1st time out overheating
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25877
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 3:36am
Topic: 1st time out overheating
Posted By: cragginshred
Subject: 1st time out overheating
Date Posted: May-06-2012 at 11:55pm
just checked my impeller 2 weeks ago, looked good with no broken or damaged teeth so I never even removed it from the casing, Marked it with arrows to put it back correctly, however, i thought i tightened the belt enough. When I started the boat on the water it was squeaking from the impeller which led me to shut the boat down and feel the tension. Compared to the belt that is next to and above it, it seemed similar. I had the boat running for no more than 5 minutes at about 8 mph. I let the wife drive at roughly the same speed and she pointed out the red light that indicates over heating or low oil pressure. I shut the boat off check the oil -good, check the tranny fluid -good. then start it drive a bit to see the red light come back on and the temp gauge read about 200. The temp began to climb a bit and I shut it off again to let it cool. We were about 1.5 miles from the ramp so I began to make my way back slowly and the temp did rise to 220. A good friend who is a diesel mechanic said a squeaky belt is a loose belt and i am guessing it was not driving the impeller hard enough to get the engine cooled properly. Thoughts,.... and could I have damaged the motor from running it the short amount of time that hot?
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Replies:
Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 12:29am
Oh yeah the boat is a 95 Sport Nautique
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Posted By: Silver15
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 1:07am
Even though 220 isn't too terribly hot, it's much warmer than it should run. For that reason, I would tend to change the oil to be safe. Oil can curdle and lose it's lubricity when overheated. Not being able to see and hear it, it's hard for us to take a guess at it, but it is possible that your squeaking and overheating issues are unrelated.(Worn out water pump impeller or thermostat coupled with bad bearing). First, try and torque the belt a little more (Or buy a new one). If the water pump pulley was spinning, it should be pumping water, but it's possible you weren't gripping enough. You should be able to tell by just watching the pulley spin in comparison with the belt. If there are no outward issues, like I said, you may be dealing with a separate set of problems. Did the boat sit for a long period of time before you ran it last? Good luck! I'm sure others will chime in. Jake
------------- 2000 Air/Sport 1978 T16
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 10:46am
Don, Check all the hose connections on the suction side of the RWP and tighten them as well. Also check the gasket on your strainer.
On the squeaky belt, make sure the sheaves are aligned. It too will cause the squeak. Use a straight edge accross the face of the sheaves. All 4 outside edges should touch the straight edge.
220 is getting up there but it's not that bad. Our auto engines run that hot and they are using oils in the 5-30 range!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 11:07am
Auto engines have pressurized cooling systems and the temp that water BOILS at is higher in pressurized systems. 220*f is high in a non pressurized cooling system 1) take the belt off the R/W pump and turn it by hand
2) black rubber "dust" if the pullies are mis aligned
3) if the belt ajustment is loose try a 1 inch shorter belt
4) if you stop the engine when its hot the temp will continue to climb.
------------- - waterdog -
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 11:10am
Waterdog wrote:
Auto engines have pressurized cooling systems and the temp that water BOILS at is higher in pressurized systems. 220*f is high in a non pressurized cooling system. | Pressurized or not, 220 is still the same temperature!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 11:22am
8122pbrainard wrote:
Waterdog wrote:
Auto engines have pressurized cooling systems and the temp that water BOILS at is higher in pressurized systems. 220*f is high in a non pressurized cooling system. | Pressurized or not, 220 is still the same temperature! |
Morning Pete,
At 220*f in a pressurized cooling system you have water in a non- pressurized system you have steam and water cools much better than steam.
------------- - waterdog -
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 11:26am
Waterdog wrote:
8122pbrainard wrote:
Waterdog wrote:
Auto engines have pressurized cooling systems and the temp that water BOILS at is higher in pressurized systems. 220*f is high in a non pressurized cooling system. | Pressurized or not, 220 is still the same temperature! |
Morning Pete,
At 220*f in a pressurized cooling system you have water in a non- pressurized system you have steam and water cools much better than steam. | You are correct but what is the tip of the temp sender sensing?
Also, you need to factor in http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fluids-evaporation-latent-heat-d_147.html" rel="nofollow - the latent heat of vaporization . That in itself removes 1000 BTU's per Lb. of water.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-07-2012 at 12:03pm
Without the science that proves my point. An engine without a pressurized cooling system is damaged at lower temps that a pressurized one
Two things kill engines.
1) heat
2) friction
Two things kill beer
1) heat
2) light
------------- - waterdog -
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique
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Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: May-08-2012 at 12:34am
Good stuff guys. So the pulley was moving the wheel and it seemed to be pumping water but it was over heating. Because it was not doing this last fall and I just messed with the belt when I checked the impeller I am led to think it is loose and or not aligned. i will check the strainer gasket and all connections as well as the alignment with the straight edge. Bummer is I do not have a fake lake to run it on land. Any links to what fake lake works with my 95 SN with GT 40 motor?? Thanks
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Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: May-08-2012 at 12:36am
Oh yeah can i work on the RWP and hoses with the boat in the water? I am in a situation with a fake lake that I need to just back the trailer in to the water and mess with it there.......
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-08-2012 at 1:20am
cragginshred wrote:
Any links to what fake lake works with my 95 SN with GT 40 motor?? Thanks | http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3382564&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Encore%20Plastics%205-Gallon%20Polyethylene%20Bucket&CAWELAID=1024203963" rel="nofollow - http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3382564&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Encore%20Plastics%205-Gallon%20Polyethylene%20Bucket&CAWELAID=1024203963
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-08-2012 at 2:11am
Good one Paul I prefer one with more zddp I made this one up,on my boat it is real easy to get to the intake hose at the thru hull so I just remove it there and connect my bucket.Also makes it easy to add antifreeze when it's time too.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-08-2012 at 1:02pm
cragginshred wrote:
Oh yeah can i work on the RWP and hoses with the boat in the water? I am in a situation with a fake lake that I need to just back the trailer in to the water and mess with it there....... |
Actually, you can work on your RWP with the boat in the water if that's easier. Just be careful with anything that goes below the water line.
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Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: May-09-2012 at 12:34am
When I got in to it today I realized the GT 40 is equipped with a T and short hose at the intake by the strainer. I pulled the RWP apart to find a melted impeller. Put the new one in and hooked up a hose to my after market rig, verified it was filling the engine and put the RWP back together. Fired it up and the previous noise that I thought was the belt was gone (actually was the shredded impeller). The lesson is NEVER do a dry start in the spring following a drained motor from winterization.
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-09-2012 at 1:08am
Sounds like you're in good shape then
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Posted By: cragginshred
Date Posted: May-09-2012 at 2:33am
Thank you all for the always helpful info!
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