Replacing cutless bearing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24811
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 9:41am
Topic: Replacing cutless bearing
Posted By: crobi2
Subject: Replacing cutless bearing
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:26pm
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Ok, finally getting around to it.
Leave the boat short on the trailer so you can drop the rudder (support the rudder so it doesn't hit the concrete when you unbolt it on top). Remove the prop, and propshaft. Check your alignment when you disconnect the coupling. Mine was better than 0.0005 (yahoo!). unscrew the lockscrews on the side of the strut 
Sawing the old cutless shell. Be patient, take your time, take breaks (repack your log and rudder) don't use your sawsall! 
fold the edges in with a screwdriver and light taps. 
Pull out with pliers  ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Replies:
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:35pm
The strut on this boat is almost 7" long. The factory put in two 3" cutless bearings one on each end with a gap in the middle of the strut. I have a 4 1/2" and two 2 1/4" bearings.
Now I know that I can just use the 4 1/2" bearing on the prop end of the strut, but since I have them, I think I want to use the 4 1/2" bearing on the prop end of the strut and a 2 1/4" bearing on the coupler end of the strut. What do you think? ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:43pm
You don't need to go "overboard" with the cutlass length. In fact, too much will just add to prop shaft drag. I feel your plan on using the 4&1/2 on the prop end and the 2&1/4" forward is a good one. Why no Sawsall? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
crobi2 wrote:Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:43pm
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Nice post. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. ------------- |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 9:01pm
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Thanks for the quick replies. I got the courage to do this job from reading all of the great "how to" posts on the site. I figured I would do my duty and post this to maybe help someone else do theirs.
So Pete, do you think it is ok to use both the 4 1/2" and 2 1/4" bearings together? The factory put in two 3" bearings. A 1 1/8" propshaft requires a 4 1/2" bearing. If I use both like I want to, that would be 6 3/4" of bearing, 3/4" more than the factory put in. Do you think that would still be OK? Pete, I also took your advice and got an A.R.E. double taper shaft and I will post pics on the install. Do you know how much torque to put on the shaft retaining nut? And how much torque on the coupling retaining bolts? ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 9:14pm
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Oh, and I was joking about the sawsall!
I have had one for many years and consider myself somewhat of an artiste with it. I, however would not allow myself around a strut with one. I am sure many other people could handle it safely but I was almost crying over the tiny cuts I made in the strut with the handsaw. (people have said that tiny cuts in the strut won't hurt it). 
Here's a picture of our baby! ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 9:20pm
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Rob,
You'll be fine with just an extra 3/4" of cutlass. I guess I just don't want for people to start filling the complete strut with a rubber bushing!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 12:16am
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I'm an artist with the Sawzall as well, but I did the first set of strut bearings by hand. Next time, Sawzall. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 1:14am
Strut bearing going in. 
Back of the Walters. 
Log in servicable shape. 
New A.R.E. coupling (left) and old coupling (right) 
Prop end of shafts. 
double taper vs single taper. 
Old shaft and new shaft (proof I didn't wrap it around a tree stump or something) 
Alignment at 0.0005 
Ready to test! ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 9:30am
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Looking good! If you can feeler gage to a half thou, you the man! For me, it seems to change that much during the check, depending on how I hold them together. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 9:49am
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Looks like you've been on Texoma, by the looks of the hull. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 10:26am
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If your old shaft is bent, I'd be happy to take the last foot or so (tapered end) off your hands! Shoot me an email: TRBenj@gmail.com ------------- |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:15pm
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Thanks for all of the replies. Chris I hear you! I couldn't do it consistently either (.002 feeler gauge in, .0025 feeler gauge probing) until I had lightly coated all of the parts in grease for final assembly. I think the grease held the halves together so I didn't "pry them apart" trying to get the feeler gauge in. I agree it's tough to do and everyone should watch Pete's CorrectCraftFan alignment video (I have watched it many times).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:20pm
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Ryan, the hull had that glaze on it when we bought it here in Texas. It could have spent some time on Texoma. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:49pm
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That glaze looks similar to what we battle up here in Iowa. Lots of silt in our lake so we keep a brush on the dock and scrub the entire hull now and then.
Again, great post! ------------- |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:52pm
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Tim, the old shaft is showing .0025" of bend. I got the new shaft because I didn't want to try to maneuver a 500 degree F coupler under the V-drive. I think .0025 is still serviceable if I have a mishap and cannot afford a new shaft just then (strut, rudder, fiberglass, arrrgcetra). I have also considered seeing if A.R.E. could cut the second taper into the old shaft.
I'm curious - were you going to make a spare prop holder or something even more ingenious? ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:55pm
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc
Another attempt at linking Pete's CCFan alignment video. Someone please help me if this doesn't work! ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:57pm
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Rob, that Air looks familiar. Did you get it at Buxtin's? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 2:57pm
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It's just going to be a spare prop rack. I forgot that you have a v-drive with a 1-1/8" shaft, so it wouldnt work for me anyways! Im not sure if being .00025 out is still serviceable or not, but it certainly might be. No worries either way!
FYI, CCF doesnt do "auto" linking. You need to use the globe button to create a hyperlink in your post. Make sure you delete all extra spaces before and after the URL. ------------- |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 3:19pm
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Thanks Tim, I'll try that.
Pete's CorrectCraftFan alignment video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc Ryan, I did get the boat at Buxton's but I bought her before she even got listed. The PO was going to sell her to a friend and sent the boat in to be inspected (compression etc.). The boat sat for a while and when I got there, Phil called the owner, who called his friend. The friend didn't pull the trigger and I immediately made an offer. So unfortunately (or fortunately) I had no nice dealer pics of the boat. Do you think you know this boat? ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 4:17pm
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It may be one a member here traded in for a 2010 and then it on a 2011(230) ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 4:17pm
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Where are you in TX?
------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-10-2012 at 5:20pm
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Where's Brian with the macro mode suggestion? Look for the flower icon on your camera, it will focus on the upclose object and take much better pictures than the ones you posted above. ------------- |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-11-2012 at 12:42am
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Ryan, I don't think the PO got a new boat. They had bought it in '05 and it kind of had the look of a family boat with few hours. Their last name started with P. First name I think was John. I think they just wanted out and were going to sell it to a friend but after Buxton's did the inspection, it sat on the lot until I got there. I was looking for a 1995 - 2006 210 hull and Phil had just sold a Super Sport that I was going there to look at. Anyway, Phil showed me this boat and then called the owner to see if he wanted an offer. We took her home in Dec '10. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-11-2012 at 12:46am
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Hollywood - Flower icon huh? I am such a newb. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: February-11-2012 at 12:50am
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By the way, water tested her today, she ran like a dream and with a little grease on the rudder shaft, turned like a dream. Packing was dripping about 1 drip every couple of seconds so I left it alone. I had the rudder packing very loose and it never dripped. Probably needs to wash out all of my grease first! ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |