Pull out Cleats
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25265
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 7:25am
Topic: Pull out Cleats
Posted By: iguana92
Subject: Pull out Cleats
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 11:12am
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Looking for some advice on installing pull out cleats. Should a backing plate be installed for added strength? Any other tips on installation would be appreciated. ------------- iguana92 |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 1:22pm
| I did notice on Nautiqueparts.com, that there a few different designs. They definitely look like they'd have different cutout profiles. |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 1:42pm
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You really should add backing plates of at least quarter inch flat stock. Many popup cleats come with backing plates. You also want to make sure you have the depth for the recess. You will also need to determine what to do with the drain water that will seep through the cleat. Most have barbs to allow you to run a drain hose to the bilge or over board drain. ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 2:01pm
I'm wondering if some designs don't require a recess? This design looks like it might not. Drilling holes is one thing, cutting out a foot print for a recess seems like another level of work. I'd be curios to know the answer on that. 
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HatterBee wrote:Posted By: iguana92
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 2:53pm
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I ordered and received the cleats from nautiqueparts.com (http://www.nautiqueparts.com/cleatpullup6stainlesssteel.aspx) and they do have the drain. However, no template for drilling or instructions. I spoke with a local fiberglass guy and he recommended an aluminum back plate. He also quoted me a price ($200 for both) to install. I'm not real comfortabel drilling into the fiberglass and would prefer someone with experience to handle it. ------------- iguana92 |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 3:52pm
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Do it yourself, it isn't that hard. Just remember 2 important, key steps! 1.) Measure twice, cut once. 2.) put some masking tape down and drill through it, never put your drill bit directly on the gelcoat and start drilling, this is how spider cracks will form. Also, helps to be using a new, sharp drill bit. ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 5:08pm
The recess I am referring to is depth for the bolts and drain barbs. The ones you have posted are great because they only require holes but others especially larger cleats will require more work. The depth of the bolts and nuts would be my main concern. Allen. ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 5:23pm
| Thanks Allen. I understand what you mean now. |
Posted By: iguana92
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 6:35pm
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I've read some other threads and this task maybe easier than orginally aniticipated. I understand the best method is to use a 1" hole saw in reverse to scar the gel coat and just go slow. Use masking tape and measure twice. I will be using a backing plate. If others have done this previously and have tips, please share. ------------- iguana92 |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 9:22pm
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Your close to Race City Marine in Mooresville. Give them a call, they will help. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 10:03pm
| Run that hole saw bacerds all the way through. Then you need to bevel the gelcoat back from the edge of the hole. Basically you don't won't any of the bolts to be able to contact the gel coat, it brittle and that will lead to spider cracks. |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: March-19-2012 at 10:18pm
I put some on that don't leak or require a recess. Spring loaded button activated.  ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: March-20-2012 at 2:19pm
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I installed them on my '95. Had nightmares of drilling the holes wrong the night before I installed them. These were the lowest I could find, they work great. I made a template out of plexiglass and used the template taped in place with double sided tape to line them up and mark the holes. Make sure there is no bracing or things like that under where you want them before you drill. They are also spring loaded.   
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Posted By: iguana92
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 2:06pm
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gun-driver - Did you use a gasket or other type of sealer. The cleats I bought did not come with a gasket. ------------- iguana92 |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 2:52pm
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I'd use 4200. But if you didn't want to use something so strong use 3M marine silicon. But I'd prefer the 4200. ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 4:12pm
| Mine didn't come with gaskets either. I thought about using some type of sealant but bought thick gasket paper from an auto parts store instead and made my own. I think the gasket paper worked better than a sealant. |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 4:17pm
I would have never thought about gasket paper and that would seem to be a decent option. I guess that I am just stuck in my ways with offshore boats. We seal everything with an adhesive type sealant. Usually nothing less than 4200 and EVERYTHING below the water gets 5200. All cleats and hardware will get adhesive sealant. Allen ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 6:34pm
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The same pull out cleats came from the factory on the 206, they are mounted horizontally on the gunwales, or side of the deck. They have been a bit problematic in that they tend to retract while under power. Replaced a couple times under warranty but it never fixes the problem. Ironically the fronts do not do it (maybe they are angled up slightly?), just the stern cleats where it's more of a problem and will catch your ski line. Seeker, gel is bright and clean however that is a lot of orange peel, are all Sangers like that??  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: March-21-2012 at 7:34pm
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I think mine is the only one. My last 2001 Sanger didn't have it. It shows up pretty well when you zoom a camera on it in the shade with bright sun from the south at 3:30pm. backlighting it. Other than that in full sun it doesn't show. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: iguana92
Date Posted: March-24-2012 at 9:11pm
Lost some sleep last night worrying about this, but pretty easy to do. I went the with paper gasket between the cleat and fiberglass....A good call. Also used 1/2 inch pressure treated as a back plate Thanks for all the good input - it saved me $200!  ------------- iguana92 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-24-2012 at 9:28pm
Looks sharp 
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