Winterizing a 84’ 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2508
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 3:09am
Topic: Winterizing a 84’ 2001
Posted By: vectwar
Subject: Winterizing a 84’ 2001
Date Posted: September-26-2005 at 3:39pm
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How can you winterize an 84' 2001? What do I need to do? Any help would be appreciated
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Replies:
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-26-2005 at 4:50pm
Get all of the water out of the block and replace with RV antifreeze that way you don't have to mix. There are several plugs to remove to drain things. There are two in the block one on each side. On the drivers side it is towards the front and on the other side it is towards the back, there is another one on the bottom of the elbow of the water pump hose in the front and at the very bottom, there is one on the rear of each exhaust mainfold and there is another one on the bottom of the tranny cooler be carefull with this one because it's just a tin can and you can destroy it if you don't use two wrenchs. If you have never done it before I would suggest posting where you live and maybe someone can walk you through it. If it's not done correctly you will be buying a new block come spring. You will also need to fog the motor and each cylinder and use gas stablizer in a full tank of gas and let it run through the carb some so you have stablizer in the fuel bowls. There are several postings here in the reference section and on skidim's website discribing it in full detail. You'll have piece of mind though if you can get some experienced help the first time doing it. Now if it's going to be in a heated garage or storage then it's a little safer and if you miss something odds are it won't cost you. But if it is going to be outside all winter and you are in a norhtern climate get help.
People are very helpfull on this site so let use know your location and provide the cold pop (beer) and I'm sure some will come over and show you the ropes it's pretty easy and doesn't take that long to do, most of us will change the oil and filters as well, That way come spring all you have to do is replace the plugs and hook a hose to the raw water pick-up check timing adjust the carb a little and your ready for the season. Well there is cleaning, polishing, waxing and those performance upgrades not to be over looked.
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Posted By: nates78ski
Date Posted: September-28-2005 at 8:34am
You should not use RV antifreeze in your engine. RV antifreeze is pink in color & contains no rust inhibitors. It is used on potable water systems that contain no ferrous metals. Use marine engine antifreeze(propolyene glycol, "blue beer"). Both are the same base except the engine antifreeze contains rust inhibitors for ferrous metals. Using the pink will cause corrision inside the block & manifolds.
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Nathan
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1463&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - My '78 Ski Nautique
<a href="http://photobucket.com/Nates78ski" rel="nofoll
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: September-28-2005 at 11:55am
IMHO: The RV antifreeze is probably ok to use because just having water/antifreeze in the block is an effective corrosion inhibitor as it helps keep the oxygen away from the metal. I really do not think any of the antifreeze(s) on the market have specific corrosion inhibitors in them. Some do NOT have phosphates, etc which helps fight corrosion on aluminum, but that also is really just a lack of ingredients that promote corrosion.
I am by all means not an expert on this subject, just my $.02.
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Posted By: vectwar
Date Posted: September-28-2005 at 2:27pm
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I checked out the location of the 2 plugs on the block in the location that was mentioned. I find 2 Allen head screws. Is this right, am I supposed to remove these 2? Will water pour out? Just want to make sure I do this correctly.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-28-2005 at 5:11pm
It sounds right. When you remove them make sure they are brass, there may be some paint on the heads but no big deal. If they are not brass then replace with brass one's. If you remove the plug in the bottom of the u-shaped pipe 1.25" dia hose below the water pump then it will drain most of the block as well and you won't have a mess on your hands. Otherwise if you remove the block plugs first it will get all over your carpet and you. If you have a digital camera take some shots and e-mail me them and we can make sure your right.
I'm with david if there is no oxigen then it cannot rust, and I have not seen the blue stuff in an antifreeze only washer fluid. If you read the complete label or back of the pink stuff there is a lot more information. My dad made me think I was using the wrong stuff last year so I used regular antifreeze and then went back and read the label past the "for potable water" and I'll be using it this year. I also asked several other boaters and they use the same pink R/V and haven't had any problems for years. To each their own I guess
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-28-2005 at 11:55pm
79; When I lived in Ohio (very cold in the winter) I always used the Pink stuff as I was told it was better for the enviroment. Never had a problem.
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"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: September-29-2005 at 12:40am
I've never used it (of course I've never winterized either) but there is a brand of "regular" anti freeze called Sierra which is supposed to be safe for the animals and the environment. Just a thought.
BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 1:10am
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Hi Guys. I simply use Prestone automotive antifreeze and haven't had any problems. Some people also remove the impeller for the winter to prevent the rubber from breaking down. Also, loosening the belts, making sure the boat is nice a dry before putting the cover on for the winter, and treating the vinyl are good tips. Good luck.
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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 3:13am
Matt,
Wouldn't expect any issues with Prestone as
far as the motor (although when I worked in a radiator shop we wouldn't use it because it was really bad on the aluminum radiators). I think the issue is when folks don't get it all out before putting it into the lake. Anti-freeze isn't so good for the critters.
I think the RV antifreeze and some others are supposed to be more environmentally friendly.
BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 2:08pm
Don't treat the vinyl, it will cause more mildew.
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Tim D
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 6:00pm
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I was thinking of removing all the water plugs, introducing some anti-freeze and while that it running thru the engine, fogging it and then continuing on preparing the boat for hibernation. Then I started to wonder HOW to introduce the anti freeze to the running engine? pour it into the strainer at the oil cooler? sounds like it would work, will it? How do you guys do it?
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 7:49pm
Trike; How I do it is; make up a 5 gal bucket of 50/50 water and the pink stuff...disconnect the hose off the water pick-up...add a short piece of garden hose to it and stick the other end in the bucket...get your fogging stuff in your hand and stsrt the boat...as the water is sucked outa the bucket ..slowly spray the fogging stuff in the carb...watch the level in your bucket...it goes down fast..when the "mix" is gone you are done. Some guys pull the freeze plugs and drain out the water but I don't and have never had a problem...easy and quick..hope this helps.
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"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 9:32pm
If you are using water with the pink stuff DON"T you are deluting it, the pink R/V antifreeze is ready to use no mixing is required. Also mixing a 5 gallon bucket and letting it suck it's way through is more work than you need to do. Remove the belt to the RWP (you should remove the impeller anyway so the belt has to be removed to remove the impeller). Disconnect the hoses to the exhaust mainfolds, remove the cover to the thermostat and remove the thermostat. Drain some of the water out of the block, the plug in the elbow works best. Replace the plug, pour straight antifreeze in to the block through the t-stat housing until full, start it up and let it run two minutes, you will see the fluid circulating/mixing. Turn it off check the mix level of the antofreeze and see if your guage floats 4-5 balls if so then your good to go, if not add water if you float 6 balls add antifreeze if you float less than 4 balls, you will have to drain some fluid out to make room. Once you have the mixture correct then you are ready to put the housing back on and fog the motor and cylinders. It is very inportant that you do not run it very long het a stop watch or fell the mainfolds. There is no water cooling the exhaust mainflods so don't let them get hot shut it down drink a couple of coldies and let it cool down before you mess with it again. It will take couple of times until you get the mix right.
It's a lot easier if you drain the block completely and use the premixed antifreeze but if you want to use straight antifreeze and mix it yourself knock your self out. USE PREMIX AND SAVE YOURSELF THE TIME.
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 9:47pm
79; Thanx. All the years I mixed it living in Ohio, I'm lucky I had no problem. Now in FLA there in no need, like BKH, I've got year round summer. I think I read on another post that you are relocating to TN. We have a place on Norris lake. You'll love it there.
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"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Posted By: trikeaholic
Date Posted: September-30-2005 at 10:18pm
on my old boats, I either drained them completley and left dry (my old 62 jet boat) or with my 454 sterndrive boat, I drained, and then had the mixed anti freeze and had the motor suck it up from a gallon can-had no problems, I guess I will just figure it out and have the engine suck up a gallon or 2 after its drained. It gets COOOOOLD here in winter!
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1980 Ski Nautique
Ithaca NY
http://my.break.com/media/view.aspx?ContentID=326707 - My Boat
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-01-2005 at 11:40am
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With a sterndrive its easy to recover the fluid since it goes in and exist basic at the same place. That is if the capt's call is off.
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Posted By: vectwar
Date Posted: October-06-2005 at 2:07am
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OK, so I took out the 2 plugs in the block, and like a gallon of water came out, but where are the plugs on the water pump? Do i really need to take the ones off the tranny cooler, and exhast manifold? I live in the SF bay area, the coldest it gets is about high 30's in the east bay. Will that do damage to it?
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Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: October-06-2005 at 2:36am
I live in the SF Bay and i never winterize my nautique and I HAD an 84 nautique.. maybe the same one? ha..
anyways,, just fill the gas tank to the rim, put in some stablizer. Filling the gas tank full will keep condenstaion from building up in the tank.
change the oil
change the tranny
clean the carb.. running the boat, shoot carb cleaner down the throttle body, cleaning all the crap out, use your finger to reve it up so you don't kill it.
Fog the carb body and then engine. To do this.. take fogging oil and shoot it down the throttle body when the engine is running just over idle until it dies out.
Pull the spark plugs, spray fogging oil in each cylinder, put the plugs back in. Turn the engine over once. (lines the cylinder with fogger for sure for antisiezing)
I would leave the water in the block. It will not hurt the engine and actually keep rust from forming inside. (Oxygen makes rust, if it is filled with h20, no oxygen make rust) typically the bay area does not get to freezing, so you should be good to go unless you live the top of mt diablo.
In the spring, after you burn through the blue smoke from the fogging, put new plugs in, points and you should be ready to go.
The 84 loves to eat points. Good to change out the Dist cap also when you do this.
Any more you need, I have all the 84 info you need. Long live the Commander Series!
tc
(now have a 1992 SNOB)
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