Shaft Slipped from Coupling!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27531
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 6:35pm
Topic: Shaft Slipped from Coupling!
Posted By: MattB
Subject: Shaft Slipped from Coupling!
Date Posted: August-20-2012 at 12:32pm
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Hey guys, looking for some help... Just before the end of the day yesterday I was coming into dock put the boat into reverse and there was a clunk and then no power in either forward or reverse. After some help getting the boat out of the water and onto its trailer and closer inspection the shaft appears to have slipped out of the coupling by about an inch although not all the way out, luckily the collar has stopped it from coming all the way out of the back and doing any damage, I don't think I hit anything solid so I don't believe there is any damage We do have serious amount of weed in the lake at the moment though. I have not stripped everything down yet to see what has failed causing the issue but looking for any thoughts or ideas. I'm not sure if the key is still in the shaft/coupling or if this has broken to cause the issue or even if its in the bilge but once I strip it down later I should have a better idea of whats going on. Any advise please on things to check or what to look for. No pictures yet but I will know more tomorrow. Anyone know any good places for some paddles?  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-20-2012 at 1:12pm
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This has happened at least once before. I remembered this thread from last year: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23794&title=ouch" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23794&title=ouch There's some good info in the thread. It sounds like going with the ARE double taper shaft is the answer. |
Posted By: Foot_Fungus
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 2:59am
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Let us know what you find. Only way for the shaft to come out of a correctly installed(or never messed with) coupler is for the coupler to crack, you hit something like a rock(I'm still not sure that would of done it), or a severe alignment issue(my money is on this one). But you damn for sure should of noticed the vibrations or had a trashed prop. Now if it was installed incorrectly we have 2 likely options: 1.Some idiot sanded it down to slide in instead of doing it correctly with heat(only way to do an interference fit) and hoped the key and locking screws would hold it inplace. In that case it probably just vibrated/wore itself free. 2. Otherwise I'd say the key wasn't installed at all or fell out at some point and the shaft over time spun itself loose. And even that would be a long shot in my book if the intereference fit was done correctly. Quickest(timewise) but most expensive solution is go the ARE route. Say about $580ish and 2-4hrs. I did a big thread on option B which is very time consuming but only runs you about $85(new coupler). But I'd be hesitant depending on how bad the end of that shaft looks. If it spun a great deal you may have issues with the fit even in a new coupler. In short Option A requires a basic set of tools and moderate automotive skills. While its the most expensive it guarantees you a good fit and that nothing is bent/worn/damaged while also being easy to install and remove whenever the mood suites you. Option B is MUCH cheaper but requires an oven, a very good oven mit, and a pair of balls. As you'll be handling/adjusting/pushing a 500 degree 3lb chuck of metal that will instantly burn through carpet, skin, and most anything else it gets dropped on(not to mention you have about 20-30 from the oven to getting it in position before it shrinks again). If the end of the shaft is damaged at all you're playing with fire in my book, as I doubt you'd get a solid fit. |
Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 6:39am
 So eloquently put!! Loved to read that... And so very true. ------------- - Gun control means: using BOTH hands! - Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
Foot_Fungus wrote:Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 7:19am
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I am viewing this issue as a bit of first time owner lack of knowledge and probably something I should have found before the failure... If I had done an alignment I would have found the issue pretty quickly, but after replacing the original prop that had a few small dings and defiantly nothing to make me worry that there was any serious damage the vibrations stopped and the prop was easy to turn with a couple of fingers so I assumed the alignment was ok and there were no issues, although it was still on my list of jobs. The Coupling is completely shot and junk, it actually slides up and down the shaft and even has some sideways movement, I am pretty sure it was hanging on with the set screws alone, the key was probably half the length that it should be so this was almost useless. Alignment was off a little and more than it should have been but I don't know if it was responsible for the wiggle in the coupling.  Typically I had just received some new shaft packing and was going to check the alignment and repack the shaft at the same time in a week or two's time  I am now looking to source the relevant parts to get back on the water as soon as possible... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 7:36am
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split type coupling does wonders, easily serviced also ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 7:36am
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I haven't actually pulled the shaft from the boat yet to check the length although it is stamped with 54 does this sound about right? The ARE route seems the best route to me rather than risking life and limb with a molten hot coupling onto a shaft that is probably less than perfect. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 7:49am
Not seen anything about these...but a little search yesterday did show up some split couplings. http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/split-clamp-on-half-couplings-4-inch/clamp-on-spilt-half-coupling-for-propeller-shaft-808416" rel="nofollow - http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/split-clamp-on-half-couplings-4-inch/clamp-on-spilt-half-coupling-for-propeller-shaft-808416 Are these the type you are referring to? would they work on a SN? sure is a cheaper/quicker option that replacing everything! Spoken to my Local Nautique dealer this morning and they don't carry anything in stock but are speaking to the US later this afternoon when you guys wake up for the day  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 10:57am
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If you use the clamp on, have a keyway broached into it. A machine shop should be able to do that. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 1:23pm
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Looks like SkiDim could be getting and order from me soon... Could somebody sanity check the items for me and let me know if there is anything else I should order `incase` ? 1 x A.R.E. SHAFT SYSTEM 1" X 4" COUPLER (Item: WS-2000 length 54" to confirm) 2 x Cotter pins (Item: COTTER16X15 - Spare are always good) 1 x SYSTEM SOCKET 1.06 (Item: SYSSOCKET106) 1 x BUSHING'S 1" I.D. x 1-1\4 " O.D. (Item: SB10X12 - may as well have it to replace it if I need) 2 x KEY STRAIGHT BRASS (Item: KEYBR25X2 - spare for prop) Anything I may have missed ? Gonna tow the boat home tonight to make things easier (take the boat to the tools so I don't forget things) and save the 20min travel time. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-21-2012 at 2:29pm
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Brass castle nut? Gore tex rope packing Shaft seal hose. All these item i'd rerplace them now if the actuals are of unknown age ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 7:18am
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Good call on the Shaft Seal hose and the Castle nut, I already have some packing rope. Added: 1 x HOSE 1-1/2" X 6" SHAFT LOG (Item: MPI200-1120) 1 x PROP NUT SLOTTED BRASS (Item: NUTSLBR3410) I managed to get the boat back last night between the thunder storms and managed to get a short while to fight with the prop and prop remover before the light disappeared and I had to admit defeat for the evening flippin thing is stuck on there pretty well, patience and persistence will win in the end though SkiDim can deliver the items in approx 10 working days so I am going to be off the water for a little while longer, gives me a chance to get everything stripped and ready. I am still waiting to hear from my local dealer but I don't think they can get anything sorted anytime sooner as they have no stock in the UK but I will see what they come up with today. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 7:50am
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strut bearing? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 7:57am
Is that not these.... BUSHING'S 1" I.D. x 1-1\4 " O.D. (Item: SB10X12) ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 8:16am
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I don't have access to a propane or oxy acetylene torch but do you think a little gas canister blow torch will be able to deliver enough heat to make the prop removal easier ? I do have an acme puller which I am using and working around a blade at a time to try and ease it off but it seems pretty stubborn and its probably a problem I will hit again so purchasing a little torch could save me a few hours now and in the future. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 8:50am
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Matt, You could try putting the puller on and load it up a bit....then pour boiling water just over the prop... save buying a torch but that will work too just don’t heat in one spot or over heat the prop must stay the same colour under heat. Boiling water and cups of tea while you work...... ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 10:14am
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I don't think my prop had ever been off my 89 SN before I took it off to re-prop from original OJ to Acme. I used a propane torch to heat (they are cheap, just a small bottle of camp propane and the torch; you should be able to get the two together for less than $20. It just a few minutes; with tension on the puller and a clang, it came free. Now that they have been off, I can get them off with just the puller, no torch. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 11:01am
| The one thing I read about using the touch, is to put a wet towel over the strut, so that you don't accidentally fry/melt the bushing. |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-22-2012 at 11:15am
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Nice tips this is why I keep coming back here as you guys keep offering the advice. I will probably try the boiling water first as there is less chance of me loosing my eyebrows but will get a blowtorch for my growing collection of tools/parts. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 6:53am
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Tried with the boiling water trick and it still would not budge but a few minutes with the blowtorch and a couple of bangs on the back of the puller and the prop slipped straight off. The boat is now all stripped down and ready for the replacement parts, 51" ARE shaft on order Final parts list: A.R.E. SHAFT SYSTEM 1" X 4" COUPLER 51" length COTTER PIN SYSTEM SOCKET 1.06 BUSHING'S 1" I.D. x 1-1\4 " O.D. KEY STRAIGHT BRASS HOSE 1-1/2" X 6" SHAFT LOG PROP NUT SLOTTED BRASS BOLT SET SHAFT COUPLING already have Shaft Packaging which is why its not on the list. Cheers for you help and advice guys. I will be back if I have any issues with the installation...about 10days time.... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 10:29am
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Glad you got the prop off. It may have been said above, but in addition to alignment, take note of proper lapping as well. Speaking of which, I would assume the both ends of the taper need to be properly lapped? I will be replacing mine soon, after a transmission rebuild and having the prop re-worked, so I am interested in how it goes. I did not take note of your locations when I mentioned the cost of the propane torch in dollars; I have a friend who lives in Ashover, Derbyshire. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 11:13am
It sure wouldn't hurt to lap the trans end but, unlike the prop and shaft coming from different manufacturers, I would say ARE got the trans end damn close. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 12:02pm
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I'm only doing the job once so want to get it done right and will be lapping Small world, Ashover is only 25miles from Nottingham ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 12:03pm
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Small chance I know, but do you know Jason Williams (wife Samantha)? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7 |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 1:28pm
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LOL, the UK is a small place but not that small Say Hi to them and offer my details if they want to take up wakeboarding always looking for more crew.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: dwouncmd
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 2:11pm
I met him sailing in the British Virgin Islands, he was the guest of one of my best friends on our boat. He is a boat/snowski kind of guy who is in business just a few miles away; I thought I would try. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6535&sort=&pagenum=2" rel="nofollow - 89 SN <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6567&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow">7 |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 2:17pm
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Matt what strut bushing did you went for? the 2 piece ones? figure you want to allign the slot pattern between the front and back pieces. I ordered a 1 piece 4" from go 2 marine and its works just fine. it´s even cheaper than the ones skidim offers... http://www.go2marine.com/product/83313F/rubber-sleeve-stern-bearings-naval-brass.html" rel="nofollow - bearing strut on go 2 marine ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 2:53pm
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Yup 2 piece, I am going to use a threaded bar to install them and will make sure I line up the pattern. Cheers Got it from SkiDim as I am doing the main order from them and don't want even more postage $75 postage is enough!!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: September-10-2012 at 7:36am
All installed and ready for the water again. (I should have cleaned up and wiped down before I took the picture) The A.R.E sure is nice and easy to install, the alignment was a real pain but after a bit of work (2 hours sat there if I am honest) and a little heat onto one of the engine mounts everything came together and I was down to 1 thou. New cutlass bearing installed along with new shaft packing. My shaft packaging was well overdue replacement, this was the sorry state of what came out...4 new rings went back in  I just need to get it onto the water and check/adjust the packing. Big thanks to all you guys for your help and assistance and the info you have put out on the site, making the entire job pretty easy. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: September-10-2012 at 3:51pm
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Nice job and good thread Matt. I am replacing my strut bushing this winter and am going to replace everything with the a.r.e. Setup as well on our 96' ski. Im assuming the new setup is pretty simple to install. Anything I should be aware of that gave you any issues? ------------- levin |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: September-11-2012 at 7:22am
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No issues at all with the setup, the machining of the A.R.E shaft is very good and the coupling and prop both go onto the tapers very easy, there was very little work lapping either end. The alignment is time consuming. Don't drop your rudder when you remove it, I caught mine with a large bucket and a couple of dust sheets. You can see in my picture of the new shaft install that I have also installed the Safety Collar from the old shaft(just above the shaft packing) its not supplied with the ARE and probably isn't needed but I installed it as a safety measure in the event of anything happening. I used the threaded bolt method to install the new cutlass bearings which made it very easy and also bought enough threaded bolt so that I could use this to pull the shaft the last couple of inches to the transmission flange once the bolt was installed onto the inside of the coupling. A couple of extra pics showing the cutlass removal and install, the old bearing comes out easy enough with some gentle work and careful cutting.  The new install is very very simple, just remember to align the new ones as they go in.  If I can do this job then anyone can do it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: September-11-2012 at 9:33am
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Good to know Matt, nice pics of the process. I will be refering back to this thread when I begin the project. Middle of September, so we have a few weeks left of the season to get in some more skiing. ------------- levin |