"Morse" throttle cable
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25676
Printed Date: September-10-2024 at 5:58pm
Topic: "Morse" throttle cable
Posted By: Tate
Subject: "Morse" throttle cable
Date Posted: April-21-2012 at 8:03pm
At the end of last summer my throttle cable broke. I tracked a 17 footer down at the local boat shop. I replaced it and it took forever for me, a layman, to adjust it where I thought it was "doable". After it was adjusted as well as I could manage, it still revved a little before it went into gear. I said something to the mechanic I use and he told me that he'd take a look. A week or so ago, he called and said "Tate, you've got the wrong cable.". I said "it's a 17 footer like the other". He said that I needed a Morse cable; something about the "travel" being different in same-length cables from two different manufacturers. "OK" I said. I got on Nautiqueparts.com and ordered a 17' cable. He called me last night and said that they "sent" me the wrong cable. It's Nautique Parts. How can any cable, of the right length, be wrong from a place called Nautique Parts? He reiterated that I need a "Morse" cable. Everything I find on-line says "Morse-Teleflex". What gives? I know what a Morse taper is but in this context, I assumed that Morse was the manufacturer's name. Anybody got any ideas? I gotta this thorn in my paw removed. Fast! Thanks!
------------- Tate
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2012 at 8:11pm
Unless the travel is too short, (I can't imagine it) I feel there's a communication problem here. No matter what the cable is, it's the helm control that produces the stroke.
Fill us in some more.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 1:53pm
When adjusting the throttle cable, the brass barrel must go past idle. It has to have tension so it does not try to "throw" during the movement between shifts.
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Posted By: FUN-9C1
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 3:03pm
What year is your boat?
------------- '86 2001
'50 Century Imperial Sportsman
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Posted By: Tate
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 3:04pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
Unless the travel is too short, (I can't imagine it) I feel there's a communication problem here. No matter what the cable is, it's the helm control that produces the stroke.
Fill us in some more. | Exactly. Right? How can a cable "travel" more (or less) than another? He said he'd run into this before and had to track down a Morse ("red") cable. I feel stupid asking this but are red cables available anywhere?
------------- Tate
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Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 3:36pm
Tate you can still get "red" cables. Teleflex makes them, they are their standard cables, Type 33C. The black ones are the Supreme cables. Not sure if this exactly what you are referring too, but non-the-less red cables are still available.
------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 4:19pm
http://www.go2marine.com/product/88803F/tfxtreme-control-cables-model-ccx633-replaces-33c-3300-series-cables.html-1037411789" rel="nofollow - cables at go2marine
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 5:53pm
The Supreme Morse "Red Jackets" were made for tighter radius bends, same "throw or travel" I've never actually measured, but it does seem like new cables do have a tiny bit less travel than the old. In that case you would simply move the barrel or quick connect ball to the next hole closer to the center of pivot (on control arm).
When you experience throttle before shift, you do not have enough tension against the idle. Your throttle cable is mounted to a spring loaded tensioner. Both control arms move when you are moving the shifter from "N" to "F" or "R". The tensioner takes-out that movement of the throttle cable. So, if you adjust the barrel on the cable to where the idle is on the carb, you will have no tension. Thus getting throttle before shift. The cable barrel needs to be adjusted "past idle" So, in order to re-connect the cable barrel to the carb you have to move the shifter (button pushed in) then manually move the carb arm to meet the cable barrel. But you have to be careful not to give it too much tension or you will make it hard to shift.
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 8:03pm
There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go.
1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb
2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse. 3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firn neutral connect your trans cable. 4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop whne it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done. This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right.
The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb.
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 8:16pm
81nautique wrote:
There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go.
1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb
2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse. 3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firn neutral connect your trans cable. 4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop whne it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done. This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right.
The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb. | Tate, Give it a try yourself. Then, once you get it, you can forward Allan's method to your mechanic!! Of course, make sure he knows YOU made it work!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Tate
Date Posted: April-23-2012 at 1:02pm
Lol! I'm gonna do it. Thanks yall!
------------- Tate
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