tools for tranny rebuild?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2759
Printed Date: November-23-2024 at 7:57am
Topic: tools for tranny rebuild?
Posted By: Martinique87
Subject: tools for tranny rebuild?
Date Posted: November-29-2005 at 5:59pm
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These forums are great. i've already learned a ton from reading them.
I just bought an Martinique and noticed the transmission fluid had water in it so I kept changing it until it looked right. Took it for a spin and the velvet drive worked fine. Thought I dodged the bullet. However, 30 minutes into the first time my family is in the boat the transmission was slipping at any RPM over1500. I've heard that water is particulary bad on clutches...hence the slipping. In many posting folks have said that a do-it-yourself transmission rebuild is realistic. I've look at the manual you provide and am seriously considering rebuilding it myself. Here is my question, what tools or machineshop services are needed? Several steps mention using a press (e.g., installing the ring gear over the forward clutch cylinder), others imply a micrometer may be need, and a torque wrench is required as well. Is this correct? Is the list complete? |
Replies:
Posted By: Bob's2001
Date Posted: November-30-2005 at 11:44am
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It is very realistic if you have some mechanical experience and inclination. I just finished a rebuild on my Velvet Drive for about $430 in parts and as I didn't pull the drive gear off the shaft I didn't need a press at all. You should have a torque wrench, a mic would be handy but you don't have to spend a lot of money. I did mine in the garage. Just make sure you get and keep every thing clean. It was my first time inside a trans but with the manual on this site (in the reference section) it was not a problem. You can do it! ------------- Bob Ed 83 2001 |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: November-30-2005 at 2:18pm
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Mine's on the bench now, a good set of snap-ring pliers seems prudent.
I bought a plastic mortar-mixing tub to do the initial disassembly in, to contain the mess. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: November-30-2005 at 7:50pm
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You might try changing the fluid one more time. There may have been some watery fluid left in the case that didn't get mixed up until it was run. Maybe? I've had water in the fluid a couple of times and I just changed the fluid twice, took it for a spin and changed it a third time. Worth a shot.
I did however have to replace the reverse clutch plates and springs not too long ago due to some nylon rope wrapped around the prop. It was pretty easy. The hardest part was removing thr Velvet Drive from the motor. I didn't get into the forward plates -- it did look a little more complicated. So can't really comment on how hard or what tools are need for that part. I do recommend a torque wrench. They are kinda expensive but worth it id you do much tinkering with your boat. I've twisted off too many bolts because I've been too lazy to grab the torque wrench. The tub is a great idea. There's a lot of fluid in there, even when you think you've got it all out. Other than that, wrenches, sockets and pliers is all I can remember using. Snap ring pliers would make things easier. Good luck. |
Posted By: Martinique87
Date Posted: November-30-2005 at 8:10pm
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Thanks guys! I really appreciate it.
Just want to check on one thing. Is it possible to change the clutch plates without pulling the drive gear off the shaft? Tim |
Posted By: Bob's2001
Date Posted: December-01-2005 at 3:00pm
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Yes ------------- Bob Ed 83 2001 |
Posted By: Martinique87
Date Posted: January-08-2006 at 5:35pm
| I'm just now geting tot he transmission rebuild and so far so good. Looks like most of my problem is in the forward piston. The piston sealing ring was toast and there was some rust in the cylender. The only snag i've run into is getting the output shaft nut removed to get the pinion gears out. I must be missing something simple, but how do I keep the coupling flange stationary so that I can apply the force necessary to break the nut free? Since there is such tight clearences I don't want to mar it. Its not left handed is it? |
Posted By: Bob's2001
Date Posted: January-08-2006 at 9:57pm
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I used an air impact wrench to get mine loose. It was pretty tough, but after soaking for a while in penetrating oil and keeping at it, it broke loose. You could try holding the coupling with a big pipe wrench.
This link has some pics http://photobucket.com/albums/d199/TexasBob/ ------------- Bob Ed 83 2001 |
Posted By: Martinique87
Date Posted: January-09-2006 at 6:17pm
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Thanks Bob, Looks like I'll need something big to hold he coupling in place. Vise, pipe wrench etc. Glad to know its not left handed...just stuborn.
Tim |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: January-11-2006 at 7:39am
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I suppose one could bolt something to it with a lot of mass, like a small trailer wheel or weightlifting plate. The mass would permit the impact wrench to work. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Bob's2001
Date Posted: January-11-2006 at 3:47pm
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Torque on that nut is 100 to 200 lb/ft. If it's at the top of the range that's gonna be a real booger to get loose. ------------- Bob Ed 83 2001 |
Posted By: Martinique87
Date Posted: January-22-2006 at 5:33pm
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I wanted to follow up and thank everyone for thier help. My 71C is now rebuilt and working perfectly. Never would have considered trying to rebuild it myself without the forum here. For any other rookies like me who might be considering it them sevlevs here a few things that I learned along the way.
To get the transmission out...losen the nuts on the vertical "bols" on the engine and transmission motor mounts (2-3 turns) . Tap the "bolt" with a hammer, it will drop slighty freeing the morot mounts to better pivot. Remove the bolts attaching the transmission mount to the stringer (there were 2 per mount on mine) Remove the 4 bolts connecting the coulpings Put a bottlejack on the stringerand under the exhaust manifold...use it to raise the engine enough so that the output coupling clears the drive shaft coupling. You can now remove the 4 nuts and 2 bolts which hold thetransmission to the engine. Because the 4 nuts are attached to studs, you don't have to worry about the transmission falling as you remove the nuts. Just slide the transmission out, using the mounts as handles. Aother thing that I think is worh while pointing out is that of the two transmissions manuals available on this site, one of them has disassembly instructions. I was surprised to find I needed them! I had water in the transmission and lots of rust to sand down. My input shaft was pitted and I didnt know if it could be reused. I lereaned that a "seppdy sleve" is available to tap ove the pitted area and provide a smooth surface for the front seal. It was $80, but that was a lot better than buying a whole new shaft. Thanks again guys. i'm sure I'll be asking you adivse on other topics soon. Tim |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-22-2006 at 6:58pm
Martinique87, great job, well done!! Its rewarding!! By the way, I am very impressed to see you used a "speedy sleeve". They are $$, but well worth it. We use quite a few and the best part is they are stainless. What we have found is rust migrates up the shaft of whatever and tears the seal apart. This is especially true on equipment that doesnt get used much or sits for a while, or has been grooved out. Again great job!!  ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |