Transmission removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23893
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 3:47am
Topic: Transmission removal
Posted By: ultrarunner
Subject: Transmission removal
Date Posted: October-19-2011 at 3:39pm
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Ok folks, getting ready to pull the tranny. I took off the aft floor to see what I have, and attached the pictures. I made a link to the removal steps. Do I follow those step-by-step? This is a '99 Sport Nautique with the PCM 1:23.
Is there enough room to remove the trans w/o loosing the engine mounts or is that not possible? thanks, Ultra 
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Replies:
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: October-19-2011 at 6:55pm
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I will be doing the removal in a few days...
I think the rear mounts are attached to the tranny, so they come out with it, front one might not need to be loosened..as you will need to jack up the engine using a bottle jack under the exhaust manifold, to leave the engine level... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-19-2011 at 7:15pm
I found this quote from Eric from another thread:
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eric lavine wrote:Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-19-2011 at 7:44pm
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So easy a jbear can do it. ------------- |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 1:17am
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Transmission removal surgery successful!
No big surprises, and here is how it went. We first prepped the area as usual: work carpets, zip lock baggies for hardware, etc... 1. Winterized engine and associated plumbing. 2. Removed the 4 coupler bolts, and slid shaft aft. This required a slight tap on top of the coupler to separate it from the other half. 3. Removed the transmission cooler lines. The top line from the transmission, the lower line from the cooler (as the fitting on the lower line is easier to access on the cooler side). 4. Loosened both front engine mounting bolts. This necessitated the removal of the shower pump on the right side, as this pump is just aft of the engine mounting bolt, and a half-inch drive sized socket would not go on all the way. This also required a VERY long ratchet handle (torque wrench size in our case), as it's likely these bolts were factory torqued and had never been loosened on my boat. This seemed to be the case on ALL the bolts in this project. 5. Removed the two wires from the 'you are not allowed to start in gear' sensor. 6. Removed the shifter linkage and safety-tied out of the way, and replaced the upper bolt for safety. 7. Removed the 2 lower transmission mounting bolts. Use a long ratchet extension. These are easier to get at if you jack the engine first and don't mind working under it with it blocked up. Just depends on your comfort level. I got to them easy enough without the engine jacked up. 8. Removed both rear engine mounting bolts where they mount into the transmission. Use short-well socket in 3/8 drive and no extension, as a long extension puts you too close to the stringers. 9. Positioned a small jack on small piece of plywood, and set the jack plate directly under riser. 10. Jacked engine/transmission upward 3 to 4 inches, and then blocked on both sides under the riser directly on top of the stringers for safety. 11. Removed the upper transmission mounting bolts. 12. Slightly tapped top of transmission to loosen from bell housing. 13. Slid transmission aft and when spline clear (just a couple of inches) up and placed on towel. 14. Removed remaining transmission cooler line. Noted transmission fluid inside the bell housing on the bottom. This would indicate a main seal leak at the spline (see picture). Is this a correct assessment? Noted the same on the inside of the transmission as well at 6- o'clock position. I'm on a milk-crate hunt tomorrow, but all-in-all it went well with two of us working, and neither of us having done it before. I haven't searched yet for the thread on the procedure to set the shaft alignment, so if anyone has a link handy.... Next, is there anything else I should consider doing while this is all apart? Anything with the shaft, etc.. I suppose it's a good time to check or change packing to Goretex? I thought I'd take the opportunity to put on new trans. cooler lines and certainly flush the cooler as Eric indicated to do. Thanks so much for your help so far. I'll post some more pics tomorrow in better light. Note: Engine/Transmission 450 total hours. Boat is a '99 Sport. 
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Posted By: critter
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 1:47am
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This Youtube video was made at Green Lake that may help...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc - Alignment 101 This is Erics alignment thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6037&KW=alignment&PID=58701&title=span-classhighlightalignment-span#58701 - Erics Alignment ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 2:40am
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Thanks for both links Critter. Also stumbled upon a cutlass bearing removal video. Very slick.
I'll check tomorrow, but I think my up and down engine adjustments can be made at the front mounts on my set up. I do see the adjusters on the aft mounts also, on my own picture above. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 9:42am
  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 9:48am
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ahhhh, and risk messing up his hair?, i picture him more as the cooler attendent ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2011 at 11:24am
And keep him away from anything sharp!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-21-2011 at 11:05pm
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Allright, with some better light, and up on the bench, I took a more careful look. As indicated earlier, I had a chronic leak, not visible while the engine running and transmission in gear.
So, upon inspection tonight, I notice plenty of fluid at 6-O'clock but dry around the mail seal. So, I decide to take off the back plate to investigate.... I immediately notice the damaged o-ring at the bottom, and notice this is at an exit port for fluid. Bingo! I also notice this strange notch at the 9-O'clock position. What is this? I don't have the manual handy, so is this normal? A notch for a screwdriver? This plate rotated right off with hand pressure. So Eric, et. al., does it make sense now just to swap out the o-rings, main seal, pressure plate and back together? Thanks, Mark 
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-22-2011 at 11:01am
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thats a first, at this point i would change the seal and o-rings and polish the shaft where the seal rides. the knotch is normal and I dont know what its purpose is, if your daring, throw a rear seal in it, turn the trans upside down to completly drain it and go fresh, and a new damper. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-22-2011 at 11:03am
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this is assuming that the trans had zero drag..... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: October-22-2011 at 1:19pm
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Sounds good Eric. I'll call you Monday to arrange getting the seals and o-rings. How do I determine the drag?
thanks, Mark |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-23-2011 at 11:22am
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call DIM, they sell those parts seperately, i really dont want to see you ponying up 186.00 for a seal and gasket kit, the drag was meant for when the boat was in the water in neutral idling, the boat should not move from transmission drag ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: October-25-2011 at 1:22pm
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Eric - is a little play normal/acceptable? My shaft does jog while the engine is on; nothing that I can't stop with my foot and it doesn't move the boat.
I too have an untraceable transmission oil leak and would like to fix it when I remove the engine. However, the engine is 27 years old and to my knowledge, it is the original transmission. Am I better off just sending it to you to avoid the inevetable? -Jeff |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-25-2011 at 1:53pm
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27 years old with a PCM trans? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: mzajac
Date Posted: June-27-2015 at 11:01am
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Is the flywheel the same on reverse rotation 351 as normal 351. I have a 74 Martiniqe |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2015 at 1:38pm
The flywheel doesn't care the direction it turns. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |