Holley 4160 float settings
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2737
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 6:23am
Topic: Holley 4160 float settings
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Subject: Holley 4160 float settings
Date Posted: November-20-2005 at 6:01am
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I ordered and received a marine Holley rebuild kit for my 4160 carburetor (list # 50419-1) from Summit. The kit came with all the correct gaskets, needles and seats, seals, etc,... My fuel bowls are the "non-adjustable" float type so the fuel bowls must be off of the carburetor to adjust the float level. On the chart of adjustment settings (that came with the kit) under my list number (50419-1) there is no adjustment setting listed,... it is blank. Does anyone know the proper setting for this carb (primary and secondary). Carburetor is on a 1988 Indmar 351W model 240/250. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Replies:
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: November-21-2005 at 7:36am
| I am not a carburetor expert. But, generally speaking the baseline setting is floats level with the bowl. However, given the angle of the engine in the boat, you may need to set the front (primary) float for more fuel the secondary (rear) for less fuel. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: November-21-2005 at 10:09am
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Hold the bowl upside down and see if the float is hanging horizontal(that is the top of the float is parallel with the inside top of the bowl). That's a good starting point. Some that are none adjustable you have to bend the metal. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: AWhite70
Date Posted: November-21-2005 at 11:52am
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My carb is also the non-adjustable type. When I rebuilt it I set the floats as listed above and it's been working great for 2 seasons.
Turn the bowls upside down and bend the metal tab until the top of the float sits parallel with the top of the bowl (top now being on the bottom since it's upside down) ------------- AWhite70 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=562&sort=revyear&pagenum=5&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - '79 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: abolton
Date Posted: May-31-2006 at 8:23pm
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So let me get this right if you want the primary float for more fuel the float should be less or more than parallel with the inside top of bowl???
I just put a rebuilt carb on and no matter what I do to the idle screws I can't get the idle down under 1200 rpm without stalling. I figure it must be to much gas getting in so the float needs to be adjusted HOW? up/down?? Do I try one float at a time or go for both? ------------- ABE |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-01-2006 at 5:08pm
Loosen the jam nut, turn screw clockwise to lower the float, counter-clockwise to raise the float.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-01-2006 at 5:12pm
This is a better picture. It shows holding the bowl upside down in step 1.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-01-2006 at 6:01pm
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why are you still messing around trying to adjust the float for a high idle problem the float has no effect on the idle or rpm. Do you enjoy chasing your tail or what, disconnect the f'n throtle cable and 20 bucks says the high idle goes away because the cable isn't adjusted correctly. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-01-2006 at 6:02pm
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And Not all Holley carb floats are adjusted that way, some are internal and have to be bent. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: abolton
Date Posted: June-01-2006 at 7:47pm
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OK 79sn you are right I found that the PVC valve connection was the problem and now idle is working. Thank God I didn't mess with the internal float adj. I got out on the water and still have the same hesitation problem I had B4 I had the carb rebuilt. I will check the timing and make sure thats right, and go from there. ------------- ABE |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-02-2006 at 5:41am
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Use a 7/16 drill under the float and adjust. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: abolton
Date Posted: June-09-2006 at 11:32pm
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My carb guy found the carb vac leak, he left a unplugged heat riser tube connection at the choke spring, I pick it up and back on Sat morn. I hope it works this time. ------------- ABE |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-10-2006 at 12:43pm
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Use a 7/16 drill bit and all will be fine. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-19-2006 at 7:20pm
| How can you tell if the float is correctly inline? I changed out my power valve teh other weekend and have not had a change to test it yet, but I think I recall, I unscrewed the adjustment bowl slightly and may have not put it back exactly where it was. Is there a way to adjust this with the boat running? |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-19-2006 at 7:27pm
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You should have a sight hole on the side, a large brass screw. You want to adjust the float so that the gas is even with or just below the bottom of the sight hole. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-19-2006 at 7:39pm
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So after I get it started, run it for a minute or to get gas in the bowl, stop the engine, look through the hole to see the gas is level with the site hole correct?
Thanks! boat must be level also I take it... (on the trailer right now |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-19-2006 at 8:18pm
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There is no adjustment for a power vale, you should have a 6.5 . At 6.5 vacuum the power vslve opens under a load., if you want to see put a vacuum on and run the boat watch when it opens.
We are speakin g of a stock engione. As I metioned bedfore put a 7/16 drill bit on r the case float and adjust the float. This can change if you change props, bigger will bring the power valve to a early open., etc ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-19-2006 at 10:13pm
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You should be able to check the level through the sight hole while it is running. If you rock the boat and a little runs out, that's a good level. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-20-2006 at 6:10am
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True, however not all holly's have sight holes ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: June-20-2006 at 10:28am
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abolton, there was a heat riser tube on your carb? What's that about? I had one of those on a '62 Oldsmobile. (That was a great car.) ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-21-2006 at 9:21pm
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I am not sure what I did... I pulled off my bowl, replaced my power valve, and not the when I started it up, it squirted out the metal fuel rod that goes to the secondary bowl the fuel line tube? Maybe my orings are shot also???
|
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-21-2006 at 10:02pm
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So... yes.. the ring is shot... found the part number at summit... but my question... with this 4160... I thought it only had one power valve. Looking at the exploded view at Holley, the Secondary bowl has a valve.... should I be replacing this also?>??? I just replaced the primary.... there is where I had backfire, I presume because i was out of the hole backfire... but my top end was fine.
I'm thinking ineed to pull the secondary bowl off to clean it out in case this left overr rubber gasket is in it... thoughts?? comments? fun with carbs?? Also.. I got a new powervalve from SkiDim and it was the 2.5.... I keep seeing 6.5... what should it be? 1992 PCM 351 ProTec thanks! |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 6:35am
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6.5 is the right one. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 10:26am
maybe this can help
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 11:58am
So then why would SkiDim sell me a 2.5 then? |
SS-201 wrote:Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 12:03pm
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that's what they have in stock and the old kits where that way as well. The kit I got from REX Marine had the 6.5 power valve in it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 12:06pm
| So whats my loss if I put a 2.5 in?? anything at all? I just install the primary 2.5 and now I have a secondary coming from summit just in case. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-22-2006 at 12:22pm
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you'll lose a little power because the power valve won't kick in as soon. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tommer12
Date Posted: June-23-2006 at 10:52pm
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Tim, do you have a picture of the secondary??? I thought there was a power valve in the secondary, but not... the exploded view at holley says that there is, or is that just a different view?
Anyways.. I took off the secondary fuel bowl to clean it out because of the fuel tube o ring seal fell in there. The performance shop gave me the wrong gasket.. so now I have to wait until tomorrow. crossing my fingers that all this work will fix the problem.. thanks |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: June-24-2006 at 6:03am
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You will lose more than power, if you put a blank one in up the jet sizes by at least 10 sizes. However the best bet is to use a 6.5 valve. 2.5 is for racing or none at all, engines at wide open top only produce 2,3 vacuum. ------------- SS 201 |