what is?
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24969
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 4:26am
Topic: what is?
Posted By: notx2001
Subject: what is?
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:30am
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The red button on the plate here in the pic? It has a 50, I was thinking its some sort of resetable fuse/breaker? I was adjusting the oil cooler position and bumped a socket extension somewhere around these wires and made contact with some hot wire. Didnt think much of it and the next day i pulled it out in the driveway to fire it up and got nothing when i turned the key. I thought it was the fuse at ignition and that was ok, then fidgeted around back around this set of wires, pushing and twisting on the red button and then tried cranking and it fired up. took the boat out to the lake on sunday and it gave me no trouble since. Just wondering... thanks!
New CC owner, just picked up an 82' 2001, been lurking around here for a while. 
------------- 82-2001 |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 9:08am
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Aaron,
Yes, that is the main circuit breaker. At least you now know it works! Take some time to read some of the threads here on CCfan. Great info plus there are several with wiring diagrams posted. Do check to make sure your alternator is outputting. Sometimes they do not like direct shorts and the rectifier bridge will get knocked out. You can tell by your volt meter after starting the engine. That's when the alternator will be recharging the battery. Also, check what it was you shorted out. There should not be any open/bare electrical around the cooler. Welcome to CCfan. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 9:17am
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Aaron,
Welcome to Correct Craft Fan. You have got the main breaker figured out! 
I'm sure the next question will be tougher  ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: notx2001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 11:16am
Thanks, i guess I am just curious of it's reset physical motion, because i did not notice a whole lot of play on the breaker, just it being able to spin.
Appears to be working fine. I was on the water all sunday (post incident) and it was outputting ~14 volts all the time.
ya, ill have to go poke around with the multimeter. ------------- 82-2001 |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 11:36am
You probably just hit the lugs on the solenoid   ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:30pm
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Side note on your exhaust hoses, there should be dual clamps on the upper and lower connections. This is a Coast Guard mandate and a good idea too.
Ballast resistor should have two wires connecting it to the ignition wiring, I only see one wire? ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: notx2001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:55pm
Two ring clamps similar to what is on the tubes now is suitable? I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to american motors, and new to inboard boats...The ballast resistor is the white rectangle with two terminals? I just checked it. It has two wires connected it to it, but those 2 are on the same terminal (is that correct?). The side that looks empty in the picture is empty. ------------- 82-2001 |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:57pm
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It amazes me how much these guys see in a dark picture showing 1/10th the boat. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:04pm
Actually, to have both wires going to the same side of the ballast resister isn't always wrong. Some distributors do not use the ballast resister. My boat has an electronic Prestolite distributor and doesn't really use the resister, although, it is still there as a placeholder. It's the junction of a couple different feeds, including the choke, that are running off 12v switched ignition. In a setup like this the ballast resister is just a place holder, probably part of a mass assembled electrical setup. Someone may have changed your points distributor at some point to electronic and changed the wiring, so the ballast resister is just kind sitting there. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:50pm
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Brian, your Prestolite module requires the use of the ballast, as do all but the Petronix junk. But do, what you think is right, but I see a module failure in the future.
There is a reason they use the ballast, full voltage at cranking, then to a lower voltage after she cranks. The added voltage ends up as heat, and will shorten the life of the ignition components...... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:53pm
The difference between a hobbiest and a tech is looking at the "complete picture" Stupid does not make it Correct  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:09pm
| My resistor was fried when I got the boat and someone had already installed the ignitor 2 electronic trigger instead of points. They just had the two wires bridged to one post of the resistor to run the electronic trigger. I eneded up finding an NOS distributor for 87 and up with the plastic internals and It runs like a top with points. I will not be converting to electronic any time soon. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:21pm
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Hmmmm, there is such a thing as two wire distributor. Mine is similar to this one, which doesn't mention a ballast resistor on hookup:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038 - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038 Also, this diagram show the resister being bridged in certain applications, which is the same thing as putting both wires on one post: 
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Posted By: notx2001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:02pm
Do i have what looks to be a standard ignition setup?
 ------------- 82-2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:43pm
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Pull the distributor cap and take a look inside for an EI module. Brand would help too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:24pm
The ballast must be used with the points , they cannot handle the full 12 volts.This is the purpose of the second wire on your starter solenoid, it supplies full voltage to the coil/points/ballast during crank only, and low voltage in run...What type coil are you using with this set up?...Billy ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:29pm
The wiring diagram is only good for the Petronix or the Prestolite dizzy and OEM module.Neither have a a trouble free reputation. Mallory uses a 3 wire and it is wired just as a points system, New replacement modules for the Prestolite need a ballast also. ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:45pm
| Doc. I know you'll smoke points in no time with a full 12 volts. I switched to an accell super coil at one point because when it was warm at wot rpm it would break up after about a minute but it turned out to be a fuel issue. That coil has been on it with those points and that resistor I replaced for near 550 hours of operation with no problems. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: February-22-2012 at 5:12pm
Good information there. Thank you. |
Posted By: notx2001
Date Posted: February-24-2012 at 1:04pm
This is what i see under the dist.cap. No branding that i can see.. standard? El?
 ------------- 82-2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-25-2012 at 1:51pm
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That is a Prestolite EI. I have same dizzy & I am not running the ballast resister (have both wires to same side of resister, same as shown in the picture). This was advised by good 'ol '79 Nautique.
Supposedly, the electronic circuit inherently limits the current, therefore the resister is not needed. Here is a reference from a 'net search, cool that it brought me back to ccf. I haven't had any problems with my setup, but that thread ends with Tim announcing the death of his presolite! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10999&PN=1&title=prestolite-electronic-ignition-conversion - Ballast with Prestolite ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |