Starter Relay 90 Sport
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24588
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 11:26am
Topic: Starter Relay 90 Sport
Posted By: fanto3k4
Subject: Starter Relay 90 Sport
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 1:06am
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Background.... 90 Sport with 1350 hours... Original relay replaced 2 years ago because it would stay engaged. Go to replace the relay today and it does not work. Both the original and first replacement only had one wire (yellow with red stripe) connected to one of the smaller posts of the relay. The second replacement relay was wired the same way and did not work.
The boat was on a lift at the marina and I did not have a tester. My question is... Is the yellow and red wire running from the wire harness to the tranny neutral switch then to the relay the switched hot (+)? And did the two prior relays ground from the base of the relay and the new replacement needs a ground to the small post? I did test the relay when I got home and it does work when + and - are applied to the small post. 
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Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 2:12pm
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I'm trying to fully understand your question. Does your new relay have an additional post that your old one did not? And, why so many relays, you're not running a deep cycle battery are you?
This wiring schematic put together by TRBenj should help a little bit. In short, yes, the red and yellow provides switched power, which originates at the key, but the tranny has to be in neutral (and the neutral safety switch working), because that is another switch. So, switched power goes to another switch, which goes to your relay: 
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Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 12:36am
The faulty relay is a 4 post and the one I bought is a 4 post. No deep cycle battery. I figured the 4th post was a ground. I was just perplexed that the faulty one worked for 2 years without having a ground wire on the 4th post. I will make a ground wire this weekend and then take the old relay apart to see what is going on inside for educational purposes! Thanks for the diagram! |
Bri892001 wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 1:00am
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Hopefully Pete Brainard or someone will weigh in here as I don't have a picture of my own relay handy. But I don't think that 4th post is supposed to be a ground. I've done some casual poking around old posts, and the relay is supposed to ground itself somehow on the metal block it's fastened too. And I guess it's important to keep that contact point clean.
Obviously, one big one is for the positive coming from the battery, and the other big one is for the positive going to the starter. And, one little one is for that red yellow wire coming from your neutral safety switch. In some marinizations (not typically PCM) the ignitions is setup so the distributor (or coil) gets full, non ballast resisted, voltage, only when the engine is cranking, then normal, resisted voltage after the starter is released. My theory is that is what that other (I) post is for, but not used with the PCM marinization. I'm going to take a stab and say that maybe you had your red and yellow going to the little (I) post and not the little (S) for starter post. If you look at Tim's diagram above, he show the I post just hanging out not doing anything. |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 3:03am
| We tried hooking the yellow and red wire up to both and that did not solve the problem. As a test I hooked up a battery to the relay when I got home. When I grounded it on the base of the relay and positive to either small post nothing. When I attached a positive to the small post and the negative to the other post it worked fine. I just checked the box and the part # is a 581528. Google shows it as an OMC relay with an isolated base... Wrong part but if I can ground it I should be fine. Or go back and buy the right one! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 8:38am
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Eric,
Brian summed up the 4 posts on a typical relay very well. You state the relay you got is an isolated base so I feel you are heading in the proper direction with finding the terminal for ground. It's best you get the Ohm meter out and confirm which two terminals go to the coil. Then, if in fact the base is not the ground source, you need to make up a jumper wire to the block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 11:22am
All my confusion could have been avoided by getting the correct part the first time I guess. I made a jumper (ground wire) last night. I plan on skiing Saturday and will put this issue to rest. Thanks for everyone's help and the diagram is a great reference. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 12:28pm
| Sounds like you're on track. Keep us posted. |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 5:30pm
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Brian's comment about deep cycle battery....
I use to have two deep cycle batteries in this boat hooked up to a continuous duty solenoid that was activated when the boat was running (all the stereo gear was on the separate battery) rather the on a manual switch. The lower cranking amps of a deep cycle battery probably shortened the life of the starter relay? |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 5:35pm
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running the stereo gear on a deep cycle is fine but its not the right battery for starting that big ole ford iron. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2012 at 5:43pm
Yes and it's what welded the contacts in the relay together. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-13-2012 at 6:47pm
Ground wire was the fix.... Here is the old one... It was grounded to the base...
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-13-2012 at 7:02pm
Good you got it fixed 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-13-2012 at 8:38pm
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Eric,
Those contacts look pretty bad but I'm glad you got it fixed. I hope it stays fixed. A couple things to keep in mind with burning up relays. We already discussed deep cycle batteries being bad but the other is a starting battery in poor shape or run down on it's charge. Both will cause the same problem. It's low voltage causing a high amp load across the relay. (Ohm's law) So, never use a deep cycle battery as they do not like a high amp load and the volts will drop and the other is keeping a good starting battery in good shape/charged. When you store the boat, is it for extended periods of time? Maybe you have a parasitic load draining the battery? Have you checked for it? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: January-13-2012 at 10:47pm
| I am pretty sure it was the deep cycle batteries. The boat now has a 27 series starter battery. The boat is getting used a 2 to 3 times a month. I will make sure to keep an eye on the battery. I filed all the contacts down, but di electric grease on them, soldered the base ground back, and threw the relay back together. I hooked it up to a jumper battery and it works! I will throw it in the boat as an emergency backup! The battery is disconnected after every use! |