Perfect Pass and ignition switches
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24373
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 11:34am
Topic: Perfect Pass and ignition switches
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Subject: Perfect Pass and ignition switches
Date Posted: December-13-2011 at 10:46pm
|
I've noticed that this past year my PP wants to reset itself when I turn the key. Not a problem if wveything is in perfect tune and I don't need to feather the throttle a bit, but a PITA when it's cold and I do need to help it. Once the PP resets it checks for cable tension and if your moving the throttle the servo gets all outa wack and leaves a bunch of slack in.
Question is this, I don't remember having to wait for the PP to do it's thing until recently. I'm wondering if there are different ingnition switches that don't throw everything to the starter relay when the key is turned. That's the only thing that I can think of that is causing the problem. The key kills all power except to the starter when turned. |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-14-2011 at 4:58pm
|
My perfect pass does pretty much the same thing. I usually get a few beeps after the motor is started before it will settle down. If I just turn the key to "on" without cranking the starter, it will beep for longer sometimes forever until I just hit "off" on the perfect pass.
I think it's because when the alternator is putting out, then and only then, is it getting all the voltage it needs. I think this could have as much do do with voltage drop when the starter is cranking as it does withe key cutting power. Have you checked that your key (ignition switch) is actually doing this? Usually you'd have to have your Ignition circuit energized at the same time as your starter or you wouldn't get spark. Joel (M3Fan) put his perfect pass on a little relay, so it could get power direct from the battery, but still be switched on by the key. Another option I've thought of is putting my Perfect Pass on on an unused accessory breaker instead of the key. Then, I would wait till the motor is started up to turn on the perfect pass. I also need to run a new positive wire from my 50amp breaker to my dash, so I'll see if that helps matters. |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: December-14-2011 at 6:21pm
| I put mine on a relay worked out much better ... |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-14-2011 at 7:06pm
|
Like I said, thinking back on it the only thing that changed was the new ignition switch. I don't mind the initial wait when I first start the boat, it just that it clicks on and off when the key is turned so I have to wait again for the servo to catch before I'm able to move the throttle and that's only an issue in the winter.
I've got a couple of ideas on a way to rewire it, but if it's just a part change then that's certainly easier. I'm kind of thinking about just running it to the stereo batteries which would get it completely off the dash. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-14-2011 at 7:28pm
|
I think when I install mine Ill just add a switch for it. I am not putting mine in the dash anyway so I can just add a switch in the console I make. Glad you brought this up, never heard of this issue before. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 12:37am
|
I happened to have this video of my boat starting up before I added by piggy back ground. This is a view directly at the Perfect Pass. It has gotten way better, but I still have a little bit of what Don is describing.
|
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 1:35am
|
I recognize that beep beep beep, I found a nice 3 bank charger that I put on last week and haven't heard it since then. I do listen to stereo a bit while I'm cleaning up so the batteries weren't fully charged before. My problem though is once past that point when the key turns the PP starts over again, I don't hear that happening to you. I think it's more than a voltage drop because it kills the whole dash no just the PP. I've checked voltage at the ignition breaker where the new wires tie in and it's loosing less than a 10th of a volt from the battery. That's as far as I've gotten, I'll have to rig something up to see what is happening at the key.
This is one of those pesky things that happens when I can't actually get the boat out and use it, I start cleaning and doing stuff like this. I haven't seen the sun since Friday and it's not in the 7 day forecast so I suspect by the time it comes out again I'll have either torn the boat apart or it will be spotless. Lol. While thinking about a switch to turn it on after the boat is running I realized that wouldn't work. With the PP servo not powered up I believe I'm in the same position and have no throttle control. I'll have to check to make sure that's correct. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 1:57am
|
I ran mine most of the first season I owned the boat without the Perfect Pass working at all. Lifting the dog house and turning that little manual tensioner thing, had become part of the routine. I'd just hit off as soon as it started beeping at me.
My boat just came with it and I didn't know much about it or see the use for it until we were doing more wakeboarding and realized what a good tool it was for holding low speeds. At one point, I did some minor wire clean up, and at that point, if I shut off the blower just before cranking it over, the perfect pass would do it's start up routine successfully and be usable. Then, after adding the ground, it would work all the time. When it does its start up, the servo motor goes through a sequence that takes the slack out of the throttle cable. I still had throttle when it wasn't working, I just had a lot of slop and didn't have full throttle. And, if I hit off, without letting it finish, you couldn't use the PP. It sounds like your ignition switch really is the issue then. I was just wondering about voltage drop, because you just added a new distributor retro kit, right? I was thinking that maybe that put more of a draw on things or maybe something else had maybe changed. Of course, Protec probably demanded just as much juice as a traditional ignition. It does seem like the PP systems are fairly hungry for power though. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 10:00am
|
I bet your servo was still powering up even though the PP was was off. It was so easy to watch it work on the DD and now I can't see it, but if I remember correctly it gives you a little cable the throttle pulls more and it pulls less and the arm on the carb floats in between. The default when it doesn't work is no throttle you just unreel the line from the servo and the spring keeps the throttle closed, thats a good safety system to keep you from having a runaway boat if it looses power. That super thin wires that power it can't be helping much I think I had to fold it over to have enough wire to get a good crimp that would hold.
Turning it off is definitely not an option, we have too many idiots on the water so the less things the driver has to watch the boat do more time they have to watch out for them. Worse part is half of them will come from behind to watch the foiler and it's a real PITA to have to keep an eye on someone behind you and stay in the right places on the river as well. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 11:22am
did you just run an extra ground wire in addition to whats in the harness? is that what you mean? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Bri892001 wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 12:23pm
Hi Justin, yup. You can add it directly to the battery if you want, but I didn't want anything above the floor that could be snagged. So, I threaded it through to run next to the harness wires. I have pics and stuff on this thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901 - New Ground Wire |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 12:27pm
|
Yep that's the easiest thing to do. For good measure you can run duplex wire with a hot and upgrade both sides. Mine are tied in almost in the same spot at the dash and about 6in apart at the motor so it's not much extra to do them both. The wire is a little more, but having them together means there is only one pull through the bildge, a real good thing with a Vdrive.
|
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 12:35pm
|
ya well mine is tore apart now so it would be easy to run. I have the wire already, I bought a bunch of marine grade stuff earlier in the year when I was having some gauge issues but after cleaning up connections it went away. However might be a good idea just to run them now and have them ready if I ever want. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-15-2011 at 12:37pm
|
^^Agreed on the duplex wire. I'll likely be adding a wire to do my positive the same way this summer. The main reason I didn't do it the first time was that I was unsure about where to tie into the breaker. The ground is a little simpler.
The other thing I would consider doing, is getting a little ground bus bar to tie every ground behind the dash into. The whole "daisy chain" ground thing provides too many opportunities for bad connections. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-22-2011 at 12:38pm
|
Don, I've been sub-consciously noodling your problem. I think I have a theory!
There are two types of ignition switches, according to http://www.nautiqueparts.com/ignitionswitches.aspx - Nautiqueparts , a 4 way and a 3 way. They don't offer much detail, except to say that up to 97 had the 3 way and 98 on had the 4 way. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SIEMP41040 - Skidim gets into it a little bit more. They only offer the 4 way, and explain it's a "Accessory-Off-Run-Start". My theory is that your boat originally had a 3 way, and you may have replaced it with a 4 way, causing your weird off-on cycle. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-22-2011 at 3:49pm
| I do have the 4 way switch. I haven't had time to get out and check, weather has been awful and I hate fiddling around dressed in multiple layers. Today is nice, but I'm working, tommorow I'm off, and it's raining with a chance it may turn to snow. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-22-2011 at 3:56pm
| It's a balmy 53 hear in Boston, partly cloudy but sunny. It's rare for us to have nicer weather in Boston than Texas. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: January-03-2012 at 10:55am
|
Got around to looking at this yesterday, the switch doesn't cut power to the accessories when I turn it to start. The voltage drops below where the PP is happy. So I cleaned up some contacts and replaced a few questionable connections that the PO did. It's getting better, but still dips down when the key is turned. I've got a few more things to replace and trying to figure out how many connections there are in the daisy chain from the ignition breaker to the starter, I think there are 5, but it gets a little hard to see around the breaker panel.
Undecided about wheather I want to run a new wire from the ignition breaker to the key, or move the PP power wire to the breaker panel. |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: January-04-2012 at 8:11pm
The Master at work! Check out that PEF Plaque at the end 
------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |