Carb Rebuild '88 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24175
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 10:00am
Topic: Carb Rebuild '88 2001
Posted By: MI-nick
Subject: Carb Rebuild '88 2001
Date Posted: November-19-2011 at 9:10pm
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Got started on the carb rebuild this weekend. Researched a bit on this site and elswhere...didn't really find any good photos so here you go.
Of course I have a couple questions. here is the carb on the bench. i read somewhere to make legs with bolts. i thought it worked really well. 
first thing i did was remove the primary bowl. it took a little gentle prying but came off fairly easy. this is what it looks like underneath. 
inside of the primary bowl. after the bowls were off, i took out the floats, the needle valve, the plastic "protecter" and then the seat. 
secondary bowl off and view of the secondary metering block. the screws are 5/16" "clutch" head...first time i've ever used my clutch head bits. 
next i took off the primary metering block...again, with gentle prying. after the metering block was off, i screwed in the air/fuel adjusting screws until they were seated and recorded how many turns so I'll have a good starting point when it's time to reassemble. next out was the power valve. a 2.5 came out and a 2.5 came with the rebuild kit. finally the jets came out. 
primary metering block 
next the choke and secondary diaphragm assy came off. and finally 8 screws to separate the main body from the base. now for my questions. 1)do i need to disassemble the base any further before soaking?? 
2)do i need to remove the accel pump nozzle (one internet guide said i should)?? to do so it looks like a need to take off the overflow tube first and then the choke plate. seems un-necessary and maybe a little risky to take off the overflow tube.  ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Replies:
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: November-19-2011 at 9:25pm
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No on the base, yes on the nozzle, but you dont need to take off the J vent.
What was the issue you were experiencing, it looks pretty clean to me. Make sure to soak the main body and shoot air through the tiny air bleeds on top of the horns. Those clog up easily. You will also be changing the accelerator pump and secondary diaphgrams. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-19-2011 at 9:49pm
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how else can i get to that big phillips head screw??
i was having as issue with hesitation/miss and sometimes it would die while idling in gear. i will be changing the accel pump but wasn't planning on changing the secondary. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 1:34am
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Good pictures Nick. Keep it up. This is great info. ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 11:26am
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why wouldnt you change the secondary? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 11:49am
i don't know...i've read that it's not really necessary unless i have some high speed or lack of power issues...which i don't. why should i change it?? ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
eric lavine wrote:Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 12:15pm
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Murphy's law - If you don't change it, it will fail later & you have to fix it twice. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 12:15pm
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well, go by the odds, if you do replace it chances are you will not have any problems in the spring,,,,but if you dont... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 12:30pm
If it's your first, open it over an open shoe box.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-20-2011 at 1:11pm
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i guess it's cheap insurance...so why not.
now, what about the how do i get the accel pump nozzle out question?? ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 4:28pm
Great pics 
I have also read (on the site of a certain well know ski boat parts supplier) that's it's not typically necessary to replace the secondary diaphragm. The rational is that this diaphragm is never (or shouldn't be) soaked with fuel, so it's less prone to deterioration. That said, probably wouldn't hurt, although they don't come with the kits; separate part. Another guy on this site had a helluva time with those J-tubes. Wound up breaking them off and then drilling to get the rest out. The book I have makes it look really easy to get out the nozzle... but the pictures where from an automotive application. I guess you could try a screw bit, with a 1/4 inch drive universal joint, extension and ratchet, but you may have trouble getting enough torque. The kit does come with a new accelerator pump diaphragm, but you keep your nozzle in there anyway. Do you remember if you were getting a good pump shot? The book I read strongly recommended against further dissembling the throttle body (base as you called it), because the throttle plate screws are such a PITA to get out and then re-stake on re-assembly. But they said not to soak it, because the throttle plate shafts have tiny nylon bushings that could get damaged by the carb cleaner. |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 5:33pm
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J tubes are easily removed by driving a very small flat blade under the "bulb" at the base. use a larger screw driver to pry it up the rest of the way. The tubes are about half an inch or so long, and they don't twist (don't ask how I know :)) Yes, you will need to take the choke plate off to get the accel pump nozzle out.
To note : some of the older model carbs had a steel ball inside the the accel pump nozzle, make sure you pay attention to how that all comes apart, as the "instruction sheet" is not too clear on that area. Good luck! |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 12:24am
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[QUOTE=Dreaming] J tubes are easily removed QUOTE]
define easily 
i tried...but, not very hard. didn't seem wort the trouble to me. i was able to get the accel pump nozzle out with a rube goldberg extension set up. i also took the secondary diapragm assy apart too...why not. can I get a new one at NAPA or is this a "marine" specific part?? regarding not soaking the throttle body...are there any passages I should try to blow out with carb cleaner?? the butterflies move smoothly so i'm not too worried about it. nozzle out 
nozzle parts 
rube goldberg 
secondary diaphragm assy disassembled 
i noticed this bushing/spacer on the choke butterfly linkage...is it ok to soak?? it doesn't seem to do much and would be a PITA to get out (J tube). also, how long should I soak all this stuff...hour, day, winter??  ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 12:58am
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Unless you have some old school carb cleaner I'd put it in.The new stuff is not as strong as it used to be.Soak it for a couple hours scrub it with a stiff bristle brush and use some aerosol carb cleaner for the passageways. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 10:04am
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If you don't mind paying shipping, you can get your secondary diaphram here: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HOL135-4 - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HOL135-4
I can't imagine it's marine specific but I'd want to get a real Holley one. As far as air passages in the main body, the book I have said there are a few, but only a few air passages and restrictions. Other than... the venturis themselves
|
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 12:08pm
i don't want to pay shipping...i'll see what i can find locally. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-06-2011 at 11:54pm
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got some work done over thanksgiving and now starting to put it all back together. I have 2 questions that i'm hoping you guys can help with.
1) Do I need to check/adjust the float level?? if so, what should it be?? 2) Regarding the vent baffle (black plastic piece) in the last picture...is it in the correct location/orientation?? soaked all the big parts at my dads place and blew out everything with compressed air 
primary metering block clean 
fuel/air screws and new cork gaskets 
these are all the parts that came in the rebuild kit from DIM. honestly some of the parts don't appear to be as high quality as the old parts. 
primary metering block rebuilt 
i couldn't find a new secondary diaphragm locally and ended up ordering a new one from DIM. old is on the left. 
secondary and choke back on 
secondary metering block rebuilt. 2 gaskets came in the kit that could have gone between the secondary metering block and the secondary metering block plate...i used the one that looked like the old one...second time (and maybe last) i've used my "clutch" head bit... 
is the vent baffle in the correct orientation??  ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 1:24am
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Take it to your auto parts store and have them boil it before re-assembling. ------------- |
Posted By: P71_CrownVic
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 1:37am
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Ok...here comes my OCD kicking in.
When you need to take pictures of something very close up, zoom all the way OUT and look for this logo on your camera: 
That's what is called "macro mode". It's a fancy term for 'super up close focusing'. Here are a few shots I took with macro mode: 
Thanks for the informative 'how-to' though. Very informative. 
 ------------- |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 9:17am
what??? ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 9:19am
i'm familiar with macro mode...the fuel/air screw and accelerator pump nozzle photos above were taken with macro mode. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 10:50am
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Did not know about macro mode. I was wondering what that tulip logo was on my camera for the last 4 years. I learn something on this site every day
Also don't know what the correct orientation for that vent baffle is. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 11:27am
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Thanks for the details Nick. Subscribed! I'm sure I'll need to refer to this in the future. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 1:36pm
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according to http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/2300%20Exploded%20View.pdf - this link the baffle orientation is correct
of course that is a 2 barrel 2300... ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:03pm
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i've been searching a bit regarding float level and found a variety of suggestions from "level with the top of the bowl" to 7/32" from the toe for the primary side and 5/16" for the secondary side...and even more info on this http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2737&title=holley-4160-float-settings - old cc fan thread ...now i'm thinking to just leave them alone ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:12pm
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It seems like "turn it upside down and make sure the top of the float is level/parallel with the top of the bowl" is the popular method.
It doesn't look like your carb has the externally adjustable floats. I don't think most of our marine ones have that, mine doesn't either. |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:14pm
Blowing it out with air will not remove built up varnish. Tim |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:18pm
Thats why he's soaking it (and then blowing it out with compressed air, presumably). Ive never heard of "boiling" a carb... it sounds like a fancy kind of soaking? Do most auto parts stores have this capability? ------------- |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:55pm
it was soaked, then i sprayed carb cleaner in the passages, then blew out with compressed air. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 2:58pm
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We boil all our denim. ------------- |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 4:00pm
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My local shop will boil it....
Just the part where you blew it out....not sure if you had soaked it or now. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 5:08pm
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Ugg I hope I do not have to do this any time soon. Mine looks kinda grungy when I take the flame arrestor off. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 6:00pm
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it's not that bad...the mass of information out there can be confusing though... ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 6:25pm
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If you put it back together and there's a bunch of extra piece left over, that's ok. ------------- |
Posted By: P71_CrownVic
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 8:57pm
Don't take it the wrong way..I wasn't trying to be an ass.
It just seems like a TON of people haven't a clue as to what macro mode is and I try and educate when I can. No harm, no foul. ------------- |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 10:52pm
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we use an ultrasonic washer for the carbs at the shop ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: December-07-2011 at 11:46pm
Harbor freight has one that goes on sale every once in a while. Have been wanting to get one for a while. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Mnboater
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 6:52am
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Boiling is an old term. It means to take the parts and put them in a parts washer which has very nasty chemicals like MEK inside. The little gooseneck tube pumps this fluid thorough whatever part you aim it at and hence boiling, for the constant movement of the fluid.
Most parts stores dont have this stuff anymore and new fuels are so mild, that they dont require its use. Check at your local airport. Those guys still have really strong stuff to do airplane parts with. Ask an old timer at the greasiest garage in town. He might know a guy who knows a guy. The technique really works and your parts will look like brand new after an overnight boil! ------------- Bruce |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 9:53am
Bruce, I feel you are misinformed or are using the wrong terms. Boiling in a tank was commonly used (some shops still have them) for dropping an engine block into a heated tank filled with a caustic - typically sodium hydroxide. The parts washer is for just general degreasing and typically uses a stodard solvent and not MEK. The aerospace guys still use a vapor degreaser with TCE in it. We have one here at the plant and it is truely the best way to completely degrease a part since you are not recirculating dirty solvent back over the part like a parts washer does. Carb cleaning buckets of a solvent mix are available at all auto parts stores. This is what you want to soak your carb in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 12:32pm
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i used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKIIC/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002KKICI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1C2WEPR7ATRY08XYVFTP - this ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Mnboater
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 1:23pm
 I will take my whippin sir. I thought I had it right but will defer for a score of 50%. MEK is good stuff. Lethal of course but it works for cleaning stuff thats got goo on it. The parts washer might have lots of different stuff in it, but it certainly is WAY more effective than a spray can that some of these posts are eluding to. And Air can push a too big granule tight into an orifice, and there it will stay. Allowing amatuers the opportunity to improve on the time it took to rebuild the first time. How do I know? Yup been there. I can rebuild my snowmobile mikunis now on a hotel counter in about 20 minutes.
So what is the toughest stuff available for todays parts washer suitable for a carb? Is it worth it or just a waste of money and farm out the job to the guys at the local airport? ------------- Bruce |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 1:29pm
Nick, That's good stuff according to Billy. I wish I had found it for my last carb rebuild. I ended up with a 5 gal. pail of Napa brand and it was pretty weak. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 1:31pm
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Thats the same stuff I used on mine... good enough to strip the dichromate finish off a Holley if you soak it too long! (Dont ask me how I know.) ------------- |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 2:23pm
I throw all of the small airplane parts in that stuff to strip the paint off. Works great! |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 3:17pm
sure is...  ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 3:59pm
The Napa stuff wouldn't even take the paint off my carbs and that was after days of soaking!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: December-08-2011 at 11:27pm
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Nick,
You are inspiring me to rebuild my carb. Was that 3/4 Gallon container large enough to submerge the carb? I was quessing that a larger container would be needed. Donald |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 12:34am
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Don,once it's apart the widest part is the base where the throttle plates are,but it is thin.You can find another container that it will fit into and just pour the carb cleaner into that.The next biggest part is the main block and you can do the same.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 1:36am
Here are some before and after pic's of a 600 I did this summer to try on my boat someday-
 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 9:20am
i had to use a giant coffee can for the main body...the can I had was about the same size as a gallon paint can. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 12:41pm
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Gary, did you paint that with something? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 8:49pm
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Gary and Nick,
Thanks for explaining the size issue. So there are no hidden Nylon, Plastic or Rubber Parts that may get eaten up my the Carb Cleaner? Thanks, Donald |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 9:26pm
Justin, I used this Eastwood plating kit on the hardware
Then I sprayed this carb renew on 
I don't know how it will hold up I have not put in on yet. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 11:04pm
there was one nylon spacer on the main body that could be removed if you can pry the vent tube off and then remove the choke butterfly...i didn't do that and soaked with it on...no issues. i read (maybe on this thread) that there are nylon bushings in the throttle body...i didn't soak the throttle body. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-09-2011 at 11:15pm
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finished the rebuild the other day while i was home sick. i kept the vent baffle in the same orientation as one of the above photos (really there is no other reasonable way it could go on). i didn't monkey with the float levels either. the secondary bowl was dead nuts level. the primary was slightly less than level (i.e. higher fuel level)...some said level...some said it should have a higher fuel level...i left it alone.
i read that the float bowl bolts should be torqued to 40 inch pounds...my torque wrench doesn't go that low so i used the red neck method...the N on the wrench was 4" from the ctr of the socket...so i pulled with 10 pounds from that location with my fish scale...close enough. 
done 
and done. the balance tube was tricky to get installed and sealed properly in each bowl...just takes a little time and some twisting. 
these are all the old parts that were replaced 
leftover parts from the rebuild kit 
thanks for all the good advice ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: December-10-2011 at 6:51pm
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Nick,
Thanks for sharing. I am going to try this over the winter. Do you anticipate having to dial it in or on your reassembly you put everything back to orginal settings? Mine runs great but my Power Valve will hesitate about 1 out of 5 times I pull up a skier. Thanks, Donald |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-11-2011 at 12:21pm
i did put everything back to original, but i do still anticipated some minor tuning (air/fuel screws and idle speed). one think i forgot to mention above is that i hopefully corrected a high idle after a hard run issue. the secondaries were hanging open a bit...there is a rod that controls this that i removed and re-bend to eliminate any slop in the secondary butterflies...hopefully that should do the trick. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-11-2011 at 3:16pm
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I has getting the high idle after a hard run too - I rebent the secondary link & it solved the problem. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: September-18-2014 at 7:50pm
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An old thread I know but just seen this in the FAQ section, these cork gaskets are interesting as my carb doesnt have them. Although Im surprised they would fit as look to have a larger diameter than the screws? My tique has a tendency to stall when first dropping it in the water and shifting trans into gear, this problem goes away after the engine has warmed up but is an issue as it can take ages to first pull away. Maybe its due to not having these gaskets? The only way I can get around the issue at the moment is to crank up the idle screw, then once warmed up screwing it back down again. Although the PO has also removed the electronic choke, I suppose thats a more likely cause? Anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks
------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Nelson
Date Posted: September-19-2014 at 3:37pm
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Thanks for sharing all this. I have an old 4160 apart on my bench right now. I took it apart a few weeks ago and said to myself I'll remember where that goes...famous last words....lol..... This is going to save me some time. And I was wondering about the extra parts.... ;) ------------- 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-19-2014 at 4:06pm
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The threads actually bite into the cork, not the alumunum. So you likely have the cork seals, else the screws wil fall out. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-19-2014 at 4:15pm
Ahhh  Hence the Gently in the phrase "gently turn the idle screws all the way in, then turn out 1 1/2 turns..." I guess cork is one thing that would strip out even easier than aluminum. |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: September-19-2014 at 6:22pm
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Makes sense now, thanks ------------- '82 Ski Tique |