Starter for 351W GT40
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25111
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 4:30pm
Topic: Starter for 351W GT40
Posted By: mf01
Subject: Starter for 351W GT40
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 1:03pm
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I'm trying to find the model number for the starter on my 351w engine. It's a 94 with TBI (Pro Boss GT40). I've found starters at Skidim and Whitelake, but I believe they have a 100% markup on them. I believe this is the starter from Skidim (page 34 in the link): http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/Pages%2031-38%20InBoard%20Starters.pdf
I can find that starter for $118. Anyone have any insight? Thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 1:25pm
| Do you have a picture of the starter that's on your boat now? Does it have a solenoid right on it or does it just have the "hump"? |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 1:32pm
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It has the solenoid mounted directly to it. Can that solenoid be replaced separately? It could just be a solenoid problem.
The starter does look it was an addition at some point. It's wired from another solenoid. Red large wire to the input of the other solenoid and yellow wire to the output of the other solenoid. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 1:47pm
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I'm not sure if the solenoids directly on the starter can be replaced separately. I don't think so.
Check out M3Fan's post in this thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23479&KW=starter&PID=317909&title=00-sport--surging-starting-questions#317909 - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23479&KW=starter&PID=317909&title=00-sport--surging-starting-questions#317909 Your boat may have come from the factory with a double relay setup (remote and starter mounted relays). Or, someone may have retrofitted as such to use the newer style starters. Before you go replacing your starter, confirm that your remote relay is sending juice to it. |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 3:24pm
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My main issue is weak starting. When the engine is cold, it will take 2 really long cranks to get it going. If it sits a while, it won't crank at all on the first key turn.
I did replace the normal solenoid, but it didn't change anything. I believe it's the starter, but I've been hesitant to spend $230 on a whim. Now that I think I've found the starter for half the price, I'm tempted to purchase it. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 3:27pm
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What kind of shape is your battery in? Also, you're using a starting battery, right? A lot of people mistakenly install deep cycle batteries.
Also, go through all of your wiring, take things apart, clean sand, re-install/click back together and use dialectic grease. Clean your battery terminals and connections as well. |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 3:50pm
99% chance your battery cables are corroded causing high resistance. |
mf01 wrote:Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 4:33pm
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It's a true car battery Evermaxx 65N. It's cranked the same since battery was new.
Battery cables could be the cause. These look to be original. What gauge would you recommend? |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 4:48pm
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I didn't really state how long I've had this problem and what I've tried. Basically it's been the same since I bought the boat in 2007. I've replaced the battery, cleaned and checked voltage, replaced the solenoid, and made sure the engine was tuned up (adjusted TPS, replaced spark plugs, replaced fuel lines, PCV valve).
What I haven't done are pretty much listed here. Replace battery cables and starter. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 5:04pm
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Kind of hard to recommend what to do when you don't fill in your profile.If you have alot of money,sure just start throwing parts at it eventually you'll get it to work. Our family has engines going back to the 40's,we have yet to buy a starter. Take it in to an electrical shop like http://local.yahoo.com/info-35749758-mg-automotive-electric-arlington-heights - here they can test them and if need be repair rather than replace. Check your yellow pages or the web for a place near you. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 5:15pm
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I've seen this place recommended a good place to have replacement battery cables made up:
http://genuinedealz.com/ - http://genuinedealz.com/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 5:15pm
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I'd at least double the size of cable that's in it now. Also a good indicator of bad cables is getting voltage at the battery when cranking and then voltage at the starter when cranking. Disconnecting the battery cable to the starter and then getting a Ohm ready across the starter relay will also tell the condition of the contacts. It should be near zero. A low voltage condition will cause a high amp (Ohm's law) load on the relay. That can weld the contacts together. Have you been doing any trouble shooting with a volt/ohm meter?
I too have never replaced a starter. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 5:34pm
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I put 1/0 in mine last year when I replaced them. It will still fit through the battery box hole, but it starts getting tight. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 5:41pm
| I've checked voltage at battery, first relay, and then second relay. They didn't change by much, but I didn't check it while cranking. I'll get an ohm reading across the starter relay on the starter. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 7:08pm
Without cranking the engine over, you will getting voltage readings not indicative of a load condition. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-05-2012 at 9:23pm
| I'll second the Genuine Dealz recommendation. Great service and very quick, if you make your own cables get some extra solider and fittings it takes a couple of try's to get the process dialed in. |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 1:28am
I took out the battery cables today. The ends were pretty nasty. I started to file them down to copper color.
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 2:35am
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Is the black lead the before picture and the red one after you filed? Once you have gone thru the silver layer and exposed the copper it will corrode even faster ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 8:36am
This comment was not about the termination - that's a given that they need to be clean. It's the inside of the cable themselves. Moisture gets in under the insulation and the copper corrodes. They do not use the good marine rated cables at the factory. Marine rated are tin plated and have a better insulation grade. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 12:38pm
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Hmmmm, wouldn't have guessed that about over filing the terminal ends. Good to know.
Of course, whether or not the fix is permanent, if you see a chance in the way your starter behaves (ie cranks stronger), you know you're on the right path, and it's not the starter itself. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 12:50pm
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That is the tinning put on to slow down the corrosion.That is also the difference between marine wire and automotive ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 1:54pm
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The picture is before I started to file them down.
I'm going to purchase some new cables while I have the floor and clamshell out. I've wanted a longer positive cable, the current one barely reaches my Blue Sea switch. Has anyone used this place: http://greatlakesskipper.com/ ------------- 2011 SAN 210 |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: March-06-2012 at 4:40pm
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I took the advice on here and ordered double the battery size cable. Had 2 gauge, so I ordered 1 gauge. Also I went ahead and used Genuinedealz. I'll have 1 gauge running all the way to the starter. ------------- 2011 SAN 210 |
Posted By: mf01
Date Posted: August-09-2012 at 9:01pm
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After spending a ton of money on cables, I gave up on this issue. I still have the starting issue with a new solenoid. Does anyone know if this starter will fit the boat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-MARINE-STARTER-18-5920-70125-70114-70110-70200-/360401248268?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e996a00c#ht_3426wt_1397" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-MARINE-STARTER-18-5920-70125-70114-70110-70200-/360401248268?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e996a00c#ht_3426wt_1397 ------------- 2011 SAN 210 |
Posted By: pmt2234
Date Posted: October-20-2012 at 12:09am
| I got the starter on my '84 rebuilt for $80 about 6 yrs ago. Might be an option. |