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1978 Nautique Mechanical Refurbishment

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24091
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 5:42am


Topic: 1978 Nautique Mechanical Refurbishment
Posted By: DrStevens
Subject: 1978 Nautique Mechanical Refurbishment
Date Posted: November-08-2011 at 2:27pm
Belts and hoses,battery connections, impeller, plugs...   I was lookng for a list of things or parts to check or replace for an 1978 Ski Nautique besides the big items, such as an engine rebuild or transmission overhaul, or structural work. Also, what is the name of the part that allows one to hook up the motor to a hose and run it safely out of the water. Thanks,   Steve



Replies:
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: November-08-2011 at 2:59pm
You can use the http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FAK01 - Fake a Lake to run it in the driveway.
Along with the plugs I assume you're going to do wires, cap, rotor etc...




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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: November-08-2011 at 3:09pm
Points still? If so, I'd suggest keeping another set in your inventory. We ran into some troubles this year and now keep a few extra sets around just in case.

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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: November-08-2011 at 3:27pm
not just battery connections, all connections
tune up kit components (points, cap, condenser, rotor, plug wires)
Transmission fluid
alignment
filters (fuel, oil, raw water, but I dont think your boat has a raw water filter)

By flush part, I am guessing you are referring to the Perko Flush kit. Most people recommend against them. Not because they are so bad (tho there have been stories of failures) but because they are a $145 expense you dont need. Its easy enough to pull your intake hose at the thru hull and either clamp a garden hose into it, or extend it and drop it in a bucket and draw from the bucket (recommended on occasion so as to verify your raw water pump is good)

Some folks put a T fitting on their intake hose for about $15 in parts as an alternative that requires less fuss when you want to flush.




EDIT: I started this before all the other responses but got called away before I posted, so some duplication to above, but a few new things too, so I left it.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: November-13-2011 at 3:11am
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:



EDIT: I started this before all the other responses but got called away before I posted, so some duplication to above, but a few new things too, so I left it.


work getting in the way of posting Larry?



john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: November-16-2011 at 8:29pm
Be careful with the "Fake a Lake". I bought one and used it once. Found that I could not trust it to stay in proper position...tight against the hull. It would shift, especially when I got back up in the boat, and slide out of position not providing enough water.
Now I disconnect the the hose that draws water from the thru hull fitting. Run the garden hose into it and clamp it down. Got to make sure you have a garden hose that is sturdy and won't collapse (check for kinks in the hose, make sure you have consistent water flow).


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: November-24-2011 at 8:39am
Opinions please on parts sources, skidim, marineparts.com ...    Thanks


Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: November-24-2011 at 4:06pm
I also would stay away from the fake a lake. You can get all the parts to build the one in the picture above from Lowes.

Might want to check your raw water impellar. There are some little brass fittings on the ends of your throttle cable. I have had those break.

Skidim is a great source for parts. you could also check My correct parts. They are a site sponsor.

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83Ski


Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: November-24-2011 at 4:09pm
Get some pictures of your boat up Steve

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83Ski


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: November-25-2011 at 12:43am
Picking boat up tomorrow


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:00am
My PCM manifolds are green, does any one know what the color is, I want to repaint. I have seen photos of other boats on CCF with green, they are faded and I don't have a decent photo.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:20am
Like this?


Thats a waukesha engine then, That picture is keeganinos, you could PM him or Im sure someone will chime in where to get.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:45am
Waukesha became Pleasurecraft- so the parts are the same, and the colors should be too.

Im pretty sure Keegan or Marty eyeballed the green color they used on his manifolds... they look pretty good but are probably a little on the bright side. Try and get as close to the original color as possible! Faded is better than nothing... clean them up and use that as your sample to match.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 11:57am
If you could get a bolt out of the riser or something that had some paint on it you could take it in to an auto paint shop and they could probably match it.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Primary-Paint-Color/Green/?keyword=engine+paint - Check out this search on summit

They have grabber green (maybe what keeg used) and kermit green.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 1:14pm
Thanks guys, my motor is old Ford blue, the manifolds/risers are a darker green, closer to the grabber green by Rustoleum. I will try to post some photos, it is hard because I am primarily using an iPad which makes the photo uploading difficult.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 1:27pm
Are you sure its Old Ford Blue? I havent seen that color matched to green manifolds- at least not originally. Keegan's motor (above) is probably that color. The Waukesha's and early PCM's had dark blue (navy-ish) blocks, which had the green manifolds paired to them. Ive seen a few all-blue motors (manifolds included) that were a little lighter shade. By '79 or '80, PCM went to silver and black.

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Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 2:11pm
Tim, I am not sure of the blue color name, it is a darker, more Navy than Keegan's motor, so is the green, darker. I believe these are the original paint colors, it's too worn to have been redone. I have also seen a 77, or 78 posted on CCF within the past month that looks like mine, just can't find it. I wil post a picture next week, I realize that is the best way to get a correct answer. Thanks for you input, Steve


Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 2:27pm
For those that have cut in a "T" on the freshwater pickup from the thru-hull 90 how do you keep the hose water from running back out the thru-hull opening. I have always done the bucket method but for the $15 bucks would like to get a "T" connection on mine, but the only way I see doing it is get a ball valve between the 90 for freshwater pickup and the "T" connection to keep the hose water volume on the pump side.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 2:27pm
try to take some pieces somewhere and get them matched. Thats your best bet. Or just get some rattle cans that are close if you arent worried about exact. Maybe it looks darker because everything has a thin layer of grease on it.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 2:27pm
Does it look similar to one of these?











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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 2:31pm
Originally posted by MAN - GA MAN - GA wrote:

For those that have cut in a "T" on the freshwater pickup from the thru-hull 90 how do you keep the hose water from running back out the thru-hull opening. I have always done the bucket method but for the $15 bucks would like to get a "T" connection on mine, but the only way I see doing it is get a ball valve between the 90 for freshwater pickup and the "T" connection to keep the hose water volume on the pump side.

No need for that extra valve- thats the beauty of the tee. The pump will self prime. If the hose cant supply as much water as the pump wants, then it will simply pull some air through the intake grate to compensate for that. With a valve shutting off the intake, you stand the risk of collapsing the garden hose and running the engine completely dry... which is not a good scenario.

With a simple tee, so long as you have enough water to keep the impeller lubricated and the engine cool, youre golden. Even weak water pressure is fine- it doesnt take much water to accomplish the above 2 things under no load.

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Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 3:18pm
Tim, it looks like the bottom 2 pictures, those are the photos I have seen but could not find again. Any idea what that color blue, and green is called. Do you believe that is the original colors, that red nautique looks to be around my 78's vintage. Thanks!


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 3:53pm
I pulled those pictures from 4 different boats in the diaries- all from the '74-77 vintage. I would say that if your engine matches them, then its the original colors.

I cant help you on the particular colors- I havent had to match them before. I do think the Rustoleum Grabber Green looks pretty close, at least on this monitor... but youre best off going to an auto parts store to see what they have thats close. You'll want to use high temp paint on the manifolds, and preferably the block as well.

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Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 4:00pm
Ok, thanks, old Ford blue is name I thought I had looked at the auto parts store,and internet search. I will check again, it is definitely a darker blue and green than Keegan's. There are at least 3 shades of Ford blue depending on the era.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 4:15pm
Just for reference Steve I painted mine 1941-48 Ford Blue



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 4:27pm
I found Eastwood paints has a Dark Ford Blue used from mid 70's through 1980. Gary your color, and engine look great, where did you get your valve covers?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 6:21pm
My valve covers Steve are part of the original Holmam Moody conversion.You can get chrome ones at just about any Ford vendor. Don't tell anyone but I added 35hp just by changing over to these



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-28-2011 at 8:09pm
Thanks Gary, that is the type of result I am shooting for, really amazing when you see the starting point on some of these boats.


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-29-2011 at 11:43pm
Going to pull my engine, any threads that exists for how to,tips?


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 11:43am
uhh well, it has been documented. I just did it. Just unhook the wiring harness, the batter cables, the water line, the throttle and shifter cables, the 4 bolts in the coupler from the tranny to the shaft... I dont think anyone really did a step by step. Its not too difficult. Do you have a cherry picker? Just make sure you have clearance to get over the side of the boat, so dont make your chain to long or you will not be able to get it over. I know some people have had to let the air out of a tire to get it over the side.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 1:30pm
Yes, I have an engine hoist, having not done it, seems daunting. I suppose the more skillful part is reassembling the watch. Your tip on the chain length, clearance are the type of things I was looking for, pitfalls to avoid, thanks.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 2:46pm
ya may want to measure a bit and run the hoist up all the way and see what kind of clearance you have. You could always remove the oil pan to gain some clearance. That would be a last resort though. Watch the valve covers too, the chain will want to bind against them and you wouldnt want to crush them so if you use the lifting rings that are on the heads you cant make that chain too short. Just dont get in a hurry.

Also on mine the drive coupler was really froze on. After I removed the four bolts, I worked a putty knife inbetween and pushed forward on the engine and it came free.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 2:48pm
It took about an hour from start to finish to get it on the engine stand. The engine was out in 20 minutes took more time to get it adjusted so it would sit on the stand. Really pretty simple.

Also obviously you will have to unhook the fuel line from the pump, plug a socket extension or big screw driver in the hose so gas doesnt pour everywhere. I think thats everything I can think of.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 5:24pm
Probably try it in about 10 days, then tranny to Medina to visit Eric's FF hospital, and engine to be worked on locally. Thanks a lot Justin, how is your project?


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 5:39pm
well its coming along, I will probably get to work on it more this weekend. I am just about done grinding, which will be nice, Im tired of the dust and itching. I also have most of the wood fabricated so hopefully things will start going quicker.

I havent touched the engine yet, just sitting on the stand. Hope no surprises lurk therein, like a rebuild. Yuck.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 6:30pm
Doc,
where you at in OH?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 7:05pm
New Albany, a northeast suburb of Columbus, boat to spend its time in Michigan.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 7:07pm
ya I know New Albany,I used to live in dublin, so very familiar with Cbus. Well too bad you arent closer to canton, I would offer to lend a hand.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: December-30-2011 at 7:11pm
Thanks for the advice, and offer to help, your post replies are a help.


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-07-2012 at 11:38pm
Nice day here, used onand off, and 3m rubbing compound and an orbital polisher to clean up my gel coat. Looks a lot better, thanks to all the CCF posters about how to do this.


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 2:26am
Originally posted by DrStevens DrStevens wrote:

Yes, I have an engine hoist, having not done it, seems daunting. I suppose the more skillful part is reassembling the watch. Your tip on the chain length, clearance are the type of things I was looking for, pitfalls to avoid, thanks.


A few things that may help are removing the near exhaust manifold and setting your boom hook short but still long enough to swing. Pulling the carb may allow a shorter lift chain and it's delicate. Another delicate may be the distributer.

I haven't lifted a 351 in a long time so some or all of this may be off. Just try to think ahead a few steps and realize that most things will lose against a chain with an engine hanging on it.





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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 9:55am
Thanks Greg, nice photos, post some of you 79 pics when available please.


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 10:13am
Welcome and thanks Doc. Here's the 79:







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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 10:29pm
Gary, have never seen one that color, the "Brown Pearl". Is that an original color? Thanks


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 10:30pm
Sorry Greg, my mistake


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 11:30pm
The carpet and upholstry were original I think and I know the skirt on the trailer was. The brown hull was paint and there was reddish bottom paint under that on the low side. I hadn't gotten to fixing the paint when the BFN came up so I can't swear to the gel color on the hull.

One note I should have included with that engine pic...it was all pre-CCFan. Thanks guys, I know better now.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: January-09-2012 at 11:42am
Also doc, remember with tranny on she will be A** heavy, I found that positioning the hoist right over the back bowl on the carb was a fairly well balanced spot to lift from. I agree on removing the carb, its easy to pop off and just better to have it out of the way. If you drain the oil first, if you really got into a bind you could pop the oil pan off and that could give you the extra clearance you need.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-15-2012 at 9:34pm
Any suggestions for removing old decals, the correct craft since 1925, flag? They are worn out but still stuck to the boat well, I don't want to dig holes in the gel getting them off.


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: January-15-2012 at 10:57pm
Heat gun and your fingernails,,, Be careful though as one can burn their fingers.

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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: January-15-2012 at 11:06pm
I used a heat gun and a plastic putty knife like you use for body filler. Any remaining glue can be removed with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: January-28-2012 at 8:30pm
Just dropped off my boat with mr Eric la vine today, planning on having him upgrade my boat.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: January-30-2012 at 11:49am
good choice!

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001






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