends for water, and 2 in the middle for tranny fluid. Most have a drain plug below the bottom oil line. 2 ways to drain: remove the drain plug, or remove the bottom water hose. 
Arrows are pointing to the water hoses. The circle is where the oil cooler is. You can see the bottom of it in grey. 2. Starboard plug should be towards the front of the motor (looking from the side) between the head and the oil pan. 
Look around here under the manifold |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 12:48pm
Now that is some funny stuff!
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 12:49pm
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I would siphon out the gas and use it, it's just going to be bunk in the spring.
I wouldn't use Sea-Foam it's a cleaner not a fuel stabilizer(check the MSDS) contains Isopropyl(IP)you don't want to add more alcohol to the ethanol. I would use Sta-bil ethanol treatment instead and put it in the tank then run and do the fogging. Then when you get home siphon out as much gas as you can. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 1:20pm
Wish I had a video of Gordie's face (he's 10) when he saw this pic. He said what is that thing?! I told him to look very closely and it took a minute but he figured it out. We both got a good laugh out of it. My lab lives to keep the squirrels out of the yard! He hates them more than I do. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 1:57pm
I use mid-grade containing E-0. I've read that Seafoam is BOTH a fuel cleaner and stabilizer. However, I know that there is much debate on the subject. I've had good results with Seafoam and don't see the need to switch to Stabil. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:01pm
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Glad yall enjoyed that pic. It's from an Army bud of mine. I wish I could post more of their humor as they truely take no prisoners!
With all sincerity, God Bless our men and women in uniform. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:04pm
So the mice go the other way when they see what you did to a moth? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:24pm
AMEN to that! |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:25pm
| Check back to my first post to see the list updates. I'm hoping this might help other newbies like me! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 3:26pm
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On the speedos, there is something about that in the owners manual: Last year I was able to get some water out by just doing the mouth to mouth method on the pitot tubes.
This year, I had already jacked the front of the boat way up, and when I went to suck water out of the pitot tubes, there wasn't any water left. So maybe the tubes/speedos self drain if you leave the front raised for long enough? |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 4:11pm
| Anybody have issues with pressure washing boat? Is it okay if I use the "automotive" nozzle? I have no decals on my boat right now. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 4:49pm
| I've heard you should keep pressure washers away from the teak swim platforms. Other than that, I'm not sure. |
Posted By: kvand347
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:15pm
Gotcha. No teak platform here...mine's composite. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:25pm
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I have never drained a pitot!!
I'm a believer in using a presure washer on the Teak!! Just don't get carried away with the pressure to the point it tears up the wood. Teak being such an open grain wood, there really isn't a better way of getting deep down into the grain to get the fungus/mold out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 3:44pm
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Does anyone think it would be harmful to add stabil to a tank of gas that already has seafoam in it? Any kind of negative reaction of mixing the two? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 12:52pm
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anyone? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:07pm
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Justin, the only thing I have read is that seafoam isn't a good stabilizer on it's own, because the cleaning chemicals it contains are in the alcohol family. And, alcohol/ethanol is already a problem as far as phase separation stuff.
If you were worried about it, maybe you could siphon the gas out of your boat tank and run it in your car or power equipment, and then refill your boat tank and put only marine stabilizer or Startron in it. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:20pm
yes ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:35pm
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If Im not mistaken, most of the fuel stabilizers (Startron, Stabil, Seafoam) consist primarily of naptha, which is in the alcohol family. If you have one in there, dont add more... I would think that too much stabilizer is not a good thing. ------------- |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: October-30-2017 at 10:37am
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Winterizing the GT-40 for the first time. Just curious if I can use the "pour in" method mentioned in this checklist for the antifreeze in a GT-40. Or to do it properly do I need to run it and use either a fake-a-lake, Timmy-T, or hose & bucket? ------------- '96 Ski Nautique '90 Boston Whaler Montauk |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-30-2017 at 11:10am
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Draining first and using the pour in method works just fine for your GT-40 No need to run it and suck it in. Just as a reminder 2 block drains, 2 exhaust manifold drains, j tube drain and drain the trans cooler either with the drain fitting or pull the lower hose off |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: October-30-2017 at 4:19pm
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Thanks KENO. I did get all the drain plugs. Did that at the lake then trailered it 10 miles home to hopefully move all the water out. Is there a step-by-step processs for the pour in method to ensure it's properly filled and roughly how many gallons will it take? ------------- '96 Ski Nautique '90 Boston Whaler Montauk |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-30-2017 at 5:17pm
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There are at least a couple of different ways that people use. One way is to remove the cover on the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat and pour it into the engine through the big hole where the thermostat was. You'll most likely need a new gasket but this way let's you look at the general condition of the thermostat also. Another is to unhook the hose from the raw water pump to the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze in through there. Leave it hooked to the thermostat housing and elevate the end that was at the raw water pump and pour in through there. I usually make a mess and spill some on the carpet doing it this way This is slower pouring but you don't have to take anything else apart. You don't get to check out the thermostat either. 3 gallons should do it when pouring it in. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-30-2017 at 5:25pm
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One other thing that comes to mind is the raw water pump itself. Pull the hose off the bottom of that to make sure it's drained. Some people leave the pump and impeller alone for the winter, others take the impeller out and sleep with it under their pillow for the winter. That's personal preference, you'll get people like Pete saying that his impeller has been untouched for the last 47 years or so and others that change it every year whether it needs it or not. Others that inspect/change it every 100 hours or so And others that change it when it fails
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