Strut Stuck
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26291
Printed Date: November-19-2024 at 12:16am
Topic: Strut Stuck
Posted By: Skibear
Subject: Strut Stuck
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 1:11pm
|
Newbie needs help. After owning outboards and sterndrives all my life, I just bought my first inboard, a ’75 Mustang 16 with a 302 in good condition but for a broken shaft. Previous owner was running an Acme 1210 prop. I have the slightly dinged original. Previous owner had also replaced the strut (6A6). The original was bent. So, I buy an A.R.E. double tapper shaft, study up on installation/alignment, and get ready to install. Inspecting all parts, new and old, I notice shaft wear in the stuffing tube. Then I see shaft wear in the top port side of the shaft log. So I slide the shaft in and slip the coupler and the 1210 on to see what’s what. Strut bearing good, appears to have no play. Shaft is high and left of center in forward end of shaft log, but is not touching. Shaft hub matches trans hub vertically but is off to port about 1/8 inch. Trailing edge of strut flange hangs about 3/16 inch below hull at center. So, realizing the strut needs to be aligned I set to the task. Nuts and bolts removed. Line tied in to keep it from falling. Now, previous owner used so much 4200/5200, I can’t get the strut off. So, how do I remove the strut without damaging the hull? Another concern: Is the Acme 1210 too much prop for this boat? I know others run it, but it seems like too much prop area and too much weight. I’m guessing the misalignment was the culprit in the shaft break but suspect the 1210 contributed. A note: I plan to lap the hub and prop on the new shaft, but the instructions that came with it said nothing about lapping. I called the 800 number and spoke with the man who made the shaft. He said he’d never heard of lapping and said not to do it. I thought that was kind of weird coming from a machinist. Thanks in advance. Great forum! I’ve already learned a lot. ------------- Murph |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 1:20pm
|
The 1210 is the correct prop for that hull and powertrain. It did not contribute to the shaft break. You can read up on it here, several people run it with great results (myself included). Youre probably correct that the misalignment was a big contributor. Can you align the motor to where it lines up with the existing shaft location? The shaft does not need to be perfectly centered in the log. I would do what I could to avoid taking the strut off... it sounds like youre pretty close to being able to align it where it is. If not, break out the big hammer. I was able to get a well-5200'd (the previous year) strut port out without damaging anything. Strange that a machinist hadnt heard of lapping. I cant see why it would be a bad idea to lap the new coupler on, but I'll defer to Pete. Lapping the prop on is certainly recommended. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 2:01pm
|
Murph, First, welcome to CCfan. We'll try to help with your questions but I'm sure we can do a good job with them. Most likely, the shaft was broken due to misalignment. If the coupling bore and shaft was fretted, it's the best indicator of misalignment. Check out the condition of your stringers. Considering the shaft is high in the log, the front mounts may be low due to some stringer rot. In a worst case. the 4200 or 5200 can be cut with a hot wire. A length of nichrome wire hooked up to a car battery with handles on each end will do the job. Getting it started is the problem. Try driving a wood chisel under one corner. The guy who told you he had never heard about lapping, is not a machinist. He's a CNC operator!!!! Our tool makers here at the plant have the lapping compound out every day. Unless two surfaces have a ground surface, a machined surface will always have high and low spots. I'd be more concered with the prop taper since the shaft and the prop come from different sources. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 4:42pm
|
Thanks for the welcome and the fast replies. Thanks, TR, for confirming the 1210 prop. I'd seen some of your posts about using it. It just seems so heavy I wonder if it wears out cutass bearings faster than a smaller prop. And Pete, thanks for brnging my attention to the front mounts and stringers. The port mount looks like it might be a bit low, but the stringer seems to be solid. I don't really know how to be sure short of taking a core sample. I quess when i get it all back together I can see how much things move under load. In resizing the pics below, I did notice the odd angle of the starboard mount forward (lag?) bolt. Could this be a sign of past problems? If there were no wear on the stuffing tube and shaft log, I'd probably align the engine and leave the strut alone. But, I don't don't want to take a chance on damaging the shaft log and stuffing tube further. So here I go getting deeper into it. I may try the wire before the hammer. I'm affraid I'd bend this strut with a hammer. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and advice. I'll share my progress.           ------------- Murph |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 5:15pm
|
Murph, Get some more pictures of the overall engine install. Something just doesn't look correct. That lag on an angle looks like they were hunting for good wood. Plus, they look new for a 75 boat. You sure do need a strut alignment. Unless you have the shaft propped up on the forward end, it's own weight in the rubber cutlass will allow it to sag showing a lower position than were it should be in the log. Take some pictures of the stringers too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 5:35pm
|
Pete, I was thinking the same thing about that lag bolt. I'll get some more pics later today. Got to get the critters to vet now. This pic is for a another friend following this thread. Hub on without key. Hub nut finger tight. 1210 on other end. Vertical alighnment good/even (couldn't manage to get a good vertical pic). Should shaft coupler be hanging lower than than tranny coupler at install?  ------------- Murph |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 5:37pm
|
Front end of shaft is unsupported in the above coupler pic. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 2:28am
|
Correction: the forward end of the shaft is not supported in any of the above pics. Well not much time for the boat this evening, and no headway. So far unable to start a wire between the strut and hull. If I take a hammer to the strut, as suggested, what part of the strut do I aim for, and how likely am I to damage it? Frustrated. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 9:07am
|
Murph, When the shaft is "happy" tuning in the cutlass bearing IE: it's concentric with the bushing fore and aft, the shaft should be roughly centered in the hull log. That's going to require the strut alignment(it's off). Support the front end of the shaft on some wood to remove the weight of the shaft. At this point is when the engine is aligned to the shaft. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21279&title=shaft-strut-alignment-video" rel="nofollow - Have you watched the alignment 101 video we have on site? Unsupported, the shaft will hang lower due to the weight but get it supported so you can make sure the shaft turns freely in the cutlass. Don't forget you want the pilot bores to match in the coupling halves and you need to get the mating faces within .003" with a feeler gauge. Score the caulking around the base of the strut and wack it with a rubber mallet at the bottom to see if you can break it off. WOW, the PO did a hack job on the engine/shaft alighnment!! That's what broke the prop shaft. Hopefully the trans is still good. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 11:57am
|
I'd use the BFH from the starboard side if I had to. Maybe a gasket blade would help to cut into the edges of the sealer? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 5:05pm
|
Ouch! PO is a smart, conscientious guy. He may have made a mistake with the new strut install/alignmet (it seems that way, but we don't know for sure and it does seem a bit tricky), but he had the balls to try it alone in his garage. And, he's been kind enough to offer to help me make repairs now. He loves this old boat and didn't really want to part with it. He's also following this thread. Now, Pete, yes I've watched alignment 101 a few times already. If I understand correctly, the strut installation - strut/shaft/engine alignment procedure should go something like this: (After I have strut off and surfaces cleaned, and prop and coupler lapped with new shaft.) 1. Attach and snug strut. 2. Insert shaft through strut and shaft log. 3. Snug on prop and coupler (double tapper shaft). 4. Support forward end of shaft in center of shaft log. 5. Adjust strut as needed to asure shaft is concentric in the cutlass. 6. Align engine by sight. 7. Rotate new, guaranteed to be straight, shaft to asure it is. 8. Mark strut position. 9. Disassemble. 10. Apply 4200 to strut and snug into marked position. 11. Install shaft (and packing) and support forward end. 12. Install coupler and torque to spec. 13. Snug on prop. 14. Snug coupler halves together. 15. Make sure shaft is concentric in cutlass - adjust shaft as needed. 16. Make strut secure. TORQUE? 17. Loosen couplers and align engine/trans to witin .003 inch. 18. Tighten coupler bolts. TORQUE? 19. Check shaft position in cutlass again. 19. Secure packing hand tight and set lock nut. 19. Torque prop nut to spec and install cotter pin. 20. Install rudder. 21. Float boat. Recheck alignment and packing. 22. Pat myself on the back. I know, it may seem foolish or a waste of time and effort to go through many of these steps twice. But having never done this before, I want to get things close before applying any sealant. Please let me know if I've left out anything or my sequence is wrong. Your suggestion for torque values on coupler and strut are welcome too. Also, how much 4200 is necessary for mounting strut? Just around the edge and bolt holes? Entire surface? Sorry to be so meticulous with questions. I just havent yet found this info written anywhere. Ever thought of writing a book? I know the stringers may be an issue. At the moment, they (and the floor) seem to be solid. I don't have the time or money to rebuild them now anyway. So, unless the motor's moving around under load, I'm going to run them as is. PO said this: "the lags on the motor mounts are new - I removed them for stringer inspection several years ago - someone on CCF had said they pulled out the lags and they were almost rusted out gone - when I removed the ones in there were rusty on top (hex head), but the lags were intact just like they were new - when I reinstalled I put the cut and lock washers on and bought new lags just to be safe - thus the reason they look new for a 75" I know what that starboard front mount lag looks like. But who knows the real story? At the moment, if it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it. Thanks again, Pete, for your time. Sorry I'm kinda long winded. I'll gets some more pics up soon. Murph ------------- Murph |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 5:40pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20098&KW=&title=shaft-strut-questions" rel="nofollow - Bad advice?  http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20148&KW=&title=strut-alignment-questions" rel="nofollow - Double Check? ------------- |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 5:51pm
|
We don't have to be mean here, TR. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 5:55pm
|
Stick around and you'll learn- we harass Pete any chance we get! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 8:24pm
And I can't pick up on what you're eluding too even after reading through the two threads you linked?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 8:31pm
|
SkiBear bought MAN-GA's boat. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 9:00pm
You 2 guys would not be getting trouble if you were working instead playing on the internet  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2012 at 9:01pm
Tim, I'm sure glad you're around to fill in the gaps that I miss! Mark, Sorry but there was defiantly an alignment problem with your old boat. Fill us in on the problems if you care to. It may be beneficial to others doing a strut/shaft/engine alignment. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 4:05am
|
Thank you Gary! Tim, I wasn't sure who you were talking to, but thanks for posting those links, more of my story. I'll have to read more. And Pete, I'm gettin' up there too. It's hard to keep up! Now, the good news! The strut is free. The bad news - I can't seem to swing my big mallet without getting in trouble. (Some things don't change.)    The words Murphy and boat are not a good combination in my garage at the moment. But hey, tomorrow is another day! And, my center console should be home from the shop, under budget, by friday! ------------- Murph |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 9:01am
|
Murph, Somethings going on!! A 75 should not have a recessed strut!!! No wonder you couldn't get under a corner with the wire. Where's Mark? We need to here the full story. This is not the end of the world but rather a small hill that needs to be climbed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 11:32am
|
Well, it's a rare bird I guess. Last four of the Hull ID- M75C. Look at the old strut at Tim's "Bad advice?" link above. It was recessed when Mark bought it. And, it has to be for the 6A6 to match the shaft log. What concerns me is how thin the cloth is there. Whatever, it's time to buy resin and cloth. Any advice on getting the surface right would be appreciated. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 12:17pm
|
Pete's right- that hull should not have a recessed strut. If it came that way originally, you'd have gel under the strut- not bare glass. I wonder if someone moved the strut forward and then recessed it? Is there any evidence of previous repairs in the area? Old holes filled, etc? Inside the bilge may have more clues than the outside, with the bottom paint. Get a measurement from the edge of the transom to where the strut is mounted- I'll compare it to my boat. ------------- |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 12:52pm
|
The hull side of the recess was white gel when I removed/replaced the strut. I am assuming that this was the original strut on the boat as it had all the brown sticky goo that took me a while to get off while cleaning up the area. On the bilge side all the original gel in the bilge matches with no sign of modification - the area is thickened where the strut mounting bolts go thru hull about 1/2" - 5/8" from what I remember. My guess is the 4200 I installed at time of reinstall pulled off the gelcoat when Murphy pulled it off thus revealing fiberglass. When I reinstalled the strut I filled holes with thickened epoxy and redrilled new holes per spacing on new strut base. The hole spacing of old/new strut did not align perfectly |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 1:17pm
|
Fascinating. The strut on the '71-72 Skiers were most definitely not recessed- which shares the same hull and strut (6A) as the M16 and Ski Tique. Neither is the 6A strut on the ~74-75 Mustang17 parts boat I have. I dont recall how the strut was mounted on my '78 Tique- if a change was made, then it may have been recessed as well? Pete, whats the story on your Tique? Back on topic: Mark, when you mounted the new strut, did you not get it aligned to the shaft log? That seems to be the implication here, right? ------------- |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 1:44pm
| Yes I had it straight in the log. I mocked up everything with a long dowel first b/c it was easier than trying to align with the heavier shaft. Then once I had this centered checked it all with the shaft in place before permanently mounting. I did have to get the strut mounting base machined because there was a high ridge front to back on the strut mounting base left from casting process to get it sitting level in the strut mounting recess. As for the rubbing inside the log and the packing gland my thought is that it rubbed when the shaft broke and was unsupported at the trans coupler - I did have to get towed and the shaft turned during the tow. I don't have any ideas on how the strut got off center - I know I didn't hit anything nor was there any signs of stress from hitting something |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 1:56pm
This is key. 1) Did you support the weight of the shaft and find where it spins freely in the strut, and make sure it corresponded to the center of the shaft log? 2) Did you confirm once you were permanantly mounting the strut (or even better, WHILE you were permanantly mounting the strut) that it was still in fact aligned to the log? Very small variations in strut location resulting from slop in the bolt holes will change alignment at the log significantly. Easily to the degree that we're seeing in the pictures above. On our BFN, we dry fit the strut and tested the shaft with the log to make sure we were in the ballpark. When we permanently mounted it, we bedded it with 5200 and snugged up the bolts, and rechecked it. It required a few taps with a BFH to get the shaft perfectly centered in the log. Once tightened down all the way, we checked it again. Im guessing one of the steps above got missed. ------------- |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 2:07pm
| I mocked up at least 10 times trying to get the darn thing centered - I cannot confirm that I checked it again after applying 4200 though so this is probably the downfall - I know that when I finally felt confident that all the bases were covered I sealed it up with the 4200 in the evening - maybe I was tired and thought I had done so much to make it right on the mockups that I never went back and checked as you say having to use the BFH. I do remember though supporting front of shaft when I bolted up and maybe this threw it out. Bottom line is it was fall 2010 which is getting past my memory. Right now it is all said and done and Murphy is going to follow through and make it right with the support of CCF |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 2:24pm
|
I've been wondering, too, if Mark did not support the forward end of the shaft in the log center when he aligned and mounted the 6A6. That would explain a lot. And, the slopping to port at permanent install is very possible. Seems to me from the amount of wear that the shaft was rubbing the log and stuffing box long before it broke. Another issue here is that the 6A6 that Mark put on is a lot bigger than the 6a he took off. I'll post more pics soon. Then I have to get some real work done. Mark, I think I found your coupler key. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 2:37pm
|
Tim, My Tique does not have a recessed strut base. Murph, All is not lost here. Let's move forward with a plan. If the strut base is tight in the hull recess, machine some (1/16" is plenty) off the base edges. This will give you some room to move the strut for alignment. Clean up the recess. Dry fit the strut to see what direction the strut needs to go. (support the front end of the shaft to take the weight off it - make sure the shaft is "happy" by turning it in the cutlass) Since the shaft is high in the log, we know the front of the strut base needs to be lower. Make sure you can also twist the strut some from port to starboard. Wrap the base in some plastic wrap. Mix up a batch of thickened epoxy and spread it in recess. Bolt in the strut using the shaft to check alignment to the hull log. Cure, remove, refit to check and bed in 4200. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 4:36pm
|
Thanks Pete! Sounds simple enough. We'll see if I can do it all right the first time. Lost a fair amount of glass with the stut. Would you replace it? Here are pics with masurements and inside conditions. Note, the rudder port is recessed too. Odd as well? Lots of stress cracks inside and one long, straight, side to side crack (arrows) that has me curious. I wonder if I should glass over this area to shore up any weakness that may have developed over the years.     Mark, I may have found your missing key.   ------------- Murph |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 4:53pm
|
Murph, Can you se any evidence that a repair was done around the strut and rudder port on the OUTSIDE of the hull? Check for an uneven bottom with your hand. It's just a thought here about why you have the recess's. I see some stress cracking on the outside but not inside. I wouldn't worry too much about it on the outside since that really isn't structural. Check close on the inside. Has the bottom been painted? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 4:55pm
While your back there fix your rudder connection as well. You need one of these ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 5:19pm
|
Murph, I just reread your post and missed the cracking problem the first time!  On the inside, I'd do some grinding to see how deep these cracks are. CC put a pretty thick coat of pigmented resin in their bilges. It's decorative and does need to come off anyway if a repair is needed. The repair is done on the inside.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 6:02pm
|
Pete, the boat was bottom painted some time ago. But, I don't feel any evidence of repair in the strut/rudder area. I'll start cleaning things up and keep you posted on my progress. And thanks Gary. I'll address the steering linkage when I get there. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 8:49pm
|
Well I gotta say that Mark used that boat well. He was on Lanier many times with wife, daughter and two sons, cruising, skiing (don't think I saw any tubing!) and enjoying a classic boat. Lot of stress on an older hull. Probably moved some things around a bit! But, hey it was worth it  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: June-06-2012 at 10:37pm
Nice looking boat BTW! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MAN - GA
Date Posted: June-07-2012 at 11:58am
| I really like that picture Jim you must have taken it as I don't remember seeing that one in my photo albums. Haven't seen you guys in the last couple weekends and hope all is going well with you. We'll have to get Murphy down on Lanier to introduce him to the Lanier crowd sometime. |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-07-2012 at 1:34pm
|
I'd like that Mark. Great pic Jim! Thanks! ------------- Murph |
Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: June-07-2012 at 7:44pm
|
Mark,yes,I did take that picture last year at Sunset Cove. Did not realize you had sold the boat until I found this post. We were on our way up 400 last Sunday to Charleston Park and blew out a set of wheel bearings. So, we did not make it last weekend. Hopefully, we will be up there this weekend. Murphy welcome to the club! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-07-2012 at 8:02pm
|
Thanks Jim. Sorry about the bearings. Been there. I used to live on Six Mile Creek. It'll be fun to run around there again sometime soon and meet you guys. ------------- Murph |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-08-2012 at 2:39am
|
I found the paper work for the clevis kit,it's Teleflex SA 27314 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Skibear
Date Posted: June-11-2012 at 1:58am
|
Thanks Gary. Not much progress to report. Life's had me on the go. Cleaned up the strut and started on recess. I haven't worked with fiberglass and resins in about 40 years so I'm having to study up a bit to regain my confidence.  Initial clean up.  Chasing a void.  Here between my finger tips the fiberglass ain't right. Tapping here I get a sound like tapping on a plastic putty knife lying on a Formica counter. A raspy sound compared to the thud of tapping elsewhere in the recess. I guess I’ve got to go deeper. I’m curious about why the rudder port is so well reinforced topside and the strut is not. I haven’t yet looked into how deep the stress fractures are topside above the strut, but am wondering if this whole area should be reinforced. How thick should the hull be above the strut? ------------- Murph |