Repair of Rudder Assembly
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2478
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 8:49am
Topic: Repair of Rudder Assembly
Posted By: The Lake
Subject: Repair of Rudder Assembly
Date Posted: September-21-2005 at 1:07pm
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I was going to replace the packing for the rudder, having noticed more than a little seepage coming form that area. (I have a 69 SN). Inspecting it further I discovered that most of the water was seeping in around the plate that bolts through the hull.
On the outside of the hull there are four through bolts, they look to be carriage bolts, with the heads on the outside. It looks like I'm going to take the rudder off and the plate assembly that holds it in place, then reseal with marine calking. I will then also repack the nut. Anything else I need to watch for here? Thanks ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: September-21-2005 at 1:12pm
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Nope, you have the right idea. You will need a help as the bolts are not carraige bolts and will spin when trying to remove the nylock nut (maybe not if jamb nuts are used). It can be done without a helper, but is not very easy. I.E. you can wedge a spanner wrench on the inside of the boat and use a large screw driver to remove the bolt.
Now, with that said, if the bolts holding your rudder port are indeed carraige bolts with the rounded head then you need to replace them with the proper SS flat head counter sunk slotted machine bolt of proper length and size. Make sure you put sealant around the bolt before inserting or the water will follow the bolt into the bilge. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-21-2005 at 6:06pm
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You may get lucky when I did mine I did not have to have a helper. The countersink head and countersunk plate held the screw and I was able to tighten the nuts without any problem. I would guess that there is a slight change in the taper angles that make it lock up and not spin. You can make a mark on the top the screw and watch it as you are tightening the nut with an box end wrench and you'll see if turns. Good luck
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Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 8:52am
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Hey guys i have the same problem. Just bought an 82 SN and was cleaning bilge at home and noticed leakage around the rudder plate also. I am also going to remove plate and install new packing and seal. Any suggestions on marking the steering arm or anything. Mine has some chipped gelcoat on the stern side of the plate outside. I am going to repair and reseal. Hope its not a big deal.
Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Todd |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 9:05am
No need to mark the steering arm positin as the top of the rudder shaft has a square boss that will prevent improper placement of the arm on the rudder....unless you have the rudder turned 90 degrees from straight ahead on purpose.
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Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 9:21am
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David,
Obviously I'm a newbie.  Thanks for the input. The PO replaced the drive shaft and packing and he had some packing left, I don't know if I have enough. If not I'll order some from DIM. What sealant would you recommend for the plate and screw holes?
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 9:42am
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I recommend Life Boat Caulk. It is designed for use above or below the waterline AND never turns rock hard. It has some adhesive qualities, but can be easily seperated in the future. Some will recommend 3M 3200 or something like that, but I do not like the idea of "glueing" these types of parts in place.
You will need a minimum of three wraps of rope packing. I believe the diameter of the shaft is 1-1/4"...so you will need at least 4" for each wrap or 12" total. |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 9:52am
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Thanks! I've got to order some. Only have about 3 or 4". I agree with you I don't want to bond something that I might have to get to later.
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 10:05am
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Since you are a newbie, let me explain further. When I said three wraps, I meant three individual wraps, NOT one length wrapped around the shaft three times. Cut the flax packing so that the two ends butt tightly against each other when the packing is wrapped around the shaft. Stagger the joints of each wrap relative to each other...say 120 degree stagger.
Do NOT overtighten the packing nut. the goal is to compress the packing enough to stop water from coming in, but NOT so much that excess friction is created which will make the steering stiff. If you repack the drive shaft, you do it the same way, but not overtightening is even more important as overtight condition will overheat the packing and rapidly wear the shaft. The goal is just tight enough that you get a slow drip of water as the shaft is turning. The dripping water helps keep the packing and shaft cool to the touch even when at speed. Note that there are different sized flax packing, but I THINK you will need the 3/16" size for your rudder packing. |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 12:22pm
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I ordered from DIM today. They were super helpful. I will let you kow how it goes.
Thanks again!!!! 
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Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-06-2006 at 8:07am
| DavidF, I got the packing and wrapped it around the shaft and cut both ends at same time kind of like an overlap. 4 strands came out so I figured I would put 4 back in. When I placed them in the packing nut the ends didn't meet like they did wrapped around the shaft. Should I wrap around the shaft and then carefully place the packing nut on? Or did I screw up and need to redo. OOps! |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-06-2006 at 8:26am
| No, you are ok. Just make sure all the ends are staggered relative to each other and you will be fine. |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-06-2006 at 9:35am
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Great! I put them in the nut and then onto the shaft. Tried to get them so the ends met pretty well, figured when I tightened down they would expand together. I hand tightened only with two hands and then firmed up the lock nut. Gonna try to take it to the river this week and check it out.
Thanks! 
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Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: March-11-2006 at 7:33am
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Do any of you grease the rudder port, where the rudder shaft goes through? ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: jameski
Date Posted: March-11-2006 at 5:33pm
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No. It's not necessary. ------------- current boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1977 - 94 Sport Nautique previous boat http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=601 - 78 Martinique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-13-2006 at 11:25am
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DavidF,
I took the boat out and ran it yesterday. The plate did not leak but the shaft did. I had hand tightened it at home and then was able to tighten it a little more in the water but only had a pair of channel locks to do it and they didn't get a good grip. I suppose I need to get a big cresent wrench and tighten down until it stops dripping. drip pretty steady, ont a stream but close. How tight should I make it? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-13-2006 at 12:28pm
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you need to have it as tight as possible so that you have 2-3 drops per minute if you used the waxed packing material. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-13-2006 at 12:49pm
| I used the goretex from DIM and hand tightened with two hands then tightened some more with the channel locks. Should I go tighter until it stops dripping or be concerned with damaging. the steering is still very free. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-13-2006 at 1:03pm
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tighten it down more until it stops dripping. The goretex I believe is a dripless material unlike the waxed packing material.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: March-13-2006 at 1:07pm
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Thanks 79nautique
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 7:33am
| The rudder shaft does not need lubrication, so dripping water is not necessary. Tighten it down snug with pliers and you should be drip free. |