Starter Relay 1980 351 Windsor?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26547
Printed Date: January-07-2025 at 5:25am
Topic: Starter Relay 1980 351 Windsor?
Posted By: Wacko
Subject: Starter Relay 1980 351 Windsor?
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 3:44am
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Hello, Just wondering if the starter relay from my 1980 Ski Nautique is marine specific or can I pick one up at an auto parts store? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 10:53am
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Its not marine specific per se... but many people have had problems with low quality, automotive ones. The PCM relay from SkiDIM is a sure bet. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 11:12am
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Craig, Sorry but I can't remember if you were having a problem caused by a deep cycle battery (or a bad battery). I was just curious about the need for the start relay? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 2:38pm
| I don't think it was the battery? I was having a problem with the engine not shutting down when turning the key off and found if I tapped the stater solenoid it solved the problem. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 2:50pm
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Engine not shutting off when you turn the key to "off", or starter not turning off when moving the key from "start" to "run/on"? Those are 2 very different things. ------------- |
Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 2:58pm
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It started off with the engine not shutting off when I turned the key to off then progressed to the starter not turning off when moving the key from "start" to "run". This was a problem I was having at the end of the summer last year. After tapping the solenoid/relay with a screw driver it seemed to solve the problem but I thought I should replace the solenoid/relay before it goes completely. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 3:07pm
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The solenoid is only used to engage the starter, so it has nothing to do with the boat failing to shut off with the key. The common denominator in both scenarios is the ignition switch. Id probably replace that first (theyre cheap). ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 4:12pm
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Craig, Tim is correct and I agree that it sure sounds like the key switch itself since yes, it's the "common denominator. Although nether the switch or the relay are expensive items, I always suggest testing first before just throwing parts and money at the problem. A volt Ohm meter is so cheap that everyone should have one. It just came up in another thead that HF had a basic one for $5!! The meters come with basic instructions plus we are always around to help out. BTW, both my 1954 and 1964 still have the original relays in them.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 4:16pm
| I do have a volt meter. Whats the best way to check both the key switch and the relay? Like mentioned above it seemed like the relay was "sticking" open? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 4:26pm
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The primary purpose of the relay is to provide high amp switching of power to the starter. It should be open when you aren't cranking the engine. Here's a wiring diagram courtesy of Tim that may help:  You should get the volts off the "S" and "I" terminals when cranking. The "I" should only be on when the key is in the run position. You should get nothing when it's in the off position. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-21-2012 at 4:42pm
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A better test of the ignition switch would be to test it disconnected. Check continuity between the terminals. Batt, Ign and Start should all be continuous when the key is in the "start" position. Batt and Ign should be continuous in the "run/on" position. Nothing should be continuous in the "off" position. If not all of those check out appropriately, replace the switch. ------------- |