WOT only 1100rpm, no power
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27621
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 9:09pm
Topic: WOT only 1100rpm, no power
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Subject: WOT only 1100rpm, no power
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 4:27am
| Wow, well that didnt take long for me to be back on here with another problem that has me absokutly stumped...after finally getting the boat dialed in with new coil, resistor, cap, and rotor things seemed great, was starting like a charm, idleing wonderful and staying running through idleing as long as i would leave it idleing for. My speedos dont work but it seeemed to speed right up like it did when i bought it and was around 3700rpm at WOT. I know some will say this is slow for my sn2001 with 351 but its got a replacement prop w th a slightly bigger pitch and until today had the wrong plugs in it. I live in lake tahoe so dock space is extremely expensive so i found someone trustworthy that was willing to let me dock at their house in exchange for them being able to take out the boat when i was not useing it. While going through all my last problems they had a "marine mechanic" friend come look at it while i wasnt there. After all my troubles and finally getting it going good he showed up the day after i got it back to normal while i was at work and started fiddleing with it. Of course this *************** was a mastercrap owner and tried changeing ly firing order to what his mastercrap was even tho i had just got mine to what it should be and what was printed on the engine tag. He also messed with the carb and hooked up some "pump" on the throttle side of the carb towards the front of the boat, a black plastic piece that was previously below the metal "pump" lever. He also apparently played around with the timing. But long story short he got frustratdd with the firing order and just up and left. When i arrived at the boat the firing order had been changed and i instantly pulled up the picture that bri had sent me and put it back to how it should be and it fired right up. I than went to take it out and see if anything seemed different. The engine was shakeing quite a bit again which i had previously fixed and in idle seemed to throw out quite a bigger wake while i was idleing out of the channel into the lake, the volt meter was also bouncing around instead of staying steady as i had also had corrected before he came and messed it all up. I thN got out into the lake and went to open it up and nothing happened, i brought the trottle back and went to do it again and same thing, nothing, only the throttle went to far forward and got stuck in the 6oclock position almost completely upside down. I shut the boat down and pulled the cover up only to notice that he had left my throttle cable disconnected. I reconnected it and still the throttle lever was stuck. So i disconncected it again. The throttle wld continue going backwards counter clockwise until it was almost back in the straight up normal position. I finally was able to force it back clockwise into a few different spots at a time till it was back into its nornal upright position so i cld pull the safety plug out and start the boat. I reconnected the throttle to the carb shut the cover and went to take off and the boat would hardly go, i put it full throttle and it would not go faster than 1100rpm. I took it home and cLled the guy who fiddled with it and all he had to say was that i should get the right plugs ajd it woll run better. This morning i got 8 autolite 24's and went to the boat and put them in, got out to the lake and same thing, will not go faster than 1100rpm.....im stumped and have noooo idea what hppened or why the boat is doing this. as you have herd before, someone pleaseeeeeee help! |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 9:47am
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Since you had the issue with the throttle/cable, check to see if the helm control is actually opening the carb linkage all the way. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 10:24am
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I'd say you have grounds for a lawsuit against that mechanic. When you changed the plug wires order, you checked them at both cap & plug ends, right? Please post pictures, maybe we can help. esp the 'black pc'! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 2:32pm
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Assuming you have a Holley carb it sounds like that black plastic piece is the cam for operating the accelerator pump. Accelerator pump cams come in various sizes and are color coded and number coded by Holley. The cams have different shaped ramps that the arm from the accelerator pump rides on. By changing the size and shape of the arc on the cam, the pump shot can be tailored to start early or later as you go from off idle to full throttle. They come in 9 different colors, the black one is the middle of the road cam up to about 20% throttle opening and then it becomes one of the smaller cams, yellow is the quickest with the most volume per degree of throttle roataion, and the pink one is the slowest with the least volume pumped. Having the wrong one may produce a bog or hesitation on acceleration but whouldn't affect your WOT engine speed. Check to make sure your throttle cable is opening the throttle blades completely, rotating the Morse controller too far may have screwed up the internal levers inside it, and it no longer moves the cable enough to open the throttle. |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 3:57pm
| I was assuming its not the morse cable because when i got the throttle arm stuck down the cable was not connected to the carb, but maybe im wrong and messed up the cable at the throttle arm end. I also tried to accelerate it manually by hand with the cable unhooked by pressing down the accelerator on the carb and still it would only go 1100rpm. How do i check the cable? At this point im about to give up and get rid of the boat and thats the last thing i want to do. |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 5:50pm
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With the engine off, air intake silencer off and the throttle cable unhooked, rotate the throttle linkage rearward (clockwise looking at it from the port side) as far as it will go. don't force it just use enough pressure to move it against the return springs, it should move at least about 2". Note how far it moves, Look down the throat of the carb, and see if the butterfly valves in the primary bores are vertical, if they are not then something is blocking the linkage on the carb. Now with the throttle cable still disconnected, move the lever forward to the position full throttle used to be and check that the inner operating wire moved approximately the same distance that you moved the carb linkage to get the butterfly valve to their near vertical position. If everything checks out, return the throttle to the neutral position, reconnect the throttle linkage to the carb, and the bracket to the outer cable (the one that holds the cable into position so it can't move forward or back)if you took it off, check that it is tight if you didn't take it off (maybe the mech loosened it while he was ***************g with your engine and the whole cable is moving). Put the silencer back on and give it another try. Shoot a picture of the throttle side of the carb showing the accelerator pump, and throttle arm area so we can see what's going on. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: August-27-2012 at 6:16pm
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Braedon don't give up on the boat, this problem will likely be easy to solve and any number of guys here can help you with it. I know I'm the 3rd person to say it, but if you can get some pictures it would be a big help. What Mark said above will prove out the throttle operation. When it maxed out at 1100 rpm was it running smoothly? Did it sputter at all as you advanced the throttle? It sounded to me like the bad mechanic changed a number of things, so we've got to step through them one by one. If you've got the firing order correct, and new plugs, and spark to all plugs, then you'll have to see if he moved timing way out or not, since you start and run you can get base timing set correctly again. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-28-2012 at 1:29am
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Is the engine running smoothly up to the 1100? Like David says, make sure the wires are in the correct firing order and not crossed. When you ran the carb linkage by hand, how far was the travel? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 12:33am
| Ok, so today i had a trusted mechanic come down and take a look at everything. He fixed timing and tuned carb and said my engine runs amazing and is as strong as can be. When inspecting the transmisson, he found pink foamy sludge on the dipstick and narrowed it down to water that got into the tranny from the time that the ppl messed up my prop amd strut and the boat took on water. He says he is almost positive that there is water in the torque converter that isnt allowing the boat to go over 1100-1300 rpm. Does this make sense to anyone. We pumped all the fluid out of the tranny and it defintly had water in it, but no metal pieces. he says what we need to do is to disconnect the transmission from the bell housing and drain the both of them...any imput??? The engine is minty and runs like a top, this is the only thing he can think that is not letting it reach high speed. |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 12:54am
| Ok im an idiot, i just read a threat which confirmed that these boats do not have torque converters...could it still he water somewhere up in the bell housing? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 1:15am
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No,the cause of your issues is not because of water in the trans. But if you don't take care of the cause you will have more serious troubles.Was water left in the boat perhaps covering the trans? If not it is most likely the trans cooler leaking.You have to flush out the trans about 3 times to clear the water out,if the oil is still pink like a milk shake after that suspect the cooler. As to your mechanic,I'm sure he means well but he does not know inboards. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 1:39am
| So than what is the cause of my issue??? |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 4:04am
| Today i learned through the mechanic that my ignition is not a points ignition as i thought it was when replaceing the coil, dizzy and rotor. the new coil i got, an msd blaster 8222 said that it required an external resistor for use on points style ignitions which i thought i had, so when i installed the coil i also installed the recomended resistor. I now learned today that it isnt a points style ignition and i have it resisted, cld i not be getting enough spark under load because of this and this be the problem??. |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: August-31-2012 at 1:51pm
| If thats true, you did replace the distributor by the above statement and should know if it has points or not, then just connect a bypass wire from one terminal to the other on the resistor to cut it out of the system temporarily. If it works better and the manufacturer says its OK, take the resistor out permanently. |
Posted By: 71CCMartinique
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 7:34pm
You say that the engine won't rev. Is this only when engaged from the helm, while in gear or when manually operating the linkage? It could idle good and still run like crap at mid throttle. If you think it is carb related, download a sheet from Holley or whoever the carb manufacuter is. 
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nautiquelover1988 wrote:Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 7:49pm
| It wont reach its full potential speed whether using the trottle or manually operating the linkage. It revs all the way up and sounds like a champ when in nuetral but when under load the boat does not reach its potential full speed, it still sounds great when under load and full throttle but it jist wont go as fast as it should. If i just connect the purple and red wire from the resistor together and leave them off the resistor completly will i short something out? I want to try running it without the resistor but this is the best way i can think to do so. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 9:03pm
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No, it won't short out as long as they are insulated from ground. Check you coil after 5 minutes to see if it is overheating. You were questioning if the transmission could be binding - does the RPM drop more than 50 RPM when you put it in gear? Can you spin the prop by hand? You also mentioned putting on a slightly higher pitched prop. What prop did you put on? It wants a 13 inch pitch, no more. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 9:12pm
| The new prop is a 13x14 but even after putting that on it went as fast as it should until recently. The rpm does drop when its put into gear as well. Im almost positive it is a electrical issue because the voltage meter does not stay constant in a spot on the meter like it used to, it bounces very rapidly like its shakeing but doesnt shake far. Before the problem it would stay still in one spot. Im wondering weather a poor battery/connection would maoe it perform poorly under load as well. I opened the battery case today to find some water under the battery, about an inch or less and both battery connections completly rusted and corroded. Even though the boat starts like a champ and does fine when not under load would this have any effect on it when it is under load? |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 9:14pm
| And yes, i can spin the prop hy hand. and no the coil is not overheating anymore. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-01-2012 at 9:24pm
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Well, I would eliminate as many possible causes as possible. It is always a good thing to keep electrical connections healthy. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-05-2012 at 1:16am
| Ok so i took the boat out on the lake again today, still cant get it to go very fast. Engine sounds great, but it just wont go as fast as it should. I took the flame arrestor off of the carb and had my fiance drive with the boat at WOT while i was looking down the carb and the secondaries are not opening. Could this be my problem, and if so, what are the likely causes for them not opening. Can i try to stick a screw driver down and manually open the secondaries while someone is driving the boat with the trottle wide open and see of it makes a difference? Any help is appreciated. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-05-2012 at 2:12am
Braedon go out with the future Mrs and run it again wot. On the drivers side of the carb there is a sort of round cover,the same color as the carb, with 4 screws on the top with a rod out of the bottom.Do not confuse it with the choke that has a black plastic cover with 2 wires going to it. Pull that rod up when your going wide open and see if you then go faster. When you do this you are manually opening the secondaries that are normally opened by vaccum on a diaphram under that round cover. Then report back. If this works you need a rebuild of the carb or if you don't feel you can do that,a new carb. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-05-2012 at 2:36am
| Gary, thank you soo much, i will head over to the boat in thr morning to try that out. do i need to remove those 4 screws to get to the rod or will i be able to manually move it as is? Thanks so much i reallly appreciate the help and pictures! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-05-2012 at 2:59am
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You will not have to remove anything.Once you look at it,you'll be able to see the rod and where it connects real easy. You will not be able to move it sitting there you'll have to be going,it's just the way the linkage is hooked up. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-06-2012 at 4:50am
| I went to the boat today and took her out to try manually operating the secondaries. When i would gently open them manually it gave the boat more power, however when i continued to open them all the way the boat would begin to bogg down and almost sound as if it were going to die out until i let up on them again. Any idea about this? Also, since the begining of these troubles when the people who used the boat broke the prop and strut and the boat took on a little bit of water the starter has sounded as if it were going bad... Well today after i manually opened the secondaries up i turned the boat off out in the lake to take a look inside the are that sits about the rod used to operate the secondaries to inspect what it looked like inside. After putting it back on and going to start it back up the im pretty sure the starter finally went bad on me. It would just make a loud whine'ing noise when trying to start it and none of the belts would even move. Does this sound like the starter to you? If so, i read a few posts where people replaced their starters with one found on amizon.com when searching ford 351 marine starter that is only 60$...does this sound rite to you? |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: September-06-2012 at 10:52pm
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remember that this is a reverse rotating engine, so you need to have a RR starter. check in with the My Nautique parts, or Skidim, for the correct part. you may be able to have yoru current one rebuilt, just make sure you tell the shop that it is a RR starter. TRBenj has a place that sells them cheap, but I don't recall the name of it. do a search for starters on CCF on google, I bet you will come up with several threads. |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: September-06-2012 at 10:54pm
| starter thread about 5 down from yours shows this link courtesy of TRBenj... %20" rel="nofollow - http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?pnumber=AR70201&mfg=Arco%20Auto%20%26%20Marine&mcat1=2&mcat2=7&mcat3=0&category=Pleasurecraft%20Marine&mfgcategory=Inboard%20Starters&mfgno=70201&desc=Ford%20Small%20Block%20Inboard%20Starter |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-10-2012 at 4:22am
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ok soooo which of these would work best for me....remember, the boat has made my pockets quite thin the past few weeks so cheapest soultion would be best. also, what is the rotation of a 1988 sn2001 with ford 351, cw or ccw? http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=70200&pnumber=AR70200&mfg=ARCO%20AUTO%20&%20MARINE&desc=Inboard%20Starter%20Ford%20302%20351 http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Starter-Ford-Engines-5-0l/dp/B004OXXLCI http://www.ebay.com/itm/170888480218?hlp=false http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MES5075M&NOSHOW=YES&rnum=MES337M |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-16-2012 at 11:42pm
ok, so the struggle continues. I took the starter off so I could take a look at it, and have found a stater/alternator specialist in town that im going to try taking it to tomorow before buying a new one. when I took it off I found there were about 3 teeth missing off of the large gear inside the bell housing where it sits (pics attached) could this have something to do with it not starting and just making i whining noise? if so or if not, how big of a deal is this? I also noticed on the front of the engine some numbers with the letters BTC and ATC at each end and some markings on them but none of the two markings are lined up with the pin that looks like they should be lined up to, what is this and does it look wrong in the picture below, could this be a possible reason but my engine not reaching full potential under load. lastly, the last time i took the boat out before the starter went, i took about the secondary to check and see what it looked like (pic also attached) is this what the inside of this piece should look like? 
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Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-16-2012 at 11:45pm
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Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 1:00am
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The BTC / ATC (Before / After top dead center) is for setting the engines timing. You need a timing light hooked up to #1 spark plug wire to check it. The pointer is where you check the degrees of advance, the engine must be running to check it. Have you, or a mechanic checked it? Timing should be one of the first things to check if no power under load. The missing teeth on the ring gear is a problem. It can make a grinding noise when attempting to crank the engine. Typically, engines will stop in the same locations when shut off. If the missing teeth happen to be where the starter drive is- when the engine is shut off, the next time you try to start it,there is nothing for ther starter drive to engage into to spin the engine over. The missing teeth would have nothing to do with lack of performance once the engine is running tho. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 9:24am
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Braedon, That ring gear is in pretty bad shape. There's even evidence that the engine was running with the starter partially engaged. How's the pinion gear on the starter look? I'd have to say it's pretty chewed up as well. Both the ring gear and starter pinion gear need replacing. When that "mechanic" worked on the engine, did he even check the timing? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 2:31pm
| the pinion gear on the starter is completly fine, looks as if it were brand new the whole way around. the starter has definatly had some water in it a few times thats why im assuming it went bad. is that ring gear hard/expensive to replace, also is there a way for me to turn it so the starter can engage? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 3:13pm
No, The ring gear isn't hard to replace. It involves more man hours than skill. You'll need to jack the tail end of the engine up, remove the trans and bell housing and then the flywheel. The gear itself will be available at your auto supply. It's a heat shrink fit onto the flywheel. No, I really would not try to screw around with turning the engine over to a good spot for the starter pinion gear to engage. Think of it this way - what happens when the engine turns over to where the teeth are missing?? I'd like to see a picture of the starter pinion gear. What about that "mechanic" and the engine timing?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 3:47pm
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You can turn the motor with a socket on bolt in the front of crankshaft ------------- Brian |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 4:06pm
Then, as mentioned, what happens when the starter pinion gear get's to the missing teeth on the ring gear??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 4:12pm
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U refer back to what I already said of course : ) ------------- Brian |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 4:15pm
| Ive herd to lay a two by four across the boat is the best way to lift the lower end up to disconnect the tranny and bell housing in order to change the flywheel with the boat still in the water, what do you think about this, does anyone have better methods? |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 4:49pm
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You need to disconnect the prop shaft and slide it back which would normally require loosening the shaft log. This could cause a pretty good leak. I dont think I would chance flooding my boat. Put it on the lift or trailer. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 5:31pm
No, not really!! The best method without having a means of hoisting is to use two small bottle jacks under the exhaust manifolds. The search feature is a wonderful tool!!!   Did you hear about the 2x4 from that "mechanic"?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 5:35pm
Sorry, but I did not see or find another post of yours in this thread?? So, what does happen when the starter pinion get to the the broken teeth? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 5:37pm
------------- Brian |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:10pm
Yes, I do realize you can turn over the engine with a socket on the crank but that doesn't answer the initial question being:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:13pm
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Agreed, boats in the water, he may not want to paddle from dock ------------- Brian |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:17pm
The starter drive turns the teeth on the flywheel, which in turn spins the engine over. No teeth, no engage, no spin, no start. (or get the breaker bar on the crank end bolt and spin it like Hotboat says  )Not trying to be a smat azz, we all have to start somewhere, but do you have any mechanical experience? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:20pm
.... or get a REALLY big bilge pump...  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:31pm
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Hey Braedon, the good news is the fixes required to get you running well are not hard and all the info you need will be available here. I think you've got to get used to following the suggested steps that very experienced people here are suggesting. If people say don't do the fix on the water, lift the engine with jacks from below, replace the ring gear, check the engine timing, you've got to follow through and do those things or you'll just keep chasing one problem and creating another. I'm not being critical, but trust what you read here, and follow the instructions, and you'll get that boat back to running great. Get a helper to make some of the tasks easier, some of this stuff is hard to do alone. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:41pm
In my prior jet boat, I tried to remove the hand-hole cover, clear the debris, and close it in the water. The cover top was maybe 3" below waterline. I figured, "how hard can this be", even though I had read in several forums to never try it. Guess what? I came very close to sinking the boat, fought like hell to get it back on, skinned up my hands and cut an elbow with the effort. I was a complete idiot for trying, was a good lesson on the power of water! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2012 at 7:01pm
Don't forget I have a crank start mag engine out in the shop!! "smart azz" !! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-18-2012 at 3:18am
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Breadon, I did a quick search of your old posts, have you had the boat for a couple of years? Any problems in the past? Or, just a run of crappy luck the last few weeks? One thing about these early boats, most of the engine issues are in the "Mechanics 101" category. Again, no offense intended on the prior mechanical experience. Just trying to get a feel for where your at. now, Petes crank start mag engine... not sure what category we put that into? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 71CCMartinique
Date Posted: September-21-2012 at 2:47pm
| The photos show why your starter sounded bad. The teeth on the starter must have been aligned. with the missing teeth on the flywheel. You will need a new flywheel. The marks you refer to are timing marks. BTC is before top dead center. ADC is after top center. |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-21-2012 at 6:38pm
| Thank you everyone for all of the help. I got the flywheel changed, cleaned up the battery and put new connections on the battery cables which connect to the battery terminals, still using the previous starter. Once I did this, the boat fired right up first turn of the key with no hesitation, i took it out three days in a row and had no problems at all. as for my WOT power problem which i am still having, two of the days I went out recently the lake was glassy so i was able to keep it WOT for as long as i wanted. After having it WOT for about 5-8 minutes it kept feeling like it wanted to continue speeding up past where it stops going faster and than finally it was almost like something unclogged and it was able to continue speeding up like it used to. I than backed off the throttle and went WOT again and it was still hesitating where it was before until again i left it for about 5-8 minutes WOT and than it went again. So as of now the only time it will continue speeding up like it should is when I hold it WOT for 5-8 minutes but than as soon as i back off of it, i have to hold it WOT again for the same amount of time before it speeds up like it should again. I have checked the anti syphon valve at the fuel tank and found nothing. Does anyone have any other ideas of what this could be? I also might ad that the whole time during the 5-8 minutes at WOT the boat sounds and feels like it wants to keep speeding up but wont for quite a few minutes. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: September-21-2012 at 7:03pm
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Glad to hear you got the flywheel changed!!! Can you GPS the boat? You need to have a base line to work from.... ie ... Knowing the actual GPS speed and engine RPM at any given speed. What are you spinning for a wheel? Have you checked engine timing and vacuum? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-21-2012 at 7:11pm
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I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the output of the fuel pump to see if you are starving for fuel. It will take some fittings to do this. You need to narrow this down to fuel vs ignition. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 2:35am
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I don't know what you have for ignition and distributor on it, but what you describe almost sounds like ignition timing advance weights that are sticky and don't want to advance, then after 5-8 minutes the vibration frees them up to advance. Anyone agree? If you have a timing light that can show initial timing and total timing you can see what is going on. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 2:44am
| i was thinking it had to do with the timing too, is the ATC BTC thing as i pictured supposed to turn with the crank shaft pulley? also where do i check the weights or look at them and what should the timing/advanced timing be on this boat, 1988 sn 2001 ford pcm 351 |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 3:23am
| can i spray something like wd40 on my weights and springs to see if it loosens them up and helps at all?? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 8:20am
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Braedon, Yes, the markings on the balancer turn with the engine. The timing light will flash showing the timing of the engine in reference to the pointer. Google engine timing and you should be able to find a video that will show how it's done. You need a timing light. The advance mechanism is under the point set base plate in the distributor. When you R&R it, you will need a feeler gauge to rough set the point gap and then a dwell meter to do the final adjustment of the gap/dwell. I would go heavier than WD40. I happen to like LPS #2 since it's got a waxy lubricate in it that won't evaporate. The WD40 can go in the trash!! Per the manual, the timing is 10 degrees BTC but some like to give it a few degrees more. The point gap is set to .018" and then the final adjustment done with the dwell meter is 24 to 29 degrees. Being honest here, do you have a friend who is more engine inclined that could help? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 10:28am
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Chris, I'm guessing ignition because I can't think of any fuel related issues that get better after 5 minutes, with fuel it's usually the opposite. That leave ignition, and again what can change with ignition after 5 minutes? Bad coils or other components tend to get worse with run time. One other thing I'm just thinking of now is plug wires, but I thought I read that Braedon replaced them, not sure. One good thing about timing is you can fully see what's happening with it with a timing light hooked up and running the boat. It takes 2 people, and a timing light that will read total timing. If you have a mechanic friend I'm sure they will have one, and if timing advances ok then you won't have to chase the advance problems. Even if you pull the distributor apart first you'll need to time it after, so you might as well check it out first and save some time. Pete, do you know what total timing should be? At what rpm it should be all in? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-22-2012 at 11:22am
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Agree, not fuel related, bad guess on my part. Total timing should be 28 degrees at 4000 RPM. At 1200 RPM, it should just be starting to climb above 10 degrees. If you remove the breaker plate (pretty easy) then you can inspect the weights directly, using feel for a snasg in the pivots. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: nautiquelover1988
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 8:47pm
| BRAVO! problem solved! took off the dizzy cap two days ago, removed the rotor, and the metal plate to access the weights and springs, gave them a good spray with some pb blaster...took the boat out, INSTANT fix. as soon as i got out of the channel and opened her up it was just like when i first bought it, accelerated with no hesistation and took off moving just like it used to. Thank you everyone for all your help and support! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 9:00pm
  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |